Klaipėda

Klaipėda is a city in Lithuania Minor, the narrow northwest coastal region of Lithuania. It's the country's third-largest city. The city has historic sights but isn't pretty-pretty like Vilnius Old Town, and draws mostly local tourism. The big attraction is the Curonian Spit, a remarkable 99 km peninsula of sand dunes. Smiltynė at its north tip is part of the city and is reached by a five-minute ferry ride from downtown.

Facilities in the northern third of the spit are described on this page, while those in the centre are described on the Nida page. Its south is part of Kaliningrad Oblast, an exclave of Russia.

Klaipėda is at the mouth of the River Danė, which flows into the Curonian Lagoon, the freshwater lake enclosed by the Curonian Spit; the lagoon here discharges into the Baltic. Its harbour is ice-free, a valuable site on this cold sea, so it's been fought over many times. The castle was built by the Teutonic Knights in 1253 and for much of its history the city was part of Prussia. German-speaking people called it "Memel" for the larger river feeding the lagoon further south, nowadays the border with the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad. Timber export have long been the port's main trade, along with other agricultural produce such as wool.

After the First World War Memel and its hinterland were declared a "Free City" similar to Gdańsk / Danzig, but newly-independent Lithuania annexed it in 1923. Nazi Germany grabbed it in 1939: after the Second World War it reverted to the far-from-independent Lithuanian SSR, a communist satellite state of the USSR. That grey empire broke up in 1990 and Klaipėda like other Baltic cities developed modern western industries.

• 55.70837421.1335791 Tourist Information Centre (Klaipėdos turizmo ir kultūros informacijos centras), Turgaus gatvė 7 (200 m northeast of the castle). Mon-Fri 09:00–18:00, Sat 10:00 – 16:00, Sun 09:00 – 16:00.  (updated May 2025)

The best time to visit Klaipėda is around May to September, with warm weather best for vacation activities. Having a maritime climate, Klaipėda's seasons are usually mild, though there may be some atypically hot or cold days every few years. While rain is a common occurence year-round, most of the precipitation and thunderstorms usually cluster around late summer and autumn. Additionally, snow may fall as early as October and as late as May.

• 55.72121.1361 Klaipėda railway station (in the north of town). The original Prussian yellow-brick station was built in 1881. Most station facilities are now in the adjacent red-brick building of 1983, with its distinctive helmeted tower like a lanky sentry. It has left luggage lockers, toilets and a snack bar.  (updated Jul 2023)

Destinations:

• Vilnius – Trains run every couple of hours, take 4½ hours and cost €25 (2023). They go via Kaišiadorys, Jonava, Kėdainiai, Radviliškis, Šiauliai, Telšiai, Plungė and Kretinga.
• Kaunas – There are no direct trains, but you have to change in Vilnius or Šiauliai, for a 5-hour journey.
• Šilutė – 4 local trains per day, taking 1 hour.

• 55.71972221.1380562 Klaipėda Bus Station (Klaipėdos autobusų stotis), Butkų Juzės g. 9 (just outside the railway station). It's fairly clean and modern, with cafes and a waiting area.  (updated Jul 2023)

Buses run from Palanga, Vilnius, Kaunas and Riga airports as above. Vlasava, Kautra and TOKS buses run hourly from Vilnius town via Kryžkalnis to Klaipėda (4 hr), where they take a 20-minute break then continue north to Palanga town, the airport and Šventoji. They also run hourly from Kaunas (3 hr); some start from Druskininkai and Alytus.

From Vilnius and Kaunas, follow A1 northwest. It's a fast dual carriageway.

From Riga, follow A8 / A12 to Šiauliai, then A11 west.

• 55.71194421.2427783 Klaipėda Airfield (KLJ  ^IATA) (7 km east of Klaipėda, near the A1/E85 highway). A privately run airport focusing on sports aviation and charter services.  (updated Jul 2023)

Nearby international airports:

• Palanga Airport (PLQ ^IATA), Palanga – The closest airport, 36 km north. It has limited seasonal destinations, which include London Stansted and Dublin by Ryanair, Oslo by Norwegian, Riga by Air Baltic, and Copenhagen by Scandinavian. Bus 31 runs between the airport, Palanga and the Klaipėda bus and railway station every 30 min.

