Changbaishan National Nature Reserve (长白山自然保护区) is in Jilin province.
Understand
[edit | edit source]Covering an area of 2,000 km2, the Changbai Mountains National Reserve is a large natural zoo and botanical garden, part of the UNESCO's Man and Biosphere Program. The Tianchi Lake (Heaven Lake), vertical scenery, aerial park, hot springs, and waterfalls are among the six local natural wonders. The mountains, covered with primitive forests, make an excellent tourist destination.
Tianchi Lake is 13 km in circumference but cannot be walked around owing to the border with North Korea (Mount Paektu).
Changbaishan has two separate areas- the northern slope and the western slope. Heaven Lake is accessible from both sides of the reserve. The north and west entrances are separated by 100 km.
If you want to hike besides the tourist routes you have to have a guide. Just don't hike alone, and bring food and medical supply. It should be strongly noted that the border with North Korea is not clearly marked and there have been arrests by North Korean border guards of foreigners.
History
[edit | edit source]Changbaishan was long considered by Manchus and Koreans to be the origin of their civilizations. Climbing the mountain was considered taboo for most of China's history, with violators often being beaten to death.
Landscape
[edit | edit source]Chang Bai Shan (Eternally White Mountain) is the tallest peak in Dongbei (Northeast China). It is a dormant volcano with a lake in the crater named Tianchi Lake and this lake is the source of the Songhua River. Latest eruption was in 1702 AD.
Flora and fauna
[edit | edit source]Below the lake in the crater, the mountain offers a very large selection of flora, such as the rare Chang Bai larch. There are 80 species of trees and over 300 types of medicinal plants in the reserve.
Climate
[edit | edit source]From early October to late May, access into the park will be very difficult due to the amount of snow that falls in the winter. Early September seems to be one of the better times to visit and a whole lot of South Koreans agree. Finding availability around this time can be difficult.
Get in
[edit | edit source]Access into the Nature Reserve for non-Chinese is mainly through Baihe. Baihe can be access by bus through Yanji or train through Tonghua. From Baihe, buses travel frequently to Chang Bai Shan to the vehicle switching station, 27 km past the main gate. From the vehicle switching station, 4WD vehicles take you the rest of the way to the hot springs at the base of the mountain.
Buses stop at the main entrance. Then you pay another fee for the "eco-bus" operated by the park concession. To get to the summit, you must take a 4WD to the upper camp building, and then hike about 150 m to the top. In June 2011, the snow was solid from camp to summit. The summit is quite cold and windy. Surplus Red Army jackets are available to borrow, apparently for free. In summer, the view down onto the lake is often obscured by clouds.
An alternate access is via Songjiang He, a village 40 km west of the Nature Reserve. The western approach offers more beauty with forests of trees gradually changing to meadows and flowers (in spring and early summer).
The easiest way to get to Changbaishan is by booking one of the three-day tours arranged through CITS in Jilin (at the Dongguan Hotel) costing ¥620 (¥420 for Chinese), which include all fees and accommodation, and which stop at all the major sightseeing spots, including Tian Chi.
By car
[edit | edit source]- For navigation enter Erdao Baihezhen for destination.
- Changchun to direction Airport/Jilin G12 to Jilin (1.5 hours)
- Jilin to G12 to Dunhau (1.5 hours)
- Dunhua to G201 to (pass by Xiaoshahexiang, Yougqingxian) Erdao Baihezhen/Bai he (3 hours)
- In July 2011 all the roads where new and easy to drive. Petrol stations and toilets were available.
- In Erdao Baihezhen to the North Gate (20 km) follow the signs
- In Erdao Baihezhen to West Gate (80 km) follow the signs Baihe Forestry/Westgate
- From North Gate to West Gate: coming from North Gate, before you enter Baihe there is a sign, "West Gate", on your left hand. Follow the small road until you come to a bigger, new road. Turn left and follow the road.
