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Esplanade (Bengali: ধর্মতলা Dharmatalā, Hindi: धर्मतल्ला Dharmtallā), the modern heart of Kolkata is the city's central business district (CBD) as well as a major transport and shopping hub.
Understand
[edit | edit source]The area is known as Esplanade in English, and Dharmatala (Bengali: ধর্মতলা Dharmatalā, Hindi: धर्मतल्ला Dharmtallā) in Bengali and Hindi.
The name "Esplanade" refers to the large, open, level area outside a fortress to provide clear fields of fire for the fortress's guns, and Fort William (present-day Vijay Durg) was developed with a surrounding open area, also called the Maidan (ময়দান Maẏdān). The present district is developed around that green space.
The name "Dharmatala" literally means "Holy Street", and is commonly believed to be named after Tipu Sultan Mosque. According to historian Binoy Ghosh, the name Dharmatala is probably due to the preeminence of folk deity Dharmathakur in olden days.
The area is also home to Kolkata's original Chinatown in the Tiretta Bazaar area. While many of the ethnic Chinese have moved out to the suburb of Tangra, a handful of Chinese restaurants and food stalls remain in Tiretta Bazaar.
History
[edit | edit source]In the mid-18th century, when the British began expanding beyond B. B. D. Bagh, Esplanade was among their earliest developments. They constructed large bungalows and houses along the northern stretch of Chowringhee Road. Only a few of these structures remain today, including The Oberoi Grand, Janbazar Building, Chowringhee Mansions, Asiatic Society, and the Indian Museum.
Park Street
[edit | edit source]Park Street (পার্ক স্ট্রিট Pārk Sṭriṭ), officially Mother Teresa Sarani (মাদার টেরিজা সরণি Mādār Ṭerijā Saraṇi), is one of the busiest streets in Kolkata. It runs east-west from Park Circus Crossing to Chowringhee Road. The street is almost always busy, even in midnight, reminding that the city never sleeps.
Park Street is also Kolkata's foremost dining area with many restaurants and pubs, and it has been popular for nightlife since the British times. Even though there are pubs and bars everywhere in Kolkata, Park Street has retained its British colonial spirit. It also showcases fashionable clothes, as well as books from all over the world.
Park Street is particularly popular when it comes to Christmas and New Year in Kolkata. During this time this area is so well decorated with colours as if it is still part of the British Empire. The area records spikes in footfall during Durga Puja and Diwali as well.
Get in
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Map of Esplanade
By bus
[edit | edit source]- 1 Esplanade Bus Terminus. The city's premier bus terminal has buses passing through from all areas of the city, not just long-distance buses. It is the most obvious way to get here, though there are bus stops to alight at specific destinations within the district.
- 2 SBSTC Bus Stand. A newer bus stand opposite the terminal for SBSTC buses.
By metro
[edit | edit source]- 3 Esplanade 1 2 . The main hub of the Kolkata Metro, being served by both Blue and Green lines, with two separate underground terminals for each line, connected by a subway (underpass).
By tram
[edit | edit source]- 4 Esplanade
. There are only two active routes from Esplanade, one from Shyambazar, and another from Gariahat. Despite being eco-friendly, this is not the most practical way to get here, especially in peak hours when the roads are congested.
See
[edit | edit source]- 1 Bow Barracks (বো ব্যারাক Bo Byārāk). A small hub of mainly Anglo-Indian population who have lived here for generations. According to a legend, Bow Barracks was a garrison's mess built for the army during World War I. When the soldiers left India, they handed over the flats to the Anglo-Indians who took them on rent. Bow Barracks is also famous for its Christmas celebration.
- 2 Central Municipal Office Building, 1, Charlie Chaplin Sq. Although not as iconic as the one in Mumbai or Chennai, the rectangular building built in colonial architecture houses the office of the Kolkata Municipal Corporation (KMC), formerly the Calcutta Municipal Corporation (CMC), the civic body governing the city of Kolkata.
- 3 Lower Circular Road Cemetery.
- 4 Roxy Cinema, Chowringhee Pl. A single-screen cinema known for its Art Deco architecture. The semicircular building with three viewing levels was originally an opera house, which was converted to a cinema in the 1940s. It has been a cultural hub of Central Kolkata for decades.
Chowringhee Road
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- 5 Metropolitan Building (Whiteways and Laidlaw Building), 140, Chowringhee Rd (metro: Esplanade 1 ). It was a famous department store in Kolkata during the British period. This neo-baroque emporium—with domes, a clock tower and arched recessed windows—exemplifies fashionable shopping during the British Raj.
