Caldas da Rainha
Caldas da Rainha is a city in Portugal's Oeste region, about 10 km (6.2 mi) from the Atlantic Ocean and 90 km (56 mi) north of Lisbon. Absent from most travellers' itineraries, this charming city is a great place to experience authentic Portugal without hordes of tourists. Caldas—as locals call it—offers visitors countless experiences to enjoy: a beautiful park, a bustling farmers' market, several museums, shops, restaurants, cafés, and bars. For visitors seeking a beach holiday, Foz do Arelho and Salir do Porto in Caldas municipality are popular destinations.
Caldas da Rainha is an artistic city, and artworks can be found beyond its several museums. Caldas' main park contains many statues and sculptures, as do most of the city's roundabouts and pavements (sidewalks). Caldas is home to a school of fine arts and design and a vocational school for ceramics. The city centre has many excellent examples of Art Nouveau architecture, with beautifully tiled exteriors. You can take some of the art home with you, in the form of world-renowned ceramic creations from the Bordallo Pinheiro factory. In recognition of its crafts and folk art, UNESCO added Caldas to its Creative Cities Network in 2019.
Understand
[edit]
The city of Caldas da Rainha (KAHL-duhzh duh rruh-EE-nyuh, /ˈkaɫ.dɐʒ dɐ ʁɐ.ˈi.ɲɐ/) has around 30,000 residents, who are known as Caldenses. Caldas serves as the seat of a municipality—also named Caldas da Rainha—with a population of 50,917 (2021, provisional), including the city proper and the surrounding rural communities. Caldas serves as seat of the Comunidade Intermunicipal do Oeste (West Intermunicipal Community), made up of twelve municipalities with over 362,000 people. See Oeste for details on the other eleven municipalities.
Caldas is in the historical Estremadura province and in the Leiria district. Caldas is in the Centro (Central) tourism region and was part of the old Costa da Prata (Silver Coast) tourism region, a designation which survives in the name of a four-star hotel and other businesses in the city and region.
History
[edit]
For centuries, the sulphurous curative waters were Caldas da Rainha's main attraction. The city's name can be translated as "Queen's Hot Springs".
Caldas da Rainha was founded by Queen Leonor de Avis (1458–1525, also known as de Lencastre or de Viseu), wife of King João II (1455–1495). One day in 1484, while travelling from Óbidos to Batalha, she found a group of peasants bathing in foul-smelling waters by the roadside. She stopped to inquire about this strange sight, and the bathers told the queen about the waters' curative powers. She decided to try the waters and was pleased to be quickly relieved of an affliction she had been suffering. The queen ordered a thermal hospital built on the site of those waters, so that others may enjoy the relief that she felt. Construction began the following year, 1485, and the first patients were admitted in 1488. Work continued until about 1496–1497. To fund the hospital and the adjoining church, the queen used income from her landholdings and sold her jewels. The thermal hospital still stands to serve those with certain illnesses.
In 1511, King Manuel I, brother of Queen Leonor, declared Caldas da Rainha a town. In 1821, the town became a municipal seat. Caldas was elevated to city status in August 1927.
During the 20th century, Caldas housed refugees and prisoners of several wars, including South Africa's Second Boer War, World War I, in which Portugal joined the Allies, and World War II, when Portugal remained neutral. On 16 March 1974, officers and enlisted soldiers from the army base in Caldas unsuccessfully attempted to stage a coup d'état against the autocratic Estado Novo government more than a month before the successful 25 April Carnation Revolution.
Orientation
[edit]
The municipality of Caldas da Rainha includes not only the city of Caldas da Rainha but also numerous surrounding rural communities. Beyond the two freguesias (civil parishes) that make up the city, the municipality has 14 rural civil parishes, each containing various settlements. In 2013, the 16 freguesias became 12 following a controversial nationwide local government reorganisation.
City
[edit]
The city of Caldas da Rainha is divided into two civil parishes—Nossa Senhora do Pópulo and Santo Onofre—separated from each other by the railway tracks. Although a compact city, Caldas da Rainha has several distinct neighbourhoods in each parish.
- 1 Nossa Senhora do Pópulo. (pop. 16,114 in 2011) Nossa Senhora do Pópulo forms the eastern half of the city, containing most points of interest to travellers. Most sights are located in the neighbourhoods of Centro (centre) and Zona Histórica (historical zone). Other neighbourhoods—mostly residential but with some amenities—include Bairro Azul, Bairro Lisbonense, Avenal, and Encosta do Sol. Merged with Coto and São Gregório in 2013.
- 2 Santo Onofre. (pop. 11,223 in 2011) Santo Onofre comprises the western half of the city of Caldas da Rainha. It is more residential and less touristy than Nossa Senhora do Pópulo, but it does contain amenities such as the municipal library, a sports complex, the Expoeste exhibition centre, several large supermarkets, and various cafés and restaurants. Neighbourhoods include Bairro (Além) da Ponte, Bairro dos Arneiros, Bairro das Morenas, and Cidade Nova. Merged with Serra do Bouro in 2013.
Rural civil parishes
[edit]
If you want to see the Portuguese countryside, visit the rural civil parishes of Caldas da Rainha municipality. You will find friendly faces, family farms, green rolling hills, and lovely centuries-old, white-washed churches and chapels. Each parish celebrates its patron saint with an annual festival, typically centred around the parish's church. During the summer months, when many immigrants return home to visit family, the parishes hold festivals with music, dancing, and food—grilled pork and sardines are popular dishes. Beyond churches, the villages tend to be light on tourist sights, but you can find many cozy lodgings and delicious restaurants with authentic Portuguese cooking.
