Bagenalstown

Muine Bheag, meaning "small thicket", is the official name of the town known in English as Bagenalstown. It's in County Carlow and in 2022 it had a population of 3000.

It is far from obvious that this place was modelled on Versailles, yet such was the boast of "Lord" Walter Bagenal (1670-1745). All over 18th and 19th century Europe, plutocrats sat down with interior designers and the pattern book and said "yes like that, only with better-endowed girls and boys on the bathroom fittings, and much more gilt, and leave out the guillotine." They've bequeathed us a series of glitzy palaces that briefly impress on arrival, but somehow don't linger in the memory. Many have succumbed to time but modern ones keep appearing, name the plutocrat of your choice.

The parallel was that Dublin like Paris was dirty, tumbledown and dangerous. Better to build anew, on a classical grid pattern, and make this the power-base: imagine the ambassadors, artists and supplicants that would gather at the gates of Dunleckney Manor when it transmuted into bling. But Bagenal was no Sun King, and all this was castles-in-the-air, as imaginary as his noble title. Later the story was told that he commissioned the courthouse only to abandon the project when the main coach route altered to bypass town. In truth even the courthouse was only erected about a century later, Bagenal talked big but didn't much improve his own manor let alone town, and Muine Bheag was destined to remain a "small thicket".

By road from Dublin follow N7 / M7 onto M9 and take Exit 6 onto R448 south.

Buses between Dublin and Waterford fly past on the motorway, but stop at Paulstown 6 km southwest.

Local Link Bus 887 runs three times a day from New Ross via Tinnahinch and Borris to Bagenalstown, continuing to Leighlinbridge and Carlow.

Trains run every hour or two from Dublin Heuston via Newbridge, Kildare, Athy and Carlow, taking 75 min to Muine Bheag / Bagenalstown and continuing to Kilkenny, Thomastown and Waterford (another 90 min). See Irish Rail for timetables, fares and on-line tickets.

52.6991-6.95261 Muine Bheag station is southeast side of town centre.

Town won't amuse you for long, so you need wheels for the outlying sights; a bike would do. For example Leighlinbridge is only 4 km north on R705, but the road is narrow and busy with no sidewalk, so walking is tedious by day and hazardous at night. However you could bike or hike there along the canal towpath.

No taxi is based in Bagenalstown, they'd have to come out from Carlow.

• 52.7023-6.95851 The Old Courthouse turns its back on Main St, but looks out over Bachelor's Walk to greet the Bagenals as they rode between manor and magistrates' bench. It resembles a folly with its NatWest cod-classical portico; commissioned in 1826, it included a bridewell or lock-up which was unused, proving unsuitable even for Irish offenders. The architect Robertson "used to be driven about in a wheel-barrow with a bottle of sherry; while that lasted he was always ready to direct the workmen, but when it was finished he was incapable of working any more." The courthouse has been used as the town library but there's nowadays no access.
• Dunleckney Manor the home of Walter Bagenal was built in the 17th century and re-modelled in the 1850s. It's now a private residence, no tours, 1 km northeast of town and hidden behind trees.
• 52.7004-6.90632 Ballymoon Castle is a ruin 3 km east of town. It was built circa 1300 but nothing is known of its occupation history; perhaps it was never completed. A courtyard is surrounded by stout walls, and you can access it free by the path from R724.
• 52.6731-6.89823 Ballyloughan Castle is another ruin of a Norman castle of circa 1300. All that's left is the twin-towered gatehouse and two small square corner towers behind. A 17th-century ruined manor stands nearby. The ruins are on private land, you see enough from the lane.
• 52.6865-7.02174 Shankill Castle, Paulstown R95 N7F3, ☏ +353 86 397 1748. Apr-Oct F-Su 11AM-5PM. Medieval turret rebuilt from 1708 and much enlarged and prettified in the 19th century, with extensive gardens. The house remains a private residence. Castle and gardens: adult €14, conc €10, child €6.  (updated Oct 2026)

• Bagenalstown Swimming Pool is 1 km north of town on R705. It's an open-air pool open Jun-Oct daily, next to the river. Nominally it's heated but you might be wanting a hot drink later.
• Boating: River Barrow is navigable from tidal waters at New Ross all the way up to Athy, whence a canal links to the Grand Canal between Dublin and the Shannon. Check Waterways Ireland for current navigation status. At Bagenalstown there's a weir with a short bypass canal and lock system. No marina, serviced moorings or boat hire here, head for Leighlinbridge.
• Fishing: there's coarse angling on the river, with good access around town.
• Golf: there isn't a full course here. The Pitch & Putt is in McGrath Park north side of town.
• Carrigbeg Riding Stables are off R724, east edge of town, tel +353 59 972 1962.

• Aldi at the northeast corner of town is open M-Sa 8AM-10PM, Su 9AM-9PM. In town there's also a SuperValu and Lidl.

• Tandoori King on Market Square is open W-M 4:30-10:30PM.
• New World is a Chinese takeaway at 20 Main St, open daily 5-11PM.
• Great World are their rivals at 11 Main St, open daily 4PM-12:30AM.
• Birdcage Cafe on Main St is open M-Sa 9AM-2PM.
• Milano's is a pizza takeaway at 3 Main St, open daily 3-11PM.
• Crust and Smash is a pizzeria on Batchelors Walk, open Th F & M 6-10PM, Sa Su 4-10PM.
• Railway House (Doyle's), Kilree St, Bagenalstown R21 W688 (corner of Church St), ☏ +353 59 972 0676. Su-Th 9:30AM-9PM, F Sa 9AM-12:30AM. Well-run bar and fast-food restaurant. (updated Oct 2026)

• The Local on Market Square is open M-Sa 10:30AM-12:30PM, Su 12:30-11PM.
• Jimmy D's at 5 Regent St is open M-Th 6-11:30PM, F Sa 6PM-12:30AM, Su 2PM-12:30AM.
• The Red Lion, Regent St R21 F300, ☏ +353 59 972 1614. Daily noon-11:30PM. Trad pub with TV sport. (updated Oct 2026)
• Matty's Pub, Royal Oak Rd R21 K883, ☏ +353 59 972 1405. M Tu, Th-Sa 2-8PM, Su noon-9PM. Lively pub at west edge of town, also has a self-catering flat. (updated Oct 2026)
• O'Hara's Brewery, Muine Bheag Business Park, Royal Oak Road R21 DR77, ☏ +353 59 972 0509. They brew a variety of ales. No tours. (updated Oct 2026)

• 52.6944-6.99261 Orchard Grove, Wells, Muine Bheag R21 RC58, ☏ +353 59 972 2140. This was sold in Sep 2026 and it's not yet known if the new owners wish to continue as a B&B.  (updated Oct 2026)
• 52.6538-6.95822 Kilgraney House, Kilgreaney R21 W527, ☏ +353 59 977 5283, info@kilgraneyhouse.com. Georgian house open Apr-Oct, surrounded by five acres of wooded gardens. B&B double €170.  (updated Oct 2026)
• 52.6621-6.88973 Corriebeg Cottage, Corries Cross R21 WR68, ☏ +353 59 972 1660. Peaceful welcoming B&B near Ballyloughan Castle.  (updated Oct 2026)

As of Sep 2026 Bagenalstown and its approach roads have 4G from Eir and Vodafone, and 5G from Three.

• Carlow the county town has a ruined castle and a fine cathedral.
• Kilkenny is a miniature medieval city.
• Borris is a quiet country village near the Blackstairs mountains.