Then tried to find some breaky, harder than it sounds in india. Frist place wasn't ready to serve anyone. Found a curry place for me, was tastey. But didn't realise it only did curries till we order. then went to another place to get kay soem,thing to eat, good taost apparently.

we had planned to meet Cassy and olly at half eleven at thier school for lunch, so finished packing, said bye and headed off. Was interesting walking around the school lots of smiling faces but people almost seemed intimidated, could have been the bags. School was very basic but people looked happy.

went for lunch at a little bakery, was nice but way too sweet cream in the choclate eclairs. We both decided neither of us massive fans of olly, thinks he knows everything about everything and makes it up if he doesn't. tried to expalina a kebab to us as this new thing you should try. Was stil quite nice tho

Left them and went to the post office to post the parcel. Never have I been son confued. Lots of forms to fill in, them stick them to differnt places using glue in a pot with a pen for the spreader. Turned into about 6 trips to the counter, each time getting pushed in front off, and a few different people translating or helping. Got it sent, only problem was the postcode is L56 2DD on the offical document!

Bus to Kochi, uneventful but went quick, 2 hours. Didn't have a clue where we where when got off, Kochi is split over 4 or 5 different bits of land separated by the sea. On the way in we saw a subway so decided to head there, sandwhiches are yum! Kay was litterally kissing hers as she was eating it. Expensive but worth it, both been craving western foods. Baked beans is the current faze!

From here found out could get a local bus to the area we wanted. Man alive! First one was absolutly packed, we realised men and women used different doors (front and back) and it left while we wwere in a panic about what to do. next one came and pushed our way in. I got really worried couse didn't see kay for like 5 mins and we hadn't made plans if we got separated. So relived when saw a white arm grab a handle! There were prob twice, or more, as many people stood as sat. And when ou have two backpacks on your not the favourite person onboard. the conductor was shouting and pushing me but was never sure why. Got speaking to some one, his face about 5cm from my armpit, and it turned out was because was traveling to the terminus wanted me awat from the door. t felt the most adventurous thing we had down. It was swaety, chlostrophobic, strssful, scary and all it was was a 25min bus ride. we got reunited towards the middle of the bus and spent a while swopping stories, both had simular experiences.

Have sen a crazy amount of westerners since arriving in our area (Fort Cochi) would sa twice as many in one evening as have done the whole trip, all traavelers. 2 londers, 1 belgian in the hotel a quite a few walking abuot. A nice change. and only paying 250Rps a night here!

Had a wander, loads of cool looking shops, doing them tomorrow, buth rang home and I got a little bite to eat. Both really like here already, gonna be here a while. On the walk someone tried to sell us drugs, the guy didn't look like a dealer tho. even told him so, twice!

A game of cards now bed imte, Night x

once we got up realised that cieling leaked, we had 2 drips in both the bathroom and bedroom and water running down one of the walls. Turned out that every item of my clothes got soaked which is always nice, kinda. At least there is a drying rack. (Update from day 26: As it was so bloody humib down there is never properally dried in 5 days!)

got breakfast at some art cafe, really cool art based on saftey pins, wicked food to. Loads of fresh fruint and 2 chunks of eggy vbread. Beautiful :)

We for a lovely wander around, loads of nice shops. Not too much getting pursauded into shops either, nice. We seemed to buy loads in this one shop. I got a big cloth with the ohm sign all over it and a little toy AutoRik and kay got a lovely little bnag after breaking her old one. Is a realy cool place.

Got the bus back to the main land, much more less stressful this time :) Got off at Jois junction, there seems to be lots of Jos things here, prononced the same to! got something to eat then headed to the train station to book train tickets up to Agra. Wasn't too hard. Only had to queue up 4 times and fill in one form. Expensive tho, 6 times the price of our accom. here. After getting that sorted out got an auto to Braodway. Can tell we are getting more used to here as we managed to half his asking price. Broadway was meant to be the shopping area. IUt was full of tack but quite interesting, more local shops.

Got stuck in Market, sure it only had one way in. Kept thinking we found an exit for it to be blocked up with a mound of rotting rubbish, cages of chickens or an open sewer. And the whole place smelt of last weeks fish according to Kay. It really did!

Walked to the boat jetty via and icec4am + slush bar. Yummy! Kay got a nutella sandwhich. Ordered two more but they had run out, gutted! Got the ferry back, cheaper than bus.

On the walk home both bought some new necklaces from a stall. It started chucking it down, everyone ran for cover, we just carried on walking enjoying it. Fun.

