El Anillo de Picos

El Anillo de Picos (the Ring of Peaks) is a demanding hut-to-hut hiking circuit in Spain’s Picos de Europa National Park. It links mountain refuges across the park’s limestone massifs and crosses Asturias, Cantabria and Castile and León. The route is for hikers on foot; bicycles, luggage carts and motorized transport are not practical on the mountain sections.

There are three main ways to hike the Anillo. Anillo Vindio is the shorter western-massif circuit. Anillo Extrem continues through the western and central massifs. Anillo Tres Macizos is the full ring, crossing the western Cornión, central Urrieles and eastern Ándara massifs. This itinerary describes the full Tres Macizos route, with the Vindio and Extrem described as alternative branches where they leave the main line.

The full loop is usually walked in 7–9 days. It is roughly 110–115 km long, with about 9 000 m of cumulative ascent. Poncebos is a convenient starting point because it has road access and seasonal bus connections from Arenas de Cabrales.

The Picos de Europa are the westernmost limestone mountains of the Cantabrian range. Their terrain changes quickly from green valleys to pale limestone ridges, deep gorges, sinkholes, scree slopes and alpine meadows. The route passes some of the park’s best-known landscapes, including the Cares Gorge and the base of Picu Urriellu, also called Naranjo de Bulnes.

The Anillo follows old shepherd paths, mountain tracks, mining routes and mountaineering approaches. It links a chain of mountain refuges, allowing hikers to spend several days high in the national park without descending to valley accommodation every night.

The full Tres Macizos route is for experienced mountain hikers. Expect long days, steep descents, loose rock, exposed traverses, awkward limestone and navigation in fog. Some sections are marked with cairns or paint, but the route is not consistently waymarked. In bad weather, route-finding can become serious.

The shorter variants are best understood as branches of the same network:

• Anillo Vindio – the western-massif circuit. It normally uses Vega de Ario, Vegarredonda and Vegabaño, then returns by the Valdeón and Cares side instead of continuing into the central massif.
• Anillo Extrem – the western and central massifs. It continues through Collado Jermoso, Cabaña Verónica and Urriellu, but skips the eastern Ándara loop.
• Anillo Tres Macizos – the full route. It includes the Vindio and Extrem terrain, then adds the eastern Ándara massif.

No hiking permit is normally needed, but hut reservations are strongly recommended and often essential in summer. Book well in advance, especially for July, August and weekends. The refuges are simple mountain shelters, not hotels. Expect shared dormitories, fixed meal times, limited electricity, limited water and basic facilities.

Carry a detailed mountain map, compass and offline GPX track. Do not rely on mobile coverage. A power bank is useful because charging opportunities in refuges may be limited. You must carry your own backpack.

Recommended equipment includes waterproof clothing, warm layers, sun protection, broken-in hiking boots, trekking poles, headlamp, first-aid kit, blister care, emergency blanket, water purification, sleeping-bag liner, earplugs and cash. Early or late in the season, snow may require alpine equipment and experience.

Hikers without high-mountain experience should consider hiring a guide or choosing the Vindio route instead of the full Tres Macizos circuit.

Most staffed refuges offer dinner, breakfast and packed lunches. Dinner is usually simple but filling. Breakfast is generally basic. Order packed lunches when you arrive at the hut, not on the morning of departure.

There are limited chances to resupply in villages such as Bulnes, Sotres, Caín and Posada de Valdeón. Larger towns such as Arenas de Cabrales, Cangas de Onís and Potes have more shops, restaurants and gear services.

If you sleep in staffed refuges, a stove is usually unnecessary. If you camp or use unstaffed shelters, carry food and cooking equipment.

Water is a major planning issue. The Picos are limestone mountains, and water often disappears underground. Reliable water is usually found at refuges and in villages, but not always between them.

Fill up every morning. Carry enough for the whole stage, especially in hot weather. Some springs may be available, but they can be seasonal or dry. Treat wild water with a filter, tablets or boiling.

Use hut water sparingly. Summer droughts and winter freezing can restrict supplies.

The Anillo is built around mountain refuges. Staffed refuges generally provide a bunk, blankets, dinner and breakfast. Bring a sleeping-bag liner. Showers may be absent or limited, and electricity may come from solar panels or generators.

Commonly used refuges include Vega de Ario, Vegarredonda, Vegabaño, Collado Jermoso, Cabaña Verónica, Casetón de Ándara, Vega de Urriellu, Jou de los Cabrones and La Terenosa. Cabaña Verónica and Jou de los Cabrones are especially small and remote.

Wild camping is restricted. Ask the nearest refuge warden where camping is allowed. Do not assume that you can pitch a tent beside every hut. Valley towns have official campsites.