- 6 Indian Museum, 27, Chowringhee Rd (metro: Park Street 1 ), ☏ +91 33 2249 5699, fax: +91 33 249 5696, [email protected]. 10AM-5PM (closed M). Established in 1814, this was the first such museum in Asia. Among its famous collection is the urn that held the ashes of the Buddha (though this is generally not on display), a Pillar of Ashoka (the three-lion symbol which became the official emblem of the Republic of India) and numerous rare antiques. A varied collection of exhibits include unique fossils, Buddhist Gandhara art and an Egyptian mummy. The Indian Museum has a library of excellent historical value, with a special focus on the British Raj and Kolkata. ₹50 (for Indian citizens) ₹150 (for foreign citizens).
- 7 The 42 (দ্য ফোরটি-টু Dya Phōrṭi-ṭu), 42B, Chowringhee Rd. A 260 m (850 ft) high box-shaped apartment building, and the tallest building of the city.
Esplanade Row
[edit | edit source]- 8 Smaranika Tram Museum (স্মরণিকা Smaraṇikā), 6, Esplanade Row East (metro: Esplanade 1 2 ; tram: Esplanade ). 3PM–8PM (closed Th). A museum housed inside a decommissioned tram, showcasing the 150-year-old heritage of the tram system in Kolkata. There's a cafeteria in the museum which serves basic tea and coffee. The cafeteria is considered a great place for adda. ₹5.
- 9 Esplanade Mansions, 1, Esplanade Row East. One of the buildings previously owned by Jewish businessman David Elias Ezra. The residential building was built in the Art Nouveau architecture style. As of 2022, it is owned by the Life Insurance Corporation (LIC) and houses commercial, railways and other government offices.
Park Street
[edit | edit source]Park Street (পার্ক স্ট্রিট Pārk Sṭriṭ), officially Mother Teresa Sarani (মাদার টেরিজা সরণি Mādār Ṭerijā Saraṇi), is a colonial-era relic and one of the busiest streets in Kolkata. It runs east-west from Park Circus Crossing to Chowringhee Road. The street is almost always busy, even in midnight, reminding that the city never sleeps. Park Street is particularly popular when it comes to Christmas and New Year in Kolkata. During this time this area is so well decorated with colours as if it is still part of the British Empire. The area records spikes in footfall during Durga Puja and Diwali as well.
Park Street is also Kolkata's foremost dining area with many restaurants and pubs, and it has been popular for nightlife since the British times. Even though there are pubs and bars everywhere in Kolkata, Park Street has retained its British colonial spirit. It also showcases fashionable clothes, as well as books from all over the world.
- 10 The Asiatic Society, 1, Park St. 10AM-6PM. The oldest library in Kolkata, with hundreds and thousands of books, journals and microfiche in various languages, along with a collection of different images. The main reading room has an internet facility, where you can search for books online. Its collection includes the Edict of Ashoka in granite from 250 BCE, a Brahma statue in black basalt stone from the 12th century, Maitryavyākaraṇa from 940, and Aṣṭasahasrikā Prajñāpāramitā from 1231.
- 11 Assembly of God Church.
- 12 Seventh-day Adventist Church.
- 13 South Park Street cemetery, Park St. The final resting place for early British traders and settlers.
Memorials and museums
[edit | edit source]- 14 Baker Hostel (বেকার হোস্টেল Bekār Hosṭel), 8, Smith Ln. A historical building founded in 1910 by Edward Norman Baker as a government hostel for the male students of Maulana Azad College. Rooms 23 and 24 of the building are converted into a museum in honour of Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur Rahman, the founding father and the first president of Bangladesh. Room no. 24 (Bangabandhu Memorial Room) contains Rahman's used bed, table and chair. There is a small library where his books are arranged.
- 15 Kolkata Police Museum, Library & Cafeteria, 112, Muzaffar Ahmed St, ☏ +91 33 2360 7704. 11:00AM-6:30PM (closed M).
- 16 Mother Teresa’s tomb (Mother House), 54A, AJC Bose Rd, ☏ +91 33 2217 5267. The Missionaries of Charity is a new order formed in 1950 by Mother Teresa. Their vow to give wholehearted and free service to the poorest of the poor was put into action with the setting up of several homes. Visit Mother Teresa’s tomb at the Mother House, Nirmal Hriday (home for the dying), Shanti Nagar (for lepers), and Nirmala Shishu Bhavan (the children’s home).
Places of worship
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- 17 Tipu Sultan Mosque (টিপু সুলতান মসজিদ Ṭipu Sultān Masjid), 185, Lenin Sarani. One of the major landmarks of Esplanade, locally known as the Dharmatala Mosque (ধর্মতলা মসজিদ Dharmatalā Masjid). Built in 1842 by Prince Ghulam Mohammed, the youngest son of Tipu Sultan. People from all sections of society and religions are allowed to visit and take pictures of this historical premise.
Churches
[edit | edit source]- 18 Church of the Lord Jesus (প্রভু যীশুর গির্জা Prabhu Yīśur Girjā), Rafi Ahmed Kidwai Rd. Formerly a Church of Scotland Presbyterian, the Catholic church is a unique one in the city, with most of the religious services being done in Bengali.
