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The Babuyan and Calayan Islands are a volcanic archipelago in the Babuyan Channel between northern Luzon and Batanes that belong to the province of Cagayan in northern Philippines. It it is comprised of five major islands, four of which (Babuyan, Calayan, Dalupiri, and Camiguin) are administered by the municipality of Calayan, while the island of Fuga is administratively part of Aparri.
Understand
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The islands are mostly of volcanic origin, and contain some of the country's active volcanoes. They have a rich history of human settlement even before the Spanish conquest, as seen by multiple archaeological excavations across the islands. Its inhabitants were repeatedly relocated to mainland Luzon due to difficulties in accessing them on account of the rough waters of the Babuyan Channel and its position along the Philippines' typhoon belt, only to return when the opportunity came. Even today, the islands are incredibly difficult to access, and facilities remain rudimentary compared to the mainland or even in the Batanes archipelago further north, but the islands' natural wonders are appreciated by those who prefer to see a minimal amount of fellow tourists.
The islands' residents are a mix of Ibanags, Ilocanos and Ivatans. They subsist on agriculture, with Calayan's name originating from a Ibanag term for a place to grow ginger while Babuyan literally means piggery, as well as fishing and catering to the occasional tourist brave enough to endure frequent power outages, expensive fuel imported from the mainland, and getting stranded when the seas are too rough seas for sailing. The area has also seen a lot of emigration, especially as there are no universities or college and mundane health conditions frequently become medical emergencies due to the lack of resources.
Get in
[edit | edit source]Transportation to the islands is incredibly disorganized. While there are airfields and airstrips on Calayan and Fuga Islands, due to low population and demand, these are restricted to military and charter flights, with the one in Fuga exclusively used by the company which bought the island in the 1970s. There are seasonal flights from Tuguegarao Airport to Calayan Airport operated by SkyPasada.
The only viable option is to join the residents in taking boats known as lampitaw in the mainland Cagayan port towns of Santa Ana (for Camiguin and Babuyan Islands), Aparri, and Claveria (the last two ports for the other main islands). Travel times take a minimum of 3 hours in fair weather, but can reach 12 hours in rough waters. Note that this journey is not for the faint-hearted; expect to see a rickety wooden boat rather than a leisurely cruise and share space with bulky cargo and even livestock. Be sure to take enough safety gear and identification with you in the event of an emergency. Always notify authorities in Calayan as well as in your port of entry of your travel plans.
- 1 Calayan Airport, Dadao, Calayan Island. Serves light and turboprop aircraft only.
- 2 Calayan Seaport, Magsidel, Calayan Island. The main maritime terminal for Calayan Island.
- 3 Fuga Island Airstrip.
Get around
[edit | edit source]There is no public transport in the islands and very little to no cars or any larger vehicle. Expect to ride motorcycles, tuktuks or the buggy known locally as kuliglig instead. To travel between islands, you will need to hire boats again; there is no organized boat transport. Expect the same conditions as getting into the islands. Even some destinations in the same island are only accessible by boat due to the lack of roads. Expect to pay thousands of pesos when renting a boat.
See
[edit | edit source]Babuyan Island
[edit | edit source]The furthest among the islands from mainland Luzon. It is a quiet place mostly subsisting on agriculture and fishing, and dominated by the Babuyan Claro Volcano at its center, with black sand beaches.
- 1 Smith Volcano. An almost cylindrical active volcano with a height of 688 metres (2,257 ft) that last erupted in 1917.
- 2 Babuyan Claro (Mount Pangasun). The other active volcano in Babuyan Island, it is an 843 metres (2,766 ft) massif that last erupted in 1924 and has two craters each measuring between 300–400 metres (980–1,310 ft).
Calayan Island
[edit | edit source]This is the islands' most populated and is also the political and economic hub. The most developed tourist attractions and infrastructure can be found here.
- 3 Kannaway Cave, Dilam. A coastal grotto with a natural pool, accessible only during low tide.
- 4 Bangaan Viewpoint, Dadao. An elevated lookout with views over the Babuyan Channel into neighboring islands. Nearby is a memorial the Philippine Navy vessel BRP Datu Kalantiaw which ran aground on the island during a typhoon in 1981 with the loss of 79 crew.
- 5 Nagudungan Hills, Dadao. A hilly promontory jutting southwards and ringed by high and rocky cliffs. There is a lighthouse on the site.
- 6 Sibang Cove, Dadao. A white-sand beach.
- 7 Lussok Cave, Magsidel. Another coastal grotto with a natural pool and rock formations.
- 8 Layag Beach, Dilam. A white-sand beach on the northern side of Calayan Island.
- 9 Dipari. An uninhabited islet off the northern coast of Calayan Island visited by game-fishers.
- 10 Bataraw Falls, Magsidel. A 30 feet (9.1 m) cascade.
- 11 Saint Bartholomew Parish Church (Calayan Church), Poblacion. The main Roman Catholic church in Calayan.