The best season is usually June to September. July and August are busiest and can be hot in the valleys. High passes can still be cold. June and September are quieter, but snow, storms and sudden weather changes are more likely.

Snow can linger in shaded couloirs into early summer. The first autumn snow can arrive in September.

Weather changes fast. Fog, locally called encainada, can reduce visibility to almost nothing. Rain makes limestone slippery. Thunderstorms are dangerous on exposed ridges. Check forecasts and ask refuge wardens for current conditions.

The route lies in a protected national park. Stay on paths where possible. Avoid shortcuts. Do not disturb wildlife. Chamois, raptors and other animals are commonly seen.

Carry out all rubbish. Refuges do not have ordinary waste collection, and supplies often arrive by helicopter, mule, 4×4 or on foot. Use water and electricity sparingly. Do not pick flowers, light fires or leave food waste.

Dogs must be controlled and may be prohibited in some protected areas. Clean mud and seeds from boots and poles before arriving if you have hiked in other regions.

Poncebos is the most common starting point. It is reached by road from Arenas de Cabrales. In high season, private car access and parking around Poncebos may be restricted or crowded. A shuttle bus usually connects Arenas de Cabrales, the Ovar car park, Poncebos, Tielve and Sotres. Check current schedules before travelling.

By public transport, long-distance buses reach Cangas de Onís, Arriondas, Arenas de Cabrales, Unquera and Potes from larger cities such as Oviedo, Santander and Bilbao. Local buses and taxis then connect to trailheads. Services are seasonal and infrequent.

By car, Arenas de Cabrales is the main gateway for Poncebos and the Cares Gorge. Potes and Fuente Dé are useful for the southern and Cantabrian side of the park. Posada de Valdeón and Caín are useful for the León side. Roads are narrow, and parking may be regulated.

The nearest airports are Asturias, Santander and Bilbao. Santander also has ferry connections from the United Kingdom. Trains are useful for reaching northern Spain, but the last leg into the Picos usually requires bus, taxi or car.

The loop can be walked in either direction and from several access points. The stages below start and finish in Poncebos. Distances and times are approximate. Strong hikers may combine some stages, while many walkers should add rest or contingency days.

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Map of El Anillo de Picos

Poncebos to Vega de Ario

 14 km 8–10 hr

From Poncebos, follow the Cares Gorge route at first, then climb steeply toward the western massif by the Canal de Trea or another chosen approach. The ascent is long and exposed to heat. The path eventually reaches the high pastures around Vega de Ario, with wide views toward the central massif.

A side trip to Pico Jultayu gives a spectacular view over the Cares Gorge. Do it only if you have enough time, energy and visibility.

• 43.242-4.8251 Ruta del Cares. Famous gorge path between Poncebos and Caín. The Anillo uses or crosses this corridor on several variants. Check for closures after rockfall, storms or wildfire.  
• 43.2076-4.96521 Refugio Vega de Ario (Refugio Marqués de Villaviciosa) (on the Vega de Ario meadow in the western massif), ☏ +34 656 843 095, [email protected]. Staffed mountain refuge at about 1 630 m. Dormitory accommodation, meals, drinks, blankets and nearby water. Reserve ahead, especially in summer. varies by season and board.  
• 43.1997-4.97851 Pico Jultayu viewpoint. Optional summit viewpoint above the Cares Gorge. The drop is severe. Avoid in fog, storms or high wind.  

Vega de Ario to Vegarredonda

 15.5 km 7–9 hr

This stage traverses rough karst terrain in the western massif. Cairns and painted marks may guide the way, but there can be no clear path for long stretches. Expect limestone pavement, small cols, pastures and scree.

In poor visibility, the route can be confusing. A safer low-visibility alternative may be to descend toward the Covadonga Lakes and approach Vegarredonda by the normal route.

• 43.234405-4.9928652 Refugio Vegarredonda (in the western massif above the Covadonga Lakes). Staffed refuge at about 1 470 m. Dormitory accommodation and meals are available in season. Camping nearby may be restricted or forbidden; ask the warden. varies by season and board.  (updated Jun 2026)
• 43.224184-5.0121242 Mirador de Ordiales. Classic viewpoint above the western massif. Possible as a side trip from Vegarredonda if weather and time allow.  (updated Jun 2026)
• 43.268293-4.9858741 Covadonga Lakes. Possible bad-weather escape or access point below Vegarredonda. Road access is regulated in busy periods.  

Vegarredonda to Vegabaño

 16.8 km 8–10 hr

The route crosses more high limestone before descending toward the greener León side of the park. Depending on the variant, it may pass near Fuente Prieta and Vega Huerta before dropping through beech forest and shepherd country.

The contrast between bare limestone and woodland is one of the pleasures of the western massif. Carry enough water from Vegarredonda because reliable sources are limited.

