Emas National Park

Emas National Park is in Centre West of Brazil. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site due to its cerrado savannah, which is one of the oldest and most diverse ecosystems in the world.

Emas National Park protects one of the largest and best-preserved expanses of Cerrado savanna in central Brazil. It covers about 132,788 hectares across the municipalities of Mineiros and Chapadão do Céu in Goiás and Costa Rica in Mato Grosso do Sul. Its name refers to the greater rhea—ema in Portuguese—a large flightless bird frequently seen in the park’s open grasslands.

The park forms part of the UNESCO-listed Cerrado Protected Areas, together with Chapada dos Veadeiros National Park. UNESCO recognizes these parks for preserving representative Cerrado habitats and populations of threatened animals such as giant anteaters, giant armadillos, maned wolves, jaguars and pampas deer. The region also contributes to aquifer recharge and feeds watercourses connected with both the Amazon and Paraná–La Plata drainage systems.

The surrounding countryside is dominated by large, highly mechanized farms producing soybeans, maize and other crops. The sudden contrast between natural grassland inside the park and geometric fields outside its boundary is particularly visible from entrance roads and aerial views. Agriculture supports the regional economy but has left Emas increasingly isolated from other natural Cerrado areas. UNESCO describes it as almost completely surrounded by agricultural land and identifies agricultural encroachment, invasive grasses and fires spreading from surrounding areas as continuing management concerns.

Biological-corridor projects seek to maintain links between Emas, the upper Taquari basin, the Pantanal and other Cerrado remnants. These connections are especially important for jaguars, pumas, maned wolves and other animals that move across territories much larger than the park itself.

Emas National Park was created on 11 January 1961 by Decree 49,874. The original decree protected land around the headwaters and upper courses of the Correntes, Aporé and Sucuriú rivers, primarily in Goiás but also extending into what was then the state of Mato Grosso.

Its establishment came during a period when the interior of Brazil was being opened for roads, settlement and agricultural development. At the time, extensive natural grasslands and savannas still covered much of southwestern Goiás. The park was intended to preserve a representative area of this landscape and its wildlife before large-scale farming transformed the region.

The boundaries were revised by Decree 70,375 of 6 April 1972. The revision formally described an area of approximately 100,000 hectares and removed about 50,000 hectares from the original protected territory. Later surveying and boundary adjustments produced the present official area of approximately 132,788 hectares.

During the late 20th century, soybean cultivation and other mechanized agriculture expanded rapidly around the park. Natural Cerrado outside the protected boundary was progressively converted into fields and pasture, increasing concerns about habitat isolation, pesticide drift, invasive plants and escaped agricultural fires.

In 2001, UNESCO inscribed Emas and Chapada dos Veadeiros together on the World Heritage List as the Cerrado Protected Areas. The designation recognized their importance as refuges for rare and endemic species and as examples of the ecological processes that shaped one of the world’s oldest and most biologically diverse tropical ecosystems.

Fire has always been part of Cerrado ecology, but unusually extensive or frequent burns can cause severe damage. A major wildfire in 2010 affected approximately 90% of Emas National Park, emphasizing the need for firebreaks, trained brigades, controlled burning and cooperation with surrounding farms.

Emas lies on the broad, gently rolling Serra dos Caiapós plateau. Unlike Brazil’s more mountainous national parks, most of the terrain is level or only slightly undulating, producing immense horizons and long views across open savanna. Elevations are generally around 700–1,000 m above sea level.

The landscape contains a mosaic of Cerrado habitats. Vast areas of campo limpo consist mainly of grasses and low herbs, while campo sujo has scattered shrubs. Denser cerrado sensu stricto includes twisted, thick-barked trees adapted to seasonal drought, acidic soils and periodic fire. Narrow gallery forests follow rivers and streams, and palm-filled wetlands known as veredas develop around springs and waterlogged ground.

Thousands of termite mounds rise above the grasslands and are among the park’s most distinctive landscape features. During a short period after the first rains, some become illuminated by the green glow of beetle larvae feeding on insects attracted to their light. The mounds also provide shelter and feeding sites for anteaters, armadillos, reptiles and many smaller animals.

The park occupies an important watershed. Streams in and around Emas contribute to the headwaters of the Araguaia–Tocantins, Paraná and Paraguay river systems, linking its uplands ecologically with both the Amazon basin and the Pantanal. UNESCO identifies the area as important for groundwater recharge and for sustaining watercourses beyond the park boundary.

Gallery forests and waterways such as the Formoso River break up the otherwise open terrain. Clear rivers, marshes and seasonal wetlands provide habitat for tapirs, marsh deer, capybaras, waterbirds and aquatic wildlife.

