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São Paulo's downtown area (Centro) is where the city was founded and started to grow from, in 1554. It is a concentration of historic buildings and protected areas, from different eras and architecture movements. In the second half of the 20th century, business and upscale households have moved away from downtown, turning the area into a degraded hub for robbery and drugs people preferred to avoid. Many renovation projects took place and are still underway, slowly but confidently turning the old center into an important, lively and vibrant commercial and cultural hotspot.
The Center is composed of the Sé and República districts, plus the ring of districts around these two: Bom Retiro, Santa Cecília, Consolação, Bela Vista, Liberdade and Cambuci.
Much of the best of the architecture of São Paulo is found in the city center. There are many baroque and neoclassical buildings with strong European influence, as well as some impressive early-modern buildings like the S-shaped Copan. While the lack of maintenance made some of those places a target for vandalism, graffiti started to become a common and often welcome decoration to the gray concrete of bridges and buildings.
Note: Av. Paulista partially crosses downtown. For places in this avenue and up to 4 blocks from it, check the São Paulo/Paulista section.
Understand
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Each district of the center has its own peculiar history and characteristics.
- Bela Vista (also known as Bexiga/Bixiga) — One of the biggest centers of Italian culture outside of Italy. Home to the city's most important theater venues and a vibrant nightlife, dotted with bars where bands, be they new or veteran, show off all their skills when it comes to rocking the place.
- Bom Retiro — Contains the neighborhood of Luz, one of the richest neighborhoods of the city during Brazil's coffee-based economy - which fell apart during the 1920s. Luz became decadent, but is slowly getting back into shape. Its historical importance and landmarks still make it a place not to be missed. Bom Retiro has also developed an officially-recognized Koreatown, with a large majority of shops and restaurants owned by Korean immigrants or their descendants.
- Consolação — The neighborhoods composing this district, Consolação, Higienópolis and Pacaembu, were the first to grow outside the historical center. This is the wealthier area of the Center, while R. Augusta is a popular center of nightlife.
- Liberdade — Known as São Paulo's Japanese district, although nowadays more Chinese and Koreans inhabit this area, with many of the ethnic Japanese having moved to more upscale areas. However, the area is still visited a lot by Japanese-Brazilians and those who are fond of Japanese culture. Due to its cheap housing and high-quality cheap restaurants, the area is a very popular choice of place to live for students and temporary workers.
- República — Once the site of the most elegant residential buildings in São Paulo, República was seriously hit by an exodus from downtown in the 1970s and 80s. Nowadays, it has been renovated as the whole historical central area. The streets between Pç. da República and Largo do Arouche make up the oldest gay hot spot in town. It looks decadent, but many individuals young and old cruise in the clubs, movie theaters, dark rooms, and bars from Ipiranga Avenue down to Largo do Arouche.
- Santa Cecília — Like República, Santa Cecília was an upscale residential area that experienced a downturn for various reasons, including the construction of Elevado Presidente Costa e Silva ("Minhocão"), one of the most ill-conceived projects that the city has met, and the most notorious landmark of the district. A revitalization plan for the district is also underway.
- Sé — At the beginning of its history, São Paulo was composed of only the triangle formed by the Monastery of São Bento, the Monastery of São Francisco, and the Pátio do Colégio. Within this minute hub was the River Anhangabaú, which meant "bad spirits" in the native Tupi language. In the 18th century, the river was made into canals and buried into the ground, but the Anhangabaú valley remains in its place. Revitalization works in the 1980s shaped the beautifully arranged square in the Vale do Anhangabaú, where nowadays you can find skateboarders and office workers hanging about.
Get in
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By metro or train
[edit | edit source]The rail network is the easiest and fastest way of getting to the center. 1 Luz. is the main rail stop, connecting two metro and three train lines under one roof. Nearly every line in São Paulo goes through downtown, or at least allows for connections with lines that do. Of particular usefulness to travelers are the stations of 2 República., 3 Liberdade. and 4 Paulista., all of which are at walking distance to many of the attractions, and are also close to useful bus stops.
Oddly, Paulista station is in R. da Consolação, while Consolação station is in Av. Paulista. If you find you have gone to the wrong one, you can simply use the long underground passageway that connects them.
By bus
[edit | edit source]Numerous buses run continuously to the center from other parts of the city. For a visitor, they may sometimes be more convenient than the Metro, and you save some money by taking only buses instead of buses and trains (but not that much). Of particular interest to the traveler is the Circuito Cultural (Cultural Circuit) line, which runs every Sunday from 08:00 to 19:00. It is free to ride, and you can hop on and off at any time, as the bus conveniently stops at many of Downtown's lead attractions, focused mainly on museums and theaters.
Many buses have their first or last stop at 5 Parque Dom Pedro II., the busiest commuter terminal of the city. If you step down at this terminal, memorize the spot where the bus stopped if you plan to go back using the same bus, as you may have a hard time finding it again in the large and confusing terminal.
By car
[edit | edit source]The Center is crossed by Corredor Norte-Sul, that links the north and the south parts of the city, and by Radial Leste-Oeste, that links the west and the east. Av. Rebouças and Av. Nove do Julho come from the Southwest, and Av. do Estado from the southeast.
On weekdays and Saturday morning, going to most parts in the Center of São Paulo by car is not recommended, unless you are masochist, rich, or have a lot of patience. Parking can cost as much as R$ 20 for a single hour! It is best to park in the street at Zona Azul areas, where you pay an amount set by the Municipality, but finding a place to park may take some time. On weekends, cheaper parking is usually available.
Most of the old city wasn't built with cars in mind, being made of pedestrian-only squares. Cars may also make you a more enticing target for robberies in the more run-down areas of these neighborhoods.