• Kaunas Airport (KUN ^IATA), Kaunas – Linked by the direct Ollex buses four times a day, taking 2½ hr to Klaipėda via Kryžkalnis highway interchange.

• Vilnius Airport (VNO ^IATA), Vilnius – Far more flights than Kaunas. Ollex buses start from the airport (4 hr, 5 per day, €25) via the outskirts of Kaunas. TOKS buses that run between Vilnius and Klaipėda also run via Vilnius airport.

• Riga Airport (RIX ^IATA), Riga – Linked by direct Ollex buses every couple of hours, taking 4½ hours (€30).

• 55.66121.14554 Port of Klaipėda (Klaipėdos jūrų uostas).  (updated Jul 2023)

Ferries:

• 55.6551921.170655 TT-Line, Minijos gatvė 180, ☏ +370 46 434010. Ferry lines from Trelleborg and Karlshamn, Sweden and Travemünde and Rostock, Germany.  (updated Jul 2023)
• 55.6843921.14456 DFDS, Baltijos prospektas 40, ☏ +370 46 395050. Ferry lines from Karlshamn, Sweden and Kiel, Germany.  (updated Sep 2023)

See below for the ferries across the channel from Smiltynė on Curonian Spit. With the right documentation it's possible to drive up the Curonian Spit from Kaliningrad Oblast in Russia, crossing the border near Nida, and on north up Highway 167 to the ferry terminal. Bicycles are also permitted across that border but not pedestrians, and there is no public transport across.

The city stretches north-south along the coast, so many routes start from the university quarter to the bus and railway station, then south along H. Manto gatvė across the bridge into Old Town, continuing down Tiltų g. towards the Akropolis shopping mall. For example, Bus 8 runs every 5-10 min down this spine along Taikos prospektas. Bus 9 runs every 10 min closer to shore, passing by the Old Ferry Terminal, the castle and south to the New Ferry Terminal and the shipping port. For routes and timetables, see the Klaipėda Transport website.

A single paper ticket costs €0.80 from a kiosk and €1 from the bus driver. Validate your ticket immediately on boarding.

Further out, Bus N1 runs down the spit every two hours, connecting with the ferries at Smiltynė old ferry terminal. It carries bikes and goes to Juodkrantė and Nida, taking 65 min.

Klaipėda scrapped its trams in 1967. There is interest in restoring them, but the cost looks prohibitive.

The easiest way to call a taxi is with the eTAKSI app for smartphones, or call +370 633 44 553.

As of 2023, the fixed starting fee is €1, then €0.80/km, so a ride from the bus and railway station to the Old Town might be €3.40.

Two ferries routes exist between Klaipėda and Smiltynė on Curonian Spit, which foot passengers, as well as vehicles, commute on.

For foot passengers:

• 55.70472221.12257 Klaipėda Old Ferry Terminal (Klaipėdos senoji perkėla / kruizinių laivų terminalas). Daily 07:00-23:00, every 30 min. This is where foot passengers board towards Smiltynė's Old Ferry Terminal. The ferry takes 5 minutes. Adult single fare is €1.50 (2023); under-7s, bicycles and suitcases free.  (updated Jul 2023)
• 55.70576321.1129498 Smiltynė Old Terminal (Smiltynė Senoji perkėla). Within walking distance of the Sea Museum, and the stop for Bus N1 to Juodkrantė and Nida.  (updated Jul 2023)

For vehicles (mostly, but foot passengers can also commute):

• 55.68858421.1386729 Klaipėda New Ferry Terminal (Klaipėdos naujoji perkėla) (2 km south of the old ferry terminal). Daily 07:00-22:00, every 20 min; 22:00-07:00 hourly. Here is the car ferry to Smiltynė New Terminal. Foot passengers are also carried, same fares as above. Motorbike €6.80, car €20.50.  (updated Jul 2023)
• 55.685721.1306810 Smiltynė New Ferry Terminal (Smiltynė naujoji perkėla).  (updated Jul 2023)

There is an ecological fee of €5 for cars and motorbikes, and €15/20 (off-/high-season) for campers for entering Neringa municipality, which contains most of the Curonian Spit on the Lithuanian side.

Ferries no longer sail direct from Klaipėda to Juodkrantė or Nida, though private businesses or individuals may offer trips for foot passengers.

Bikes are a good way to explore the Curonian Spit.