- 19 Sacred Heart Church Dharmatala (Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus), 3, Lenin Sarani, ☏ +91 33 2228 1046. A Catholic church building, built in 1832-34 as a Portuguese church. It was renovated in 1971, with the upper part of the building occupying the actual church.
- 20 St. James Church (জোড়া গির্জা Joṛā Girjā, literally "twin churches"). One of the most elegant churches in the city. Built in 1862, its twin spires of St. James' Church dominate Kolkata's skyline.
- St. Teresa's Church.
- 21 St. Thomas Church, Middleton Row. A Roman Catholic church.
- 22 Wesleyan Church (Sudder Street Church), ☏ +91 98749 71342. 9AM-10PM.
Do
[edit | edit source]Cinemas
[edit | edit source]- 1 Jyoti Cinema, 32/1, Lenin Sarani. One of the most popular and oldest single-screen movie theatres of Kolkata. Hindi films and English Hollywood films used to be screened regularly. The theatre had a steady audience for its comfortable seating, good screen quality and stereophonic sound.
- 2 Metro Cinema, 8, Chowringhee Rd. A uniplex cinema hall and a heritage building with Art Deco architecture.
Parks
[edit | edit source]- 3 Allen Park, Park St. The namesake of Park Street.
- 4 Curzon Park (Surendranath Park), Rashmoni Ave (metro: Esplanade 1 100 m (330 ft) W).
- 5 Ekushey Udyan. A small park with a sculpture at the middle, dedicated to the Bengali Language Movement in Bangladesh.
- 6 Elliot Park (metro: Maidan 1 ). 1-4PM. A popular park among young people, especially as students from nearby visit the park in between their classes. It has a 1.5 km (0.93 mi) jogging strip for evening walks, as well as morning walks for locals. Free.
- 7 Gol Talab (Gol Talab ). The central lake of Taltala, a locality known for its Urdu-speaking Muslim population.
- 8 Indira Udyan. A small park with a statue of Indira Gandhi at the middle.
Learn
[edit | edit source]- 1 Alliance Française du Bengale, Gate 3, Park Mansions, 57A Park St (upon arriving at Park Mansions, enter the gate facing Park St at Mirza Ghalib St-Park St crossing), ☏ +91 33 4006 4801. 10AM-6PM (closed Su). The French language school in Kolkata, promoting the study of French and encouraging international cultural exchange and relations.
- 2 Max Mueller Bhavan Kolkata (Goethe-Institut), Gate 4, Park Mansions, 57A Park St (upon arriving at Park Mansions, take Mirza Ghalib St and enter the leftmost gate), ☏ +91 33 2264 6602. 9AM-6PM (closed Su). The German language school in Kolkata, promoting the study of German and encouraging international cultural exchange and relations.
Buy
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- 1 Chowringhee (Esplanade), Chowringhee Square, Chandni Chawk, Bow Bazaar (NE of Esplanade metro station). It is the central market place for the people of Kolkata. There shops ranging from computer peripherals to paint brushes and accessories, from cloth merchants to "foreign" (ফরেন pharen) goods. There are cinemas and restaurants.
- 2 Emami Shoppers' City, 3 Lord Sinha Rd (between Maidan metro station and Rabindra Sadan metro station), ☏ +91 33 2282 0675. Coffee shops, bookshop, designer wear, toy shops, boutiques, footwear stores, electronic stores, discotheque, beauty salons, gift shops, game parlours, multiplex
- 3 Entally Market, 58, AJC Bose Rd. One of the old markets in Kolkata. Shops sell ready-made garments, vegetables, groceries, textiles, margarine, fish and fruits. This market was once famously known for its dairy product shops that provided high quality dairy items such as paneer, ghee, yogurt, condensed milk, cheese and butter.
- 4 New Market, Bertram St, Lenin Sarani (E of bus: Lindsay Street). M–F 10:30AM–7:30PM, S 10:30AM–2:30PM. Despite being named as such, New Market is not new at all! In fact, it is one of the oldest surviving markets in the city. Opened in 1874, it was named Sir Stuart Hogg Market after the commissioner, and it is still sometimes known as such. Although the beautiful fountain and benches at the market no longer exist, its popularity has not waned and the beautiful Gothic clock tower recalls the British heritage of the market. New Market is a good place to sample Indian sweet delicacies and generally soak up the atmosphere of Kolkata. There are also a few handicraft stalls inside. The market is in a large red brick building on Lindsay Street (the road parallel Sudder Street to the north). It has got over 2,000 stalls and is a bargain hunter's delight. The shops are arranged merchandise-wise. It is supposed to be the ultimate marketing experience in Kolkata.
- 5 Eagle, 12/2 Lindsay St (in front on New Market), ☏ +91 33 98 023 6663. A good place to pick up Indian art films.
- 6 Grand Hotel Arcade, GF, The Oberoi Grand. A row of shops at the ground floor of the Oberoi Grand hotel, hidden by the grand Ionic columns of the hotel.