See
[edit | edit source]Downtown São Paulo's main draw is its historical significance. It contains many of the oldest buildings, squares, stations, restaurants and streets in the city, often in high contrast with modern infrastructure finding its way into the center. Many of the locations in the Do, Buy and Eat sections are worth a look for their architecture alone, so make sure to stop by them as well if doing a tour of São Paulo history.
Historical landmarks
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- 1 Jardim da Luz (Next to Luz station, adjacent to Pinacoteca de São Paulo). The park in front of the Luz station was a meeting point for São Paulo's high society in the early 20th century. It is now a calm and beautiful environment that contrasts with the urban chaos and degradation of its surroundings.
- 2 Largo da Memória, Sé (Near Vale do Anhangabaú). The obelisk in this square dates from 1814, which marks São Paulo becoming a city.
- 3 Largo São Bento, Sé (Near São Bento station). The square holds São Bento's church and monastery, a 17th century monastery, where mass is still held against a backdrop of Gregorian chants. The monks' bakery is a temptation. Give in, it’s no sin.
- 4 Largo São Francisco, Sé (Near Sé and Anhangabaú stations). Church and Convent of Saint Francis and the historic Law School of the University of São Paulo.
- 5 Minhocão (Elevado Presidente Costa e Silva) (From Pç. Roosevelt to Largo Padre Péricles). The Minhocão ("Big Worm"), a 2.7-km-long highway opened in 1970, is considered to be a monument to poor urban planning and to the chaotic growth of the city in a not-so-distant past. Its construction turned a large portion of the city center into a degraded area. The highway is closed to cars, but open for pedestrians and bicycles, Monday to Friday from 20:00 to 7:00, Saturdays starting from 15:00 and the entirety of Sunday. Over the Minhocão, you have a unique view of the west part of the city center, mostly the Santa Cecília district. Seeing the Minhocão from below is also interesting, as it has been covered with works of art.
- 6 Praça da República, República (Near República station). There are buildings that bear witness to many different architectural styles: the 1935 Edifício Esther, considered the first with a modern architectural design; the S-shaped Edifício Copan designed by Oscar Niemeyer; and Edifício Itália (see Historical buildings).
- 7 Praça da Sé, Sé (Between R. XV de Novembro and R. Direita. Sé metrô station.). São Paulo's central square (marked by the Marco Zero monument) has fountains, 16 sculptures, palm trees and lots and lots of people. The Catedral da Sé and Palácio da Justiça de São Paulo are located here. Free.
- 8 Vale do Anhangabaú, Sé (Near Metro station Anhangabaú). The valley is a giant boulevard with gardens, sculptures and a view of the main downtown office buildings. Edifício Altino Arantes and Palácio dos Correios are here.
- 9 Viaduto do Chá, Sé (Near Anhangabaú station). Linking R. Barão de Itapetininga to R. Direita. Marks the transition from old to the new part of the center.
Historical buildings
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- 10 B3 (Bovespa - Bolsa de Valores de São Paulo), R. XV de Novembro, 275 (Near São Bento station, opposite to Edifício Altino Arantes), ☏ +55 11 2565-5176, contato@mub3.org.br. Mon-Sat 09:00-17:00. This exchange is the largest in South America, founded in 1890 by Emílio Rangel Pestana. You can have a visit to the museum inside the building, showcasing Brazil's economic history.
- 11 Edifício Copan, Av. Ipiranga, 200 (Near República station). This S-shaped building, the largest residential building of Latin America, was projected by famous Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer and was the symbol of the emerging "modern" São Paulo during the 1960s. As the rest of the Historic Center, the building entered a period of decadence, but its inhabitants now have a middle class profile, and it is still one of the most beautiful skyscrapers of the city center.
- 12 Farol Santander (Edifício Altino Arantes), R. João Brícola, 24 (near São Bento station). Tue-Sun 09:00-19:00. Previously known as Edifício Banespa (after the bank that used to occupy the building), this was the tallest skyscraper in the city between its completion in 1947 and the construction of the Edifício Italia in 1965. Aside from art exhibitions, a cafe and an indoor skate park, visitors can take a lift to the 35th floor and climb up to the tower, from which there are panoramic views of the city. The top of the building lights up in different colors to celebrate certain dates. R$40,00.
- 13 Palácio do Anhangabaú (Edifício Matarazzo, Banespinha), Viaduto do Chá, 15 (Near Anhangabaú station). São Paulo's city hall is a building from the 1930s in modernist architectural style. The building had been the home of Indústrias Matarazzo, which used to be the most powerful manufacturing company in Brazil.
- 14 Palácio dos Correios, Pç. do Correio. Home to the state's mail service, constructed in 1922.
- 15 Palácio da Justiça de São Paulo, Pç. da Sé. Home to the Higher Courts of Law of the State of São Paulo since 1933. Hosts an exhibition about law in the state.
- 16 Solar da Marquesa, R. Roberto Simonsen, 136 (Near Sé station), ☏ +55 11 3106-2218. Tue-Sun 09:00-17:00. Emperor Dom Pedro I's powerful concubine, the Marchess of Santos is one of the most popular monarchy figures in Brazilian popular culture. Her colonial house is now a museum. Free.
Historical churches
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- 17 Basílica de Nossa Senhora do Carmo (Santuário Basílica de Nossa Senhora do Monte Carmelo), R. Martiniano de Carvalho, 114, ☏ +55 11 3146-4500, pascombasilicadocarmo@gmail.com. A vast baroque basilica decorated with frescoes by Benedito Calixto.
- 18 Capela dos Aflitos (Capela de Nossa Senhora dos Aflitos), R. dos Aflitos, 70 (Near Liberdade station). A creepy-looking church in a small street near Pç. da Liberdade, it is one of the oldest surviving churches of the city, dating back to 1774, when it was built to be the chapel of the city's first cemetery. It is still the destination of romaria Catholic pilgrimages.