• 55.70869121.12809611 Du ratai, Naujoji Uosto g. 3 (near the Klaipėda old ferry terminal). Daily 09:00–18:00. Bicycle rental. See also VeloRent.lt  (updated Jul 2023)

• 55.70555621.1288891 Klaipėda Castle, Priešpilio g. 2, ☏ +370 601 17617. Tue-Sat 10:00-18:00. Only a single bastion remains of this moated castle, built in 1253 by the Livonian Order of Teutonic Knights; its wooden predecessor on the opposite river bank has long disappeared. For the next 500 years rival powers queued up to smash it down then build it up again, with the last reconstruction in 1763. Thereafter even the Prussians couldn't think of a military role for it, so it fell derelict and its masonry was stripped. It now houses a museum exhibiting the troubled story of the castle and the city. Adult €4.40, combi €6.  (updated Jun 2023)
• 55.70660521.126822 Black Ghost (Juodasis Vaiduoklis). A creepy bronze sculpture by the footbridge spanning the outlet of the castle moat, next to Old Port Hotel. It is a hollow, cowled wraith dragging himself from the water and supposedly terrifying to children, but probably more so to any drunk who's dropped his keys and is scrabbling along the wharf in search.  (updated Jul 2023)
• 55.707821.13163 Theatre Square (Teatro aikštė). The cobbled plaza at the heart of Old Town. This district is on a grid pattern as it had to be rebuilt after an extensive fire in 1854: look for quirky little statues here and there. The larger statue in the square is "Ännchen von Tharau" (Anna Neander 1615–1689), whose marriage was commemorated in a uxorious poem by Simon Dach, later set to music.  (updated Jul 2023)
• 55.7073621.13474 History Museum of Lithuania Minor (Mažosios Lietuvos istorijos muziejus), Didžioji Vandens g. 2, ☏ +370 46 410527. Tue-Sat 10:00-18:00. Lithuania Minor is the strip of territory that became Prussianised as Memel. Limited signage in English. Adult €4.40, combi €6.  (updated Jun 2023)
• 55.706721.1369925 Blacksmith's Museum (Kalvystės muziejus), Šaltkalvių g. 2, ☏ +370 46 410526. Tue-Sat 10:00-18:00. This is the former workshop of Gustav Katzke (1868–1944) and exhibits 19th- and early 20th-century blacksmiths' equipment, and ironwork such as cemetery crosses and ornamental park railings. Adult €4.40, combi €6.  (updated Jun 2023)
• 55.70921.12936 Ship Museum Sūduvis, Danės g. (north riverbank). Wed-Sun 11:00-17:00. Sūduvis was a West German minesweeper, in service from 1958. It was handed over to Lithuania in 1999 and retired in 2021. Adult €5, conc or child €2.50.  (updated Jun 2023)
• 55.71027821.1347227 Meridianas. A three-masted barquentine, a training vessel launched in Finland in 1948 as part of a series of 91 wooden war-reparation schooners and barquentines. It retired in 1968 and was moored here, becoming a symbol of the city. It's now a seafood restaurant and events venue, see Eat below.  (updated Jul 2023)
• 55.71194421.1338898 Museum of Clocks (Laikrodžių muziejus), Liepų g. 12, ☏ +370 46 410413. Tue-Sat 12:00-18:00, Sun 12:00-17:00. Lots and lots of clocks, watches and other timepieces.  (updated Jun 2023)
• 55.714621.14029 Pranas Domšaitis Gallery, Liepų g. 33, ☏ +370 46 410412. Tue-Sat 12:00-18:00, Sun 12:00-17:00. Permanent exhibition of Memel artists, notably Franz Karl Wilhelm Domscheit (1880-1965). He was a farmer until age 27 then talent-spotted and sponsored through art school in Königsberg. His successful career halted in 1937 when the Nazis condemned his "degenerate art", thereafter he used the Lithuanian name Pranas Domšaitis and played safe.  (updated Jun 2023)
• 55.71603621.14310910 Orthodox Church of All Russian Saints (Klaipėdos Visų Rusų Šventųjų parapija), Liepų g. 48A. has a modest exterior but is richly decorated within.  (updated Jul 2023)

This untied bootlace of the Baltic stretches for 99 km from Zelenogradsk in Russia. Its north tip is Smiltynė, the beach resort of Klaipėda, reached by a short ferry ride from downtown (see Get Around).

