Swakopmund



Aerial view of Swakopmund

Swakopmund, known as Swakop, is in the Erongo region of Namibia. It is the country's biggest coastal town and a resort for Namibians on holiday. The city's German origins are quite pronounced in beautiful old German colonial buildings throughout the city, making an even starker contrast for this town sitting at the edge of the Namib Desert. Swakopmund is like a German North Sea town with an African flair (or vice versa).

Understand[edit]

History[edit]

The first European explorers of the area, Dutchmen Sebastian van Reenen and Pieter Pienaar described the area in 1793 as one with lush vegetation and elephants and rhinos. Nowadays the area can be described as ocean on one side and desert on the other, with some shrubs as the only natural vegetation. About a century after the Dutch exploration, the area was a colony of the German Empire, and was chosen as a second port for German South West Africa after Lüderitz. Walvis Bay would have been much better suitable but it was already in the hands of the British when the Germans established their colony.

The architects decided that Swakopmund should resemble the German homeland as much as possible, wherefore the city now looks as it does. The boom period of the city continued until the outbreak of World War I. This interrupted the construction of the massive pier, nowadays one of the city's main sights. After the war, the colony was taken over by the Union of South Africa, and all trade was done via Walvis Bay, which was now no longer foreign territory. Swakopmund declined but from the 1930s established itself as a resort town, helped by its pleasant climate and the abundance of fish in the ocean. Today it's the fourth most populous city in the country, with 45,000 residents (as of 2011), and popular among domestic and foreign holidaymakers and pensioners. It still has a sizeable German community.

Swakopmund
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Climate[edit]

Swakopmund has a mild desert climate, with the temperature varying little during the year. The town sees only about 20 mm of rain around the year; instead thick fog is a frequent occurrence. This is also why the Namibian coast is infamous for its shipwrecks. In addition to bringing needed moisture for the vegetation, the fog is also liable to lower the temperature to below +10°C in the winter.

Watch[edit]

Swakopmund was used as the setting for The Village in the 2008 production of The Prisoner by AMC and ITV. Its quaint buildings and unusual appearance made a perfect replacement for Portmeirion where the original 1960s series of The Prisoner was set.

Get in[edit]

Map
Map of Swakopmund

By car[edit]

The best way to get to Swakopmund is by road from Windhoek. The B2 is the main road from Windhoek (362 km inland), and takes 4–5 hours by car. Walvis Bay, the closest major city, is 35 km to the south, also next to the B2. The road is paved and in good condition.

From elsewhere, you need to take a "C"-road. C34 goes north along the coast from Skeleton Coast National Park, and is a dangerous drive due to the aforementioned thick fog. There are also two roads that are more of dirt tracks, but interesting if you want to see some of the Namibian outback and have a 4WD vehicle; C28 coming in from Windhoek via the Namib-Naukluft National Park and C14 connecting to Walvis Bay.

By plane[edit]

Swakopmund does have an airport, but it's just used by the local skydiving club and for some charter flights. The closest airport for with passenger traffic is 35km away near Walvis Bay, and you can fly there from Johannesburg and Cape Town with South African Airways. Some hotels and guest houses will provide a shuttle service to/from the Walvis Bay airport. Otherwise, there are a couple of local shuttle services — The Flying Coffee Pot ( +264 811 287455) and Raiwin Shuttle Service ( +264 81 273 9309) — that do the trip between Swakopmund and the airport for around N$200. Bookings can be made through the shuttle service's website.

If you have more money to spend, there are numerous small aircraft charter operators in Namibia, and flying from destination to destination on a tour through Namibia is an effective way to minimize the time spent travelling the long distances.

By minibus[edit]

Minibuses operate from Windhoek almost every 2-3 hours, ask the taxi drivers where the buses leave. There are multiple minibus ranks in Windhoek for different destinations, so make sure you find the right one. For about N$120 you can have a ride in an minibus. The ride will take about 4-6 hours. Pay immediately and try to get yourself a seat next to the driver for a bit more space.

