Etosha National Park

Etosha National Park is the second largest of Namibia's game reserves (after Namib-Naukluft National Park). It spans 20,000 km² in the Four-O region. The park surrounds the dry Etosha salt pan. The waterholes surrounding the pan attract animals, particularly in the drier winter months, because it is a source of water in a very dry land.

Its name means "big white place", referring to the Etosha Salt Pan.

All facilities inside the park are run by Namibia Wildlife Resorts, a company owned by the Namibian Government.

Etosha National Park is more than a century old and is one of Africa’s best-known wildlife reserves. Its protected history began in 1907, when the German colonial administration proclaimed the vast area surrounding the Etosha Pan as Game Reserve No. 2. The original reserve covered close to 100,000 km², extended westward toward the Skeleton Coast, and was among the largest game reserves in the world. Today, Namibia’s government regards Etosha as the country’s flagship national park and leading wildlife destination.

Long before the reserve was established, the region was inhabited and used by Indigenous communities, particularly the Hai||om, who hunted and gathered around the pan and its waterholes. Ovambo and Otjiherero-speaking peoples also lived in the surrounding region. The Hai||om initially continued living within the reserve, but colonial and later South African conservation policies progressively restricted their access. Most were eventually removed, while only some park employees were permitted to remain. This displacement remains an important and sensitive part of Etosha’s history.

Etosha’s boundaries changed repeatedly during the 20th century as land was removed for farms, settlements and the territorial policies of the colonial and apartheid administrations. The protected area became Etosha Game Park in 1958 and received full national park status in 1967. By the early 1970s, it had been reduced to roughly 22,000 km², less than a quarter of its original extent, and the present park was enclosed by a perimeter fence in 1973.

Despite these reductions, Etosha remains one of Africa’s largest and most important protected areas. The immense salt pan, historic waterholes and concentration of wildlife have made the park internationally famous, while long-running research and conservation programmes have helped protect species such as elephants, lions and black rhinoceroses. The Etosha Pan and its surrounding ecosystem have been legally protected since 1907.

Etosha National Park is dominated by the immense Etosha Pan, a flat salt-and-clay basin that stretches across much of the park’s eastern and central regions. For most of the year, the pan is completely dry, forming a pale, dusty expanse that shimmers in the heat and can appear almost endless. After particularly good summer rains, shallow water may spread across portions of the pan, temporarily transforming the barren surface into a vast wetland.

The pan itself supports little permanent wildlife when dry, but the surrounding springs, boreholes and waterholes are among the park’s most important features. During the long dry season, animals must gather around these limited water sources, producing some of southern Africa’s most rewarding and accessible wildlife viewing. Several rest camps have floodlit waterholes where visitors can watch animals after sunset.

Beyond the pan, the landscape includes open grasslands, thorn scrub, dry savanna and broad areas of mopane woodland. Low limestone ridges, shallow depressions and scattered acacia trees add variety, while the western part of the park is generally more remote and densely vegetated. The combination of exposed plains and sparse woodland makes wildlife comparatively easy to spot from the main roads.

Etosha supports abundant wildlife adapted to its arid environment. Springbok, plains zebra, blue wildebeest, giraffe, warthog and the distinctive black-faced impala are frequently seen, often in large numbers along the roads or around waterholes. Other common herbivores include kudu, gemsbok, red hartebeest, steenbok, dik-dik and eland.

Large herds of elephants are regularly encountered, particularly during the dry season, when they may dominate busy waterholes. Both black and white rhinoceroses occur in the park, although the black rhinoceros is more strongly associated with Etosha and is sometimes seen at floodlit waterholes after dark.

The park also supports healthy populations of lions, leopards and cheetahs. Lions are the most frequently seen of the large predators, while leopards and cheetahs require more patience and careful searching. Spotted hyenas, black-backed jackals, bat-eared foxes, honey badgers, mongooses and several smaller carnivores are also present.

Birdlife is especially rich after rain, when temporary pools form on and around the pan. Flamingos, pelicans and other waterbirds may arrive when conditions are suitable, while ostriches, secretarybirds, kori bustards, vultures, eagles and numerous smaller savanna species can be seen throughout the year.

African buffalo are absent from Etosha, unlike many other major southern African parks. The dry environment and limited permanent surface water are poorly suited to sustaining large buffalo populations.

Etosha National Park has a hot, semi-arid climate with large differences between daytime and nighttime temperatures. The year is divided broadly into a dry winter season and a hot summer rainy season. Sunshine is abundant throughout the year, but temperatures can be extreme, particularly on the exposed plains surrounding the salt pan.

The dry season, from roughly May to October, brings clear skies, very little rain and cooler conditions. Days are usually warm and pleasant, while nights from June to August can become surprisingly cold and may approach freezing. As natural water sources disappear, animals gather around the park’s permanent and artificial waterholes, making this the most reliable season for general wildlife viewing.