Western
[edit]- 3 Coto. (pop. 1,344 in 2011) Coto is the smallest in area of the municipality's civil parishes. Sights include the 18th-century Capela de São Jacinto (Chapel of St. Hyacinth) and the 17th-century Igreja Paroquial de Nossa Senhora dos Anjos (Parish Church of Our Lady of the Angels). Merged with Nossa Senhora do Pópulo and São Gregório in 2013.
- 4 Foz do Arelho. (pop. 1,339 in 2011) The town of Foz do Arelho, often shortened to just "Foz", is the most popular destination in Caldas municipality outside the city. It is the place for travellers seeking sun, water, and sand. Foz has two beaches: one on the Atlantic Ocean and one inland on Lagoa de Óbidos (Óbidos Lagoon). Foz offers many lodging options, the highest concentration in the municipality outside the city of Caldas.
- 5 Nadadouro. (pop. 1,904 in 2011) Located on Lagoa de Óbidos (Óbidos Lagoon), Nadadouro offers water activities and camping. Locals make their living from fish, seafood, and agriculture. The parish is reputed for holding the best Carnaval festivities in the municipality. Visitors may wish to see Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Bom Sucesso, the village's 19th-century church.
- 6 Salir do Porto (
to Salir do Porto). (pop. 797 in 2011) Although it borders the Atlantic, Salir do Porto has only a riverside beach and no ocean beach. It's known for having the country's highest sand dune at 50 m (160 ft). Local legend holds that Salir is where caravels were built for explorers of the Age of Discovery during the reigns of Kings Afonso V and João II. Sights include Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceição (Church of Our Lady of the Conception), the 18th-century parish church. Merged with Tornada in 2013.
- 7 Serra do Bouro. (pop. 703 in 2011) Serra do Bouro is the least populous of Caldas' civil parishes. It lies on the Atlantic Ocean, but there are no beaches here. Its cliffs overlook the sea. The 16th-century Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora dos Mártires (Mother Church of Our Lady of the Martyrs) features some Manueline details. Merged with Santo Onofre in 2013.
- 8 Tornada. (pop. 3,561 in 2011) Located just north of the city, Tornada is the most populous civil parish outside the city. Along the N8 road (called Estrada de Tornada by locals), you can find restaurants, big-box stores, automotive services, and other businesses. If you have a car, it may be worth a look, but probably not if you don't have private transportation. Sights include Capela de Chão da Parada / Capela de Nossa Senhora da Consolação, a 17th-century chapel. Merged with Salir do Porto in 2013.
Eastern
[edit]- 9 A dos Francos. (pop. 1,701 in 2011) The town of A dos Francos has existed since the 11th or 12th century. Local legend holds that Portugal's first king gave these lands to the French in appreciation for help in conquering Lisbon. Estação da Mala-Posta do Casal dos Carreiros is a 19th-century rural postal station, where tired horses were exchanged for fresh ones. Ecclesiastical sights include Capela do Espírito Santo (Chapel of the Holy Spirit), which dates from the 12th century; Ermida de Vila Verde de Mato, a 17th-century chapel; and Igreja de São Silvestre, the 18th-century baroque parish church.
- 10 Alvorninha. (pop. 2,987 in 2011) Alvorninha holds a popular Sunday market, Mercado de Santana. This farming community was the site of Portugal's first agricultural school. Sights include Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Visitação, a 16th-century church with Manueline entryway and azulejo tiles; Capela de Almofala / Capela de Santo António, a 16th-century chapel; and Capela de São Francisco, a 17th-century chapel.
- 11 Carvalhal Benfeito. (pop. 1,279 in 2011) Carvalhal Benfeito offers mountains, hills, and valleys with a beautiful panorama of varied landscape.
- 12 Landal. (pop. 1,051 in 2011) Landal is called capital da codorniz (capital of quail). Sights include the 18th-century mother church Igreja do Divino Espírito Santo (Church of the Divine Holy Spirit), the nearby 18th-century limestone cross in a small square, and the 16th-century Capela de Santa Susana. There is a museum dedicated to rural life and another in an old schoolhouse.
- 13 Salir de Matos. (pop. 2,583 in 2011) Sights in Salir de Matos include Igreja de Nossa Senhora das Necessidades (Our Lady of Needs), a 17th-century church in the village of Casal da Areia; the 17th-century Capela de Nossa Senhora da Piedade (Chapel of Our Lady of Mercy); and Igreja de Santo António (Church of Saint Anthony), the 18th-century parish church.
- 14 Santa Catarina. (pop. 3,029 in 2011) The town of Santa Catarina is called the Terra de Cutelarias (Land of Cutlery). If you're in town, the 16th-century parish church, Igreja de Santa Catarina, is worth seeing. Its large campanile towers over the small town. Check out the nearby pillory while you're there.
- 15 São Gregório. (pop. 955 in 2011) Named for Pope Gregory I (c. 540 – 604), commonly known as Saint Gregory the Great, São Gregório remains a land of agriculture, producing mainly fruit and wine. Sights include Capela de Nossa Senhora da Conceição, a 17th-century chapel in the village of Fanadia; and Igreja de São Sebastião e Santa Ana da Fanadia, an 18th-century church. Igreja de São Gregório (Church of St Gregory), the parochial church, is notable among Caldas' rural churches for its 20th-century architecture. Merged with Nossa Senhora do Pópulo and Coto in 2013.
- 16 Vidais. (pop. 1,155 in 2011) The economy of this rural community depends on growing fruit and winemaking. Local artisans make wicker baskets. Sights include Capela de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios, an 18th-century chapel.
Climate
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Caldas da Rainha experiences a "warm-summer Mediterranean" climate (Köppen climate classification Csb, if you're into that sort of thing), sometimes called "cool-summer Mediterranean". This is the same climate as in Porto, San Francisco, and Cape Town, with lower temperatures than those experienced in "hot-summer Mediterranean" cities such as Rome, Los Angeles, or Perth.