I went to type this thing up and came back then Join Kay and the 2 londoners (Mickey and jack) at a table. BOth really nice chilled out people, Mickey especially. Been traveling for about 9 months and internet gambles to make money. He is planing on buying a return ticket as expects to hate england when he gets back. Spent the evening us 4 and 2 bottles of rum. Lovely!

We went for breakfast at a place called Teapot Teapot as we heard they had baked beans. God they were good! had eggs, beans toast, tomatoes (usually horrid but these were lush), bowl of fruit and a cup of coffee. A wicked breakfast. The place was quite odd, could easily have been in Cornwall or wales. We had a saucer with Henry the 8th on it1

Come back had a blod and a game o cards then off to lunch. Again lovely food, Kay got chicken and chips and i got a Keralan curry and breads. Were both humming with satistfaction at most bites. kay realsied she missed meat as this was the est she had eaten since arriving. During the meal I suddenly realised that most indian men wear skirts, dont know why it happened then as prob see hundreds a day! For pud got a custards pudding a kay chocolate one. They were just sauces, beautiful.. We began to feel sick but carried on eating as they were so good!

Again back for a blob. Infact thaqt all we have don today its been nice, eating and blobbing.

We did go for a walk about the area. Went in a really expensive shop. I went to watch the sea and go for a strool with iPod. Just as i got furthest away from any shelter then monsoon hit, big time. I was soaked, was like had jumped in a pool. Fort Kocki just seemed to close in a matter of seconds and ther streets cleared. Was nice just walking and not really caring, just a little about Ipod and camera (they survived, camera only just) Got home and left everything out to dry, includeding my money!

Had tea with Jack and Mickey just up the road, enjoyed by all. Then came back and were shown the joys of shithead. Played till Kay lost, it took a while. Shes good!

We decided that another sesion at teapot Teapot was in order, go a breakfast and a half each as they were so good! Then cinamon toast is lovely.Spent the morning having a bit of a chillax and then headed to a place called Mattancherry about 3 km away. GOt dropped off at some dutch/mattancherry Palace/museum. It was a bit shitty but some quite good murials, good builiding and someone drawing an amzing picture. Def worth the 2p to get in1

From there hd a wander around lots of shops all selling the same thing. Antiques and jewlerry. All nice but a few that stood out, especially ones that didn't have people stood outside persauding you in.

One was lovely, lots of really cool old stuff, all bloody expensive tho but if was loaded would have bought loads. Then there was one that a whole snake boat was in, a rowing race boat that aout 70 poepl row in. Just near that was one that had the world biggest Varpu, an ornate vcooking pot basically bt was impressive. It was like the shops were having a ' who could buyt the biggest and best thing' off. I would say the boat won. (its redicualus, its now tomorrow if that makes sense! and i am writing this by candle light as it is a powercut. Mean ts bloody boiling as the fans are off, it would be dark and todays rain has just started. Its a crazy country but i love it:) )kept going around the shops. II bought a budha head and kay a headscarf hen realised there wasn't much elsew to do so got an autorik back. Kay read in the room and I went for a walk and to watch the sea. Was really nice, really replaxing. Some cute dog latched onto me, slowly lieing closer and closer. Eventually giving my a good sniff. When i got up he follow me for about 100m. Was gonna buy it some food but it got bored following before i got to a place.

Ate ate t a street stall, omlette and some lovely potatoe balls. Then to a cafe for some special tea (a beer served in Mugs and teapots. We think to avoid tax!) and to bed :)

Got a knock on the door at 6:00 to wake us up, felt early, to go watch elephants being washed!

Was really odd our driver dropped us off about an hour and a half away and told us to walk down some path. It lead to a river where two guys were washing and a man was washing his ike (very thouroughly i might add, using a bar of soap.) We just sat watching and waiting for something, weren't sure what, a person telling us where to go or elephants. Once the bike was shiny and out the water and elephant walked down the path, surreal even tho we were expecting it. Next thing wqe know 4 more did, 2 small ones and one absolutly huge! About the size of two people stood on top of one another. The men hanling them were brutal! It really wasn't nice. If one didn't do as told, prob a choice of about 15/20 verbal commands it would get whipped with a big stick,. hard. Notnice to watch. But it was quite impressive a man telling an elephant to lie down on a cirtain side and it would. They cuould be told to lie down on cirtain sides, spin round to get splashed, move cirtain feet to cirtain places, move there legs so that the person cleaning could reach different parts ( toes, backs of knees etc.) It was amazing but way way to brutal for me, got offered if we wanted to scrub them (with a coconut) but it didn't feel quite right. Worst thing was watching them flintch when they were threatened to get hit, they loked genuinly scared, it was horrid. Mostly they looked like they were enjoying an hour and a half of being pampered but was never sure. Apparently this happenes everyday! (Note: Way to stop a train elephant. Rest a stick on its front toes and it wont move those feet.)