- 19 Catedral da Sé (Catedral Metropolitana Nossa Senhora da Assunção e São Paulo), Pç. da Sé. São Paulo's main catholic church, with 14 towers, built in a Gothic and Renaissance style. Although the current construction was finished in 1954, the original cathedral, at the same spot, dates from the early history of São Paulo - 1616.
- 20 Igreja da Consolação (Paróquia Nossa Senhora da Consolação), R. da Consolação, 585 (Near República station). Built in the neo-gothic style in 1909, when its surroundings were still semi-rural and poor. Contains paintings of Benedito Calixto and Oscar Pereira da Silva.
- 21 Igreja da Nossa Senhora de Boa Morte (Igreja da Boa Morte da Virgem Maria), R. do Carmo, 202 (Near Sé station), ☏ +55 11 3101-6889. Known in the past as “Igreja das Boas Notícias” (Church of Good News) due to its bells tolling whenever someone important arrived in São Paulo, the historical church opened in 1810. Local legend says its curious name ("Our Lady of Good Death") is due to the fact that the church was a place of prayer for African slaves sentenced to death. Historically speaking, it distinguished itself as one of the few churches in that era which allowed anyone in, regardless of ethnicity.
- 22 Igreja da Ordem Terceira do Carmo (Capela da Venerável Ordem Terceira do Carmo), Av. Rangel Pestana, 230, ☏ +55 11 3242-8361. A church from the colonial period, finished in 1758, with the original building dating back to 1592. Contains over a hundred pieces of art from the colonial area.
- 23 Igreja Santa Ifigênia (Paróquia Matriz Nossa Senhora da Conceição), R. Santa Ifigênia, 30 (Near São Bento and Luz stations). Built in a neo-romantic style with neo-gothic details, it resembles medieval churches in northern Europe. It was temporarily the cathedral of São Paulo between 1930 and 1954. Contains paintings of Henri Bernard, Benedito Calixto and Carlos Oswald.
Museums
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- 24 Catavento Cultural e Educacional (Palácio das Indústrias), Parque Dom Pedro II. Tue-Sun 09:00-17:00. Former São Paulo city hall, constructed during the 1920s in an eclectic style. It now hosts an interactive science museum, a very popular choice to take the kids to. R$20,00.
- 25 Galeria Vermelho, Rua Minas Gerais, 350, ☏ +55 11 3138-1520. Focused on showcasing Latin American artists, with the entrance changing its painting whenever there's a new exhibition. Ironically, despite being named "Red Gallery", the walls are mostly white.
- 26 Memorial da Resistência, Largo General Osório, 66 (Near Júlio Prestes station), ☏ +55 11 3335-5910, faleconosco@memorialdaresistenciasp.org.br. Wed-Mon 10:00-17:00. Dedicated to those who fought against the military dictatorship in Brazil, which occurred from 1964 to 1985. Here you can see prison cells, written documents, spoken testimonies and visual records of this period. Free.
- 27 Museu Anchieta, Pátio do Colégio, 02 (Near Pç. da Sé). Tue-Sat 09:00-16:45. Dedicated to one of the city's founders, José de Anchieta, and also the place where São Paulo was founded on January 25, 1554. It contains many paintings and historic documents, the most interesting of which is a scale model of early São Paulo. The Pátio do Colégio square also contains a church where his femur is located, alongside a library. Free.
- 28 Museu de Arte Brasileira, R. Alagoas, 903, ☏ +55 11 3662-7198, atendimento.mab@faap.br. Tue-Sun 10:00-17:30. Ran by Fundação Armando Alvares Penteado (FAAP), an arts university. Houses a variety of temporary exhibitions. Price varies by exhibition.
- 29 Museu de Arte Sacra, Av. Tiradentes, 676, ☏ +55 11 3322-5393. Tue-Sun 9:00-16:30. With its wealth of religious images (Museu da Natividade is housed there), it is where Carmelite Nuns prepared Frei Galvão pills, which many consider to be miraculous. R$6, free on Saturdays.
- 30 Museu de Energia de São Paulo, Alameda Cleveland, 601, ☏ +55 11 3224-1477, saopaulo@museudaenergia.org.br. Thu-Sat 10:00-17:00. Focused on the history of different kinds of energy that powered both São Paulo and the world, includes interactive exhibitions. Free.
- 31 Museu da Língua Portuguesa, Pç. da Luz (Near Luz station, entrance by the side of the plaza, in front of Pinacoteca), ☏ +55 11 3322-0080. Tue-Sun 10:00-16:30. A interactive linguistics museum that shows the different accents and dialects of Portuguese in Europe, Africa, Asia and South America, as well as its relation to other tongues and their developments and influence of African, Amerindian, Asian and European languages on Brazilian Portuguese. R$25, free on Thursdays and Sundays.
- 32 Pinacoteca do Estado, Pç. da Luz, 2 (Between Jardim da Luz and Av. Prestes Maia), ☏ +55 11 3324-1000. Wed-Mon 10:00-17:00. High quality temporary exhibits share the stage with the museum’s fantastic painting and sculpture collection. Come early to avoid the crowds. R$42,50, free on Saturdays and the second Sunday of every month.
Other
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The Júlio Prestes and Luz train stations are historical landmarks, related to the transport of workers and coffee produce that made São Paulo so rich early in its history. They still work as train and metro stations, worth a stop while moving around downtown.
- 33 Cemitério da Consolação, R. da Consolação. Daily 07:00-17:00. Since the early 20th century, this necropolis has buried some of the most well known figures in Brazil, such as Tarsila do Amaral, Mário de Andrade and Monteiro Lobato, many of them with beautiful sculptures carved for their graves. The wealthy Matarazzo family owns the largest mausoleum in South America, located here.