Summer temperatures top out at 26 °C (79 °F) on average, and the light rain doesn't exceed 16 mm (0.63 in) monthly. Winter lows average 6 °C (43 °F). Caldas, like most of Portugal, rarely sees any snow.
Visitor information
[edit]- 1 Turismo Caldas da Rainha (Tourist Information Office), Rua do Provedor Frei Jorge de São Paulo 5A (at E end of Praça da República (Praça da Fruta);
Azul Praça da Fruta), ☏ +351 262 240 005, [email protected]. May–Aug: Tu–Th 10:00–19:00, F–M 10:00–13:00 & 15:00–19:00; Sep–Apr: Tu–Th 10:00–18:00, F–M 10:00–13:00 & 15:00–18:00. In addition to tourism information, this space includes a shop with regional products and artisanal goods, a café–restaurant, and loos (restrooms). A gallery holds occasional exhibitions of local arts and crafts.
- 2 Centro Interpretativo da Lagoa de Óbidos e Posto de Turismo (Óbidos Lagoon Interpretive Centre and Tourist Office), Rua Visconde Morais, Foz do Arelho (Avenida do Mar). Beyond the usual tourist office information, you can learn about the ecology, biology, history, and ethnology of the lagoon.
- Município das Caldas da Rainha (municipal website), ☏ +351 262 240 000, [email protected]. The municipal website provides extensive travel information in Portuguese. Sections include Agenda Viva (events schedule), Como chegar (how to arrive), Onde Ficar (where to stay), Onde Comer (where to eat), O Que Fazer (what to do), O Que Visitar (what to visit), Visitas Guiadas (guided tours), Onde Comprar (where to buy) and Transporte Municipal (municipal transport). A drop-down menu at the top of the page allows translation into English, French, or Italian.
- Caldas da Rainha - City Guide. Caldas da Rainha - City Guide is a tour guide on your phone, tablet, or smartwatch. The app includes itineraries, sites of interest, and an events calendar. It is available for both iOS and Android. The app is sponsored by the Câmara Municipal (city council).
Get in
[edit]
By plane
[edit]Lisbon airport
[edit]The nearest airport is Humberto Delgado Airport (LIS IATA) in Lisbon, about 85 km (53 mi) south of Caldas da Rainha. There are several options to reach Caldas from Lisbon Airport:
- Bus: Rodoviária do Oeste. Take the Lisbon Metro Vermelha from Aeroporto station and transfer at Alameda station to Verde or at Saldanha station to Amarela . Either line will get you to Campo Grande station, where you can take Rodoviária do Oeste's Rápida Verde bus service.
- Bus: Rede Expressos. Take the Lisbon Metro Vermelha from Aeroporto station and transfer at S. Sebastião station to Azul to Jardim Zoológico station, near the Sete Rios bus terminal. AeroBus[dead link] (suspended due to pandemic) Line 2 also travels between the airport and Sete Rios. Next, follow the directions for the Rede Expressos coach bus to Caldas da Rainha.
- Rail. The rail station nearest the airport for service to Caldas is Entrecampos. Take the Lisbon Metro Vermelha from Aeroporto station and transfer at Saldanha station to Amarela to Entre Campos station. AeroBus[dead link] (suspended due to pandemic) Line 1 also travels between the airport and Entrecampos. From here take Comboios de Portugal's Linha do Oeste to Caldas da Rainha. (The rail station in written Entrecampos, but the metro station is written Entre Campos.)
- Taxi. From the airport to Caldas da Rainha takes about an hour and will cost around €90-100. Base metered fare will be about €45.31. Heavy traffic may push the fare up to €52.95. A 20% surcharge applies 21:00–06:00, so about €58.98. Luggage adds €1.60 per piece, and there is a booking fee of €0.80, if applicable. Tolls on the A8 motorway total €4.85. For trips outside Lisbon, taximeters are rarely used, so you'll need to negotiate the fare with the driver. If the meter is used, the rates are doubled for trips outside of Lisbon. Keep in mind that the driver needs to get back to Lisbon and cannot pick up passengers until they reach that city. Remember to tip about 10%.
- Drive. Upon exiting the airport, follow the signs to
OESTE. Next, follow the directions in the By car section. Tolls on the A8 motorway total €4.85.
Porto airport
[edit]Although farther away, 246 km (153 mi) to the north, Francisco de Sá Carneiro Airport (OPO IATA) in Porto is a viable alternative to Lisbon. To reach Caldas from Porto:
- Bus. From the airport, take the Porto Metro (Metro do Porto) E to Senhora da Hora or Trindade and transfer to the A , B , C , or F to Campo 24 de Agosto (~27 min, €2). Take a Rede Expressos bus to Caldas. A few trips are direct, but most involve one or two transfers. Travel time is about 3 hr–4 hr 40 min, and fares are €18.50.
- Rail. From the airport, take the Porto Metro E to Senhora da Hora or Trindade and transfer to the A , B , C , or F to Campanhã (~30 min, €2). From Campanhã station, take a Comboios de Portugal (CP) Alfa Pendular (AP) or Intercity (IC) train to Coimbra-B and transfer to an InterRegional (IR) train to Caldas. Travel time is about 4 hr 20 min–5 hr 20 min. Second class fares are €23.15 for AP and €20.10-20.15 for IC, and first class fares are €27.40 and €23.35-24.70, respectively. (Cheaper fares are available for trips involving commuter trains, which take longer, or for tickets bought five or more days in advance.)
- Drive. Take the VRI (Via Regional Interior) south for 2.5 km (1.6 mi) to
for 2.3 km (1.4 mi) to
for 3.6 km (2.2 mi) to
for 179 km (111 mi) to
for 52 km (32 mi). Next, see the By car section to determine the best exit for your specific destination in Caldas.
By bus
[edit]For most intercity connections, including Lisbon, the bus is faster than the train.