When we were leaving the man tried to make us pay 75Rps cause we had been taking pictures. We (Jack came to) refused and after about 5 mins and lots of dirty looks we set off back home. Saw the guy again on the way back, a very dirty look was sent our way. Skanky bastards, would have only been going in his pocket. SAid he was from the foreest commision but we weren't in a forest.

We went o different places for breakfast/lunch. Kay back to teapot teapot but i wanted an indian. Best place was 2km away so got a free ricksaw, had to go in two shops so the driver got commision rather than me payin for him, only like 2/3 mins each time and didn't have to buy anthing :) Food was nice and only 25RPS FOR A Thali, all you can eat curry thing, and 2 chais, teas one for me one for the driver. Was yum.

Came back and had a few games of shithead with the guy who worked in the hotel then went to find kay, found her in an internet cafe. Went for a drink with Micky at a restaurant and some kids came and sold us some terapins, we bought two! had a bit of fun racing them etc. then set them free back in the sewers. It looked ming but that was where a few people told us where they were from.

Later on we all (Jack and micky) went for a stroll along the waers edge, again the sunday family day so was packed. Very nice, all had tea. Then bought a bottle of rum and some coke and sat playing cards. Sleepy time for me tho :) x

I went for a final walk before our mamouth train journey leter. While I was taking a video of one of the chinese fishing nets in action was motined over to get a closer look. there things are huge nets that work on a cantilever system, using 5 people to pull them up. Basically a big, 15m x 15m, is lowered into the water, left for 5 mins, pulled back up, fish removed then repeated all day. Was a suprising amount of fish each time saying the amount of and freuency the nets were used. Helped do it about 8 times, my hands are still sore from it10 hours lter. The people woho worked on them everyday hands were, excuse my frenh, fucked. I have never seen such hard skin, looked b\about a cm thick. Some couldn't realy bend there fingers. Anyhow sat and had a chai (tea) wit hthe team (two americans had joined in. Spoken to them a few times since being here. We had got to know all the tourists and a few of the local by name!) then went for breakfast.

Cashis with the four of us, very nice eggy bread agin. Back to the hotel, found ut was a ferry leaving in 5 mins. So quickly said our goodbyes nd a quick dash to the port. a trip to minus 24, subway then to the train station.

Managed to find the right seats in the right carrage one the right train with ease but only to find 2 men sleeping on the bottom bunks, our seats! The train is basic but comfortable and uite exciting. Is reqlly fun hanging our of the door. Is an odd thought thinking we will be one here for 2 sleeps. About 4 hours in but still all good :) I am quite excitd to be moving on fro Fort Cochi, it was lovely but we were almost there a day too long, lots of finidng things to do. Kinda a place could see people retiring to.

Right just got into bed, with me lay down writing this would say there is 10cm about me to the next bed, and my legs to my ankles are hanging off the end! Hopefully an alrighty nights sleep tho, hoping the nearby (cute) baby will stay quite!

Half way through and already seen to have done shit loads. seen so much. Smelt so much. Heard so much.. Cant really belive we have got it all to do again but this time in the north. We seem to have perfectly planned to spend today neither in the north or south but bombing around (not up as you would expect) the contry on the train.

Woke up after a suprsingly good sleep, didn't wake up once. Even woke up with all our bags :0 Mickey told us of an outbreak of people drugging and stealing a whole carrages stuff, hapened 3 times in the last 2 weeks! Kay felt a bit of motion sickness during the night but all is hunky dorry now :)

When we stopped at our first station of the day, Vijayawara, looked it up on the map to see hwere we were. Completely different to where we expected, back on the east coast just about chenni. No wonder it take 43 hours!

We have basically spent the day eating and drinking lots of little things. Someone alks past with a different snack every 15mins or so. Lots of chai. I had a walk throgh the kitchen car, pantry as its known, and it just a noraml carrage but its seats are fuill of nions and pots. The pots are huge about a meter diameter and 80cm high. I though the ones used at woodie camps were bg, nothing in comparison.

Is good being on the train, the view changes about every 5 mins, better than the backwaters! India seems bloody falt, but beautiful. Some times loks as if it could be england but only for a second til you real its stupidly hot. Is still really fun hanging out the door, simular to being stood on the back of the jeep, the wind has given my a lovely hair stlye! ha ha

feels normal being on here now, got passed the point of wanting to get off nd just started to ewnjoy it. Not really spoken to the people aoround us but at least they dont stare!