- 7 Handicrafts (Between Sudder Street and Surendranath Banerjee Road). It has several shops selling handicrafts. The largest is at the corner of Surendra Nath Banerjee Road. Those who are particular about handicrafts can also try 'Dakhinapan Shopping Complex' (see South Kolkata)
- 8 Maidan Market (Bidhan Market), Dufferin Rd (metro: Esplanade 1 2 ). It has garments, sports goods and other shops.
- 9 Park Street (Mother Teresa Sarani). Famous for its restaurants but also showcases fashionable clothes, books from all over the world. and so on. Park Street has retained the British spirit, and is so well decorated during Christmas, as if it is still part of the British Empire. The overwhelmingly non-Christian crowd gather there to enjoy Christmas. Queues at most restaurants.
- 10 Treasure Island, Madge Lane,Lindsay St,Hartford Lane, Dharmatala, Taltala (Close (south) to New Market). Open from 10:00-20:00. from Tuesday to Saturday and from 13:00 - 20:00 on Mondays. Sunday holiday.
Books
[edit | edit source]- 11 Earthcare Books, 10 Middleton St (metro: Maidan 1 ), ☏ +91 33 2229-6551. A wonderful independent bookstore tucked away in an alley leading from Middleton St. As the name suggests, the bookstore specializes in environmental titles but also has a wide range of local subjects and poetry.
- 12 Free School Street (Mirza Ghalib Street). It is famous for its second hand bookshops and second hand record stalls. Rummaging through the LPs for sale on the street, one may find real gems from the jazz age.
- 13 Oxford Book Store, 15 Park St, ☏ +91 33 2229 5455. A large and well organized bookstore. Good selection of books on India and by Indian writers. Discount books and cafe (Cha Bar, see Drink section) on the second floor.
Clothing
[edit | edit source]- 14 Metro Plaza, 1 Ho Chi Minh Sarani (beside Tata Centre, near to Maidan metro station), ☏ +91 33 30525473, +91 33 30525474, +91 33 22883802. Locally manufactured readymade clothes. Many shops deal only in imported garments, mostly from Bangkok. The latest footwear and lingerie. Good parking facility.
- 15 Pantaloons (Departmental Store), 22 Camac St (Maidan metro station ~700 m West), ☏ +91 33 39849202, +91 33 22815115.
- 16 Shree Ram Arcade, 15A, Jawaharlal Nehru Rd, New Market Area, Dharmatala, Taltala (Near Light House cinema. Close to New Market.). Open from 10:00-20:00 from Tuesday to Saturday and from 13:00 - 20:00. on Mondays. Sunday holiday.. Full of garment shops.
- 17 Vardaan Market, 25-A, Camac St (500 m east of Maidan metro station), ☏ +91 33 22812724, +91 33 22874082. Forerunner of today's large shopping malls, it was the earliest air-conditioned market. Little shops and stalls line the walls of this mall selling shoes, handbags, toys, saris, salwar suits and western wear for ladies, shirts, tee shirts and trousers for men and children's clothes for all ages, chocolates and snacks.
- 18 Westside, Block D22 Camac St, ☏ +91 33 22817312, [email protected]. 11AM to 9PM. The Westside stores have numerous departments to meet the varied shopping needs of customers. These include menswear, women’s wear, kid’s wear, footwear, cosmetics, perfumes and handbags, household accessories, lingerie, and gifts. Fashionable goods priced a little on the higher side.
Eat
[edit | edit source]Budget
[edit | edit source]- 1 Anadi Cabin (অনাদি কেবিন Anādi Kebin), 9A, Chowringhee Rd. Known for Mughlai paratha (মোগলাই পরোটা Moglāi Paroṭā).
- 2 Blue Sky Cafe, 3 Sudder Street (on the corner of Chowringhee Lane). The food is cheap, the place is clean and service is truly fantastic. Great if you are on an extended stay as they offer both Indian and some Western food. You will not find nicer waiters anywhere. Try the fresh squeezed juices.
- 3 Chung-Wah, 13A, Chittaranjan Ave (metro: Chandni Chowk 1 ), ☏ +91 33 22377003. One of the oldest and best places to sample Chinese food. Drinks served.
- Curd Corner, Sudder St (near junction with Chowringhee Ln). This small hole-in-the-wall eatery is quite an institution in the area, and a generation of travellers have gorged themselves on the fresh and thick yoghurt. Check out the filter coffee and 'mock' cappuccino. Service staff don't speak English, which makes it hard when their menu is in English.
- 4 Dacres Lane (James Hickey Sarani). A popular alley for lunch by commuters.
- 5 Drive Inn, 10 Middleton St (same as Earthcare Books), ☏ +91 33 2217-2247. An outdoor restaurant offering a wide range of good vegetarian and non-vegetarian fare (Indian/Chinese). AC area available, staff speaks good English and is friendly. Meals from around ₹70.