By bus[edit]

B2 between Swakopmund and Walvis Bay

Although the minibuses are slightly cheaper and are an experience, they have no fixed time schedule and are often overloaded. So check out these operators:

  • Intercape operates a service from Windhoek via Okahandja. Intercape service also extends to South Africa and Zimbabwe.
  • Econolux Tel +264 64 205935.
  • Town Hoppers Shuttle Service - Based in Swakopmund, they travel daily at 08:00 from Swakopmund and 14:30 from Windhoek. This is a mini bus, 14 seater, air conditioned bus with all necessary insurances. Friendly and helpful drivers and office staff. You can contact them - +264 64 407223 or [email protected]

By train[edit]

The StarLine service between Windhoek and Walvis Bay has in the past run on weekdays. Checks should be made to see if active at time of travel. Trains leave Windhoek in the evening and arrive in Swakopmund early in the morning, if they are on time. Bring a jacket, as it can get quite cold in the night. There is a first and second class - with little difference between the two - but no sleeper. This is a mixed train where the single passenger car is treated like any other piece of cargo. Expect to be awoken several times during the night as the trains stops to pick up or drop off carriages.

By ship[edit]

Occasionally cruise liners visit Walvis Bay, and passengers may take a tour to Swakopmund.

On a tour or safari[edit]

Swakopmund is a frequent one or two night stop on most tours around Namibia. There are many tour operator doing tours both from Namibia and from outside, such as South Africa.

Get around[edit]

As with other Namibian cities, there is no public transport in Swakopmund. But the city is small enough to get around easily on foot. All the major attractions and facilities are in the centre. It´s hard to get a taxi in city centre (there are no taxis on a Saturday after 19:00), but once you get one it takes you wherever you want for the same rate as the Windhoek Taxis. A trip to Walvis Bay shouldn´t be more than N$40.

See[edit]

Architecture[edit]

No, this isn't the Baltic Sea beach. It's the Woermannhaus in Swakopmund
The Lutheran church

Much of the downtown is built in early 20th-century German style.

  • 1 Woermannhaus, Bismarck Street. A German half-timbered house in the colors of the desert with a 25m high tower and arcaded inner yard. Built by the German trading company Woermann in 1905 as their headquarters for German Southwest Africa. In 1972 the building was declared a national historic landmark and nowadays it functions as a public library.
  • 2 Swakopmund Jetty. Jutting 300 m out in the Atlantic Ocean. Originally it was smaller and built out of wood. Later on, the current concrete jetty was built, but after WWI it fell into disuse. Renovated in 2005, it is a popular attraction, especially for viewing the sunset.
  • 3 Old railway station and casino, Bahnhof Street. Built in the Wilhelminian style in 1902 as a railway station for the new line to Windhoek, it nowadays hosts the Swakopmund Hotel, exhibition centre and casino.
  • 4 Altes Gefängnis. Built in 1909, it still functions as a prison. However, it's built in the same style as much as the rest of downtown (much prettier than a modern prison) and has been a national historic landmark since 1973. Altes Gefängnis (Q439210) on Wikidata Altes Gefängnis on Wikipedia
  • 5 Haus Hohenzollern, Moltke and Brücken street. An Art Nouveau building constructed in 1906 as a luxurious hotel, today it is an apartment building.
  • 6 State House (Kaiserliches Bezirksgericht), Am Zoll Street. Built as a courthouse in 1902, nowadays it is the Swakopmund residence of the Namibian president.
  • 7 Lutheran Church. Built by the Germans in 1912, this Evangelical-Lutheran church is another building which looks like it has been transplanted from somewhere in Germany.
  • 8 Barracks (Kaserne), Bismarck Street. Built in 1903 as housing for the troops of the engineer corps who constructed much of the early infrastructure. The lobby is decorated with German coats of arms. Nowadays the building functions as a youth hostel.
  • 9 Lighthouse. The 25.6m-high lighthouse is one of the most visible buildings in the city.