Woke up after another alrights nights sleep. Cleaned our teeth which felt nice after not doing them yesterday. Too lazy to get the stuff out of the bag ha ha. Queued fir absolutly ages to get in the toilet, took abot 15 mins and was noly one person infront of me. Morning rituals take a while over here, lots of spitting. People clean their toungue with a wire and it sounds like they are trying to make themselve sick, yum!

Breakfast arrived, omlette sandwhichs, then a game of cards and all of a sudden it was time to get off. Much quicker than we expected. On the platform there were loads of kids begging with smily faces drawn on them, very cute but in a sad way.

Got a ricksaw to our hotel and wwent to the roof top for breakfast/lunch atuff. Got a wondeful view of the Taj. Its bloody impressive but smaller than I expected it to be, saying that not been close to it yet. Had our pancakes and eggs then went down fora blob, sitting on a train for two days tires you out. And think not used to the shear heat yet and the less humidity, its sweaty! Rang home then went for a walk.

Rickshaw (mainly cycle) surroound you and follow you like flies around shit here. At one point we had 4 following us try to get us to it in it. We didnt want to but got the price to drop from 60Rps to 5Rps without showing any interest~

After a walk had a sesion on the web then ta. We decided to walk around and try to get the price of a rickshaw to drop for us again. Instead we got stuck in a pedestrian market area, literally didnt how we got in or how to gget out. Got turned around twice due to closed roads. Very busy, village felling place. Almost like we were intruding. Monkeys jumping over head which was nice. Managed to get a cyclerik to pizzahut YUM Now back and bed time

ps. The Taj has a grat silouhtte :)

OH! Also got a cut throat shave on our walk by some fat, manky toothed gut with a stratigically placed hole in his t shirt to expose his belly button. Quite a scary experience but did a good job. Ended with a head massage, flet like losing a fight with the nuggy champion. It hurt and he kept hitting me. Kay got the giggle, which then passed onto me. an unusual experince, fun tho!

Walked home via some cheap breakfast after the Taj costing aout 2 days budget! Planned an autorick to pick us up at 10 for the day.

First went to a place nick-named the baby Taj. It to is a momument to someones dead wife and was made before th bigone. Much more delicate artwork, prettier but it being small made it less impressive. The Taj Mahal is just a big rip off really, fully just " Well your wife has one, so im gonna give mine one but 10 times bigger! So there!"

Began to see to many simular old white building so spend most of our time at the baby taj watchinh a heard of water buffalo doing there thing in the river behind. They sound like creaky doors and floor boards.

From here went to Agra fort which then turned into a palace. Impressive but more white old buildings and the heat was beginning to get to us, 42/43 degrees, bloody hot!

GOtsome lunch, expensive but tastey, then went to a carpet factory. Couldn't belive how long it take to makejust one, for a decent sized rug 9-12 months! Watched 3 guys working on one, they were bloody quick and then could do about 2 cm ona good day! Kay did a few knots so somewhere soon there will bea carpet ala Kay! After aabouta year of knotting, 6 hours of cleaning, 3 sets of trimming (just with scissors) then a final tidy up. Alot of work. Of course the guy tried to sell us some over a free chai but they were all well aboutour budget~

Then a marble and crappy jewlerry shop and back to pack before our night bus. Kay got her hands Heenaered at a womans house, very pretty :)

The bus set off at 6:30 but had to be there at 6:00 it was hot and began to get very uncomfortable in it, i could cope. We all had to get one the bus 5 mins before we set off. Our place was a double bed hanging about a meter from the roof right at the back of th bus above some seats. I could easily say this was the hottst I have ever een. It was horrid. Like a sauna but for an hour fully clothed with no escape. Body felt like it was shutting down. Once we set off it was better but not by much. I could do anything but fall asleep, harder than it sounds, and woke up 2 hours later dripping in a wet bed. Yum

Indian roads are shit, full of bump and pot holes, and us being at the back of the us meant we felt them all to full effect. Sometimes literally leaving the bed by about 15cm. This meant that you couldn't sit up as the only thing that stopped youflying further up was your head hitting the roof, hard. And itwas hard to sleep, was always very concious of the 5 foot drop to my side. I was lucky I eventually managed to sleep but Kay couldn't caose of the earthquake like ride. We expect to get to Udaipur 6:30/7:00 so being 4 hours late really dragged. It was exhausting butfinally arrived at 10:30! 16 hours bad times but funny experiences!

On the way to food we both spotted clothes we like so went for a little shopping session on the way back. I got a shirt and kay a dress, both pretty. Also got a pair of shorts made a bit smaller so they fit. Once back Kay had another sleep to catch up on not getting any from the bus. I went and got usful things done, pick up the trouser we got saved, another pair of shorts made small and some trousers fixed and just a general miander.

