Arranmore

Árainn Mhór or Arranmore is an island 5 km off the west coast of County Donegal. It's a Gaeltacht community where Irish is the official language (in its Ulster dialect) though English is universally understood. The population continues to decline, being 469 in 2016, and in 2019 the islanders wrote an open letter urging the people of Australia and the United States to relocate: "There are less people here than would fit in a couple of Amtrak carriages . . . " There wasn't much response so this threat to the viability of Amtrak has been averted.

An Chúlturlann the Community Centre has visitor information. It's next to the Holiday Village, see Sleep.

54.9828-8.44181 Burtonport or Ailt an Chorráin is the mainland ferry pier. Local Link Bus 271 runs from Letterkenny via Glenveagh National Park and Dungloe to Burtonport 7 times a day, taking 1 hr 40 min. By road head for Dungloe then follow R259 / R260. Parking at the harbour is limited but free, and reasonably secure in such a small village. Burtonport has a pub and couple of eating places but no accommodation.

The two ferry companies have almost identical names but are better known as the Red and the Blue. (The subtle difference is the "Arranmore Ferry" is red and "The Arranmore Ferry" is blue; duh, or is it the other way round?) Fares are identical, but tickets are not transferable between Red and Blue. Off-peak you can just turn up and pay at the kiosk by the pier, but in summer you ought to book.

The ferries are small ro-ros carrying cars, trucks and foot passengers, with toilets and indoor and outdoor seating. They sail year-round: in summer departures are hourly. The crossing takes 20 min, threading the strait between Rutland Island (south) and Edernish and Inishcoo (north), then a short stretch crosses the open Atlantic.

54.9898-8.49682 Leabgarrow or An Leadhb Gharbh is the island ferry pier and main settlement.

The farthest points are 5 km from Leabgarrow, so an hour's walk will reach them. Your accommodation may offer a pick-up from the landing pier. The main reason to bring a car is for carrying stuff, especially if you're self-catering and need to bring a few days' supplies, or have baby items or sports gear. And it gets you out of the wind, rain and midges.

There's no island taxi or minibus service. The Community Centre may have bike hire.

• 55.0023-8.53611 Beaver Island Monument is in Lough Shore along the lane to the lighthouse, looking like an inundated sheep pen. It commemorates Beaver Island in Lake Michigan USA, some 15 km long by 5 km wide. This was already settled by Irish immigrants when a Mormon sect arrived in 1848, followers of James J Strang who feuded with the majority following Brigham Young, and with everyone else. Strang proclaimed himself king and ruled as an autocrat, but was murdered in 1856 and his sect were ousted. The island was then populated by Irish fishermen, many from Donegal, and became a Gaetacht community until 1900 when the lake was fished out and they dispersed.
• 55.0147-8.56042 Arranmore Lighthouse at the northwest point was built in 1798. It was decommissioned in 1832 but re-activated in 1859 and is still in use. It's automatic and the keepers' cottages have been converted to self-catering accommodation. Nearby is the shell of the former coastguard station, burnt out in the 1921 War of Independence. 500 m east is the EIRE 75 aviation marker, one of 82 set out during the Second World War to indicate to aircraft that this was the neutral Republic.
• Lighthouse Steps are a precipitous path down the cliffs, starting 200 m south of the lighthouse. Not for children, but the views are worth it if your nerve holds.
• 55.0173-8.54443 Giant's Reek is a great pyramidal sea-stack on the northwest coast.
• 54.98-8.5734 Green Island off the southwest tip is a wildlife reserve. Boat trips cruise by but landing is neither permitted nor feasible, as it's ringed by cliffs with no safe landing cove.
• Bird life everywhere includes Arctic and Great skua, chough, fulmar, gannet, kittiwake and shags.

• Walking: the trail around the island is 14 km, mostly firm track but allow 4 hours. It's way-marked as Arranmore Way / Slí Árainn Mhóir.
• Fishing: the freshwater lakes have Brown trout and Rainbow trout. Sea-angling yields cod, ling, conger eel, pollock, wrasse, skate, turbot and plaice, see boat operator below.
• Diving: you need to be self-sufficient, there are no support facilities such as gas. There are several secluded beaches where you can shore-dive, and Arranmore Charters run boat trips for divers, anglers and sight-seeing.
• Bike hire is available from Cumann na mBád by Leabgarrow pier.
• Rock climbing is on the sea cliffs of the west coast, more than a little adventurous, as devising access is half the fun.
• Practise your Irish: there are no courses, but any attempts to converse in Irish will be appreciated.

• Phil Bán's 200 m south of the pier is the island store, open M-Sa 9AM-5PM, Su 11:30AM-1:30PM. Phil's bar is next door.
• No banks or ATMs on Arranmore or at Burtonport, the nearest are in Dungloe.

• Boathouse Beach Bites 50 m south of the pier is open M-Th noon-7PM, F-Su noon-9PM.
• An Bolgan Beag cafe is half a mile south of the pier at Fallagowan F92 N2F7, open M-Th noon-6PM, F Sa noon-8PM.
• The Dock has rooms, see below.

• Early's Bar, Leabgarrow F92 HR67 (100 m west of pier), ☏ +353 74 952 0515. Daily noon-11PM. Friendly pub with decent food, often has live music. (updated Aug 2026)
• Phil Bán's Pub, Leabgarrow F92 PTY0 (200 m south of pier), ☏ +353 74 954 7795. Daily 11:30AM-11:30PM. Splendid trad pub, no food. (updated Aug 2026)
• Smuggler's, Leabgarrow F92 T889 (200 m north of pier), ☏ +353 87 938 0413. Nightly 10PM-3AM. Last thing you'd expect, a night club and disco in this remote spot. (updated Aug 2026)
• Neily's, Gortgarra F92 KVF8 (1 km south of Leabgarrow). Mon-Fri 2-11PM, Sat Sun 1-11PM. Charming country pub. (updated Aug 2026)

• Claire's B&B, Leabgarrow (50 m south of ferry pier), ☏ +353 74 952 0042. Friendly small guesthouse. (updated Aug 2026)
• The Dock is a guesthouse and cafe 100 m south of the pier at Leabgarrow F92 HTP6.
• Glen Hotel 100 m west of the ferry pier closed abruptly in 2025 and left guests stranded.
• 54.9823-8.51721 Arranmore Glamping, Ilion F92 X207, ☏ +353 87 908 1277. Splendid comfy pods with great views. Double pod €160.  (updated Aug 2026)

Mobile coverage on the island is sparse: as of Aug 2026, you might get 4G around the landing at Leabgarrow.

The road from Dungloe to Burtonport has 4G from Three and Vodafone, and 5G from Eir.

Back to Burtonport it must be.