Outside the boundary, the natural savanna gives way abruptly to soybean plantations, maize fields, pasture and farm roads. This sharp edge makes the park resemble an island of native Cerrado within an agricultural landscape and helps explain the emphasis placed on biological corridors and cooperation with neighboring landowners.

Emas National Park shows a typical cerrado ecosystem: a treeless savannah with tall termite mounds and an interesting amount of wildlife: the giant anteater, the maned wolf, giant armadillo, pampas deer, and the greater rhea, among others.

Emas National Park also holds a small jaguar population, perhaps consisting of about 10-12 animals. Only about 40% of the reserve, which covers 1,320 km² (510 sq mi) in total, is good jaguar habitat.

Other larger mammals include puma, ocelot, Brazilian tapir, collared peccary, white-lipped peccary, marsh deer, red brocket, gray brocket, black howler monkey and capybara.

It has a tropical, hot climate, ranging from humid to semi-arid, with up to five months of drought each year.

Chapadão do Céu is the closest municipality to the park, approximately 25 km away. It has services such as banking, mechanics, pharmacists, and mail. Mineiros, the main urban center in the region, 110 km away from the headquarters of the national park is a larger town with medical service.

Admission to Emas National Park is free for all visitors, and ordinary daytime visits do not require advance booking. The park normally opens daily from 8AM to 5PM, although the Bandeira and Jacuba gates close from noon to 1PM. During the seasonal bioluminescence period, opening may be extended until 9PM.

Some activities require advance booking and an accredited environmental guide, including camping, overnight stays, vehicle safaris, rafting, tubing, access to restricted sectors and visits to the observation tower. Special guided activities may be authorized between 5AM and 10PM. The guide, equipment and activity charges are separate from park admission.

Free self-guided trails may be used without a guide where signs and park rules explicitly permit this. Nevertheless, visitors planning a long drive, nighttime visit or specialist wildlife excursion should contact the park beforehand to confirm current access, fire restrictions and seasonal closures. The official contact is +55 64 99972-8176 or parquenacionaldasemas@icmbio.gov.br.

Online scheduling is available through Brazil’s federal conservation-area service for activities that require reservations. Applicants provide their identification, visit date and intended attraction; costs vary according to the selected service.

The park is large and is mainly explored by private vehicle, guided safari vehicle, bicycle or on foot. There is no public transportation between the gates, trails, rivers and visitor areas. Visitors without their own transport should arrange a guided excursion from Chapadão do Céu, Mineiros or Costa Rica.

The generally level plateau makes driving easier than in mountainous national parks, but most internal roads are unpaved. A high-clearance vehicle is advisable, and a 4×4 may be necessary after heavy rain. Carry a spare tyre, tools, drinking water and enough fuel for the complete outing. Do not rely on mobile reception or roadside services.

Self-guided walking is allowed only on designated routes and during permitted hours. Other areas require an accredited guide for safety and conservation reasons. Wildlife can be observed from both the road and authorized walking trails, but visitors should leave the vehicle only where park staff or signs permit it.

Cyclists may bring their own bicycle, and rental bicycles have traditionally been available around the Bandeira and Jacuba gates. The Jacubinha and Formoso–Glória routes provide access to streams and river scenery, although current rental availability and trail conditions should be checked before arrival.

Guided safari vehicles can carry groups through a broader section of the park. Official visitor information describes excursions lasting as long as eight hours, accompanied by a guide. Allow a full day rather than trying to cross the park quickly.

The park protects an exceptionally complete sample of the Cerrado, including open grassland, scrubby savanna, wetlands, palm-lined veredas and gallery forest. Its broad, nearly level plateaus provide expansive views that are unusual in more densely wooded Brazilian parks.

Wildlife commonly sought by visitors includes greater rheas, giant anteaters, maned wolves, pampas deer, marsh deer, tapirs and crab-eating foxes. Jaguars, pumas, giant armadillos and other threatened species are present but much more difficult to see. Early morning and late afternoon usually provide the best viewing.

Thousands of large termite mounds rise across the grasslands and are among the park’s most characteristic sights. Around October and November, depending on rain and insect activity, some mounds become covered in greenish points of light produced by beetle larvae that attract flying prey. This celebrated bioluminescence is visible after nightfall and should be visited through an authorized guided excursion.

The Rio Formoso and other protected waterways provide a contrast to the dry grasslands, with clear water, rapids, riparian vegetation and wildlife tracks along their banks. The park also protects streams connected with the Taquari and Araguaia river basins.

An observation tower and selected viewpoints provide elevated views over the Cerrado. Access to the tower requires an accredited guide, and availability may depend on staffing, weather and maintenance.

