El Impenetrable National Park

El Impenetrable National Park is the largest national park in the Chaco region of northern Argentina. The Chaco is a vast, hot, semi-arid lowland plain. It maintains a good state of conservation and pristine characteristics in many sectors, leading to the survival of abundant large fauna, such as jaguars, tapirs, and anteaters.

It is a large park covering an area of 128,000 hectares.

The park has a grisly history behind it. The park was once part of the vast land holdings in the Chaco owned by Manuel Roseo and operated as Estancia La Fidelidad. Early in 2011, a nefarious con man and serial killer named Luis Raúl "El Gusano" Menocchio plotted to murder Roseo so he could get control of his land. Menocchio forged a fake bill of sale and hired hit men to kill Roseo in his home. Authorities saw through his plot and instead of giving him title to Roseo's lands, they gave him and his accomplices life prison sentences. The lands were then expropriated by the government. The lands are being used as a protected natural area. In 2017, about 128,000 hectares of this land were decreed as the Parque Nacional El Impenetrable.

The park is managed for the federal government by the Administración de Parques Nacionales ̈(National Parks Administration) in cooperation with regional conservation organizations including Fundación Rewilding Argentina and the Tompkins Conservancy.

The landscape is flat with vast grassland savannas, flat alluvial plains with low thorn forests, and scrub woodlands.

The Chaco is a biodiversity hotspot with more than 3,000 cataloged plant species along nearly 500 birds, 150 mammals, and more than 100 reptiles. The types and concentrations of plants and animals changes across the region as the climate transitions from the moist and humid "wet Chaco" in the east to the drier, more arid areas of the "dry Chaco" in the west.

El Impenetrable National Park is in the "dry Chaco" and the predominate landscape is flat, semi-dry grasslands and rocky plains. There are, however, seasonal wetlands that are wet only during a few months of the year, and there are aluvial woodlands along the Rio Bermejo and Rio Bermejito.

Plants include the Quebracho tree, which comes in red and white varieties and was once harvested for tannins; the Carob tree, which is an important food source for both wildlife and local human communities; and Palo Santo, an aromatic tree that is a protected species. Probably the most widespread plant is the vinal, a thorny shrub that aggressively expands its growing area and is regarded as a scourge in most of the country. There are also areas where various cacti and palms can be found.

Three mammals dominate conservation discussions in the parkː jaguars, tapirs, and anteaters. The jaguar is not widely seen due to its secretive habits but is being studied and introduced to the park as part of a rewilding project. The South American tapir is a threatened species that is related to the horse and the rhinoceros. Tapirs are herbivorous but are an important part of the local ecosystem because they spread seeds throughout the region. Jaguars also find them to be quite tasty, as do pumas and the occasional maned wolf, which also thrive in the park.

The park's rewilding projects are also reintroducing species such as guanacos, giant river otters, marsh deer, and pampas deer.

The park's varied landscapes, with grasslands, wetlands, and aluvial forests draws a mix of bird species, including raptors, ground dwellers like the giant rhea, and tree dwellers like songbirds and the red ovenbird (Rufous Hornero), which is Argentina's national bird.

Reptiles include iguanas, anoles, skinks and several kinds of grassland and woodland snakes, including the boa constrictor.

The park has a hot, humid wet season and a mild dry season. The wet season is October to March and has blisteringly hot temperatures (daytime highs of 40°C to 50°C). The winter months of May through September are mild with temperatures of 20°C to 30°C, but this is the driest time of the year so carry plenty of water with you. May to August are the most pleasant times of year to visit.

The closest cities with commercial airports are Corrientes or Resistencia. Both cities are about 5 hours by car from El Impenetrable National Park. The best way to get to the park is by renting a 4WD truck.

If you start in Corrientes, cross the river to Resistencia. Depart Resistencia by driving northwest on National Route RN16 for about 2 hours (177 km) to Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña, Turn north on RN95 towards Juan José Castelli for 1-1/2 hours (116 km). Noteː Google Maps sometimes tells you to take Provincial Route 9 instead of RN16 and RN95. Doing so can save you a few miles but the road is not as well maintained as the federal highways and service stations are more infrequent. Most foreign travelers would be well advised to use the larger, better roads.

Juan Jose Castelli is your last chance to buy gas and supplies. It is also wise to inquire about road conditions into the park as the road is sometimes washed out or impassible even with 4WD.

Once you leave Juan Jose Castelli, you will travel Provincial Road 9 about 40 km to La Armonia where you will turn onto unpaved back roads that are either muddy and washed out by summer rains or dry, dusty and full of potholes by the winter dry season. Either way, you'll be glad you rented the 4WD truck. It is about 60 km to the park ranger station, on the banks of the Rio Bermejo.

There is no entry fee to go into the park, but registration at the park office is mandatory and a pre-advisement (Intendencia) is recommended. There are times when the park is unreachable or conditions make travel ill-advised. Using a local guide is not required, but is highly recommended.

All park visitors must be completely self-sufficient. There is no park store and the nearest source of anything is about 3 hours away by car.

There are some established camping areas in the park as well as local operators offering "glamping" experiences.

There are established campsites with varying amenities and servicesː

• Camping La Fidelidad
• Puerto San Jorge
• Tigre Ñato - rustic campground with some communal facilities (park entrance, Pareja La Armonia)
• Glamping El Bermejito - African style tents on elevated platforms, guided treks, river kayaking (park entrance, Pareja La Armonia)
• Glamping Los Palmares - upscale full-service tour operator provides local cuisine, guided tours and activities (northern portal)

Dispersed backcountry camping is prohibited.

• Río Pilcomayo National Park
• Corrientes