The rainy season, usually from November to April, is hot and humid, with daytime temperatures commonly exceeding 35°C. Rain normally falls as brief but heavy thunderstorms rather than continuous showers. Rainfall is unpredictable: some years bring enough water to partially flood the Etosha Pan, while in drier years it remains largely empty. Roads may become muddy after storms, although rain often passes quickly.

During the wet season, the landscape turns green, animals disperse away from the permanent waterholes and many give birth. Migratory birds arrive in large numbers, and when sufficient water reaches the pan and nearby Fischer’s Pan, flamingos, pelicans and other waterbirds may appear. This season is particularly rewarding for birdwatching and photography, although wildlife can be harder to locate than during the dry months.

The options are to take your own vehicle (hire or owned), to join a tour, or to fly on a charter.

Visitors are not permitted to walk in the park outside of a vehicle (except in the enclosed camping/hotel areas) on foot. Although it is possible to fly to one of the camps or lodges and take day-safari trips from the lodge.

If you are driving, the B1 from either Oshakati or Tsumeb) brings you to the park's eastern gate at Namutoni. The C38, from Outjo bring you to the park's southern gate.

Safari companies operate from Windhoek and Swakopmund and offer tours of varying length in Etosha. Old maps might show the western part of the park as 'closed for private travellers' but this is no longer true.

Entry fees are $80 per person per day, and $10 per vehicle per day.

The process to enter is bureaucratic. You fill in the paperwork at the gate, fill in your entry details, and then take it to an administration office at the camp to pay. You can buy multi-day tickets as long as they are for consecutive days. You can expect this process to take up to an hour during the busy season by the time you wait at the gate and again queue at the administration office. Credit cards and cash are accepted. You will need to show this paperwork each time you enter and exit the park.

As mentioned above, you need a vehicle to get around the park. The roads are all well-graded gravel, so there is no need to have a four-wheel drive. Since the dust generated by traffic is damaging to the environment, the speed limit is 60 km/h (37 mph). Crossing Etosha from east to west takes the better part of a day.

Be careful when driving on gravel roads especially when braking as there is very little traction available and one can skid very easily. There is fuel available in the camps and at just outside the park gates. All the fuel stations accept credit and debit cards.

• Animals are the main attraction. Wildlife can be encountered throughout Etosha National Park, but the best and most reliable viewing is usually around its numerous natural and artificial waterholes, particularly during the dry season. Springbok, zebra, wildebeest, giraffes, elephants and antelope often gather in large numbers, while lions, hyenas and other predators may wait nearby. Etosha’s waterholes are internationally known for their accessible game viewing, and the open terrain around the pan makes animals comparatively easy to spot from a vehicle.
• The immense Etosha Pan is itself one of the park’s defining sights. For most of the year it appears as a flat, white expanse stretching toward the horizon, with heat haze creating striking mirages. After sufficient summer rain, shallow water may cover parts of the pan and attract flamingos, pelicans and other waterbirds. The viewpoints along its southern edge provide some of the best panoramas.
• The three principal rest camps—Okaukuejo, Halali and Namutoni—have floodlit waterholes just beyond their perimeter fences. Guests can sit safely inside the camps and continue watching wildlife after the park roads close at sunset. Bring a drink, warm clothing and binoculars, then settle in quietly: animals may arrive to drink, socialize, challenge rivals or cautiously avoid predators well into the night.
• The Okaukuejo waterhole is the most famous and can produce exceptional sightings of elephants, lions and black rhinoceroses, particularly after dark. Its seating area is only a short walk from the resort’s rooms and campsite, making repeated visits easy.
• At Halali, the floodlit waterhole lies among dolomite hills and mopane woodland. It is quieter and more enclosed than Okaukuejo, and patient visitors may see rhinos, elephants, hyenas and smaller nocturnal animals emerging from the shadows.
• Namutoni’s King Nehale Waterhole can be viewed from the historic fort area. The eastern side of the park is also close to Fischer’s Pan, an especially rewarding area for birdwatching when rain creates temporary wetlands.
• In western Etosha, Olifantsrus has a waterhole-viewing facility and offers a less crowded experience than the central camps. The remote area around Dolomite Resort contains numerous waterholes, with rhinoceroses sometimes seen around Klippan.

What else to do then see the wildlife! From every hotel there are possibilities to do a game drive, be sure to bring your binoculars as some animals (like lions or cheetahs) can only be watched when distance is kept. Also when close to animals be very quiet, most animals will be scared by the slightest noise.

The best time to easily see a lot of wildlife is in the afternoon around 15:30, be aware that the gates are closed to the park and to the camps at sunset. During the dry season the waterholes viewed from each of the camps offer good wildlife viewing. Wildlife tend not to come to the waterholes during the wet.

A good map that has all the water holes that tells you where to see the animals you may want to see. You can also download from the parks site before you travel.