Take a wildlife drive through the open grasslands, where large mammals and birds are generally easier to spot than in dense forest. A guided safari is particularly useful for locating maned wolves, giant anteaters and less obvious bird species.

Walk one of the park’s free self-guided trails, remaining within the marked area and permitted hours. Move quietly and examine the smaller features of the Cerrado, including wildflowers, insects, tracks and the numerous termite mounds.

Go cycling on designated roads and trails. The predominantly level terrain is well suited to longer rides, although heat, dust, wind and the absence of shade can make cycling tiring. Bring repair equipment and more water than expected.

Join an authorized boat or floating excursion on the Rio Formoso. Guided rafting trips last approximately two hours and may include opportunities to enter the water at places selected by the instructor. A faster tubing or boia-cross descent uses a section with stronger rapids and lasts approximately 40 minutes. Both activities require an approved operator and appropriate safety equipment.

Arrange a nighttime visit during the bioluminescence season. The spectacle is dependent on rainfall, insect life cycles and darkness, so exact dates and intensity cannot be guaranteed. Confirm the season with the park or a local guide rather than organizing a trip solely around an old calendar.

The park is also excellent for birdwatching, nature photography and stargazing. Large open areas support rheas, seriemas, raptors and threatened grassland birds, while the limited artificial lighting produces dark night skies.

Shopping inside the park is very limited. There is no dependable general store, fuel station, pharmacy or permanent souvenir shop serving every visitor sector. Purchase food, water, medicines, sunscreen, insect repellent and other supplies in Chapadão do Céu, Mineiros or Costa Rica before entering.

Authorized vendors may sell food, drinks or limited local products at Espaço Formoso, particularly during events and busier periods. A restaurant, camping infrastructure and additional bathrooms were developed there, but ICMBio notes that demand is seasonal and food service may not operate permanently. Do not arrive without your own provisions unless service has been confirmed.

Locally produced Cerrado honey, preserves, handicrafts and regional foods may be available in the surrounding towns. Do not buy animals, feathers, eggs, plants, skins or anything claimed to have been collected within the national park.

Food service inside Emas National Park is limited and may be seasonal or event-based. Espaço Formoso has a restaurant structure designed for authorized food vendors, but ICMBio has stated that the park does not yet receive enough visitors to guarantee permanent operation. Confirm current opening before relying on it.

Most day visitors should bring a packed breakfast or lunch, snacks and emergency food from Chapadão do Céu, Mineiros or Costa Rica. Guided operators may provide meals or packed lunches as part of a safari, river trip or camping package.

Store food inside closed containers and never feed wildlife. Rheas, foxes and other animals may become dangerous or dependent on people when deliberately fed. Remove all packaging, food scraps and other rubbish from the park. Authorized food providers are required to manage their waste and may not feed or disturb wildlife.

Bring enough drinking water for the entire visit, with an additional emergency supply for delays or vehicle trouble. The exposed grasslands can become extremely hot, and many routes provide little shade.

Do not rely on purchasing bottled water inside the park. Non-alcoholic drinks may be sold by authorized vendors at Espaço Formoso when food service is operating, but availability is not guaranteed.

Water from the Rio Formoso, streams or park taps should not be consumed unless staff confirm that it has been treated. Natural water should be filtered and disinfected or boiled before drinking.

Alcohol is inappropriate before driving, cycling, rafting, tubing or wildlife activities. Authorized food sales described by ICMBio are limited to food and non-alcoholic beverages.

There is no conventional hotel or lodge inside Emas National Park. Most visitors stay in Chapadão do Céu, Mineiros or Costa Rica and enter the park on a day trip or as part of a prearranged guided excursion.

Chapadão do Céu is the closest practical base for the Bandeira entrance and usually offers the shortest morning transfer. Mineiros has a larger range of urban services and is convenient for the Jacuba entrance, while Costa Rica is useful for approaching the park from Mato Grosso do Sul.

Visitors planning an overnight stay within the protected area must arrange it beforehand with an ICMBio-authorized guide. The park specifically lists overnight stays and camping among the activities requiring an accredited guide for safety and conservation reasons.

Hotels, small guesthouses and rental accommodation are available in the surrounding towns. Chapadão do Céu is generally the most convenient base for wildlife drives, bioluminescence excursions and activities around the Rio Formoso. Mineiros is farther away but has a broader selection of shops, restaurants, vehicle services and accommodation.

ICMBio’s visitor page lists Pousada do Glória, beside the road connecting Chapadão do Céu and Costa Rica, as an accommodation option near the park. It also lists several hotels in Mineiros and Chapadão do Céu, but travellers should confirm that individual properties are still operating and verify current rates and road access before travelling.

Accommodation near the park may be simple and have limited mobile reception. Confirm whether meals, drinking water, air conditioning, mosquito screens and guided transfers are included.