- 1 Bus Terminal (Terminal Rodoviário), Rua Coronel Soeiro de Brito 35 (at Rua Heróis da Grande Guerra;
Laranja Verde to Terminal Rodoviário or Azul Laranja Verde to Montepio), ☏ +351 262 831 067. M–F 05:30–21:15, Sa 07:30–12:30 & 15:00–18:30, Su 07:30–12:30 & 15:00–19:00, at other times buses stop outside the terminal. The bus terminal is located in the city centre and serves all intercity bus routes. Expresso and Rápida buses use Terminal A. Other services, including non-rapid Rodoviária do Oeste, RoCaldas, and non-local companies, use Terminal B. Connecting the two terminals is a waiting area with ticket and information booths, departure info. screens, and restrooms. If you have a wait for your bus, you might want to check out the Capristanos café/bar/waiting room for a refreshment or a quick bite. It's been here since 1949, when the bus company itself was called Capristanos.
- Rede Expressos (Rede Nacional de Expressos), ☏ +351 21 75 24 524, [email protected]. This national coach company offers express service from numerous cities, including: Aveiro (2 hr–3 hr 20 min, €15.20), Coimbra (1 hr 50 min–2 hr 25 min, €13.30), Leiria (40 min–1 hr 20 min, €6.70), Lisbon–Oriente (1 hr 10 min, €5) Lisbon–Sete Rios (1 hr 10 min, €8.30), Nazaré (30–40 min, €6), Peniche (30 min, €6), and Porto (3 hr 15 min–4 hr 10 min, €18.10).
- Rodoviária do Oeste (RDO), ☏ +351 262 767 676, [email protected]. This regional coach company provides service from communities in the Oeste and surrounding regions. Routes serve Leiria, Alcobaça, Nazaré, and São Martinho do Porto from the north; Lisbon, Peniche, Cadaval, Bombarral, and Óbidos from the south; and Santarém, Rio Maior, and Benedita (Alcobaça) to the west, among other places. RDO also offers two Rápida (rapid) services to Caldas.
- Rápida Verde (Green Rapid). RDO offers frequent service on the Rápida Verde from Óbidos (15 min), Bombarral (30 min), and Lisbon–Campo Grande (1 hr 5 min [3 rush-hour trips each way] or 1 hr 15 min [all other trips]). Peak-direction rush-hour service runs every 15 min. Off-peak service is every 1–2 hr. In Caldas, the bus stops at both the city-centre bus terminal and at Expoeste. At Lisbon–Campo Grande, Rápida Verde buses board west of the metro station, at the bus terminal on Avenida Padre Cruz, using stop numbers 26 and 27. From Lisbon: adults €8.10, children 4–12 €4.05, children under 4 free, seniors 65+ €6.50, youth/student cards €6.90, monthly travelcard (including Via Azul & Verde, combined w/Metro & Carris) €80, 6 prepaid tickets €42.25, 22 prepaid tickets €126.80.
- Rápida Rosa (Pink Rapid). RDO offers Rápida Rosa service from São Martinho do Porto (20 min), Nazaré (32 min), Leiria (1 hr 10 min), and select stops in between, with two round trips each weekday. From Leiria: adults €7.40, same-day round trip €12.55, children 4–12 €3.70, children <4 free, 6 prepaid tickets €25.35, monthly pass €129.50.
- FlixBus. FlixBus offers coach bus service from Paris, as well as several other cities in France and Spain.
By train
[edit]
- 2 Caldas da Rainha Railway Station (Estação Ferroviária de Caldas da Rainha), Largo da Estação de Caminhos de Ferro (at the W end of Avenida 1º de Maio;
Laranja Verde Estação CP). 06:00–21:00 daily; ticket window: 05:55–11:30, 12:00–16:30, 17:00–19:45 (closes 17:35 Sa Su & holidays). The train station is in the city centre, on the border of the two urban civil parishes. While awaiting your train, enjoy the beautiful tiled walls, showing motifs of local life and history.
- 3 Salir do Porto Railway Halt (Apeadeiro de Salir do Porto), Travessa do Apeadeiro, Salir do Porto (
RoCaldas routes 103, 111, 118). Other than the main Caldas da Rainha station, Salir do Porto has the only train stop in the municipality. Three regional trains in each direction between Leiria and Lisbon stop here daily.
- Comboios de Portugal (
CP, Trains of Portugal), ☏ +351 707 210 220. PDF timetable. CP's Linha do Oeste (Western Line) offers multiple daily Regional and InterRegional trains to Caldas da Rainha from cities along Portugal's west coast, including Lisbon–Santa Apolonia (2 hr 6 min–2 hr 33 min, €9.20-10.15), Lisbon–Entrecampos (1 hr 55 min–2 hr 23 min, €8.95-9.95), Torres Vedras (38–49 min, €4.05-4.45), Leiria (44 min–1 hr 1 min, €5.25-5.80), Figueira da Foz (1 hr 41 min–1 hr 48 min, €9.20), Coimbra (2 hr 07 min–2 hr 42 min, €10.50-12.90), and points in between. Old infrastructure and meandering hills mean that the train is often slower than the bus.
By car
[edit]Motorways
[edit]Caldas da Rainha is served by two autoestradas (motorways, expressways, or freeways).
A8–Autoestrada do Oeste
[edit]
Autoestrada do Oeste, the principal motorway serving Caldas, provides access from Lisbon in the south via Loures, Torres Vedras, Bombarral, and Óbidos. It provides access from Leiria and Marinha Grande to the north. Numerous junctions with other motorways and roads provide connections from the rest of the country. There are four exits serving Caldas:
- Exit 17 Gaeiras / Caldas da Rainha (Sul) – provides an approach via N8 to the southernmost areas of the city.