Fees and permits
[edit | edit source]- Park admission ¥100
- Transportation fee ¥85 (which pay for the shuttle busses inside the park)
- 4WD tour to Heaven Lake ¥80 (North Gate - since there is no walking path to Heaven Lake you have to take a 4WD.)
- Chinese and student-card holders may receive discount.
Park admission and transportation fee have to be paid as soon as you enter the park. If you sleep outside the park you have to pay daily for the park admission and transportation. If you sleep in one of the hotels inside the park (North Gate) you pay only one time the park admission and the transportation fee - irrespective of the duration of your stay.
Get around
[edit | edit source]Cars are prohibited in the parks. Shuttle buses bring the tourists from the north/west gate to the different sightseeing spots in the park and run frequently. Ask for the operating times of the buses and the opening hours of the park. (approx. West Gate 07:00-16:00, North Gate 07:00-18:00)
Northern Slope:
- From Baihe to the parking area of the Northgate entrance (20 km) by car, buses, or taxi
- From entrance to the waterfall (20 km) by shuttle bus
- From entrance to the parking area (16 km) where you can board a 4WD for journey up to Heaven Lake
- From parking area with the 4WDs to Heaven Lake approx. 20 minutes
- From parking area with the 4WDs to waterfall approx. 4 km
- From waterfall to the Green Deep Pool or Small Sky Pond/Silver Ring Lake 2 km
Western Slope
- From Songjianghe to parking area of the entrance (approx. 40 minutes) by taxi or with a tour
- From entrance to Heaven Lake or to the canyon (approx. 50 minutes/40 km)
From Northern Gate to Western Gate - approx. 100 km, 2 hours. From waterfall to the canyon - approx. 4 hours.
See
[edit | edit source]Northern Slope:
- Tian Chi/ Heaven Lake is the Highlight of Changbaishan, this deep-blue volcanic crater lake at the top of the mountain is surrounded by 16 mountain peaks. In some years, it is frozen even in June. The lake marks the boundary of China and North Korea. The mountain belongs to the five holy mountains of Korea. You have to take a 4WD to get to the mountain (16 km). The walking path from the waterfall to the Heaven Lake is closed. It is less crowded in the afternoon hours - ask for the operating hours of the 4WDs. (last one from the mountain in July 2011 was around 18:00)
- Changbai Waterfall (68 metre) Erdaobai River runs off Heaven Lake and creates the longest volcanic waterfall in the world. Snowmelt from the Heavens Lake cascades down a volcanic landscape.
- On the way to the waterfall there natural hot springs- you can enjoy a bath in the bathhouse. The springs are hot enough to boil eggs and corn, which can be purchased for local vendors.
- Green Deep Pool. The Pond is surrounded by trees and cliffs. A 25 m high waterfall flows into the pond with green water.
- Small Sky Pond/Silver Ring Lake is a small lake where you can start walking tours along the river (e.g. 1.5 hours to the waterfall).
- Underground forest (12 km from the north gate) is a nice walking area. Discover in a 30 minutes' walk a crater filled with trees.
Western Slope
- Tian Chi/ Heaven Lake (over 900 stairs to the top)
- Changbaishan Canyon (Changbaishan Daxiagu) discover in a 40 minutes' walk the main attraction of the western side - the impressive Changbaishan Canyon.
- The shuttle bus stops at several more attractions
- 1 Changbai Mountain (Changbai Shan), Chibei District, Antu County, Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture, Jilin Province, China (Access is mainly via Baihe (Erdaobaihe Town). From Baihe, frequent buses run to the scenic area's main gate and vehicle switching station. From there, 4WD vehicles or eco-buses take visitors further up the mountain.), ☏ +86-433-5742286, toll-free: +86-4000006789, cbszhb@163.com. North Slope: 06:30–15:00; West Slope: 06:30–15:00; South Slope: 08:00–15:00. Changbai Mountain is a dormant volcano on the China–North Korea border, home to Heaven Lake (Tianchi), the world's highest volcanic crater lake. The reserve features waterfalls, hot springs, and pristine forests, and is part of UNESCO's Man and Biosphere Program. Entry: ¥105; Eco-bus: ¥85 (mandatory); 4WD to Heaven Lake: ¥80.