Food is available at restaurants and kiosks in the camps. However, stocks are limited, and it's a monopoly provider. So you won't starve, but you will be paying a little over the odds for below par food. Also the opening hours are around mealtimes, so if you get into camp mid-afternoon hoping for some lunch you may be out of luck.

Drinks are available mainly at the park’s rest camps and lodges. Okaukuejo and Namutoni have bars, kiosks and shops, while Onkoshi has a combined restaurant and bar. Halali has a tourist shop where basic drinks and groceries can be purchased.

Camp bars generally serve beer, wine, spirits, soft drinks, tea and coffee. Selection may be limited and prices higher than in towns outside the park, so travelers wanting particular beverages should purchase them in Outjo, Tsumeb, Grootfontein or another larger town before entering.

Carry plenty of drinking water on every game drive, particularly during the hot season. Distances between camps and services can be considerable, and visitors may spend most of the day away from shops. Campsites at Halali have water connections, but availability and taste can vary; ask staff whether water from a particular tap is suitable for drinking and use sealed bottled or properly treated water when uncertain.

Never drink from wildlife waterholes or other untreated natural sources. Alcohol should be consumed only after driving for the day has ended—wildlife, dust and animals crossing the road require drivers to remain fully alert. A drink beside one of the floodlit camp waterholes can be an enjoyable way to end the evening, provided camp rules are followed.

There are five designated rest camps for visitors, enclosed by walls and fences. Namutoni, Halali and Okaukejo have camping, and most offer petrol stations, pools and shops for those things you forgot. The gates for camps open at sunrise and close at sunset. You are not allowed outside of a camp during night. Bush camping is not permitted. All lodges and campsites inside of the park can be booked through Namibia Wildlife Resorts.

• Namutoni (around 20km from the east gate of the park on a tarred road). This is on the site of an old German fort which was burned down many years ago in a raid by the Ovambo people from the north. Today the fort is a hotel. There is also a shop where you can buy food and basic supplies and a restaurant and bar. There is a small museum here. Nice camp to walk around and watch the mongoose. 
• Halali (South of the pan and situated about half way between the other two eastern camps). This has the most impressive floodlit water hole with a viewing platform - you can walk down after setting up camp and sit here at sunset, drink a sundowner and watch the animals come down to drink. Being away from the edges of the park, this camp is at its busiest during the lunchtime rush. It probably the least attractive of the camps, with the most basic accommodation, but it has the largest pool. 
• Okaukuejo (around 20km from the south entrance to the park on tarred road). There are small huts available, as well as a restaurant and pool. Be sure to have a look at the waterhole around midnight, you can often see rhinos even during wet season. This has the best layout among all the camps and the best waterhole for sitting down and watching animals. The camp itself is attractive, and the accommodation is pleasant. 
• Dolomite Camp (at the western entrance to the park). It is a camp that is fairly new and offers luxury accommodation full board. The camp is situated on the top of a Koppie. 
• Onkoshi (in the northeast corner of the park). This camp is located on the edge of the Etosha pan and features fifteen huts built on elevated wooden decks. 

There is other accommodation available near the park gates. This is often superior in quality and better value. You can take game drives into the park - but you should factor in the time taken to enter the park. Up to 10-15 km from the South Gate there are a number of lodges (Eldorado Lodge, Etosha Safari Camp, Etosha Safari Lodge, Taleni Etosha Village) along the C38 highway. Only a few hundred meters from the North Gate next to the D3646 highway is the location of the Etosha King Nehale lodge.

Onguma is a separate area to the east of the park, offering accommodation and wildlife of its own.

Stay in your car; wild animals can be dangerous. There are plenty of picnic spots around the park where one can alight from your vehicle, but these are not all fenced so be on the lookout for animals. If you are concerned about breaking down within the park, you can take the number of one of the tow-out services, or the numbers of rest camps. The main road through the park sees regular traffic, but some of the loop roads are very lightly trafficked. Stay to the main routes if you are concerned.

At night, jackals may walk around your campsite, they will usually flee when they see you but be careful, some jackals carry rabies.

Although all campsites are fenced, do not sleep outside, especially not on the benches surrounding the waterholes. The fence is not high there and not really an obstacle for a lion.

Etosha is in a low-risk malaria zone. You should take medical advice before you travel and appropriate precautions.

Northeast of Etosha the Caprivi Strip offers more game parks and is en route to the Victoria Falls. On the way is the town of Tsumeb, where you can stop to visit the Tsumeb Museum, home of interesting mineral specimens such as dioptase from the local Tsumeb Mine, as well as the Helvi Mpingana Kondombolo Cultural Village for exhibits on various Namibian villages and ways of life. Two unique features about Tsumeb are that in the surrounding area are three sinkholes with uncharted depths due to subterranean laterite cave systems at the bottom, and secondly that the presence of the largest meteorite in the world, Hoba, weighing in at about 60 tons, is located in a site developed for tourism about 40 minutes southeast of the town.

You could stock up and stay overnight here, too, since it's a long way across the Central Plateau.