- Exit 18 Caldas da Rainha / Foz do Arelho – leaves you on N360, which is convenient to much of Caldas and to Foz do Arelho.
- Exit 19 Caldas da Rainha / Zona Industrial – puts you on Avenida Atlântica, which is convenient to northern areas of the city and for Foz do Arelho via the newer Variante Atlântica. It offers a less congested route into the city centre.
- Exit 20 Tornada – leaves you on N8 a few kilometres north of the city.
A15–Autoestrada do Atlântico
[edit]
Autoestrada do Atlântico connects from Santarém and Rio Maior to the east, serving several of Caldas' rural civil parishes. In Santarém, it meets up with
(Autoestrada do Norte), which allows access from many major cities.
- Exit 2 Gaeiras / A-dos-Negros – serves Caldas' rural civil parish of São Gregório (N115).
- Exit 3 for Landal / A dos Francos (N361) – also serves Vidais (N114).
National roads
[edit]Several estradas nacionais (national roads), which are not grade separated, serve the city and municipality. Nowadays, they are prefixed with the letter N, but older signs will show EN.
- N8 (Estrada da Estremadura), once the main highway of the region, runs right through the centre of town. It runs south to Torres Vedras and Loures, a suburb of Lisbon; and north to Alcobaça.
- N114 goes west to Óbidos and Peniche; and east to Rio Maior, Santarém, and Évora.
- N114-1 connects the city centre with N114 to the east.
- N115 runs south to Cadaval and Loures.
- N360 runs from Foz do Arelho in the municipality's extreme west, through the city, and east to Benedita in Alcobaça municipality. The portion between Caldas and Foz is known locally as Estrada da Foz.
- N361 runs from Landal and A dos Francos, in the municipality's southeast corner, west to Cadaval, Bombarral, and Lourinhã; and east to Rio Maior.
Routes from major cities
[edit]The câmara municipal (city hall) recommends the following routes from other major cities in the country.
- Albufeira 315 km (196 mi):
→
→
→
→
– 2 hr 50 min
- Braga 280 km (170 mi):
→
→
– 2 hr 30 min
- Castelo Branco 190 km (120 mi):
→
→
– 1 hr 45 min
- Coimbra 128 km (80 mi):
→
– 1 hr 10 min
- Évora 194 km (121 mi):
→
– 1 hr 50 min
- Lisbon 90 km (56 mi):
– 55 min
- Porto 230 km (140 mi):
→
– 2 hr
- Viseu 205 km (127 mi):
→
→
– 1 hr 50 min
Get around
[edit]Caldas da Rainha has plentiful signposts pointing toward popular sights, civic amenities, large commercial establishments, nearby communities, the A8 motorway, and Lisbon. Street signs are typically located above eye level on corner buildings. These are often made of decorative ceramic tiles. Not all intersections are clearly signed, so a maps app on your smartphone can come in handy. Many places are named for kings or queens and use the honorific royal title Dom or Dona, usually abbreviated D., before the monarch's given name.
Caldas da Rainha has several streets and squares that locals call by older or more descriptive names rather than their current official designations. Visitors are likely to encounter these places (official name → colloquial name):
- Largo Conde de Fontalva → Largo da Rainha
- Largo da Rainha D. Leonor → Largo da Copa
- Praça 5 de Outubro → (Antiga) Praça do Peixe
- Praça da República → Praça da Fruta
- Rua Alexandre Herculano → Rua do Jardim
- Rua Almirante Cândido dos Reis → Rua das Montras
- Rua Dr. José Saudade e Silva → Rua da Electricidade
- Rua Vitorino Fróis → (Rua da) Estrada da Foz
On foot
[edit]
Caldas da Rainha is a compact city. Most locations of interest are within 10–15 min walking distance. Although Caldas is in a hilly region, most of the inclines in the city centre are manageable by people of moderate fitness. Sidewalks (pavements) tend to be narrow, sometimes nonexistent.
The city centre offers several car-free streets, usually with retail shops, including Rua Almirante Cândido dos Reis (Rua das Montras), Rua Alexandre Herculano (Rua do Jardim), Rua da Liberdade, Praça 5 de Outubro, and a block of Rua Miguel Bombarda.
There are no traffic lights or walk/don't walk signals in the city. Crosswalks are marked with zebra stripes, often accompanied by a blue sign with a black-and-white icon depicting a pedestrian using such a crossing. Drivers are pretty good about yielding to pedestrians using the crosswalks.
Although Caldas can present difficulties for people with disabilities, the city has made accessibility improvements and continues to do so. Many crosswalks in the city centre have dropped kerbs (curb cuts) allowing improved access for wheelchairs, prams (strollers), and other mobility devices.
By bus
[edit]- FozBus. Weekends & holidays mid-Jul–mid-Sep. Summer shuttle bus service within the town of Foz do Arelho. Free.
TOMA
[edit]
- 4 TOMA, Customer service office: Praça 25 de Abril 43 (
Azul Laranja Verde Câmara), ☏ +351 262 240 000, [email protected]. M–F 07:30–19:30, Sa 08:00–14:00, Su no service. TOMA is the local minibus service that runs within the city during the day on weekdays and in the morning and early afternoon on Saturdays. TOMA operates about every 30–40 min on three lines. The Linha Azul (blue line) runs hourly outside rush hour. All lines serve the city centre and each line serves other neighbourhoods of Caldas. Several city centre stops are served by all routes: Câmara, Centro de Saúde, Chafariz, Cinco Bicas / CCC, Heróis da Grande Guerra, Hospital, Montepio, and Rainha. Single ride bought on board €1.10, or €0.55 with prepaid "TTT" (Título de Transporte do TOMA); Viagem-a-Viagem (by trip): initial purchase of card & 12 trips €5.50, refill 15 trips €5.50, 35 trips €11, 80 trips €22, 150 trips €33; Dia-a-Dia (by day): initial purchase of card & 6 days €5.50, refill 13 days €11, 27 days €22, 45 days €33, 65 days €44; free for ages ≤14 or disabled.