Went for tea, lovely lasagne and not it half ten all of a sudden! Night!

Food was nice, dead good menu, and kay got a marmite fix so a double marmite day! I got a lovely fruit pancake.

Walking home did quite a good cloths shop, seem to keep going back the the same shop and buying more. Between us have got; a shirt, 2 trousers, and 2 dresses all very nice and in the 'Im a westerner and in india hippyish style!' Oh and have got a tshirt today and Kay got 2 camel leather books, watch the guy make one overa chai. Good shopping day.

Then went to the palace museum, lots of old things (loads of turdans) in a restored old building. Was only 25Rps, so felt cheap compared to Agra! Was a litle art gallery in it, wasdisgustig people had written their names on top of the work on nearly every piece. Bastards!

Kay started tranfering her dairy and I went to do usful jobs (shirt made smaller, get money out etc) and to go to the goverment museum as our book said it had ' a freaky monkey holding a lantern' It bloody did/ It was the worst taxidermy I have ever seen. Tigers, monkeys, calves, snake but Ireckon I couldhave done a better job of them blindfolded. Made me chuckle any how! 3Rps well spent! Got really lost in back streets for about 20 mins but manage to get out just where wanted so good times, scary dogs tho.

Lunch time, v late 4ish, both had really tasty meals. I prob had the best curry so far and kay a lovely toasty. Man who owned it was nice to. Lotus cafe if your ever in Udaipur! Then all of asudden it was half seven and we went to watch Octopussy at a restaurant. Its played everywhere, everynight as some of it was filmed here. What a bloody awful film! Nice beer tho :)

Bed time now before our 8:00 bus to Mt. Abu

Once we got in the bus was already 2 poeple in the cabin. Not too bad as there waqs a bench for 3 and a seat for one and a half squashed behind the drivers seat with no leg room. Quite comfy then 2 more people came in! They shared the seat behind the driver and I sat crossed legged on top of the engine on a little platform. Had the worst pins and needles of my life but enjoyed it. I was further forward than the driver so didn't really feel like was on a bus but more at an Imax about the ragistan country side for 7 hours. Beautiful :0

During the journey made friends with 2 f the french people, Antoine and CLemantine, both very nice and we both decided they were very pretty. Turned out we were all heading to the same hotel, Shri Ganesh, not suprising really as both books were obsessed with it. And there tour consist of 15 people who have never met or been to india before and one has an 'Inde Du Nord' lonely planet!

Had a little blob then walked to a place called sunset point was busy due to it being a sunday. We got there two hurs early so hd a giggle at people walking down stairs funny and getting people to stop taking pictures of us! A woman at lunch asked if she could have her piture taken with us, then walking to sunset point a group of ads wanted a pictue with kay. Quite fun to begin with but began to get tiring quickly especially when the piss taky giggles started from them. We sat on a rock and groups of men would stop and crane there necks to see us, aminly Kay, between the trees, then ask for 'One photo?' We went for a Chai at one point and got surrounded by about 20 men nearly all asking for a picture. Got very intimidating especially when saying no meant they asked again. Eventually the crowd dispursed and got speaking to someone. Turns out its Gujarati tourist who dont get many western tourist to their state but we decided its cause Kay was the Gujarati number one hotty!

The sunset was disapoiting really, it just kinda plopped behind a cloud. On the way back went via the 'English Wine shop' to get a bottle of rum and a bottle of whiskey, only like 1.20 for both!

Once we were back a little girl decided to0 comea nd be our friends. She was a nutter, so much energy but funny. She had fun putting on our shoes then running around. Cute pictures.

Spent the rest of the evening playing shithead with Antoine and Julian (another french person if you couldn't tell by the names!) was good fun and got quite drunk by half 2. A very nice night :)

I had a really real dream about driving a motor bike up and down the mountain, which almost felt like flying. Took this as an oman and want and got a bike delivered to the hotel as thought this would be a good first place to learn and have been toying wt\ith the idea for a while. And the dream made it look fun! The guy didn't even ask if I had done it before never mind a liscence! Went out and had a wobbly praqctise on the road to sunset point as its a dead end and its not used to the evening. Much easier than I expected once your moving, but going really slow is the only hard bit casue you dont have any balance.

Once had built up the skill and courage let my self loose on the roads. Found my self unneccessaryily beeping in the indian way but soon got the hang of it and found my self overtaking and avoiding cars, cows, people and anything else that got oin the way or was going too slow. After 2 tris out felt safe enough to get kay on the back and start the day. It felyt normat, normal safe and exciting.