- 6 Haldiram Food City, 58 Chowringhee Rd (near metro: Rabindra Sadan 1 ), ☏ +91 33 30520055, +91 33 22821359. North Indian vegetarian street food.
- 7 Jyoti Vihar, Ho Chi Min Sarani. (Near to Metro Plaza), ☏ +91 33 2282 9791. Offers clean and tasty South Indian food. It is completely vegetarian. It is on the same street as the US Consulate.
- 8 K.C. Das Sweets, 11A&B, Chittaranjan Ave. Best known for its rasgullas, which is fondly called "rosogolla" (রসগোল্লা) in Bengali.
- Khalsa, Madge Lane (on left side when entering Madge Lane. from Sudder Street). offers excellent and cheap Punjabi food.
- 9 Mission Cafe, 20 Ganesh Chandra Ave, Bow Bazaar (Near to Chandni Chowk metro station). Vegetarian fast food spot. Dosa, chaats and curry served at high tables. The cafe is known for its chola-bhatura, a chickpea dish served in a phuchka shell. Turnover fast here, not even stools to sit on, but it is nonetheless tasty.
- New Embassy, 53A, Chowringhee Ln, New Market Area? (right on Chowringhee Road between Theatre Road crossing and AJC Bose Road crossing), ☏ +91 33 22827490. Delicious Chinese food.
- 10 Nizam's (নিজামস Nijāms), 23/24, Hogg St (junction of Hogg St and Corporation Pl). Opened in 1932, the restaurant is an unpretentious place that is famous for 'Muslim' food and lays claim to be the place where Kathi Rolls were invented, it is still considered to make the best ones. The roll initially became popular among the B. B. D. Bagh officers during lunch time, then became an iconic food of Kolkata. It also serves a special potato roll named after Indian actor Amitabh Bachchan. It has a separate beef counter that serves beef kebab, bhuna, chaap, biryani and khiri (cow udder).
- 11 Raj's Spanish Cafe, 7 Sudder St (hard to find alleyway entrance close to intersection Mirza Ghalib St), ☏ +91 33 4001 4373. 8AM-10PM. Serves breakfast and espresso based coffees. Mexican, pizza, and other Western staples. mains ₹100.
- 12 Rallis, Esplanade, 10D, J L Nehru Road. Vegetarian restaurant known for various kind of snacks. Chats and South Indian foods are common. Famous for non alcoholic drinks including various kinds of milk shakes.
- 13 Sip & Sandwich, 1 Shakespeare Sarani, Theatre Road AC Market, Elgin (Jawaharlal Nehru Rd corner), ☏ +91 9830605145. Vegetarian fast food
Mid-range
[edit | edit source]- 14 Arsalan Restaurant & Caterer, 119A, Muzaffar Ahmed St, ☏ +91 90070 07935. Closed 1:00AM-10AM. Biryani and Mughlai food. Popular items: firni, mutton kosha, mutton boti kebab, chicken chatpata, mutton biryani, egg chicken roll. ₹200-600.
- 15 Barbeque Nation, 1F, 24, Park St, ☏ +91 80 6902 8723, toll-free: +1 800 108 6060. noon-3:45 PM & 6:30-10:30PM.
- 16 Flurys (ফ্লুরিস Phluris), 18 Park St, ☏ +91 33 2229 7664. Tu-Su 7AM-8PM, M 10AM-6PM. A popular and stylish café serving a good variety of baked goods and various coffees, sandwiches and entrees. A great place for breakfast or lunch. Baked goods ₹80-₹100, drinks ₹80, meals ₹600-₹1000. Baked goods ₹80-₹100, drinks ₹80, meals ₹600-1000.
- 17 Gangaur, 2 Russel St, ☏ +91 33 2265 8437. 11:30AM-11:00PM, M & W noon-11PM. Serves a variety of vegetarian food but is particularly famous for its Rajasthani or Marwari food. ₹400-600.
- 18 Kathleen's, Free School St. Pastry shop and an eclectic mix of cuisines dominated by Indian and Chinese styles.
- 19 Kwality, 17 Park St (next to Oxford Book Shop). Been around for years with sharply dressed waiters serving tasty tandoori and north Indian food to well-off locals. Try their Chhola-bhatura. Mains from ₹100.
- 20 Ilish Truly Bong Restaurant, 83B Park St, ☏ +91 98305 63345. 11AM-11PM. The only Bengali restaurant in the Park Street area, specialised to various hilsa (iliś) dishes. ₹999 onwards.
- 21 Mocambo, 25B Mirza Ghalib St, ☏ +91 33 2265 4300. Same owners as Peter Cat, but here the cuisine is a bit more rounded. Continental, Indian and even some Chinese dishes served in upscale surrounds. mains ₹100-₹300.
- 22 Moulin Rouge (not to be confused with Paris night club), 31, Park St, ☏ +91 33 2229 9397. 11AM-11PM.