- System diagram (does not reflect Orange and Blue line extensions in spring 2021)
- Linha Azul (Blue line) – a circuitous two-way route that serves eastern, northern, and western portions of the city, including Expoeste (exhibition centre) and Mercado Semanal (weekly market). The route differs somewhat in each direction.
- Linha Laranja (Orange line) – a one-way figure-8 loop serving western areas of Caldas, including Bairro Azul, Rua Vitorino Fróis (Rua da Estrada da Foz), Biblioteca (library), and Fonte Luminosa (fountain).
- Linha Verde (Green line) – a one-way figure-8 loop goes to southern parts of the city, including Centro d'Artes (arts centre) and Fonte Luminosa (fountain).
RoCaldas
[edit]- RoCaldas (Rede RoCaldas; Rede de Transportes), ☏ +351 707 200 334, [email protected]. RoCaldas, operated by Rodoviária do Oeste, provides bus service to rural communities in Caldas da Rainha municipality. Twenty-two routes connect the city bus terminal to outlying villages. Five routes connect A dos Francos to its nearby communities, and three routes operate from Santa Catarina to its environs. The most popular route for visitors is probably the 125 which connects Caldas bus terminal to the beach at Foz do Arelho. Routes 103, 111, and 118 go to Salir do Porto, the other beach destination in the municipality.
By taxi
[edit]Taxis in Caldas da Rainha are black with a light green roof. Older cabs have a creamy beige colour. There are two taxi stands in the city and two elsewhere in the municipality. If you are not near one, call the number for the nearest one, and the next available taxi will come pick you up.
- 5 Rua Engenheiro Duarte Pacheco Taxi Stand (on the street that connects city hall with the bus terminal), ☏ +351 262 831 098.
- 6 Praça da República (Praça da Fruta) Taxi Stand (at the northeast corner of the city's main square), ☏ +351 262 832 455.
- 7 Foz do Arelho Taxi Stand, Avenida do Mar (adjacent to the beach), ☏ +351 919 304 824.
- 8 Tornada Taxi Stand, Rua dos Choupos (N of the city just off the N8 road), ☏ +351 917 211 560.
By bicycle
[edit]- Rainhas - Bicicletas elétricas partilhadas (Shared electric bicycles), ☏ +351 262 240 002. Daily 07:00–23:00. Free shared electric bicycles are available using the Rainhas app or with a user card obtained at city hall or the tourist office. Bicycles are stationed at the library, D. Carlos II park, the bus station, and the badminton centre. Free.
By car
[edit]Driving in Caldas is not recommended. The city centre has many narrow one-way streets. On-street parking is hard to find near attractions. Given the compact nature of the city and the proximity of the sights, it is easier to park for the duration of your visit and get around on foot or using TOMA.
The city does not have any traffic lights. Intersections are controlled with "STOP" signs or roundabouts (traffic circles). You will find traffic lights in some of the surrounding villages, where they slow down cars travelling through populated areas.
Parking
[edit]The municipality operates three centrally located underground paid parking garages:
- 9 Centro Cultural e de Congressos Car Park (CCC), Rua Dr. Leonel Sotto Mayor. 24 hours daily. At the cultural and conference centre. 350 spaces across three levels. 60 min free, 90 min free Su & holidays, each 15 min €0.20, 8:00–19:00 > 5 hr €4, 19:00–08:00 €2 max.
- 10 Praça 25 de Abril Car Park. 24 hours daily. Located on the square with the Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Pópulo (1950s church), city hall, and the courthouse. It's a block from bus station and near eating and shopping. 60 min free, each 15 min €0.20, 08:00–19:00 > 5 hr €4, 19:00–08:00 €2 max.
- 11 Praça 5 de Outubro Car Park (Antiga Praça do Peixe). 24 hours daily. Near restaurants, bars, and shopping. 60 min free, 90 min free Su & holidays, each 15 min €0.20, 8:00–19:00 > 5 hr €4, 19:00–08:00 €2 max.
Other car parks in the city include:
- 12 Avenida General Pedro Cardoso Car Park (between Rua 31 de Janeiro and Avenida General Pedro Cardoso, between Comunidade Intermunicipal do Oeste and police station). 24 hours daily. Outdoors. Free.
- 13 Bombeiros Voluntários das Caldas da Rainha Car Park (Volunteer Firefighters), Rua Miguel Bombarda 53. Uncovered.
- 14 Montepio Rainha D. Leonor Car Park, Rua Montepio Rainha Dona Leonor 4B (between Rua do Montepio Rainha D. Leonor & Rua Capitão Filipe de Sousa). M–F 08–20:00, Sa 08:30–13:30, Su closed. Outdoors. 15 min or fraction €0.25, 08:00–20:00 (i.e., all day) €6, 20:00–08:00 (overnight) €3, 24 hr €8.50.
- 15 Parada Car Park, Rua Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro 39 (adjacent to Parque Dom Carlos I). 24 hours daily. Outdoors. Free.
- 16 Parque Siprocal, Rua Fonte do Pinheiro 31 (off Avenida 1º de Maio), ☏ +351 962 980 794. Daily 08:00–22:00. Indoor garage.
Car rental
[edit]A vehicle is unnecessary and discouraged for visiting the city, but if you are staying in a rural civil parish or using Caldas as a base for further exploration, you might wish to rent a car.
- 17 Grupo AJúlio (Auto Júlio), Rua Bernardino Simões, São Cristóvão (off N8, near junction with N115;
Verde to ESAD), ☏ +351 262 824 475, [email protected]. M–F 09:00–18:30, Sa 10:00–13:00, closed Su.