• 55.726421.081311 South Pier. The 19th century breakwater at the very tip of the spit, reached by a paved track.  (updated Jul 2023)
• 55.716821.099912 Lithuanian Sea Museum (Lietuvos jūrų muziejus), Smiltynės g 3, ☏ +370 659 61497. Tue-Sun 10:30-18:00. Displays of marine life plus maritime history. You pay as much again for the dolphin shows in the Dolphinarium. Adult €13, conc or child €6.50.  (updated Jun 2023)
• 55.714121.104113 Ethnographic Museum (Etnografinė pajūrio žvejo sodyba), Smiltynės g, ☏ +370 46 490740. Wed-Sun 10:30-17:00. This annex of the Sea Museum is a Skansen-type outdoor museum of fishermen's cottages and equipment. Free.  (updated Jun 2023)
• Smiltynė Kurhaus (500 m south of the old ferry terminal). An elegant Jugendstil mansion. In 2023, it was closed for conversion into apartments. (updated Jul 2023)
• 55.657121.124314 Alksnynė Bunkers. The most substantial of the World War II fortifications dotted along the spit. This group of overgrown ruins was Schweinsrücken artillery battery.  (updated Jul 2023)

• 55.5353321.1163215 Hill of Witches (across the Curonian Spit, take the main bus; there is a dedicated stop for it). 24/7. It contains more than 80 wooden statues of Lithuanian folklore characters. Free entry.  (updated Oct 2025)
• See Nida for the middle section of the spit.
• See Kaliningrad Oblast for the southern section in Russia.

• Beaches – The west coast of the Curonian Spit is sandy throughout its length, backed by forest and sandhills. Smiltynė, the north tip just across the channel from downtown, is obviously the busiest. Giruliai and Melnragė beaches are north of town, and are accessible by bus routes 4, 6, and 24.
• 55.7080521.13091 Dramatic Theatre of Klaipėda (Klaipėdos dramos teatras) (on Theatre Square). It often has international productions in their original language.  (updated Jul 2023)
• 55.70741521.1534742 Malūno Park (500 m east of Old Town). The main green space within the city.  (updated Jul 2023)
• 55.726321.10953 Central stadium of Klaipėda (Football), Sportininkų g 46 (north end of the city). FK Neptūnas play soccer in 1 Lyga, the second tier. This is their home ground, capacity 1000; the playing season is Mar-Nov. Other city clubs have folded — best known were Atlantas, busted in 2020 for match-fixing.  (updated Jul 2023)
• FK Banga play in A Lyga the top tier. They're based 15 km east in Gargždai.

• Music Spring Festival – Usually held in April every year, it's the oldest continuing classical music festival in the country. Both classical compositions and modern works are performed by local and foreign orchestras, conductors and soloists.
• Sea Festival – Lithuania's largest annual summer festival, traditionally held around late July and lasting about 3 to 4 days. Although many activities start before the grand opening, it officially starts with the mayor's ceremonial speech. The various activities include free street concerts, open-air film screenings, a large market held in the Old Town, parades, and firework shows.
• Klaipėda Castle Jazz Festival – Often held around late June to early July, worldwide jazz performers come to celebrate the beloved music genre. Most of the festival's concerts are organized in Teatro aikštė, but the full program includes various jazz-related events all around the city.
• Klaipėda Light Festival – Unlike the rest of the festivals named above, the Klaipėda Light Festival is organized in late February. Light installations, laser shows, art projects, and audiovisual shows arriving from all around the world are displayed in the Old Town, usually happening over the course of a few days.

Amber is a traditional Baltic giftware, the semi-precious fossil of tree resin.