- 23 Oasis Restaurant, 33, Park St, ☏ +91 33 2229 9033. Cosy restaurant with variety of Indian and Chinese foods. Has a small bar service counter with three stalls.
- 24 Peter Cat, 18 Park St (Park Street Metro Station), ☏ +91 33 2229 8841. Very popular for its chello kababs. However, their service has not received the best reviews. Serves Indian, tandoori and Continental fare.
- Seacom Heritage Court Café, 1F, YMCA, 25, Chowringhee Rd. A heritage-inspired eatery serving Indian, Chinese, and Italian meals, with the Continental being the best one. It re-imagines traditional recipes with modern techniques, with a blend of heritage interiors and diverse cuisines. The balcony offers a great view of the buzzing city below. ₹1,000.
- 25 Shiraz Golden Restaurant, 135, Park St (at Mullick Bazar crossing), ☏ +91 33 3099 0175, +91 85850 07649. Noon-11:30PM. Biryani and Mughlai food since 1941. Popular items: firni, mutton biryani, brain masala, chicken tikka, chicken reshmi butter masala, mutton haleem. It has four food outlets in Kolkata: Kankurgachi, Salt Lake Sector III, Ajay Nagar, and Nagerbazar. ₹200-600.
- 26 Trincas, 17, Park St, ☏ +91 82402 59201, [email protected]. 11:30AM-11:30PM.
- 27 Waldorf, 13 D, Russel St (Near crossing with Park Street), ☏ +91 33 65354952. Serves delicious Chinese food
Splurge
[edit | edit source]- Aheli, Peerless Inn Hotel, 12 Jawaharlal Nehru Rd, ☏ +91 33 2228-0301. Authentic Bengali food, served in brass utensils in a Bengali marriage environment. Drinks not served. +phone=+91 33 4400-3900
- Ban Thai, Oberoi Grand, 15 Jawaharlal Nehru Rd, ☏ +91 33 2249-2323. Week days - Open only for Dinner from 7PM to 11:30PM Weekends - Open for Lunch from 12:30PM to 3PM and for Dinner from 7PM to 11:30PM. For an authentic taste of Thailand, visit Baan Thai. Widely recognised as the premier Thai restaurant in the country. Drinks served. Around ₹4,000 for two people. Drinks extra.
- Kebab E Que, The Astor, 15 Shakespeare Sarani, ☏ +91 33 2282 9957, +91 33 2282 9958. They serve Indian and continental cuisine, but what has made this outlet famous is the variety of kebabs that go wonderfully well with drinks.
Drink
[edit | edit source]Coffee
[edit | edit source]There are a number of cafe chains (Barista, Cafe Coffee Day etc) on Park Street, near the junction with Free School Road.
- 1 Cha Bar, 2nd floor, Oxford Book Store, Park Street. A modern and chic cafe with a great selection of teas, including herbal, smoothies. Cha Bar also sells coffee, but this is of mediocre quality. A large window offers views of street life below, while the books provide a literary dimension. Cha Bar is an excellent place for a budding writer or a day dreamer.
- The Street, GF, Park Hotel, Park Street. The universal colors of chic decor, black and red, are used extensively to give this cafe a warm but modern feel. Good selection of coffees and healthy snacks opposed to what the name might make you think. This cafe is about as far from representing Kolkata street life as you could possibly get, but it makes a good alternative to the ubiquitous Baristas and Coffee Days.
Alcohol
[edit | edit source]- 2 Calcutta Rangers Club Restro & Banquet, 1F, 13/1 A, Hemanta Basu Sarani, ☏ +91 91477 22533. 1:30PM-11:30PM.
- Big Ben, The Kenilworth, Little Russell St.
- 3 Broadway Hotel, 27A, Ganesh Chandra Ave. Recommended for a glimpse of a bygone era. Also one of the few places which serves beer with a plate of sliced cucumber.
- 4 Fairlawn Beer Garden, 13/A Sudder St (inside Hotel Fairlawn), ☏ +91 33 2252 1510. Only serves beer. Eccentric atmosphere with greenery everywhere. Famous among travellers and volunteers. Great place for meeting people and early evening drinking. Snacks and dinner available.
- Nocturne, Shakespeare Sarani.
- 5 The Myx, 20G, Park St.
- 6 Olive Café & Bar, 6F, 40, Shakespeare Sarani, ☏ +91 88280 99667. Noon-midnight. Mediterranean charm and handmade cocktails.
- 7 Olypub, 23, Park St, ☏ +91 33 64520472. 11AM to 11PM. A fine affordable bar, famous for the beer and the beef steak.
- Shisha Bar Stock Exchange, The Factory Outlet, 22 Camac St.
- Super Pub, Sudder St (opposite of Fire Station). Air-conditioned and clean place. Serves beer and hard liquor and seasonal fruit juice. Snacks and eateries are reasonably priced.