- 18 Europcar, Rotunda dos Arneiros 10A (
Laranja Verde to Fonte Luminosa), ☏ +351 262 831 700. M–F 09:00–13:00 & 14:30–18:30, closed Sa Su.
- 19 Guerin, Rua Prof. José Lalanda Ribeiro 10E (
Azul to Cutileira), ☏ +351 932 002 322, [email protected]. M–F 9:00–13:00 & 14:30–18:00, closed Sa Su.
See
[edit]
Caldas da Rainha is packed with sights. There are numerous museums, mostly dedicated to art. Be sure to check out some of Caldas' lovely Art Nouveau buildings throughout the city centre.
If your time in Caldas is limited, the following sights will make the most of your visit:
- Parque Dom Carlos I – The city's delightful main park is a favourite destination for visitors.
- Praça da Fruta – The daily outdoor farmers' market offers a glimpse of daily life in Portugal and of the fresh, delicious produce of the region.
- Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Pópulo – The city's 16th-century mother church, a national monument, is included on most travellers' must-see lists.
- Museu José Malhoa – This art museum in the park is full of captivating pieces.
- Museu da Cerâmica – This museum in an old manor house displays local and global ceramic works.
- Centro de Artes — The Arts Centre has five museums, largely dedicated to sculpture. There's an outdoor sculpture garden, and the centre hosts temporary exhibits.
Museums and art
[edit]


- 1 Casa Museu São Rafael (Museu Galeria São Rafael), Rua Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro 53 (
Verde Centro d'Artes), ☏ +351 262 839 380, [email protected]. M–F 09:00–12:30 by appointment, closed Sa Su & holidays. This museum is dedicated to the ceramic works produced by the Raphael Bordallo Pinheiro factory next door (Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro under current Portuguese spelling rules), including some original pieces by Bordallo Pinheiro from the late 19th century.
- 2 Centro de Artes (Arts Centre), Rua Dr. Ilídio Amado (
Verde Centro d'Artes), ☏ +351 262 840 540, [email protected]. M W–F 09:00–12:30 & 14:00–17:30, Sa Su 09:00–13:00 & 15:00–18:00; closed Tu, 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec. The arts centre is a collection of five museums, largely dedicated to sculpture, but also including paintings, drawings, and prints. The museums are Atelier-Museu António Duarte, Atelier-Museu João Fragoso, Museu Barata Feyo, Museu Leopoldo de Almeida, and Espaço da Concas. Beyond the works in the museums, there are numerous sculptures displayed throughout the grounds. The centre hosts temporary exhibits in galleries in the museums. Guided tours are available by appointment. Free.
- 3 Museu da Cerâmica (Ceramics Museum), Rua Dr. Ilídio Amado 97 (
Verde Centro d'Artes), ☏ +351 262 840 280, [email protected]. May to Sep: Tu–Sa 10:00–12:30 & 14:00–18:00, Su & holidays 10:00–14:00 & 15:00–18:00; Oct–Apr: Tu–Sa 10:00–12:30 & 14:00–17:30, Su & holidays 10:00–14:00 & 15:00–17:30; closed M, 1 Jan, Easter Sunday, 1 May, 15 May, 25 Dec. Situated in a late Romantic manor house, the Ceramics Museum displays a wide collection from Caldas, from around Portugal, and from other places on the globe. The museum holds pottery pieces from the 17th through early 20th centuries, with emphasis on local artist Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro. The collection also includes tiles and tile panels. €3; 50% discount for 65+, student & youth cards, and others; free for age 12 & under, resident citizens Su & holidays until 14:00; complete admission details.
- 4 Museu do Ciclismo (Cycling Museum), Rua de Camões 57 (
Azul Laranja Verde Rainha), ☏ +351 262 240 000, [email protected]. Tu–F 10:00–12:30 & 14:00–17:30, Sa Su 10:00–12:30 & 14:30–17:00, M closed. This small museum is dedicated to the history of cycling in Portugal. Several historical bicycles are on display. Free.
- 5 Museu do Hospital e das Caldas (Museum of the Hospital and of the Hot Springs), Rua Rodrigo Berquó (
Azul Laranja Verde Cinco Bicas Azul Praça da Fruta), ☏ +351 262 830 300, [email protected]. Tu–Sa & holidays 10:00–12:30 & 14:00–17:30, Su 09:00–12:00, closed M. Housed in the Caza Real (royal house), this museum presents the history of the thermal hospital and its hot springs. Until the end of the monarchy, the building served as home to the hospital directors as well as lodging for the royal family when they visited Caldas. In 1992, restoration was undertaken, along with installation of the museum. The museum offers tours of the hospital and its associated heritage. €3, €1.50 for retirees and youth card holders, free to age 14.
- 6 Museu José Malhoa, Parque D. Carlos I (
Azul Laranja Verde Rainha), ☏ +351 262 831 984, [email protected]. May–Sep: Tu–Sa 10:00–12:30 & 14:00–18:00, Su & holidays 10:00–14:00 & 15:00–18:00; Oct–Apr: Tu–Sa 10:00–12:30 & 14:00–17:30, Su & holidays 10:00–14:00 & 15:00–17:30; closed M, 1 Jan, Easter Sunday,1 May, 15 May, 25 Dec. Located in the Parque Dom Carlos I, this small yet intriguing museum displays painting and sculpture from the 19th and 20th centuries, with emphasis on Portuguese naturalism and the works of José Malhoa (1855–1933). The collection includes pieces by Raphael Bordallo Pinheiro, such as the evocative sixty-sculpture set Passion of Christ. You won't find world-famous works here, but many pieces are fascinating and make the museum worth a visit. Don't miss the bas-relief figures on the façade of the building, which was Portugal's first purpose-built museum. The building is classified as Imóvel de Interesse Público (Property of Public Interest). A handheld English audioguide is available. General admission €3; 50% discount for 65+, student & youth cards, and others; Su & holidays until 14:00: free for age 12 & under and resident citizens. See complete admission details.