Camiguin Island
[edit | edit source]The nearest island from Santa Ana, and the most visible from mainland Luzon. This should not be confused with the equally volcanic island province of Camiguin in the southern Philippines.
- 12 Didicas Volcano. A small volcanic island with an elevation of 228 metres (748 ft) that repeatedly erupted out of the ocean and sunk before definitively emerging into dry land since an eruption in 1952. It is the most active of the islands' volcanoes and there are tight restrictions on approaching the island, although some who have managed to step on its shores describe the ground as being hot enough to cook a fish on.
- 13 Camiguin de Babuyanes (Mount Camiguin), Naguilian. An active 712 metres (2,336 ft) volcano on the southern tip of Camiguin Island that last erupted in 1857.
- 14 Naguilian Beach, Naguilian. A stretch of white-sand beach around a sheltered cove at the western side of the island.
- 15 Pamoctan Island, Balatubat. An islet facing Naguilian Beach with its own white-sand beach.
Dalupiri Island
[edit | edit source]Probably the least known of the islands, it is an elongated stretch of land with white-sand beaches on its eastern side and rocky coastlines to the west.
- 16 Banua Beach. A white-sand stretch on the southwestern side of the island.
Fuga Island
[edit | edit source]Administratively part of Aparri, it is visible from the coast of northwestern Cagayan. Since the 1970s, it has been the property of Fuga Island Holdings Inc. and is also part of the Cagayan Economic Zone Authority (CEZA) based in Santa Ana, which has been trying to develop the island into a luxury holiday destination without much success, with the resident population trying to get by in between.
- 17 Mount Nanguringan. The highest peak in the island at 191 metres (627 ft).
- 18 Saint Ursula Church Ruins, Sitio Naguilian. The ruins of a Spanish-era church.
- 19 Musa Beach, Sitio Mudoc. A stretch of white-sand beach on the western side of Fuga Island.
Do
[edit | edit source]While on a boat, expect to see the islands' vibrant marine life, including dolphins and humpback whales. On land, try to find endemic birds such as the Calayan rail (Garillalus calayanensis, locally known as piding) as well as migratory ones while hiking. Dalupiri has some rare reptiles such as the Philippine crocodile and the endemic Ross's wolf snake.
Buy
[edit | edit source]Prices of most goods tend to be higher as they have to be imported from the mainland, especially fuel. These can skyrocket when bad weather prevents deliveries from the mainland. Due to erratic phone signals and the absence of banks and ATMs, always pay in cash. As there are no malls, grocery stores or markets to speak of, make sure to bring enough food, water, batteries and other necessary supplies whenever you travel in the area.
Eat
[edit | edit source]Apart from the usual seafood, a popular souvenir from the islands is the honey gathered from the forests and banayuyu wine, which is made from an endemic species of berry.
- 1 Olen's Miki House, Poblacion, Calayan Island, lornaescalante@gmail.com. A restaurant serving rice noodle soup (miki).
Drink
[edit | edit source]- 1 Cafe Flora, Poblacion, Calayan Island. 7:30AM-7:30PM M, W-Sa, 8AM-7:30PM Su, closed Tu. A coffee shop that also serves rice meals. P55-300.
Sleep
[edit | edit source]There are no large-scale hotels to speak of, just some homestays and inns.
- 1 AC Lance Resort, Dadao, Calayan Island, ☏ +63 921 544 1218, escalanteac3@gmail.com. A homestay.
- 2 Nomad Eco Resort, Naguilian, Camiguin Island. A homestay.
Stay safe
[edit | edit source]Crime is minimal, as the few residents seem to know each other and are enthusiastic to learn about new visitors. There are also no insurgents waging armed rebellions in the hinterlands, although there is an active presence by the Philippine military and Coast Guard across the islands due to its strategic position near Taiwan and mainland China.
Avoid visiting during the typhoon season from June to October, when the islands frequently suffer direct hits from storms and the risk of getting stranded for weeks is a real possibility. The cold season from November to February is also a no-go season due to squalls generated by the northeast monsoon.
The islands' volcanoes, despite being active, are not closely monitored by the government compared to the more famous volcanoes on the mainland such as Mayon or Taal, leaving you at the mercy of residents' guesswork. Climb these peaks at your own risk.
Fuga Island has the peculiar distinction of operating under two sets of laws, the first being that of the government, and the second from the Metro Manila-based company that bought the island in the 1970s as part of a plan to turn the island into a luxury tourism hub, although the island is still nowhere near the Caribbean paradise one expects.
Stay healthy
[edit | edit source]Avoid getting into a major medical emergency during your stay at all costs, as there are no hospitals while the clinics have limited medicines and staff. You will need to take the dreaded boat journey back to the mainland, or if you're lucky, get on a rare outbound charter flight.
Connect
[edit | edit source]Calayan Municipality's postal code is 3520, while Fuga Island, being part of Aparri, shares 3515 with the mainland.
Cellphone and internet signals are historically abysmal in the islands. Sometimes the reception from radio stations in Taiwan can be clearer than the domestic ones. Electricity is on a rotational basis, with generators and solar panels being the norm.