La Alpujarra is an enchanting and remarkable part of Andalucia. Treasured by the Moors as a 'paradise' location, this mountainous area lies between the summits of the Sierra Nevada and the Mediterranean coast. As a holiday destination, it is a good place for walking, cycling, riding, photography, painting and the appreciation of flowers and wildlife, but most of all for just unwinding and taking time out.

The southern-facing slopes that ascend to the peaks of the Sierra Nevada are gentle in their incline but are cut by deep valleys and gorges, such as the Rio Poqueira, the Rio Trevelez or the Rio Grande. The hillsides are covered in ancient terraces that are still used to cultivate olives, the fruit of every sort, wheat and vegetables. The legacy of the Moors is the extensive irrigation system, the 'acequias', that divert water out of the deep valleys and onto the broad terraces. This ancient system of watering has been responsible for the characteristic look of the area and for the fact that forests of broad-leafed trees such as the emblematic Chestnut can survive as the water is spread and filtered across the landscape. Along with the cultivation of crops the land is still grazed by sheep and goats, many of which migrate to the pastures of the high Sierra Nevada in the summer months.

The climate is generally mild with temperatures seldom going above 30 °C (86 °F) during the summer in the higher mountain villages. In the winter when the skies are clear, it is often warm enough for just a t-shirt during the day, but at nighttime, the temperatures frequently fall below zero at locations above 1,000 m (3,300 ft).

The area is divided between the eastern Alpujarra in the province of Almeria and the western Alpujarra in Granada. There is also a significant distinction between the villages of the high and low Alpujarra in terms of access and general living conditions associated with climate. The western Alpujarra — notably Orgiva, the Poqueira Gorge (Capileira, Bubión & Pampaneira) and the 7 villages of La Taha — is within easy striking distance of the historical city of Granada with its fabulous Alhambra Palace, yet is close enough to the coast to enjoy a day lounging on the beach. During the winter and spring, you can even go skiing on the high slopes of the Sierra Nevada - less than two hours by car.

• 37.188611-3.7772221 Granada Airport (GRX ^IATA). For a few years, Granada Airport (1 hr) made it almost too easy to holiday in the mountain world of Las Alpujarras, but Easyjet and Ryanair have stopped flights until the Andalucia government agrees again to contribute to the cost. (updated Mar 2024)
• 36.675-4.4991672 Malaga Airport (AGP ^IATA). Malaga Airport (1 hr 45 min) always used to be the preferred choice for visitors to Las Alpujarras and so it is once more. Car hire is inexpensive from Malaga Airport. It's an easy drive along the coast as far as Motril and then inland to Orgiva (for the Low Alpujarra) and from there up the good mountain road to the Poqueira Gorge (Capileira, Bubion & Pampaneira), the Taha de Pitres and beyond. (updated Mar 2024)
• 36.843889-2.373 Almeria Airport (LEI  ^IATA), [email protected]. Almeria Airport (2 hr 15 min) is the other point of entry for flights to this part of Andalucia. (updated Mar 2024)

You can also get to La Alpujarra by bus from Granada, although there are only 3 buses a day (every day) between Granada and High Alpujarra.

• 36.933333-3.3333331 La Alpujarra. The large, sparsely inhabited area covering the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada mountain range, one of Spain's few National Parks. The peaks of over 3,000 m (9,800 ft) make it one of the highest sierras in Europe, and Mulhacen at 3,482 m (11,424 ft) is the highest mountain in the Iberian peninsula. (updated Mar 2024)

While winter skiing is available on the colder, northern side of Sierra Nevada, the southern face of the gently sloping range receives the Andalucian sunshine and is home to a variety of endemic plants, herds of ibex and eagles, as well as the human population in the little white villages dotted here and there.

It's a magnet for walkers and horse riders, offering high altitude terrain, trails through pine forest and spectacular views, while restaurants and comfortable lodging and holiday homes are available in the villages and mountain countryside locations.

A visit to La Alpujarra isn't complete without driving or walking up to Sierra Nevada National Park, best reached from Capileira and Trevelez villages.

The cuisine of the Alpujarras is indicative of its history as an historically improvised agricultural mountainous area. Rich, hearty food that is meant to fill you up after a long days work. Cheap, big portions are common, and while it is a meat-heavy cuisine, there is a fair amount of fish available due to the proximity of the Mediterranean. The stars of the cuisine are cured meats, cheeses, the elaborate pastry tradition, and the homey style of cooking common here. Many restruants will have dishes "por encargo", meaning they needed to be ordered ahead of time. These dishes are often hyper-local rice dishes (arroz liberal in the Ugíjar area for example) or meats that need to be slow cooked. Additionally, on weekdays restaurants will offer a menu del día that are a great, cheap, and filling way to try local cooking. Menus may not be written down or advertised like in cities, so don't be afraid to go in to a restaurant and ask. Make sure to stop by local pastry shops in the area, as their is a long history of unique pastries here going all the way back to the Islamic period.