- 7 Queen Leonor Statue (Estátua de Rainha Dona Leonor), Largo Conde de Fontalva (Largo da Rainha) (
Azul Laranja Verde Rainha). 24 hours daily. The Queen stands regally in a roundabout, facing the park and welcoming visitors to the city centre. The statue was created by sculptor Francisco Franco (no, not the Spanish dictator) and was inaugurated 15 September 1935. Free.
- 8 Raphael Bordallo Pinheiro and Zé Povinho Statues, Rua Almirante Cândido dos Reis (Rua das Montras) (near Rua Heróis da Grande Guerra;
Azul Laranja Verde to Heróis da Grande Guerra). 24 hours daily. Take a selfie with illustrator, caricaturist, sculptor, and ceramicist Raphael Bordallo Pinheiro and his homage to the Portuguese everyman, Zé Povinho. Raphael sits on a wooden bench with enough room for you and a friend, and Zé stands behind him. Free.
- Rota Bordalliana (Bordallo Pinheiro Route), throughout the city centre. 24 hours daily. This collection of 20 ceramic art works inspired by Raphael Bordallo Pinheiro are spread throughout the city centre. The human figures are about life size, while the animals and plants are mostly larger than life. See a list of pieces and their locations here or here. Free.
- 9 SILOS Contentor Criativo (SILOS Creative Container), Rua Filinto Elísio s/n, Moagem CERES, Edifício Fábrica I (
Azul Laranja Verde Rainha), ☏ +351 912 288 809, [email protected]. M–Sa 10:00–20:00, closed Su. Opened in 2010 in disused grain silos near the train tracks, SILOS provides ateliers, working space for artists, most of whom are students at Caldas' art and design school (ESAD). You can visit the artists' creations at the on-site Gallery Farinha, which can be booked on their Facebook page.
Churches and buildings
[edit]


- 10 Antiga Câmara Municipal (Old City Hall), Rua Almirante Cândido dos Reis 1 (
Azul to Praça da Fruta or Azul Laranja Verde to Heróis da Grande Guerra). The lovely pink old city hall stands on Praça da República (Praça da Fruta). The seat of the municipal government was moved to a larger brutalist building, and the old edifice now houses civil parish offices of the União das Freguesias das Caldas da Rainha - Nossa Senhora do Pópulo, Coto e São Gregório. The building was dedicated in 1750, as indicated by the "MDCCL" etched on its façade. An inscription above the clock shows "1841", when the clock and bell were added. The building is classified as Imóvel de Interesse Público (Property of Public Interest).
- Art Nouveau Architecture (Arquitetura Arte Nova), throughout the city centre. 24 hours daily. Caldas da Rainha is home to many fine examples of Art Nouveau buildings. This style was popular worldwide between 1890 and 1910, but it flourished in Portugal from 1905 to 1920. You can identify Art Nouveau by its beautiful tile façades, ornate wrought iron embellishments, and decorative stonework. Walk around the city centre to find many more gems. Free.
- 11 Ermida do Espírito Santo (Hermitage/Chapel of the Holy Spirit), Largo João de Deus (uphill SE of the thermal hospital
Azul Praça da Fruta). Mannerist and baroque chapel built in the 16th century and rebuilt in the 18th century. The building is classified as Imóvel de Interesse Público (Property of Public Interest).
- 12 Ermida de São Sebastião (Hermitage/Chapel of Saint Sebastian), NE corner of Praça da República (Praça da Fruta) (
Azul Praça da Fruta). 16th-century mannerist and baroque chapel. Remodeled in the 18th century, the chapel is covered in tiles depicting the life of Saint Sebastian. The building is classified as Imóvel de Interesse Público (Property of Public Interest). Tours can be arranged through the Museu do Hospital e das Caldas.
- 13 Hospital Termal Rainha D. Leonor (Queen Leonor Thermal Hospital), Largo Rainha Dona Leonor (
Azul to Praça da Fruta or Azul Laranja Verde to Cinco Bicas / CCC), ☏ +351 262 830 300, [email protected]. The raison d'être of Caldas da Rainha, the thermal hospital was founded by Queen Leonor after experiencing the healing properties of the sulfurous hot springs on this site. The older building (labeled Hospital Termal above the glass entrance doors) was begun in 1485, and the newer one (labeled Balneário Novo) was completed in 1750. The hospital continues to operate to this day, subject to closures when impurities are found in the water. The waters are rich in minerals, particularly sulphur, and are prescribed to treat joint and respiratory ailments. Tours can be arranged through the Museu do Hospital e das Caldas.
- 14 Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceição (Church of Our Lady of the Conception), Praça 25 de Abril (
Azul Laranja Verde Câmara), ☏ +351 262 832 029, [email protected]. Visit: M–Sa 09:00–20:00, Su 08:30–13:00 & 17:00–19:00; Mass: M–Sa 19:00; Su 09:00, 10:15, 12:00, 18:00; 1st Sa of month 09:00. Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceição is a modern church built in the early 1950s to accommodate the city's growing population. Construction began on 20 August 1950, with a blessing from the cardinal–patriarch of Lisbon and the presence of the minister of public works. The cardinal–patriarch inaugurated the church 14 months later on 21 October 1951. The façade and décor aren't as bleak as other mid-century houses of worship, but compared with older churches in Portugal, Nossa Senhora da Conceição seems plainer and less elaborate. Its interior is mostly bright white sparingly adorned with some blue azulejo tiles, statues, and stations of the cross. This does give it an airy, open, and sunny look. Free.
- 15 Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Pópulo (Church of Our Lady of the Pópulo), Largo Conselheiro José Filipe (