- 34 Parque Buenos Aires, Av. Angélica (Near Higienópolis station). One of the few green areas in the Center, it contains bronze statues by France artists, some built into fountains.
- 35 Estádio do Pacaembu (Museu do Futebol), Pç. Charles Miller, ☏ +55 11 3664-3848, contato@museudofutebol.org.br. Tue–Sun 09:00–18:00. One of the country's most important and iconic stadiums, Estádio do Pacaembu is an art deco giant built in 1940, and 10 years later hosted six matches of the 1950 FIFA World Cup. Since then, it has hosted several final matches for national and continental tournaments, alongside large concerts for famous performers, such as Paul McCartney, Iron Maiden, Rolling Stones and Eric Clapton. Nowadays, it also houses a museum all about the sport. R$ 24 for the museum, free for the stadium itself.
Do
[edit | edit source]Concerts and theatre
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The center of São Paulo contains dozens of theatres and concert halls, with dozens of performances being carried everyday. Most theatrical performances are in Portuguese, and their price may vary from completely free to R$ 300. It is better to choose the place by the performance you want to see. The following theatres and concert halls are the ones that deserve particular attention:
- 1 Sala São Paulo, Pç. Júlio Prestes (Near Júlio Prestes station), ☏ +55 11 3367-9500. Daily 09:00-18:00. The other traditional address for classical music fans. The São Paulo State Symphony Orchestra (OSESP), an important symphony orchestra which represents the state, plays its concerts there. It’s also possible to pre-arrange guided visits of the theater and main hall. Price varies by presentation.
- 2 Teatro Renault (Teatro Abril, Paramount Theater), Av. Brigadeiro Luís Antônio, 411. Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00. Opened in 1929, this building's purpose changed along with its leadership, going from a movie theater to a live performance theater. Hosts the most popular Broadway-style musicals south of the equator, translated into Portuguese. Price varies by presentation.
- 3 Theatro Municipal, Pç. Ramos de Azevedo, ☏ +55 11 3367-7200. Mon-Fri 09:00-19:00, Sat Sun 10:00-16:20. One of the two traditional addresses for classical music fans. This is where the historic Modern Art Week took place in 1922. The building, designed by Ramos de Azevedo in 1911, is reason enough to justify a visit. It now houses the Orquestra Sinfônica Municipal de São Paulo, the city's main symphony orchestra. Guided visits need to be booked in advance. Free to visit, price varies by presentation.
Cultural centers
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- 4 Biblioteca Mário de Andrade, R. da Consolação, 94 (Near Anhangabaú station), ☏ +55 11 3150-9457. The largest library in the city and the second largest in the country, named after the modernist artist. With over 3,2 million titles, it distinguishes itself for its collection of 60 thousand rare documents dating back to the 19th century.
- 5 Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil, R. Álvares Penteado, 112 (Near São Bento station), ☏ +55 11 4297-0600, ccbbsp@bb.com.br. Wed-Mon 09:00-20:00. Once the bank’s first headquarters in São Paulo — offers an excellent program of arts, movies, theater and music at accessible prices.
- 6 Centro Cultural São Paulo, R. Vergueiro, 1000 (Near Vergueiro station), ☏ +55 11 3397-4002, ccsp@prefeitura.sp.gov.br. Tue-Sun 10:00-22:00. A general culture center where limited time events often take place. It has a library, movie theater and concerts. It is a common place for informal street dance and board game gatherings. Price varies by exhibition.
- 7 Sociedade Brasileira de Cultura Japonesa (Edifício Bunkyo), R. São Joaquim, 381 (Near São Joaquim station), ☏ +55 11 93250-1202, contato@bunkyo.org.br. Tue-Sun 10:00-16:00 (museum). This cultural center of the Japanese diaspora contains the Museu de Imigração Japonesa, where visitors can learn about the history of the Japanese community in Brazil. A lot of activities are available, including Japanese courses and the youth group (Seinen Bunkyo). These activities are open to everyone, not only Japanese descendants. R$25 (museum), free on Wednesdays.
Other
[edit | edit source]- 8 São Paulo Night Walk, Pç. Ramos de Azevedo, ☏ +55 11 3256-7909. Thu 20:00. The historical part of downtown is known for being unsafe at night, so to compensate for that, local NGOs organize a nocturnal walking tour every Thursday. It is an opportunity to have a different look at some of downtown's most famous sights. Unfortunately, the tour is only given in Portuguese. Free.
Events
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The center of São Paulo is the place of cultural events, racking up hundreds of thousands of visitors. Avoid going to such events by car, as you may spend more time stuck in traffic and searching for a place to park than enjoying the events themselves. By date, those include:
- Chinese New Year, Pç. da Liberdade and surroundings. January-February. The largest festival of the Chinese community in São Paulo celebrates the Chinese new year. Celebrated every year with typical Chinese performances and food. Free.
- Tanabata Matsuri (Festival das Estrelas), Pç. da Liberdade and surroundings. July. This traditional event of the Japanese community is celebrated every year around July. In this event, people write their wishes into pieces of paper and hang them into bamboo sticks. There is also a cosplay contest, typical Japanese food, and performances of both traditional and modern Japanese culture. Free.
- Festa de Nossa Senhora Acheropita, R. 13 de Maio and R. Doutor Luiz Barreto. August. The largest festival of the Italian community in São Paulo, and also a religious event. Celebrated every year, it typically lasts the whole month. Includes typical Italian food, music and performances. Free.
Learn
[edit | edit source]All these listed high education institutions are private and located in the district of Consolação.