• 43.226336-4.8930091 Fuente Prieta (on some variants between Vegarredonda and Vegabaño). Seasonal spring sometimes used by hikers. Do not rely on it in dry periods. Treat water if unsure.  (updated Jun 2026)
• 43.169224-5.0088163 Refugio Vegabaño (in a beech-forest clearing above Soto de Sajambre). Staffed refuge at about 1 432 m. Meals and dormitory accommodation are available in season. The woodland setting contrasts with the bare limestone above. varies by season and board.  (updated Jun 2026)
• 43.162778-5.0355561 Soto de Sajambre. Small León-side village below Vegabaño. Possible access or exit point by road.  

Anillo Vindio variant: Vegabaño to Poncebos via Valdeón and the Cares (Alternative)

 25 km 8–10 hr

This branch is the usual way to finish the shorter Anillo Vindio. Instead of climbing from Vegabaño into the central massif, descend toward the Valdeón side, continue to Caín, and return through the Cares Gorge to Poncebos.

This keeps the route mostly in the western massif. It is still a serious hike, but it avoids the high central-massif terrain around Collado Jermoso, Cabaña Verónica, Urriellu and Cabrones.

• 43.151667-4.9194442 Posada de Valdeón. Valley village with accommodation and food. Useful for leaving the route, resting, or continuing toward Caín and the Cares Gorge.  
• 43.213373-4.9055943 Caín. Village at the southern end of the Cares Gorge. Food, drinks and accommodation may be available in season.  

Vegabaño to Collado Jermoso

 19.2 km 9–11 hr

This is one of the hardest stages. The route leaves the forest, descends toward the Valdeón area, then climbs into the central massif. It may pass Cordiñanes and the cliff-cut path of La Rienda before reaching Vega de Asotín and the steep ground below Collado Jermoso.

Start early. Avoid thunderstorms. Do not underestimate the final climb.

• 43.167289-4.90344 Cordiñanes. Small village used on some approaches to Collado Jermoso. Possible exit point to the Valdeón road.  
• 43.172945-4.8690944 Refugio Collado Jermoso (Refugio Diego Mella) (on Collado Jermoso in the central massif). Remote staffed refuge at about 2 064 m. Famous for sunsets and high‑mountain views. Access involves steep and exposed terrain. Reserve ahead. varies by season and board.  

Collado Jermoso to Cabaña Verónica

 5 km 3–4 hr

This is a short but high and rocky stage. From Collado Jermoso, cross the Colladinas and high limestone terrain toward the Liordes and Horcados Rojos area, with the Fuente Dé cable car providing a possible access or exit point nearby. The landscape becomes increasingly barren and lunar.

Cabaña Verónica is one of the most unusual shelters in the Picos. Its size, altitude and exposure make it a serious place to depend on in bad weather.

• 43.17613-4.834185 Cabaña Verónica (near Horcados Rojos in the central massif). Tiny high refuge at about 2 325 m. Very limited bunks, limited water and basic facilities. Reservations are essential. varies by season.  
• 43.185-4.8262 Horcados Rojos. High pass and optional summit area with broad views across the central massif. Attempt side trips only in stable weather.  

Anillo Extrem variant: Cabaña Verónica to Poncebos via Urriellu (Alternative)

 25 km 10–13 hr

This branch is the usual way to turn the route into the Anillo Extrem. Instead of continuing east to Casetón de Ándara, cross the central massif toward Urriellu and descend to Bulnes and Poncebos.

This gives a western‑and‑central‑massif circuit. It includes the hard high terrain of the central massif but skips the eastern Ándara stage.

• 43.201-4.8166 Refugio Vega de Urriellu (Refugio de Urriellu) (below Picu Urriellu / Naranjo de Bulnes). Large and popular staffed refuge at about 1 960 m. Busy with climbers and hikers in summer. Reserve early. varies by season and board.  
• 43.2-4.8166693 Picu Urriellu (Naranjo de Bulnes). Iconic limestone monolith and famous climbing objective. Hikers can admire it from the refuge area. Climbing requires technical skills and equipment.  
• 43.235229-4.8197315 Bulnes. Small roadless mountain village with bars, simple accommodation and funicular access to Poncebos.  

Cabaña Verónica to Casetón de Ándara

 20 km 8–10 hr

This is the stage that turns the Extrem into the full Tres Macizos route. Descend from the high central massif toward the Áliva meadows, then cross toward the eastern massif.

The route mixes stony tracks, old mining paths and open pasture before climbing into Ándara. It is long, and water can be a problem. Carry enough from the morning and check with the warden before leaving Cabaña Verónica.

