
The Coast to Coast Walk is a 190-mile long-distance trail in England that crosses the north of the country from St Bees in Cumbria on the west coast to Robin Hood's Bay in North Yorkshire on the east coast.
Understand
[edit | edit source]The walk (also known as the C2C) was created in 1972 by Alfred Wainwright, when, in response to the creation of the Pennine Way, he set about devising the best walk he could imagine in England. It has never been adopted as an official National Trail, though a campaign has begun, but is hugely popular, and once came second (after the Milford Track) in a poll among travel writers conducted by Country Walking magazine to find the finest walk in the world.
Along its route the walk passes through three National Parks: The Lake District, the Yorkshire Dales, and the North York Moors. The creator suggested walking from West to East in order to enjoy the best possible views, and to have any prevailing weather at your back rather than in your face.
The original guidebook was written in Wainwright's characteristic style of hand-written text and hand-drawn maps, in the same manner as his seminal Pictorial Guides to the Lakeland Fells.
Prepare
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The walk typically takes people two weeks to complete, longer if you adopt Wainwright's 'stop and stare' approach. You'll want a copy of the guidebook, maps, and suitable outdoor gear. The walk crosses through the mountains of the Lake District but generally keeps to the passes, apart from the occasional option to cross summits.
Walkers may split the walk in various ways to suit the distance they want to walk in a day, though the availability of accommodation may limit this. The author suggested breaking the walk into twelve days, which makes about 16 miles a day. Some find this a little too much for comfort and choose to have the odd rest day or a couple of short days, or even to take other transport as substitution for a day or two.
An option to lighten the load is a daily baggage transfer service, such as pack horse or van[dead link], who will take your luggage to the next day's finish point for around £10 per bag.
Eat
[edit | edit source]You will find a mix of hearty pub grub, tea rooms, and local delicacies like Grasmere Gingerbread or Kendal Mint Cake. Most villages have a pub or small shop, but some remote stretches (like the climb out of Ennerdale or the moors) require you to carry a packed lunch. Many B&Bs will provide a sandwich box for a small fee if booked in advance. While some hostels have kitchens, most hikers rely on village infrastructure rather than carrying a stove.
Drink
[edit | edit source]Tap water in England is potable and easy to refill at your accommodation or in village cafés. While the route is rich with streams in the uplands, you should use a filtration bottle or treatment tablets if drinking from natural sources due to nearby livestock.
Sleep
[edit | edit source]Accommodation is varied, ranging from cosy B&Bs and traditional pubs to independent hostels and YHAs. Because the route passes through popular tourist areas, it is highly recommended to book well in advance, particularly in the Lake District and smaller villages like Keld. "Wild camping" is generally illegal without landowner permission in England, though many official campsites exist along the trail. Some pubs also allow camping in their gardens for a small fee.
Climate
[edit | edit source]The weather is notoriously unpredictable; expect rain and wind even in mid-summer. High-quality waterproof jacket and trousers are non-negotiable. The trail is best walked between May and September. Winter hiking is only for the experienced, as snow can make mountain navigation dangerous and many seasonal B&Bs may be closed.
Get in
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To St Bees.
By train
St Bees has a station on the Cumbrian Coast rail line. From the West Coast Main Line, change at Carlisle or Lancaster off the west Coast main line, or at Barrow-in-Furness. There are, as of 2013, 21 stopping passenger trains a day. The station is on the Main Street in the centre of the village, where there are three pubs within 5 minutes' walking. It is a 20-minute walk to the official start of the Coast to Coast walk at the main beach.
By car
Leave the M6 at junction 40 (Penrith) and head west along the A66 to Cockermouth, then south along the A5086 to Egremont. St Bees is a couple of miles to the west and will be signposted.
Walk
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The walk starts at the seawall at the main beach in St Bees; there is a monument to mark this with an interpretation board. The scenery throughout is beautiful, but also varied, since you pass through a number of different types of landscapes. The start is a coastal walk, with cliffs, seabirds, and a lighthouse. Soon after heading inland you pass through the Lake District, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2017, which has a fantastic variety of landscapes. The northern part of the Yorkshire Dales is limestone country, then the Vale of Mowbray is lower-level terrain. The North York Moors are peaty moorlands, and finally you reach the sea once more at Robin Hood's Bay among the highest cliffs in England.
St Bees to Shap
[edit | edit source]St Bees to Shap runs for around 61.25 mi.
The route begins at the Irish Sea in 1 St Bees, where many walkers traditionally dip their boots in the sea before setting off. It climbs quickly onto the red sandstone cliffs of 1 St Bees Head, giving a dramatic opening with sea views, nesting seabirds, and the lighthouse on the headland. After leaving the coast, the path turns inland through farmland and the former mining villages of 2 Sandwith, 3 Moor Row, and 4 Cleator. The first serious hill is 2 Dent Fell, followed by a descent through Nannycatch valley to the quiet village of 5 Ennerdale Bridge.
This is one of the wilder Lake District stages. The path follows the shore of Ennerdale Water, with views towards the western fells, then continues up the valley on tracks and paths through remote country. Beyond 1 YHA Black Sail, one of the most isolated hostels in England, the route climbs beside Loft Beck towards the high ground near 3 Grey Knotts. The descent passes the Honister area and drops into Borrowdale, reaching 6 Seatoller before following valley paths and woodland into 7 Rosthwaite (Borrowdale).