- 1 Universidade Presbiteriana Mackenzie. Founded in 1870 as the American School, is one of the oldest institutions of higher education in Brazil. The university is regarded, nationally and internationally, as a center of excellence having graduated numerous important names of Brazilian history. The nickname Mackenzista is often used to refer to Mackenzie present or former students.
- 2 Fundação Armando Alvares Penteado (FAAP). The institute's college offers prime arts courses with prices to match. After the museum and theater, the bodyguards on the surroundings of the campus are the main attraction.
- 3 Fundação Getúlio Vargas (FGV-SP). Founded in 1944, it is known for its renowned Economics degree.
- 4 Instituto Europeo di Design, R. Maranhão, 617. Focused on fashion and design degrees.
Buy
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A little bit of everything is available in Centro. The Old City Center, especially around the Law School on Largo São Francisco, is the place to go if you’re looking for rare, discounted or out-of-print books. There are several good used bookstores in the area, some — such as the Messias — are traditional São Paulo favorites.
- 1 Bairro da Liberdade, Liberdade (Near Liberdade station). Liberdade means "freedom", and indeed few places are as free as the center of the Japanese district of São Paulo. Although mainly a shopping area, the place has become a meeting point for many young subcultures, from punks to kawaii girls to cosplay dressers, so you can hardly find so many different people somewhere else in the city - except maybe in Av. Paulista. There you can find a large number of shops and restaurants selling things related to Japan, China and Korea, plus electronics, cosmetics, jewelry, clothing, CDs and DVDs. The supermarkets on here are so well stocked with imported food and goods that you may think it has been shipped whole straight from Japan. The favorite place for young people (but not only them) is the SoGo Shopping in R. Galvão Buenno, very close to Pç. da Liberdade. The Feira Oriental (Oriental fair) happens on weekends at Pç. da Liberdade; there you can buy typical Asian food and handcrafts.
- 2 Galeria do Rock (Shopping Center Grandes Galerias), Av. São João, 439 (Near São Bento station). Mon-Fri 09:00-19:00, Sat 09:00-18:00. Fans of all types of music coexist peacefully in the corridors of the Galeria do Rock, a prime example of pre-mall architecture. There, you can search and buy from T-shirts sporting underground Japanese bands, to hard-to-find CDs. More than 300 shops.
- 3 Rua 25 de Março, Sé (Near São Bento station). For costumes, accessories, kitchen gear and other knick-knacks, don’t hesitate to go this place, the most famous collection of warehouses in Brazil. Several specialty business streets are also in this area. The shopping malls Galeria Pajé and Shopping 25 de Março are located here. The Ladeira Porto Geral is a hub for cheap costumes and accessories. This area is known for commerce of smuggled goods, but this activity has been reduced considerably due to intense police action.
- 4 Rua José Paulino, Bom Retiro (Near Luz station). A popular place for clothes, especially women's wear, due to the clothing factories and workshops around the area. This neighborhood used to be known for Jewish shops in the 1960s, but since then, Koreans have been acquiring the clothes shops and taking over businesses. Many of the clothes that stock elegant shops in the city's more upscale malls come from here, and so do many of the fashion trends that will take over Brazilian mainstream shops, imported by Korean shop owners straight from New York and Paris.
- 5 Feira de Antiguidades Praça Dom Orione (Feira do Bixiga), Pç. Dom Orione (Between R. 13 de Maio and R. Ruy Barbosa). Sun 08:00-17:00. Sells everything "old", from furniture to books and discs. Sacred art is available at Velhiquário. Nice Italian restaurants are nearby.
- 6 Feira de Artesanato da Praça da República, Pç. da República. Sat Sun 08:00-17:00. São Paulo's most traditional open market of handcrafts and art, that happens since 1956. About 800 exhibitors.
- 7 Shopping Frei Caneca, R. Frei Caneca, 569, ☏ +55 11 3472-2000. Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 14:00-20:00. The shopping mall has become a favorite meeting spot among the LGBT residents in São Paulo. The 9-room cinema shows both mainstream and alternative films. About 140 shops.
- 8 Shopping Pátio Higienópolis, Av. Higienópolis, 618. Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 14:00-20:00. Shopping mall with a more upscale profile, attending the district of Consolação. It has a cinema and a nice theater room. About 305 shops.
Eat
[edit | edit source]| This page uses the following price ranges for a typical meal for one, including soft drink: | |
| Budget | Below R$ 50 |
| Mid-range | R$ 50-100 |
| Splurge | R$ 100+ |
Contrast is the area's middle name. You can eat well both in traditional local eateries or elegant restaurants. The neighborhood of Liberdade is famed for Asian food from different countries, while Bixiga concentrates Italian options. República and R. Augusta have a strong concentration of bars and burger shops for more casual dining, alongside fine dining options. Some of the immigrant-owned restaurants (especially at Liberdade) only accept cash or Pix payments, so make sure to not rely on cards.
Food markets
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A great option for budget-conscious food that's still authentic, colorful and delicious. Those tend to be quite busy, though.
- 1 Feira do Bom Retiro, R. Cônego Martins. Sat 10:00-17:00. Korean street market with traditional food, K-pop dance contests and souvenirs available.
- 2 Feira Oriental (Feirinha da Liberdade), Pç. da Liberdade (near Liberdade station). Sat Sun 09:00-18:00. At this weekend open market, you can taste Asian delicacies like gyoza, takoyaki and okonomiyaki as well as non-Asian treats like acarajé from Bahia. Look for unusual sweets like ginger ice cream or even tempura-fried ice-cream.
- 3 Mercado Municipal (Mercadão), R. da Cantareira, 306 (near São Bento station), ☏ +55 11 3313-3365. Daily 06:00-18:00. A truly traditional outing in São Paulo, the "Big Market" is a mosaic of color and flavor that showcases a little something from all the different nationalities that settled in the capital. Pop in to sample the most beloved pastries and sandwiches in the city; a locals' favorite is the sanduíche de mortadela. And don’t forget to pick up some other local delicacies, spices and fruits.