We headed off to a temple about 5km, it really didn't help that we couldnt read any signs and our map decided not to include loads of junctions but we got there after a few wrong turns, asking a lot of people and following our nose.

It was halfd way up a mountain, 450 steps up. About half way up a family started staring and watching lots but it worked in our favour, we were takuing under there wing for the temple. were ringing bells and eating holy fudgy things that other wise wouldn't of been doing. They even gave us bindi spots that felt quite special. Didnt feel like tits walking around with them on as knew they were a gift. They were akl touchy feely but in a nice way. took a picture of us all, got their adress and said our goodbyes.

Now on to a jainist temple a few kilo0meters further away again. Weren't allowed to take in leather, cameras or menstrating women! The marble carvings were amzing, apparently the stone workers got paid by how much dust they made and collected rather than per day. Beautiful peaceful place.

From here followed our nose going out into the country side along small roads, amazing scenery. Stumbled upon a wildlife park and went in their, opnly a quid so cheap :0 Tranquil but only saw a watewr snake and a group of monkeys, its looked like jurassic park. Posed for some photos with some Gujaratis and followed our nose till we found food. A place where you could get fried brain as one of the 4 things on the menu! During eating Kay developed a crush for the Rajistani police in Turbans, the sexist things she as ever seen apparently! Decided the bike was a wicked iidea :)

We went to a few more views and sights, at one point our little bike couldnt make it up a hill we came down so kay had to get off and walk for a abit! Then we decided to head down the mountain after eating some cake and getting our bus tickets for tomrrow. It was amzing, better than my dream had made it look and feel. Probably the most amzing veiw I have ever seen. Mile of lush green mountiain, decided it was better than the Taj anyday.

Went off a small side street leading to a village and sat and watched a group of monkeys doing their things, cute babies grabiong on stomachs. Ha da worry that the bike didn't start for a while but got it sorted then gave a village mana life to the temple. Carried on all 30km to the bottom still in awe of the view and what we were doing.

Onced we were there turned around to go back up but got waved down by the olice (no turndanned police tho :( ), shit! "No Helmet, No Entry", bigger shit as we only had one! Turned out only OI ineed to wear one as was driving but could have been a bugger. Turned out more dangerous wearing it cause it was huge and kept falling over my eyes so couldn't see!

Managed to get back up and to the hotel really quickly, too quickly. I went on the web then back for food and bed after a brilliant day. I want a bike now!

By the time we had out ticket sorted, eaten and put our bags at the station it was 5:15 and the fort closed at 5:00 bugger!

Went for a walk around and quite quickly decided dont like it here, too busy with shops selling nothing and the air feels thick with polution.

Did go round a temple with very pretty murials tho. Went down a few back streets, well got a bit lost in them, and bumped into a big group of kids. Los of handshakes and holding hangds. At one point had 5 on one hand while walking along, felt like pied piper.

Decided that an hour adn a half was enough so went to aqn internet cafe to look at mopeds and insurance, with absolutly no luck at all, for something to do.

We are now sat in a cafe waiting for 11:115 when our train leaves after decided the stares were too intense at the station. And its comfier on a seat rather thana kerb for 4 hours. Jodphur, bad!

On ythe train was sharinga cabin with an indian couple na d aGerman, spoke for a little bit but mainly just straight to bed.

Before we got on the train someone offered us a rom in Jaisalmer for 100Rps (1.25) with A/C and a free ick up - sounded a bit too goot to be true but decided to take it.

Got into Jaislamer at 7 after what felt like not enough sleep and waiting out side our cabin was our hotel man, straight in the car and away we go. Bloody looks like the desert, lots of sand and sace.

The room is huge, we're not sure when the catch is gonna come but still not yet :)

Gave Kay her B'day present and headed up for breakfast, tastey. The hotel owner even offered us some opium from the table next to us in a very casual way! Over breakfast started talking about the caeml safaris saying it was a shame we couldn'ty go today for kays birthday and all of a sudden we had a 3 day camel treek booked for 12:00 today, nice :)

Went into town to change Kays travelers cheques at a little motor bike hire place./ The man was ace, very excited that ut was Kays birthday. Ended up sat in there for about half an hour just talking, said we would go and buy a cake then come back.