• Kiras, Tiltų g. 16 (Old Town). Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-13:00. A small shopping centre with cafés, restaurants, a hair salon and casinos. (updated Jul 2023)
• 55.6930221.156361 Akropolis, Taikos prospektas 61 (2 km south of Old Town). Daily 08:00-22:00. The city's main mall. It has a movie theater, skating rink, shops, a supermarket, gym, restaurants, fast food and a post office.  (updated Jul 2023)

• Cheap lunch: restaurants and bars usually serve an inexpensive two-course menu-of-the-day from 11:30 to 14:00.
• Local specialty is cheese fingers - lots of places serve these as a snack or starter.
• Hap's Kebabs, within the bus station, is open daily from 10:00 to 21:45.
• Samurai, Herkus Manto g. 1, ☏ +370 630 73822. Sun-Thu 11:30-21:00, Fri Sat 11:30-22:00. Inexpensive ramen and other Japanese dishes. (updated Jun 2023)
• Cancan Pizza, Taikos pr. 61 (within Akropolis shopping center), ☏ +370 46 469136. Daily 10:00-22:00. Cheap and cheerful pizzeria by the ice rink. (updated Jun 2023)

• Friedricho Pasažas (Friedrich's Passage) is an Old Town alley lined with eating places. Its south end opens onto Tiltų g., its north onto Šaltkalvių g. by the Blacksmith's Museum.
• Storas Katinas (Fat Cat Pub), Žvejų g. 21 (within National Hotel), ☏ +370 46 416173. Mon-Thu 11:00-00:00, Fri Sat 11:00-01:00, Sun 11:00-23:00. Inexpensive Old Town restaurant, the seafood is best. (updated Jun 2023)
• Senamiestis, Kepėjų g. 13, ☏ +370 644 14461. Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00, Sat 11:00-00:00, Sun 11:00-23:00. Trad Old Town restaurant, as the name indicates. (updated Jun 2023)
• Stora Antis, Tiltų g. 6, ☏ +370 686 25020. Tue Fri Sat 17:00-23:00. Charming basement restaurant in an old town block of 1856, good Baltic cuisine. (updated Jun 2023)
• Senoji Hansa, Teatro g. 3, ☏ +370 618 10098. Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00, Fri Sat 11:00-01:00, Sun 11:00-23:00,. Traditional restaurant on Theatre Square, indifferent quality. (updated Jun 2023)
• Etno Dvaras (formerly DOMA), Sukilėlių g. 8 (south side of Theatre Square), ☏ +370 640 37654. Daily 11:00-21:30. Chain restaurant, great place to enjoy traditional Lithuanian cuisine. (updated Jun 2023)
• Meridianas, Kurpių g. (south riverbank), ☏ +370 601 31866. Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00, Fri Sat 12:00-00:00, Sun 12:00-00:00. Upscale seafood restaurant aboard the sailing ship (see above). (updated Jun 2023)

• Brewery: Švyturys ("lighthouse") is at Kūlių Vartų g. 7 in Old Town and offers tours. Their gastropub is open M-Th 16:00-00:00, F 16:00-02:00, Sa 13:00-02:00, Su 13:00-23:00.
• Irish Nesė Pub (formerly Relax), Turgaus g. 1, ☏ +370 651 77711. Wed-Thu-Sun 17:00-01:00, Fri Sat 17:00-03:00. Decent place for a drink, but give the food a miss. (updated Jun 2023)
• 55.70834921.1343361 Leika, Tomo g. 7, ☏ +370 601 89179. Mon-Thu 17:00-01:00, Fri-Sun 17:00-05:00. Relaxing Old Town evening spot.  (updated Jun 2023)
• 55.70759621.1256582 Herkus Kantas, Naujoji Uosto g. 3, ☏ +370 685 87338. Thu 17:00-00:00, Fri Sat 17:00-01:00. Lively small bar on the north riverbank.  (updated Jun 2023)
• 55.7085421.131953 Kurpiai, Kurpių g. 1a, ☏ +370 610 36136. Sun-Thu 12:00-00:00, Fri Sat 12:00-01:00. Bar and jazz club, limited food.  (updated Jun 2023)
• 55.7094121.1324484 Faksas, Žvejų g. 2, ☏ +370 698 03116. Sun-Thu 18:00-01:00, Fri Sat 18:00-04:00. Bar with loud rock music, some food.  (updated Jun 2023)
• 55.71203421.1418345 Hofas, Danės g. 8, hofaskiemas@gmail.com. Mon-Fri 16:00-00:00, Sat Sun 14:00-00:00. A lively bar right next to the Danė river, where various concerts and stand-up events happen.  (updated Sep 2026)