Budget
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- 4 Bar Estadão, Viaduto Nove de Julho, 193 (where it meets Major Quedinho), ☏ +55 11 3257-7121. 24 hours. Burgers and sandwiches. Try the famous sanduíche de pernil, barbecued ham sandwich, the comfort food for many generations of journalists and students that roam around that region. R$30-50.
- 5 Hot Pork, R. Bento Freitas, 454, ☏ +55 11 3129-8735. Daily 12:00-22:45. Hot dogs with unusual ingredients such as apple sauce, pork-based sandwiches and even ice cream with torresmo (deep-fried pork fat bits). Relaxed and young atmosphere. R$40-60.
- 6 Ponto Chic, Largo do Paiçandu, 27 - República (Near São Bento and República stations), ☏ +55 11 3222-6528. Mon-Fri 12:00-20:00, Sat 12:00-18:00. Founded in 1922, this is the place where the famous bauru - a sandwich that comprises 4 types of cheese melted into a fondue, along with roast beef and tomato slices - was invented. R$40-60.
- 7 Pop Vegan Food, R. Fernando de Albuquerque, 142/144, ☏ +55 11 2157-4358. Mon-Wed 11:15-14:45, 17:30-23:00; Thu 11:15-14:20, 18:00-23:00; Fri 11:15-14:45, 17:30-00:00; Sat 11:15-14:45, 17:30-00:00; Sun 15:30-22:00. Fully vegan restaurant with an all-you-can-eat buffet at a fixed price during daytime. Offers a pizza buffet at night. R$20-60.
- 8 Restaurante Lamen ASKA, R. Barão de Iguape, 260, ☏ +55 11 3277-9682. Sun Tue 11:00-17:00; Wed-Sat 11:00-14:00, 18:00-20:30. Typical Japanese ramen shop, where you are greeted with an irasshai-mase (welcome in Japanese) at the door and noodle-slurping noises from the Japanese customers. Also has great gyozas as side dishes. R$40-60.
- 9 Restaurante Sato, R. Galvão Bueno, 268, ☏ +55 11 3208-8504. Mon-Sat 10:30-15:30. Traditional Brazilian food with minor Japanese touches. Also serves yakisoba. R$30-50.
Mid-range
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- 10 Cantina Taberna do Julio, R. Conselheiro Carrão, 392, ☏ +55 11 96249-5724. Thu 11:40-15:45, 18:45-22:00; Fri 11:40-16:00, 18:45-22:30; Sat 11:40-16:45, 18:40-22:45; Sun 11:40-17:40. Italian cuisine in a rustic atmosphere. Live music on weekends. R$80-150.
- 11 Chi Fu, Pç. Carlos Gomes, 200, ☏ +55 11 3101-8888. Mon-Fri 11:00-15:30, 17:30-21:00; Sat Sun 11:00-21:00. A Chinese restaurant famous for authentic and tasty Cantonese dishes with cheap and generous portions. Communicating with the staff can be a challenge, as many only speak Chinese, but the food is worth the while. Reservations only for groups. All the tables are large, so if going alone or in a smaller group of 2-4, you may have to share a table with other customers, Chinese-style. Check out the interior decoration of the restaurant, fitted with golden fixtures, a small elevator, and large paintings on the walls. Try the mariscos com alho, clams with garlic. R$60-100.
- 12 Kabura, R. Galvão Bueno, 346, ☏ +55 11 3277-2918, izakaya.kabura@gmail.com. Tue-Sat 18:30-22:00. Japanese restaurant with an extensive menu. Try the fried oysters or the yosenabe, stewed white fish with vegetables. R$50-100.
- 13 Nandemoyá, R. Galvão Bueno, 451 (near Liberdade station), ☏ +55 11 3207-4822. Mon-Fri 11:30-15:00, Sat Sun 11:30-16:00. If you are the kind of tourist who doesn't like to feel at all like a tourist, check this "factory-style" restaurant immensely popular among workers in the region, with long lines, self-service catering, and capacity for 400 people. The quality and diversity of food (Japanese, Chinese and Brazilian) will surely impress you. Many people come here to pile on high-quality sashimi at prices much lower than typical à-la-carte Japanese restaurants. R$60-80.
- 14 O Gato que Ri ("the laughing cat"), Largo do Arouche, 41 (near República station), ☏ +55 11 3331-0089. Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri Sat 11:00-00:00. Traditional Italian restaurant in República, opened in 1951. R$80-100.
- 15 Rong He, R. da Glória, 622A, ☏ +55 11 3207-1206. Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, 18:00-22:00; Sat Sun 12:00-16:00, 18:00-22:00. Chinese restaurant with a huge menu specializing in noodle dishes. At the right-hand corner of the main room, behind a glass window, the cook displays his ability to shape yakisoba noodles by hand. Seafood yakisoba is a good choice for 2-3 people to share. R$70-80.
- 16 Sujinho Churrascaria, R. da Consolação, 2078, ☏ +55 11 3154-5207. Daily 11:30-04:00. Century-old barbecue restaurant that started as a bar. Plenty of cuts, sides and common paulistano dishes available. If you don't feel like it, they also have a burger shop and a cafe just crossing the street. R$80-200.
Splurge
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- 17 Carlota, R. Sergipe, 753, ☏ +55 11 3661-8670, carlabeatrizpernambuco@gmail.com. Tue-Thu: 12:00-15:00, 19:00-23:00; Fri 12:00-15:00, 18:30-23:30; Sat 12:00-05:00, 19:00-23:30; Sun 12:00-17:00. A bright, cheerful restaurant with a multi-cultural menu with items from a variety of countries from Peru to Italy to Thailand. R$100-200.