If you enjoy meat be sure to try the mountain-cured serrano ham, available everywhere, but places like Trevelez or Juviles are very well known for their ham. Also morcilla, a type of black pudding, is a speciality along with the heavily meat-laden Plato Alpujarreño, a hearty feast not unlike an English breakfast, but served for the main meal of the day. Local cheeses are often quite good, and most commonly made from a mix of goat and sheep's milk.

Vegetarians should be aware that the pork is the mainstay of Alpujarra dishes. Spanish omelettes or scrabbled egg dishes 'Revueltas' are good choices for vegetarians. 'Revueltas' are scrambled eggs mixed with other ingredients, so specify 'withoit meat or fish' ('sin carne ni pescado'). A common ingredient to mix with the eggs to make this dish is 'Acelgas' or chard. Mixed salads tend to be large enough to feed two people, but often include tuna and sometimes ham.

One way to ask for a local wine is to order 'Vino Costa'. This is a pinky brown wine with a strong taste and stronger kick. The pinker it is the younger it is - it should be drunk reasonably young. If you order this in a bar the chances are it will have been made by the family who run the bar from their own grapes. Another way to order local wines is to ask for a "vino del terreno." Many of these wines are made locally in the low Alpujarra and what is now considered Costa Tropical.

Coffee is almost always excellent and strong.

For a non-alcoholic beverage ask for Mosto, unfermented grape juice.

Most bars will give you free 'tapas' (small plates of food to nibble) if you have a wine, a beer, or often even just a soft drink. This is a great Spanish tradition that has disappeared from many other areas. Away from the touristy villages closer to Granada, a lot of bars may not have a written menu. Drinks at bars like these are what you expect, beer, wine, soft drinks etc, and the tapas will either be random, or the waiter will list the tapa options of the day to you. Be advised that in quieter towns bars may have irregular hours, or only be opened for the mornings/midday.

Accommodation is generally reasonably priced. Hotels tend to be functional, with a few notable exceptions, such as the delightfully rustic if somewhat remote Alquería de Morayma at Cádiar in the low Alpujarra. A more interesting experience may be had by staying in self-catering cottages and village houses, which often offer good value and are likely to exhibit elements of the curious Berber-style architecture inherited from the Moors.

• Cortijo Opazo, Pórtugos, ☏ +34 958064018. Self-catering accommodation in delightfully restored Alpujarran farmhouse. Situated in the countryside a short walk from the high Alpujarran villages of Pitres and Pórtugos. Ideal base for walking, free guides and maps supplied. Full walking holiday option available. 
• El Gato Negro, Capileira. A pretty, traditional village house offering holiday self-catering for 2 people. Comfortable, fully equipped and in the village. Spectacular location in the Poqueira Gorge with walking trails up to the National Park and down to the river. Visit Granada and the Alhambra or the Costa Tropical on day trips. 
• Viña y Rosales, Nevada. An Andalusian guest house with remarkable architecture, an agreeable atmosphere and the richness of history. With a garden having her own spring, Viña y Rosales offers a wonderful, comfortable and exclusive B&B. 
• Hotel Alcadima Alpujarra, C/ Francisco Tarrega, 3 18420 Lanjarón, ☏ +34 958770809. Nice 3-star hotel in Lanjarón, with swimming pool and spa services. 
• La Cuadra Vieja (850), Válor, Granada, ☏ +34 630 231 642. Charming converted old stables of a labourer's cottage in a quiet corner of the village of Válor. It is suitable for up to four people who wish to self-cater. A pretty terrace with amazing southerly views of La Sierra de La Contraviesa. €30 per night. 

It's hard to imagine anyone having any concerns regarding safety in this region, except for the weather. Sensible precautions should be taken from the sun and heat in the summer to avoid sunburn and heat stroke. Winter in the higher villages is similar to Northern Europe and not what you expect from a region so near to the Mediterranean. Even in summer bad weather on the peaks which rise to 3,500 m (11,500 ft), could be life-threatening.

The nearest city to the Alpujarra is Granada.

In the high Alpujarras consider:

• Pitres
• Portugos