• Klaipėda Hostel, Butkų Juzės g. 7 (south flank of bus station), ☏ +370 65 594407. Cozy convenient hostel. Dorm €20. (updated Jun 2023)
• 55.718521.13011 Kubu, Vilties g. 2 (on Lietuvininkų Square), ☏ +370 65 052311. Pleasant budget guesthouse. They also have apartment lofts but no longer operate as a hostel. B&B double €40.  (updated Jun 2023)
• 55.709321.14372 Aribe, Bangų g. 17a, ☏ +370 46 490940. Very basic but central place. B&B double €50.  (updated Jun 2023)
• 55.720721.12863 Promenada, Šaulių g. 41, ☏ +370 46 403020. Simple friendly place near bus and railway stations. B&B double €50.  (updated Jun 2023)
• 55.708621.13274 Preliudija, Kepėjų g. 7, ☏ +370 46 310077. Clean friendly small hotel in centre. B&B double €50.  (updated Jun 2023)
• 55.76621.09185 Pajūrio kempingas, Šlaito g. 3 (Giruliai beach 7 km from city centre), ☏ +370 66 659871. Campsite open year round for tents and tourers, plus cabins. Some noise at night from trains. Tent €7.  (updated Jun 2023)

• 55.716521.13046 Mercure, Šaulių g. 28 (500 m south of the railway station), ☏ +370 46 490800. Comfy well-run Accor chain hotel. B&B double €80.  (updated Jun 2023)
• 55.711121.13037 Amberton Hotel (formerly Klaipėda Hotel), Naujojo Sodo g. 1A, ☏ +370 46 404372. "K-Tower" high-rise, you may wait a long time for the elevator. Comfy enough but the heating only works if the key card is in. There's a gym with swimming pool, casino, two restaurants and two bars at ground level, plus sky-bars on the 12th and 20th floors. B&B double €90.  (updated Jun 2023)
• 55.715221.14318 Ararat, Liepų g. 48A, ☏ +370 46 400880. Very comfy place with apartment rooms. B&B double €90.  (updated Jun 2023)
• 55.706621.13589 Euterpe, Daržų g. 9 (corner of Aukštoji g), ☏ +370 46 474703. Friendly central place, parking available. It's named for the Grecian muse of music – a Renaissance-era tile dedicated to Euterpe was unearthed in the courtyard. B&B double €100.  (updated Jun 2023)
• 55.708621.131410 National Hotel, Žvejų g. 21 (corner of Teatro g), ☏ +370 46 211111. Decent enough central place, they need better curtains against the early summer sunrise. B&B double €100.  (updated Jun 2023)
• 55.707821.142311 Memel Hotel, Bangų g. 4, ☏ +370 46 474900. Pleasant 50-room hotel in a 19th century building. Central but peaceful and clean, with secure car parking. B&B double €85.  (updated Jun 2023)
• 55.716521.128212 Navalis, Herkus Manto g. 23, ☏ +370 46 404200. Tatty hotel, service hit-and-miss, limited parking. B&B double €80.  (updated Jun 2023)
• 55.706721.126513 Old Mill Hotel, Žvejų g. 22, ☏ +370 46 219215. In two renovated fishermen's houses, separated by castle dock outlet. Pleasant place but food indifferent and no on-site parking. B&B double €90.  (updated Jun 2023)
• 55.6891521.1412614 Aurora Hotel, Nemuno g. 51 (next to the DFDS ferry terminal), ☏ +370 46 297000, klaipeda@hotelaurora.lt. EUR 60 and up.  (updated Sep 2023)
• 55.7044421.1376715 Art Hotel Bohema Klaipėda, Galinio Pylimo g. 16 (in the old town, next to the Old Market), ☏ +370 464 11 884, lugne@tubinas.lt. Check-in: 16:00, check-out: 12:00. Accommodation for one, two or family. Single from €68.  (updated Jun 2025)

Klaipėda is a safe place but like anywhere you have to use common sense. Try to walk with a confident air and not look lost.

As of August 2023, Klaipėda and its approach highways have 4G from all three national carriers, with 5G in city centre.

• Nida on the Curonian Spit is reached by ferry to Smiltynė then by road. Between Smiltynė and Nida is Juodkrantė, which can make for a nice day trip. To go further south down the spit you need the relevant documentation to enter the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad Oblast.
• Palanga is a lively beach resort north towards the border with Latvia.
• Vilnius is Lithuanian's charming capital, with a well-preserved baroque centre.