- 18 A Casa do Porco Bar, R. Araújo, 124, ☏ +55 11 3258-2578. Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-17:00. Restaurant and bar focused on pork dishes. Includes unique experiments such as raw pork temaki, along with a large drink selection and snacks to go. R$150-300.
- 19 Le Casserole, Largo do Arouche 346, ☏ +55 11 3331-6283. Mon 12:00-15:00; Tue Wed 12:00-15:00, 19:00-23:00; Thu Fri 12:00-15:00, 19:00-00:00; Sat 12:30-16:00, 19:00-00:00; Sun 12:30-16:30. Charming French bistro that is adorned with vintage posters and offers culinary delights such as homemade cherry strudels and roast lamb. R$120-200.
- 20 Famiglia Mancini, R. Avanhandava, 81, ☏ +55 11 3256-4320. Sun-Wed 11:30-23:00; Thu-Sat 11:30-00:00. Very popular and traditional Italian restaurant. All dishes are made to serve two people. Buses of tourists come and go at the door. If going at peak time, expect a long wait to be seated. R$130-200.
- 21 Ici Bistrô, R. Mato Grosso, 396, ☏ +55 11 3257-4064. Mon-Thu 12:00-15:00, 19:00-23:00; Fri 12:00-15:00, 19:00-23:30; Sat 12:00-16:00, 19:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-16:30. Cozy French cuisine bistro with honest food and prices. Expect to find some of the classic dishes, such as steak tartare, steak poivre and moules et frites (mussels and chips). R$150-200.
- 22 Jardim di Napoli, R. Dr. Martinico Prado, 463, ☏ +55 11 3666-3022. Mon-Fri 11:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. One of the most traditional Italian cantinas in São Paulo. Try the polpetone, a kind of flat meatloaf filled with melted mozzarella cheese, for which special recipe this restaurant became famous for. R$130-200.
- 23 Templo da Carne Marcos Bassi, R. 13 de Maio, 668, ☏ +55 11 3251-1442. Tue-Fri 12:00-15:00, 18:30-23:00; Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. Renowned chef Marcos Bassi's "temple of meat" is one of the city's most famous steakhouses. R$100-200.
- 24 Terraço Itália, Av. Ipiranga, 344 (41st floor), ☏ +55 11 2189-2929. Mon-Thu 12:00-00:00; Fri Sat 12:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. High-end Italian cuisine with a 360º view of the city. R$200-300.
Drink
[edit | edit source]República was the main choice for nightlife in the past, but Liberdade and R. Augusta is becoming popular for options catering to alternative cultures and more specific audiences.
- 1 Bar Brahma, Av. São João, 677, ☏ +55 11 94746-2664, relacionamento@fabricadebares.com.br. Mon-Wed 11:00-01:00; Thu-Sat 11:00-02:00; Sun 11:00-00:00. One of the best places in São Paulo for live music, especially on Thursday and Sunday, when traditional samba plays. This bar was opened in the 1920s and is the most traditional place to hear classics of Brazilian Popular Music (MPB). R$-80-200.
- 2 Bar Leo, R. Aurora, 100, ☏ +55 11 3221-0247, relacionamento@fabricadebares.com.br. Mon-Thu 11:00-20:00; Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. Opened in 1940. Go for the beer, served with a minimum of three fingers of foam. Always full and popular with locals and visitors alike. R$60-160.
- 3 Café Piu Piu, R. Treze de Maio, 134, ☏ +55 11 3258-8066. Wed Sun 19:30-23:30; Thu 20:30-01:30; Fri Sat 21:00-04:00. The place to go for live music, especially jazz and blues. Has an old world feel with marble bar tops and antique balconies, but it's the perfect place to hear good music. R$60-80.
- 4 Espeto Bambu, R. Haddock Lobo, 71 (Near Consolação station), ☏ +55 11 3586-5101. Wed-Thu 17:30-23:30; Fri 17:30-00:30; Sat 14:30-00:30; Sun 14:30-22:30. Small but pleasant LGBT-focused bar. Live music on some nights. R$40-80.
- 5 Selva Club (Inferno Club), R. Augusta, 501, ☏ +55 11 98912-1615. Fri 22:00-00:00; Sat 00:00-06:00, 22:00-00:00; Sun 00:00-06:00. Electronic club at the center of São Paulo's nightlife street. R$80-100.
- 6 Tequilla's (Choperia Liberdade), R. da Glória, 523, ☏ +55 11 98156-9290. Mon-Thu 19:00-03:00;:Fri Sat 19:00-05:00. A mix of restaurant, karaoke and snooker bar, this unimaginable place packs on Thursdays and Fridays and is often featured on TV. Get in after 22:00. R$60-120.
Sleep
[edit | edit source]| This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room: | |
| Budget | Below R$ 300 |
| Mid-range | R$ 300-500 |
| Splurge | R$ 500+ |
Sleeping in Downtown is rather expensive, so unless you're looking for luxury, it is often more cost-effective to sleep somewhere else in the city. As long as you're close to the subway, you lose little time for doing so. The region around the República station is popular for lodging, and because of the heavy foot traffic and policing, it's relatively safe even at night.
Budget
[edit | edit source]- 1 Banri Hotel, R. Galvão Bueno, 209 (3 blocks down from Liberdade station.), ☏ +55 11 3207-8877. Clean, straightforward but good service. Get a room on a higher floor, as the streets can get noisy. R$170-200.
- 2 Hotel Calstar, R. Epitácio Pessoa, 97, ☏ +55 11 3258-5118, reservas@hotelcalstar.com.br. This centrally located hotel is clean and quite decorated modernly. It offers breakfast buffet. Staff are kind and helpful and they use innovative method for communication since they don't speak good English. R$200-300.