Kay seemed to get a birthday discount on everything, hats free sweets and even a little mobile bag from a ashop we didn't even go in! Wa;ling about had our picture taking with a Baba (google them!) and found a backery. The cake got very 'pimped up' with signs, umbrellasm icing writing, party hats and the like, another nice man. People in Jaislemer seem ot be as nice as the people from the south, a good change from Jodphur. Bought hats for the camel trip then headed back to the guy in the bike shop. We all sat about eating the cake, the group and grown to include people from surrounding shops, very nice. Did the indian thing of kay getting fed bits of sickly, ice cold (as it was frozen) cake. A dutch personcame to buy some cigs form the shop we offered him a piece to, he looked really confused but accepted. It turned out it was his birthday to! Think mr shop man (Mr Dinesh) threw his hands in the air to this!

During this time I had a go on a manual bike rather than automatic, bloody scary. Felt like was doing a wheely every time I oressed something or moved. Got the shakes. Said our goodbye after saying we would go for a meal with him once we were back fomr the camels.

Back to the hotel packed for the camels - long sleves and toilet paper. Then got picked up at 12:00 driven into the middle of know where and given a camel each. They are big ugly creatures athat aways look awkward. Odd back legs, horrid teeth and farty! Fun then they stand up.

From the road went to a little desert hut about 45 mins away and our guides cooked for us, fresh chapatiia and curry all cooked on a frie. Then what seemed like a really long wait to avoid the worst of the heat, entertained some kids with iPods and camers. Walked to go and see LITTLE VILLAGE (2 HOUSES) AND SAT IN SOMEONES FRONT BIT SURTROUNDED BY THE WHOLE FAMIly (opps caps!)and their sheep and goats, two very small goats, kitten sized, and had a chai.

Then headed off to asome sanddunes, Kays managed to get into a nice trot while mine just plodded along at the back no matter how much I clicked my tougue,as we were told, or swore at the bloody thing telling it to do something useful. Turned out had to kick it!

The sand dunes are brilliant fantastic sand and lots of it. This is our place to sleep for the night just on top of a dune. Got tea made for us again, very very very slowly it felt then up to bed. After avoiding all the dung beetles collecting camel shit, odd things they are!

The two columbians left, forgot to mention them yesterday but both came pretty much just to sleep. And joining us for breakfast and the next two days was 2 female isralias (BOth traveling separatly but together at the moment), a janaese man, and 2 girls from the uk. Breakfast was omlette sandwhich and jam toast.

Plodding along for a few hours, just until the sun got too hot and our legs all began to start hurting. Brilliant scenery, I dont understand why so many people seem to live here tho. Its hot, sandy and windy. Stopped for lunch at a little pondy thing surrounded by sheeps, goats, cows, camels and their herders. Loads of them. Sat under a tree and had a veg (we think cuccumber!) curry and fresh chapattis, very tastey. Has been nice having the company of the others. Then once it had cooled down (4ish) headed off for the afternoon, gtting a bit more used to my camel (chitchin) but still never really does as he is told.

Stopped for the night on some more sanddune, maybe prettier than last nights, and had a good chat. Utah (the japanese) had a drum with him so that was nice. Good food, good chai, then bed. It doesn't get as dark as you exzpect, he moon is too bright.

Sand is bloody tiring to walk in, even in the morning coolness, big sweaty time going for a bush tukka poo!

After some srambled eggs and toast headed off for our morning trip, all beginning to dred it really. The sand, heat and boiling hot water had got to us all. There is no way of gtting refreshed or the sand off you. And we were expecting it to hurt agin.

We headed back to where me and kay had lunch on the first day. Via a few little villages. Have been spending the whole trip going through lots of them. Nice at the beginning but the constant begging is annoying or the interest to see what is in your bag. Even had a mum going into my pockets only to find a buisness card.

Had quite an intense group of boys at the last one, all being nice but a bit to nice. Los of counting to ten, writing my nme across knuckles like a tattoo, even invented a verison of slaps (one kid was really good, i tihkn the heat had got to me tho!) but then also lots of begging. A crazy place to live but every one sems hapy. Sometimes the kids are a bit odd, one the first night one crawled up to us over the sanddune in the darkness in a dress to big fo her, I abit ghost like.

We began to feel we had had enough of the camels so all decided to get picked up at 2 not 5. Was just us 3 (Us + driver) going to the desert but coming back there was nine of us, us 7 + driver + Baa (our camel driver). A thigh fit but good fun with music blasting out. Once we were back in the room realised we didn't know everyones names, never did an introduction!

Had a bit of an arguesment with Mr Hotel, everyone paid 750 Rps per day but we paid 850 for some eason. Still not resolved but got to the point of swearing at each other so i walked offf, gonna get it some how tho. Still thinking of ways. If not were joking saying might leave a poo in the bed!

Went for tea with Mr DInesh at a near by restaurant, think we all had dead good food. Was interesting talking about marriages and what he plans to do with his kids (5 of them, 4 youngest 17 oldest) Very pleasant. Have been invited to his house tomorrow as his brother is havinga function, not sure what abou tho!