Museums[edit]

"Martin Luther", standing where it once broke down
  • 10 Kristall Galerie (Crystal Gallery), corner of Tobias Hainyeko and Theo-Ben Gurirab Ave, +264 64 406080. M-Sa 09:00-17:00. The world's largest quartz crystal and many other gems and minerals are on display. The gallery also has two shops where you can buy some crystals as souvenirs. N$20.
  • 11 Martin Luther Steam Engine, Hwy B2. A road locomotive abandoned in the desert just outside Swakopmund. Imported in 1896 to pull freight in the region, replacing oxens, it wasn't even able to travel the way from the port of Walvis Bay to Swakopmund, where it was supposed to be based, before breaking down in the desert. It was left there and soon became an odd attraction. It has been renovated a couple of times, and a protective building was built around it.
  • 12 The National Marine Aquarium of Namibia, Strand St (near the corner of Swakop St & Strand). Tu-Su 10:00-16:00. Rays, turtles, sharks and other marine life can be seen here. There is a daily feeding at 15:00. N$30.
  • 13 Swakopmund Museum, Strand St (between the beach and lighthouse), +264 64 402695. 10:00-17:00. The largest private museum in the country, founded in 1951. It showcases the cultural and natural history of the region from prehistoric time to the colonial period. Included among the exhibits is a reconstructed 19th-century chemist shop, a dentist's practice and an old household. N$30 adults, N$10 children.

Monuments[edit]

  • 14 The Marine Monument. Memorial to the German soldiers who died during the campaign against the Herero People between 1904-07.
  • 15 Monument to the fallen in both World Wars.

Do[edit]

Swakopmund is Namibia's adventure capital, and there's a great selection of activities to try out on land, sea and in the air. Tours and activities may also be booked once you're in Swakopmund.

Air[edit]

The desert as seen from a hot air balloon

The impressive Namib Desert (the oldest desert in the world, with the tallest sand dune in the world) around Swakopmund and the Skeleton Coast to the north can be appreciated in their entirety from the air, from a hot air balloon, a helicopter or a light plane. There are several kinds of flight tours are available, ranging from a few hours to a few days. Some flights enables you to see the desert and the ocean from above, others include safaris.

  • Skydive: GoSkydive4Fun are based at the airport.

Sea[edit]

The beaches are one of Swakopmund's top attractions
Baby of Cape Fur Seal on a pier in the port of Swakopmund

Swakopmund's beaches are full of domestic tourists, especially during school holidays. You'll find cold water, but warm sand. The beach, just to the north of town, is ringed with museums and cafes. Beware that further south there are no breakwaters, so the beach is exposed directly to the waves of the Atlantic, which means that swimming may not be safe.

Surfing is popular too. Hit the surf spots to the north of town, such as 'Thick Lip' and 'The Wreck'. Travel further south towards Langstrad for 'Guns'. Fishing is a more relaxed sea-related activity and tour companies also offer offshore fishing tours.

Land[edit]

Sandboarding!
Road signs to Dune number 7

Also the desert has many different activities, one local specialty being sandboarding, also known as duneboarding. You can ski the dunes just like you're snowboarding, or ride the board on your belly. Extremely high speeds — not for the faint hearted. This activity can be performed either on the world's highest sand dunes near Walvis Bay or some smaller dunes near Swakopmund. Alter Action has access to the infamous "Dizzy" hill. Tight clothing, sport shoes, sunglasses and sunblock are needed to take part in this activity. Beware that sand may damage your camera; though usually the price includes the operator taking video and photos of you performing the activity and giving you the footage.

Quadbiking is an excellent way to see the Namib desert close up. Several tour companies offer lessons and guided tours on four-wheel motorbikes through the desert surrounding the city. Breathtaking views of the dunes and the Atlantic Ocean.

Just south of town on the road to Walvis Bay, there are some nice sand dunes suitable for a walk. Cross over the Swakop River, smile at the fact that there's rarely any visible water in it, and stroll through the dunes.

There are several birding locations in the town. At the Swakop River mouth there is a small fresh water lagoon which always has good birds to see. In the town there is the water treatment area. This is more for the twitcher (birders chasing rare birds) looking for rare birds. It is only open on working hours on week days. North of the town is the Mile 4 salt works. Some roads go along the open saline lakes where the salt is being extracted. This area is very important for various birds, including flamingos.

Other than this, there are also tours to the natural attractions mentioned in the Go next section.

In the city[edit]

Swakop has an unusual number of skilled rock musicians and an impromptu "Open Mike Night" can usually be organized at one of the local nightspots. Travelling musicians take note!