Do
[edit | edit source]A daytrip at Northern Slope:
- Get to the park (from Baihe 20 km) and buy tickets
- Take the shuttle bus and drive from entrance to Green Deep Pool (approx. 35 minutes)
- Start your day at Green Deep Pool (approx. 20-45 minutes of walking time)
- Take the Shuttle Bus to the waterfall (approx. 10 minutes of driving time)
- At the parking area of the waterfall, turn right, go over the bridge, turn left and follow the path on the right side of the river to the waterfall (approx. 30 minutes walking time)
- From the waterfall follow the main path down to the parking area - enjoy the natural hot spring scenery and stop at a vendor to buy boiled eggs.
- At the parking area of the waterfall, go over the bridge, turn right and follow the path along the river to Small Sky Pond (approx. 60 minutes walking time). The path was closed in July 2011, but still good to walk.
- From Small Sky Pond walk through the forest to the snack bar/big parking area to catch the shuttle bus and drive to the parking area for the 4WDs.
- Buy a ticket and climb up the mountain with a 4WD. Beware of the operating hours of the 4WD. A trip up the mountain and taking pictures takes time (approx. 1.5 hours.) (July 2011, last 4WD from the mountain 19:45)
- Take the shuttle bus back (beware of the operating hours)
- Enjoy a soak in one of the hot springs at the base of the mountain - the bathhouse offers hot spring baths for ¥40 per person
A daytrip at Western Slope:
- Get to the park (Songjianghe to parking area of the entrance approx. 40 minutes) and buy tickets
- Take the shuttle bus and drive from the entrance up to the mountain where the stairs start (approx. 50 minutes drive)
- Buy some drinks - climb up the stairs to see the Heavens Lake and the North Korean border (approx. 60 minutes)
- Take the shuttle bus to the canyon (all the buses stop here and you have to get out of the bus) and enjoy the great scenery (approx. 40 minutes walk)
- Take the shuttle bus back (beware of the operating hours)
- There are some more attractions between the mountain and the canyon. The buses stop here also.
- 1 Changbai Mountain North Slope Day Hike (Mount Paektu), North Scenic Area, Erdaobaihe Town, Antu County, Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture, Jilin Province (Take the high-speed train to "Changbaishan Station" (in Erdaobaihe Town). From the station, take the tourist shuttle bus (approx. 15 RMB/person, 40 mins) directly to the North Scenic Area Distribution Center. From there, board the eco-friendly shuttle bus to enter the park.), ☏ +86 400-000-6789. Peak season (May-Sep): 07:00-17:00; Off-season (Oct-Apr): 08:00-17:00 (Last entry is typically at 16:00). Added a detailed activity listing for the Changbai Mountain North Slope day hike, including transport, ticketing, and route information. 305 RMB/person for the standard North Slope combo ticket (includes entry, eco-bus, and the mandatory off-road vehicle to the Tianchi main peak).
Buy
[edit | edit source]- 1 Yunding Market (云顶市集), Tianfu Street, Erdaobaihe Town, Antu County, Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture, Jilin Province (Located in the central area of Erdaobaihe Town, close to the Meiren Pine Sculpture Park). 15:00–21:00 (summer); 16:00–21:30 (winter). A lively night market and cultural street in Erdaobaihe. It's a great place to pick up local souvenirs, handicrafts, and specialty foods like birch sap and pine nuts while enjoying the evening atmosphere. Free entry.