A designated camping area operates within the park’s visitor structure, with toilets, changing facilities, environmental-education space and picnic shelters reported around the Costa Rica and Rio Formoso sector. Camping is not an informal drop-in activity: visitors must book beforehand and be accompanied by an authorized environmental guide.

Bring a suitable tent, sleeping mat, warm layer, rain protection, insect repellent, headlamp, drinking water and all necessary food. Confirm whether cooking areas, showers, electricity, firewood or refrigeration are available rather than assuming that they will be provided.

The open Cerrado offers little protection from wind, intense sun or thunderstorms. Do not pitch a tent beneath isolated trees during lightning, beside a watercourse that may rise after rain, or outside the area identified by the guide.

Campfires may be prohibited because of wildfire risk. Use only authorized cooking equipment and follow all instructions from ICMBio and the guide. Carry every piece of rubbish out of the park.

There is no unrestricted backcountry-camping system. Overnight stays away from the established visitor area require explicit authorization, an accredited guide and a route approved by park management. Some sectors are restricted for wildlife protection, scientific research, fire management or visitor safety.

Do not leave the road or establish a wilderness camp independently. The landscape may appear open, but tall grass, wetlands and gallery forest can conceal wildlife, holes, streams and changing terrain. Mobile reception is unreliable, and rescue assistance may be far away.

An authorized expedition should be self-sufficient in food, drinking water, shelter, navigation, first aid and emergency communications. Avoid contaminating natural water sources, disturbing termite mounds or approaching wildlife resting near a proposed campsite.

The park is remote and has long stretches without fuel, shops, medical care or dependable mobile reception. Begin with a full tank, carry a spare tyre, tools, food and substantially more drinking water than expected. Tell the guide or accommodation which route is planned and when the group expects to return.

Activities such as overnight stays, camping, safaris, boating, tubing and access to particular areas require an authorized guide. Follow the guide’s instructions and remain within the permitted area and operating hours.

Wild animals include jaguars, pumas, maned wolves, tapirs, giant anteaters, wild pigs and several species of deer. Most avoid people, but they should never be followed, surrounded or approached for photographs. Remain inside the vehicle unless the guide identifies a safe place to leave it, and never feed wildlife.

Giant anteaters have poor eyesight but powerful claws and may defend themselves when surprised or cornered. Give them ample room, particularly females carrying young. Avoid walking through tall grass without a guide, where animals and venomous snakes may be difficult to see.

The exposed Cerrado becomes hot, dry and intensely sunny. Carry a hat, sunscreen and sufficient water, and schedule strenuous activities for the cooler morning or late afternoon. Heat exhaustion and dehydration can develop even when travelling mainly by vehicle.

The dry season generally extends from June through September, when vegetation can burn rapidly. Fires may be caused by human activity or lightning, particularly around the transition into the rainy season. Obey closures, never discard cigarettes and leave immediately when instructed by park staff or firefighters.

During the rainy season, sudden thunderstorms can bring lightning, strong wind, mud and rapidly rising streams. Avoid isolated trees and observation towers during electrical storms. Unpaved roads can become slippery or temporarily impassable, so check conditions before entering.

Use insect repellent and covering clothing against mosquitoes, ticks and other biting insects. Brazil’s Ministry of Health recommends yellow-fever vaccination for travellers visiting areas where vaccination is advised, normally at least ten days before travel.

Do not drink untreated water from rivers, streams or park taps. Wear a life jacket during boating, floating or tubing activities and enter the Rio Formoso only where the authorized instructor permits it.

• Chapadão do Céu — The nearest base to the Bandeira gate, with accommodation, restaurants, supermarkets and guides serving the park. It is the most convenient place to organize a wildlife drive or seasonal bioluminescence excursion.
• Mineiros — The main gateway to the Jacuba entrance and the largest service centre near the Goiás side of the park. It offers hotels, shops, mechanics, banks and onward road connections.
• Costa Rica — A Mato Grosso do Sul ecotourism centre about 47 km from the Bandeira side of the park, with accommodation, agencies and additional waterfalls, rivers and outdoor attractions.
• Parque Estadual das Nascentes do Rio Taquari — A protected landscape of cliffs, canyons, springs, Cerrado vegetation and archaeological sites between Costa Rica and Alcinópolis. Entry is through guided visits arranged in advance.
• Serranópolis — A town west of Mineiros known for rocky hills, waterfalls, caves and important archaeological shelters associated with early human occupation of the Cerrado.
• Alcinópolis — A useful continuation toward northern Mato Grosso do Sul, with rock-art sites, caves and access to the wider Nascentes do Rio Taquari landscape. Visits to archaeological areas should be made with authorized local guides.