- 8 Titos Bar & Restaurant, Gate no-2, 10A, Hemanta Basu Sarani (opposite Lok Bhavan), ☏ +91 98310 30467. 11AM-midnight.
Sleep
[edit | edit source]| This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room: | |
| Budget | Under ₹2,000 |
| Mid-range | ₹2,000–5,000 |
| Splurge | Over ₹5,000 |
Budget
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Sudder Street is at the centre of Kolkata's backpacker area, and many of the budget hotels geared towards travellers are on and around this street.
- 1 Astoria Hotel, Sudder St, ☏ +91 33 2252 9679, +91 90516 88123, [email protected]. Clean, large, albeit drab, rooms with private bathrooms. It has a variety of options for dining and also has fitness amenities. The hotel staff are usually considered helpful, though the receptionist is sometimes considered rude and unhelpful. ₹2,850-3,200.
- 2 Bhagirathi Guest House, 30B, Mirza Ghalib St, ☏ +91 98369 93678.
- 3 Broadway Hotel, 27A Ganesh Chandra Ave, Chandni Chowk, ☏ +91 33 22363930, +91 33 2236 3931, [email protected]. Check-out: 24 hours from when you check in. Despite lacking AC the very large rooms with high ceilings make for a great space and the price is definitely right. Don't miss the authentic ambience of the restaurant and bar of this 1937-built hotel. Supposedly due to the hotel's popularity rooms are often difficult to get unless you book ahead, however, try hanging around and see if one magically opens up while you're there (especially if you're first offered a more expensive room). Upper triple rooms have balconies. Also one of the few places which serves beer with a plate of sliced cucumber. ₹775 double with private bathroom.
- 4 DK international Hotel, 11/1A Marquis St (near to Colin St corner), ☏ +91 33 2252 2540, +91 33 2252 2666, [email protected]. All rooms AC and breakfast included. Close to the Bangladesh bus stations. There are better deals out there but not quite as new as this place. Double from ₹1,800+tax.
- 5 Esplanade Chambers, 2 Chandni Chowk St, ☏ +91 33 2212 7101, +91 99 0313 2621, [email protected]. Very clean and reasonably quiet rooms, albeit not massive. Has a free and reliable Wi-Fi service. The staff and the manager are considered very helpful and accommodating. Single from ₹1,400, double deluxe ₹2,200, breakfast incl.
- 6 Hotel Galaxy, 3, Stuart Ln (off Sudder St), ☏ +33 2252 4565. Clean, simple, and convenient location with AC rooms. Has kitchen and drinking water supply facilities. The hotel staff are considered helpful. ₹1,000-1,100.
- 7 Hotel Jaapon, 30F Mirza Galib St (at the end of Sudder St), ☏ +91 33 2252 0657, +91 33 2252 0658. Reasonably clean AC and non-AC rooms available with a very small private bathroom and cable TV. Beds are surprisingly comfortable given the thin and well-worn mattresses, but some rooms are chokingly musty - check before checking in. The hotel staff are not considered helpful. Single: ₹650, AC doubles: ₹1,100.
- 8 Hotel Maria, 5/1 Sudder St, ☏ +91 33 2252 0860. dorm ₹80, Very basic, creatively graffiti-ed rooms with and without attached bathroom from ₹300 as of Feb 2015. Grumpy service, cheap laundry, dank bathroom/toilet and no wifi. Very central location, takes no bookings, so arrive early (8:30AM onwards).
- 9 Hotel Modern Lodge, 1, Stuart Ln (off Sudder St), ☏ +91 33 2252 4960. Not very modern, but cheap and fairly clean. ₹150 for a single with a shared cold-water bathroom. ₹100-250.
- Hotel Royal Palace, ☏ +91 33 2252 5280, +91 33 2252 4178. Clean and large A/C & non-A/C rooms with private bath, TV, STD/ISD. ₹350-750.
- 10 Seacom Inn YMCA (Young Men's Christian Association), 25, Chowringhee Rd (near corner with Sudder St), ☏ +91 33 2249 2192, [email protected]. An extremely drab and dark hotel that appears not to have received a lick of paint since its founding in the mid-19th century. However, in some ways, that is the hotel's distinctive charm, and so it may appeal to strict traditionalists. There is a heritage café on the first floor (see #Eat), with the balcony offers a great view of the buzzing city below. Non A/C single ₹600, with A/C ₹850.
- 11 Sunflower Guest House, 7, Royd St (200 m away intersection Park St and Mirza Ghalib St), ☏ +91 33 2229 9401, +91 33 2229 8388, [email protected]. Clean and great location. Those who tote lots of luggage be warned there are stairs to climb to the top floor reception. ₹1,350 double.
Mid-range
[edit | edit source]- 12 1 Chowringhee Hotel, 1/A, Chowringhee Rd, ☏ +91 89614 97767. Check-in: midnight, check-out: noon.