- 2 Changbaishan Mountain Goods Market (长白山山货市场), No. 2 Hekou Street, Hunjiang District, Baishan City, Jilin Province (Located in the Hunjiang District of Baishan City; a local comprehensive market for mountain specialties). 08:30–16:00. A large comprehensive market specializing in Changbai Mountain products. Here you can find wild ginseng, edible mushrooms (such as hazel mushroom and black fungus), nuts, and other local mountain goods at reasonable prices. Good for stocking up on dried specialties to bring home. Free entry.
Eat
[edit | edit source]The shops inside the park and along the road might be closed during low season (September–June) - you might need to bring your own provisions for the trip e.g. fruit, bread, nuts, cereal bars, chocolate and drinks.
During high season you can buy small snacks (e.g. boiled eggs) and drinks inside the park and at the gates - prices are high. There are no restaurants inside the park. You might want to bring some provisions.
- 1 Changbai Mountain Farmhouse Iron Pot Stew (Northeast Hearth Fish / Forest Area Iron Pot Stew), Shops along Baishan Street, Chibei District (Erdaobaihe Town), Antu County, Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture, Jilin Province (Located in the central area of Erdaobaihe Town, about a 3-5 minute drive from the Changbai Mountain North Scenic Area Visitor Center), ☏ +86 433 571 6688. 10:00-21:30. Features local Changbai Mountain specialty Iron Pot Stew, using free-range geese or cold-water fish from the forest area, paired with Northeast potatoes, wide glass noodles, and dried green beans. Stewed fresh on a wood-fired hearth, dipping cornbread (Guotie) in the rich broth is a must-try. Perfect for group dining and the top choice for warming up in winter. ¥80-¥120 per person.
Drink
[edit | edit source]- 1 Yikou Changbai DRINK (一口长白DRINK), Rendong Road, Erdaobaihe Town, Antu County, Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture, Jilin Province (Located in Erdaobaihe Town, a short walk from the main accommodation area). 10:00–21:00. A trendy café blending local Changbai Mountain ingredients with coffee. Signature drinks include Frozen Pear Sparkling Americano, Volcanic Ash Latte, and Red Ginseng Energy Tea. The café also doubles as a creative souvenir shop with a "Changbai Mountain Letter" postcard service. From ¥25–¥36 per drink.
- 2 President Yin Korean Folk Milk Tea (银社长朝鲜族民俗奶茶), Opposite Zhongxiang Tourism Building, Baidingxiang Road, Erdaobaihe Town, Antu County, Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture, Jilin Province (In Erdaobaihe Town, about a 14-minute walk from Enduli). 11:30–22:30. A Korean-style folk drink shop specializing in rice wine (Makgeolli) and milk tea. The signature Osmanthus Cream Rice Wine combines fermented rice wine with sweet osmanthus and creamy foam. Also try the Strawberry Mulberry Coconut Milk. A great spot for a late-night drink after exploring the town. From ¥16 per person.
Sleep
[edit | edit source]- 1 Crowne Plaza Resort Changbaishan Hot Spring (长白山温泉皇冠假日酒店), North Gate of Changbaishan, Chibei District, Erdaobaihe Town, Antu County, Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture, Jilin Province (Located in Chibei District, about a 13-minute walk to the North Scenic Area entrance; the hotel is surrounded by primary forest), ☏ +86 433 607 6888. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. An upscale resort hotel featuring natural hot spring pools fed directly from Julong Spring. A green channel allows guests to buy scenic area tickets on-site and take the eco-bus directly to the transfer station, saving time and hassle. From ¥1,300 per night (varies by season).
- 2 Wanda Jin Resort Changbaishan (长白山万达锦华度假酒店), No. 455 Baiyun Road, Wanda International Resort, Fusong County, Baishan, Jilin Province (Inside Wanda International Resort; about 20 minutes from Changbaishan Airport with a shuttle bus), ☏ +86 439 698 6666Phone with wrong format. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. A resort hotel located inside the Wanda International Resort area. Rooms offer views of the forest or ski slopes. It is a convenient choice for ski-in/ski-out access in winter and a good base for exploring the West Slope in summer. From ¥1,083 per night (varies by season).