- 3 Ibis Budget SP Centro São João (Formerly Formule 1), Av. São João, 1140, ☏ +55 11 6878-6400. Regular Ibis Budget hotel, close to República station. R$200-300.
- 4 Pousada Dona Ziláh, R. Minas Gerais, 112, ☏ +55 11 3061-5413. Check-in: 12:00-23:00, check-out: 07:00-23:00. Garden decoration in a villa style, with 6 suites. Enjoy breakfast and fruit trees on the property. R$200-300.
Mid price
[edit | edit source]- 5 Hotel Intercity Pamplona - The Universe Paulista, R. Pamplona, 83, ☏ +55 11 3298-6600. A family-friendly venue 600 m from Av. Paulista. It has air-conditioned guest rooms and is equipped with an outdoor pool, a fitness center, a sauna, internet, complementary breakfast, bar, garden, safes and kitchen units. R$450-700.
- 6 H3 Hotel Paulista, R. Rocha, 217, ☏ +55 11 3373-1818. Three-star hotel. A modern accommodation venue with contemporary decor, anti-allergic flooring, private bathroom, telephones and air conditioning. It offers a buffet breakfast with cakes, fresh bread and tropical fruit. R$250-300.
- 7 Pousada dos Franceses, R. dos Franceses, 100, ☏ +55 11 3288-1592. This amazing Mediterranean feel hostel is located close to the Brigadeiro subway station. It is in a safe and quiet neighborhood, with pleasant and bright common areas and private rooms of varying sizes and comfort. R$200-800.
- 8 Slaviero Downtown São Paulo, R. Araújo, 141, ☏ +55 11 3504-3959. Three-star hotel. This sound insulated hotel offers 260 air-conditioned apartments, swimming pool, conference center, business center, free internet, lobby bar, fitness center and rooms for non-smokers. R$300-500.
Splurge
[edit | edit source]- 9 Transamerica Executive Higienópolis, R. Alagoas, 974, ☏ +55 11 3660-1840, reservas.tehi@ahi.com.br. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. High end business hotel with all the expected amenities, including free wi-fi, parking and fitness center. R$700-900.
- 10 Hotel Luz Plaza São Paulo, R. Prates, 145, ☏ +55 11 2627-3400, reservas@luzplazahotel.com.br. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. 4-star hotel with panoramic views over downtown. Equipped with a restaurant, bar, sauna, whirlpool, gym and rooftop swimming pool. Offers non-smoking rooms and facilities for disabled guests. R$450-500.
- 11 INNSiDE by Meliá São Paulo Higienópolis, R. Maranhão, 371, ☏ +55 11 3665-8200, innside.higienopolis@melia.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Luxurious suites 700 m away from the Higienópolis-Mackenzie subway station. R$500-700.
- 12 Nikkey Palace, R. Galvão Bueno, 425, ☏ +55 11 3207-8511, reservas@nikkeyhotel.com.br. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Three-star hotel. Probably the fanciest place to stay in Liberdade. R$300-400.
- 13 Novotel São Paulo Jaraguá Conventions, R. Martins Fontes, 71 (near República station), ☏ +55 11 2802-7000, reservas@nacionalinnjaragua.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. With 27 floors and 220 hotel rooms, be sure to ask for a room on the upper floors, for great views over the city. Good buffet breakfast served, somewhat pricey but will fill you up. R$300-400.
- 14 The Park Hall Flat, R. Aracajú, 66, ☏ +55 11 3824-9311. Full apartment suites. R$500-600.
Stay safe
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Safety in the Downtown region has largely improved. However, the Centro Velho ("Old Town", the area composed by the Sé and República districts, plus the adjacent Luz neighborhood in Bom Retiro/Santo Cecília), precisely the area where most historical sights are contained, is still problematic in terms of safety.
During the day (except on Sundays), the Old Town is considerably safe. You will see many homeless people in the streets, but there will be ostensive presence of police, and most streets will be quite crowded for anything to happen. Homeless people generally ignore passersby, but pickpockets in very crowded streets are common, just like annoying vendors. Watch your belongings all the time.
There are some particular areas to be aware of even during the day:
- The Santa Ifigênia neighborhood in República, often called Crackland, the area delimited by R. Mauá in the North, R. São João in the South, Av. Duque de Caxias in the West and Av. Ipiranga in the East. It is okay to walk in the commercial, crowded streets (like R. Santa Ifigênia), but the empty and run-down streets should be avoided as they are home to a large number of drug addicts.
- Pq. Dom Pedro II and most of its surroundings. This area also contains many drug addicts, and potentially violent robbers that stalk pedestrians. If you want to reach Catavento Cultural (Palácio das Indústrias), a safer route is to go from Mercado Municipal to the rear entrance of the palace, passing through the 25 de Março parking lot.
- The surroundings of R. Glicério, in the east part of the Liberdade district, form a desolated area with a large number of homeless.
With so many skyscrapers, the Old Town may look a densely populated area, when in fact, it is not. The center of town is alive during week days because of offices and shops. During the night and Sundays, there is still some life in certain parts, like the bars/clubbing area between Largo do Arouche and Pç. da República, but many streets may also become desolate, containing few people other than homeless and drug addicts. The "Crackland" should be completely avoided during the night unless you are in a trustworthy guided tour.
For the rest of Downtown, follow the general advice for São Paulo.
Cope
[edit | edit source]English-speaking churches
[edit | edit source]Near Bela Vista, Liberdade and Paraíso, the Fellowship Community church caters to English speakers in the morning and services are spoken in Portuguese in the evening. Calvary Baptist church in Campo Belo features services in American English and Saint Paul's Anglican in Alto da Boa Vista, in British English.