• 43.167844-4.7751254 Puertos de Áliva. Open high pastures between the central and eastern massifs. A welcome contrast after the bare limestone around Cabaña Verónica.  
• 43.232739-4.7484756 Sotres. High mountain village with bars, restaurants and limited accommodation. Useful for food, drinks, emergency exit or joining the Anillo by road.  
• 43.213984-4.7121557 Refugio Casetón de Ándara (Casetón de Andara) (in the eastern Ándara massif, near old mining remains). Staffed refuge at about 1 725 m in a former mining area. Dormitory accommodation, meals and drinks are available in season. varies by season and board.  (updated Jun 2026)

Casetón de Ándara to Vega de Urriellu

 15 km 7–9 hr

Leave Ándara and cross toward the Cabrales side of the park. Depending on the route, the stage may pass near Sotres or Collado de Pandébano before climbing toward Vega de Urriellu.

The final approach gives dramatic views of Picu Urriellu. Expect more people on this section, especially in summer.

• 43.232739-4.7484757 Sotres. Practical resupply, meal and exit point between Ándara and the Cabrales side of the park.  
• 43.227-4.7875 Collado de Pandébano. Important pass on approaches between Sotres, Bulnes, La Terenosa and Urriellu. Parking and access may be regulated.  
• 43.201-4.8168 Refugio Vega de Urriellu (Refugio de Urriellu) (below Picu Urriellu / Naranjo de Bulnes). Large staffed refuge at about 1 960 m. A key stop for Anillo hikers and climbers on Picu Urriellu. varies by season and board.  
• 43.2-4.8166696 Picu Urriellu (Naranjo de Bulnes). The most famous peak in the Picos de Europa. The hiking route reaches its base, not the summit.  

Vega de Urriellu to Jou de los Cabrones

 6 km 3–4 hr

This shorter stage crosses a high, rough and remote part of the central massif. The route climbs into a pale limestone landscape of sinkholes, chimneys and narrow passages before dropping to Jou de los Cabrones.

Although short, it is not easy. Fog can make route-finding difficult, and the terrain is sharp and awkward.

• 43.2148-4.83329 Refugio Jou de los Cabrones (Refugio José Ramón Lueje) (in Jou de los Cabrones, below Torre Cerredo and Cabrones). Remote staffed refuge at about 2 100 m in a dramatic limestone hollow. Small, basic and exposed to weather. Reserve ahead. varies by season and board.  
• 43.215-4.8357 Torre Cerredo views. The area around Jou de los Cabrones has views toward Torre Cerredo, the highest summit of the Picos de Europa. Summit attempts are mountaineering objectives.  

Jou de los Cabrones to Poncebos

 12 km 6–7 hr

Descend steeply via the Canal de Amuesa toward Bulnes. This is hard on knees and requires concentration. From Bulnes, continue on foot through the Canal del Texu to Poncebos or take Funicular de Bulnes, which linkes Poncebos to Bulnes.

If you arrive late or want to split the descent, La Terenosa can be used as an intermediate stop depending on your route.

• 43.235229-4.8197318 Bulnes. Small roadless mountain village with bars, simple accommodation and funicular access to Poncebos. A practical rest stop before the final descent.  
• 43.2215-4.807810 Refugio La Terenosa (Refugio de la Terenosa) (above Bulnes, on the approach between Pandébano and Urriellu). Small mountain refuge near Bulnes. Useful as an extra night if descending late or splitting the Urriellu–Poncebos section. varies by season.  

This is a serious mountain route. Do not judge its difficulty by distance alone. Daily ascent, rough limestone, heat, fog and exposure make progress slow.

Check current conditions with refuges and the national park before starting. Rockfalls, wildfire damage, snowfields or storms can close or make sections unsafe. The Cares Gorge and high central-massif routes are especially vulnerable to weather and rockfall.

Carry enough water for each day. Dehydration is common in hot weather, and there may be no refill point between refuges. Treat natural water.

Do not walk high stages in thunderstorms or dense fog. If weather deteriorates, stay at the refuge or descend to a valley if safe. Possible exits include Poncebos, Sotres, Valdeón, Liébana, Sajambre and Cabrales.

Emergency number in Spain is ☏ 112. Refuge wardens can help with weather information, route advice and emergency communication. Tell someone your itinerary and expected arrival time each day.

After finishing at Poncebos, return to Arenas de Cabrales by shuttle bus, taxi or car. Arenas has accommodation, restaurants and transport connections toward Cangas de Onís, Oviedo and Santander.

Cangas de Onís is a good base for visiting Covadonga and the lakes. Potes and Fuente Dé give access to the Liébana side of the park.

Nearby hiking options include the Covadonga Lakes circuit, the Ruta del Cares as a day walk, the Fuente Dé cable car and Horcados Rojos area, or shorter day hikes from Sotres and Bulnes. For a cultural change of pace, head to the Cantabrian coast at Llanes or San Vicente de la Barquera, or continue west into Asturias for Oviedo and the Camino Primitivo.