- Park Hyatt Changbaishan (长白山柏悦酒店), No. 236 Guanmian Street, South District, Wanda International Resort, Fusong County, Baishan, Jilin (Inside Wanda International Resort, near the ski slope; about 17 km from Changbaishan Airport), ☏ +86 439 698 1234Phone with wrong format. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. A luxury resort in the Wanda International Resort area, designed with elegant interiors and cultural details. Rooms are spacious with forest views. It is a top choice for ski-in/ski-out access in winter and hiking/relaxation in summer. From ¥2,000+ per night (peak season higher).
Lodging
[edit | edit source]Northern Slope: Several hotels operate within the park, e.g. International Tourist Hotel (Guoji Lüyou Binguan) Tel. 0433 5746001 or the Grand Dynasty Hotel/Changbaishan Daewoo Hotel Tel. 0433 5746666. Prices for a double room start at ¥700.
- Price includes breakfast, dinner and hot spring bath
- Receptionists speak English
- You pay the park admission and the transportation fee once only - irrespective of the length of your stay.
- Some rooms have waterfall view.
- In the morning and evening you can enjoy the silence of the park without other tourists.
- Shuttle bus stop right in front of the hotel.
- Save travel time (from Baihe to waterfall approx. 40 minutes).
- Behind the hotel you can find in a 5 minutes' walk the river, the Green Deep Pond (with waterfall) and the Small Sky Pond/Silver Ring Lake. From there you can walk to the waterfall (approx. 2 km) or you take the shuttle bus.
- Take a rest during the day in your hotel room.
- No shops (drinks can be bought at the hotel) or other restaurants
- High room rates
- Since you are not allowed to enter the park with your car, you have to catch the shuttle bus at the Northgate to get to your hotel. Please ask for the operating time of the buses (19:45 in summer) and the opening hours of the park.
In Baihe you can find inexpensive and mid-range lodging (from Baihe to the Northgate 20 km; 40 km to the waterfall and 45 minutes/80 km to the West Gate)
Western Slope: Several hotels are located outside the park gate (e.g. Days Hotel Landscape Resort - 5 minutes' walk to the gate). In Songjianghe you can find inexpensive and midrange lodging (around 40 minutes from Songjianghe to the Westgate).
Camping
[edit | edit source]- 3 Changbaishan Red Pine Camp (长白山红松王宿营地), Red Pine King Forest Sports Park, Chibei District, Antu County, Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture, Jilin Province (Located in the Red Pine King Scenic Area, roughly between the Erdaobaihe town and the North Slope transfer center), ☏ +86 136 5433 0919Phone with wrong format. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. A well-equipped campsite in the North Slope area. It offers three themed camping zones: RV (Zone A), Star (Zone B), and Forest (Zone C). Facilities include a service hall, restaurant, showers, and water/electricity hookups for RVs. Varies by site type (RV, Star, Forest).
Backcountry
[edit | edit source]- 4 Jinjiang Log Cabin Village (锦江木屋村), Manjiang Town, Fusong County, Baishan City, Jilin Province (deep in the forest) (Located in the hinterland of Changbai Mountain; best accessed by self-driving, about 20 km from Songjianghe Town). Check-in: All day (daytime recommended). Known as "China's last log cabin village", this 300-year-old settlement is a perfectly preserved cluster of pure wooden architecture. Hidden deep in the forest of Fusong County, it offers a rare glimpse into the original life of the Northeast China mountain region. Free entry.
Stay safe
[edit | edit source]The Tian Chi lake is split between China and North Korea. The border is not clearly marked and foreigners have been arrested and detained in the past by North Korean border guards on 'espionage' charges. Take every precaution not to get too close to North Korea, even if you think you are still in Chinese territory.
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