The room is bloody hot, lots of sweating tonight I think.

Then went up te fort and had a wander arpund the samll streets and backalleys, sleepy place. And sopme more food and drink, cant seem to get enough water here, its just too bloody hot. Got my shoes fixed again so now they are a right odd job little set of shoes, 6 different repairs all very crude! 2 are big patches and the others are holding my shoes together.

Then tried to go for a drive to a village but after five mins realised it even too hot to sit on a bike so gave up. Now back at the hotel.

After a blob hiding from the hat, realised we really didn't want to go to Jaipur as its Rajistans busiest and most polluted city, so we went and cancelled our tickets and instead organised a bus to AJer, 15km from Pushka where we want to go.

After a bit was time to go to Dineshs house for tea, on the way we bought some sweets, as he requested, made from milk and sugar. His house is in a quite weathy village 10km from Jaisalmer. His house was big, in the middle a big open courtyart with about 4 rooms leading off from it. The 5 kids and mum slept in the courtyard and dinesh and his wife slept on the roof.

Akward t begin with but got ok, very smiley family. We (Me, Kay, Dinesh and oldest son) ate rice,Dahl, ocra, chappitti, sweet chapitti on the floor while the rest of the family watches. Quite od, especially when we found out the rest of the family wont eat tonight sd we ate there food. No one seemed to mind tho part from us.

After eating, me pretty much force feed until it was all gone, Kay got whisked away by wifr and daughters and Me and DInesh went to the roof and had a manly chat about min and Kays apparent up and coming wedding!

In the mean Kay has put on, or been put in, the Sari and all jewlerry worn by dineshs wife at their wedding. Lots of gigles and photos in different poses. Then we drove home kay with 2 (tacky) bangles. a jar of nail varnish and a gold necklace and me ith a turban as gifts. All of a sudden felt guilty for only buying 500g of sweets rather thana Kg.

As soon as we got back I began to fel a bit dodgey, slowly go worse then was sick :( Spicy sick os horrid! Have a feeling it was one of the milk sweets as it didn't feel right eating it but coudnt leave it.

Packed slowly and headed to an interne cafe, failed to get throught to mum again.

We got a lift to the bus from one of dineshs friends. we have seen him a few times. A while ago asked me if we were a couple, on haring my answer hew said " Oh ok ten, we make very good friends, she look very nice"

We had to get on the back of his bike separatly cause of our bags. I went first then Kay, both got a bit worried as he went via loads of back alleys but all was ok. He asked kay if she was mad at him cause she wasn't hugging him to hold on. Slightly odd but harmless.

Posed for a few photos for him gave him email and phone numbers (I stupidly gave the right number but kay amde hers up, apparently kays numbr was still a very nice number tho)

Then on the bus, got seats instead of a bed this tim. Uneventful journey apart from Kay sleeping in odd positions and me loving MJ Cole!

Got to the hotel, one from a tout as is good and cheao, then crashed out. Comfy bed :) Woke and went and got some breakfast/lunch, good food all round. Then realised we still tired so went back for more sleep, bloody "sleeper"!

Set an aarm for about an hours time to go and get train tickets sorted for the rest if ir trip. Was no way of waking kay an had a convo (turned out while she was still asleep) and I went off back to Ajmer yto sort our tickets. All ok apart from have to go back to Agra to change to a bus on the ay to Mathura and the are NO seat/beds on any trains to Chennai when we need them. SHIT! Bugger knows what is gonna happen, he said something about 5 days so gonna try and book again 5 days before we want to go. If not we will have about 1500Km as the crow flies to do in 5 days by bus!

Just before got off the bus home started raining so sat and had a chai unbder cover for it to stop. Walked back along roads with water up to my askles, a refreshing change for Jaisalmer.

Went and got some food via a ghat wher some fake priest 'blessed' us in the holy water of the lake. They kept saying "Money is nothing, good karma is the way" then woudn't let us leave without a 'donation' and got pissed when only left 9Rps in a charity box. After some more yummy food, walked back through town. A cool place, dead good shopping and vibe. Good mix of religion and tourist. Ended up both buying quite a bit in like 10 mins. Had a gigge at 2 travelers dancing at what looked like too much Bhang Lassi (Weed milkshake). hen got completely and utterly lost trying to find the hotel. Why cant indians just say " Idont know" rather than send us the oposite direction! Ended up paying a man on a bike to bring us back. Had fun singing him Happy birthday and Shakira Shakira. Bit of an asnklet making sesh now bed :)

Third page now! Here we go > http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/User:JossDude/India3