A shorter but still mountainous stage, leaving Borrowdale by way of Stonethwaite and the valley of Greenup Gill. The climb to Greenup Edge is rough in places and can feel remote in poor weather, but it gives a fine crossing between two classic Lake District valleys. The route then descends by Far Easedale, gradually returning to enclosed fields, stone walls, and farm tracks. It ends in the busy village of 8 Grasmere, closely associated with William Wordsworth and well supplied with accommodation, cafés, and shops.
From Grasmere the route climbs towards Grisedale Hause, with steep ground and excellent views back over the central Lake District. The standard line passes below the summit of 4 Seat Sandal, but experienced walkers in good conditions often consider higher alternatives over 5 Helvellyn or 6 St Sunday Crag. The easier main route descends the long valley of Grisedale, with crags and high ridges on either side, before reaching 9 Patterdale near the head of Ullswater.
This is a long, high-level day and includes the highest point of the Coast to Coast. The trail climbs steadily from Patterdale past Angle Tarn to 7 Kidsty Pike, where the Lake District fells give wide views in clear weather. A steep descent leads to Haweswater Reservoir, followed by a long waterside section beneath the eastern fells. The final miles leave the mountains behind, crossing rough pasture, lanes, and farmland before entering 10 Shap, a useful stop on the edge of the limestone country.
Shap to Richmond
[edit | edit source]Shap to Richmond runs at around 67.5 mi.
After the rugged Lake District, this is a gentler transition into the limestone landscapes of eastern Cumbria. The path crosses fields, lanes, and open moorland, passing scattered farms and prehistoric remains. Limestone pavements, small scars, and open views replace the steep fells of the previous days. The stage finishes in 11 Orton, a small village with a green, church, and a quieter feel than many Lake District stops.
A long but generally less steep day across remote upland country. The route passes between the Lake District and the Howgill Fells, with broad views rather than dramatic mountain climbs. It crosses moors, farms, and small becks, with long stretches where services are limited and navigation can require care in poor weather. The day ends in 12 Kirkby Stephen, a small market town with more facilities than the villages on either side.
The route climbs from Kirkby Stephen to the 8 Nine Standards Rigg, a line of large stone cairns on the Pennine watershed. This is one of the symbolic midpoints of the walk: streams west of here drain towards the Irish Sea, while those to the east flow towards the North Sea. The moorland beyond can be boggy, though stone flags and seasonal route choices help reduce erosion. The descent enters upper Swaledale, passing waterfalls and rough pasture before reaching 13 Keld, where the Coast to Coast meets the Pennine Way.
Between Keld and Reeth the walker usually chooses between two distinct routes. The higher option crosses open moorland and old lead-mining country, with remains of hushes, spoil heaps, and industrial workings scattered across the hillsides. The lower option follows Swaledale more closely, passing waterfalls, barns, meadows, and villages such as 14 Muker and 15 Gunnerside. Both routes show a memorable part of the Yorkshire Dales before arriving in 16 Reeth, set around a broad village green.
This is an easier valley stage after the high moors. The route follows the River Swale downstream through fields, woodland, and small settlements, with frequent views of barns, stone walls, and the wooded sides of Swaledale. It passes near 9 Marrick Priory and continues through riverside and woodland paths before reaching 17 Richmond. Richmond is one of the largest and most attractive towns on the route, with a castle, cobbled market place, and plenty of services.
Richmond to Robin Hood's Bay
[edit | edit source]The section from Richmond to Robin Hood's bay stretches for around 64 mi.
This is one of the longest and flattest stages of the Coast to Coast, crossing the Vale of Mowbray between the Yorkshire Dales and the North York Moors. The scenery is quieter and more agricultural, with field paths, lanes, small bridges, and villages such as 18 Danby Wiske. Although the walking is not mountainous, the distance makes it a demanding day, and some walkers split it. The route reaches 19 Ingleby Arncliffe and then 20 Osmotherley, a handsome village at the western edge of the North York Moors.
From Osmotherley the walk climbs back into hill country, joining long stretches of the Cleveland Way across the western North York Moors. The route rises and falls over a succession of ridges and escarpments, including Carlton Bank and Clay Bank, with wide views over Teesside, the Vale of Mowbray, and the moorland ahead. Forest tracks and heather moors alternate with steep pulls and descents. The stage ends at the remote 2 Lion Inn on 21 Blakey Ridge, a famously isolated stop surrounded by open moor.
This shorter stage crosses the high moors before descending into Eskdale. From Blakey Ridge the route follows open tracks and moorland paths across Glaisdale Rigg, where the walking is exposed but straightforward in clear weather. The landscape then softens as the path drops towards the wooded valley around 22 Glaisdale. The final part follows lanes and riverside paths to 23 Egton Bridge, a small settlement known for its stone bridge and riverside setting.
The final stage starts gently, following the River Esk towards 24 Grosmont, where the heritage railway is a popular diversion. A steep climb out of Grosmont leads back onto moorland, with views towards Whitby and the North Sea in good weather. The route then passes through woods and valleys before reaching the coast near 25 Robin Hood’s Bay. The last descent through the village’s narrow streets leads to the beach, where walkers traditionally touch the North Sea and throw in the pebble carried from St Bees.
Stay safe
[edit | edit source]Your main risks are keeping on track and route finding in low cloud, especially in the Lake District. The walk passes close to Seathwaite which has the highest recorded annual rainfall in England so if (when) it rains, having the right waterproofs and walking gear is important.
Go next
[edit | edit source]There are several other long distance walks in the United Kingdom.
- The Pennine Way is a 268-mile walk in northern England.
- The Southern Upland Way is a 212-mile coast to coast walk in southern Scotland.
- The Great Glen Way is a 73-mile walking and cycling route from coast to coast in northern Scotland.

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