- 13 Bawa Watson Spa'o'tel, 5A Sudder St, ☏ +91 33 2252 1512, [email protected]. An upscale new venue that's breaking the trend from the Sudder St backpacker tide. 29 rooms ₹4100 per double (all tax included, 2015).
- 14 Casa Fortuna Hotel, 234/1A, Acharya Jagadish Chandra Bose Rd, ☏ +91 33 4021 8000, [email protected]. Deluxe single ₹5,000, Deluxe double ₹6,000.
- 15 Hotel Lindsay, 8A/8B Lindsay St, ☏ +91 33 3021 8666, [email protected]. The hotel is well-lit and clean. Its facilities, including a room minibar, hot water, tea and coffee, make it a good value four-star property. ₹4,600 double.
- 16 Housez 43, 43 Mirza Ghalib St, ☏ +91 33 2227 6020, +91 7595067173, [email protected]. All rooms equipped with air-conditioning, TV, and private bath. Rates start at ₹4,950.
- 17 The Senator, 15, Camac St, ☏ +91 33 2289 3000. Check-in: noon, check-out: noon.
- 18 Siamton Inn - A Cygnett Collection, 56, Park St, ☏ +91 85954 50450. Check-in: noon, check-out: 11AM. ₹4,900-5,000.
Splurge
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- 19 The Astor, 15, Shakespeare Sarani, ☏ +91 33 22829957, fax: +91 33 22827430, [email protected]. Double: ₹5,900-10,200.
- 20 Elgin Fairlawn, 13/A Sudder St, ☏ +91 33 2252 1510, +91 33 2252 8767, [email protected]. The building dates to 1783 with many colonial-era relics. Single: ₹5,000-5,600, double: ₹7,550-8,400.
- 21 The Golden Parkk, 13, Ho Chi Minh Sarani, ☏ +91 33 22883939, fax: +91 33 22889600, [email protected]. From ₹8,000.
- 22 Hotel Hindusthan International, A.J.C. Bose Rd (near Minto Park). Good location near Rabindra Sadan metro station. Good food. Five star rates. From ₹5,000.
- 23 Kenilworth Hotel, 1 & 2, Little Russel St, ☏ +91 33 2282 3939, fax: +91 33 2282 5136, +91 33 2282 3940, +91 33 6621 4100, [email protected]. Check-in: 2PM, check-out: noon. ₹6,900-8,000.
- 24 The Oberoi Grand, 15, Chowringhee Rd, ☏ +91 33 2249 2323, toll-free: 1800-11-2030, fax: +91 33 2249 9427, [email protected]. US$375-1,375, ₹10,000.
- 25 The Park Hotel, 17, Park St, ☏ +91 33 2249 3121, fax: +91 33 2249 4000, [email protected]. The unassuming exterior hides an elegant and homely interior with stylish Indian features. Drink at Aqua (First Floor), Roxy (Ground Floor), and Someplace Else (Ground Floor). ₹9,950-12,200.
- 26 Peerless Inn, 12 Chowringhee Rd, ☏ +91 33 4400 3900. From ₹10,000.
- 27 Hotel Walson, 5A Sudder St, ☏ +91 33 2252 1512, +91 99033 29977, [email protected]. Check-in: noon, check-out: noon. An upscale new venue that's breaking the trend from the Sudder St backpacker tide. 29 rooms ₹6,000-6,200.
Stay safe
[edit | edit source]Although most of Esplanade is considered safe, one noted problem here is the drug dealers around Sudder Street. However, as the dealers obviously do not want to draw undue attention to their activity, they are not persistent and are rarely a threat.
Connect
[edit | edit source]- 3 Gopal's Planet, 7 Tottie Lane (Coming from Sudder Street, walk 50m (150ft) into Tottie Ln. On your left-hand side, same building as Raj's Guesthouse, ground floor), ☏ +91 9674273616, [email protected]. 8AM-11PM. Friendly, quiet internet cafe off Sudder Street with relatively modern computers, AC and free chai (with Wi-Fi, Skype, printers, phone calls, etc.). They also rent bicycles and sell train tickets. Their coffee and snacks are good as well.
- Hotline Services, 7 Sudder St, (near the Astoria Hotel, at the back of the parking lot between Roop Shringar clothing shop and Metro Beauty Parlour. Identified with a large illuminated sign in red) has a room jam packed with high speed computers, and charges ₹15/hr. They also sell CDs of various styles of Indian music for around ₹150/each, and have a selection of hand-woven material and cotton clothing from all over India. Hotline also provides a coffee and snack service.
There are other smaller internet cafes on Sudder Street such as Net Freaks, but they are often very busy.
Cope
[edit | edit source]Police stations
[edit | edit source]- 4 Entally Police Station, 12, Convent Rd, ☏ +91 33 2227 5892, +91 62922 58306, [email protected].
- 5 Park Street Police Station, 89, Park St, ☏ +91 33 2226 8321, [email protected].
- 6 Shakespeare Sarani Police Station, ☏ +91 33 2281 2541, [email protected].