Also, in addition to being located in the beautiful Woermannhaus, the library of Swakopmund is reportedly one of the best in all of Africa; why not sit down and educate yourself?

Buy[edit]

Brauhaus Arcade

Many Namibians travel to Swakopmund for shopping. While the selection is not as wide as in the capital, you can really buy everything you need here. There are several nice shops in Swakop selling souvenirs and art; in particular if you're interested in traditional African silver jewelry. There is also a very good craft market near the lighthouse, which has a lot of items which are difficult to find elsewhere in Namibia.

  • 1 Brauhaus Arcade. Shopping arcade with all kinds of small shops housed in typical German turn of the century buildings.
  • 2 Leder Chic (leather boutique for ostrich, kudu and buffalo leather articles), Brauhaus Arcade, (Centre of town in Hendrik Witbooi St.), +264 64 404778. from 09:00 to 18:00. Luggage and leather retail shop, the finest ostrich and kudu wallets and purses. Modern zebra skin belts, ostrich and kudu leather belts as well as designer handbags in springbok, kudu, nguni, buffalo and ostrich leather.
  • 3 Open market, Am Zoll. Traditional African street market. Bargain hard; if you're an obvious tourist the vendor typically gives you a price 3-4 times higher.
  • 4 Shoprite, Sam Nujoba Ave. Food and household item supermarket.
  • 5 Woermann Brock Mall, Ankerplatz. A more westernized mall with more expensive items (souvenirs and other products). Here you can also find an Internet cafe and a supermarket.

Eat[edit]

Typical local cuisine is a combination of the hearty German cuisine, and fish and seafood of the ocean. Being a resort city, many restaurants are located in hotels. For some of the most popular ones you will need to book a few days ahead, especially on weekends and holidays.

An average sit-down restaurant meal costs around N$150-300, and on top of that it's customary to leave a tip of 10%.

Sam Nujoma Avenue

Budget[edit]

  • 1 BOJOs Cafe, C34. Cafe with different menus every day, updated on their Facebook page.
  • 2 Café Treffpunkt, 102 Sam Nujoma Ave. Great German café, lovely breakfast.
  • 3 Café Tiffany, Libertina Amathila Avenue. Fresh fish, good wine, reasonable prices. Locals eat here.
  • 4 Café Anton (at the Schweizerhaus Hotel). Great for an all-you-can-eat breakfast. In the daytime they have delicious cakes; reportedly, the Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte is even better than what you can get in Germany! Around N$60.

Mid-range[edit]

  • 5 Napolitana, 33 Nathanael Maxuilili, +264 64 402773. An Italian restaurant with both Italian food and steaks and game. Large servings.
  • 6 Namib Restaurant, 13 Luderitz St, +264 64 404896. German cuisine with great service. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
  • 7 Zur Weinmaus, Poststraße. Very friendly host. Not many tables, so make a reservation.
  • 8 De Kelder, Tobias Hainyeko Street. A little bit hidden, does not look attractive from outside. But everything else is perfect!
  • 9 Zur Kupferpfanne, Daniel Tjongarero Ave 9. Game food and good wines.
  • 10 Kücki's Pub, Tobias Hainyeko 22, +264 64 404207. Warm and enjoyable atmosphere with great service. Limited menu, but interesting dishes (shark steak, etc) and very well prepared.

Splurge[edit]

  • 11 The Tug Restaurant, Strand Street (at the jetty), +264 64 402356, fax: +264 64 402356, . A great seafood restaurant, with a wide wine selection. It is an actual tug with a great view of the sea - reservations are essential. Rather expensive.
  • 12 The Jetty 1905. At end of the pier, fish and chips, sushi, tapas, good wine list and whisky Don Pedro's, +264 64 5664 for reservations.
  • Old Steamer, Strand Street, +264 81 430 3923. The Alte Brücke Holiday Resort also houses this amazing buffet restaurant. Beautifully decorated and the staff is very friendly.

Drink[edit]

Homebrewed beer from a street vendor is also an option

This is Jägermeister country and don't forget to sample the famous, locally brewed Hansa Draught. There is also a local independent craft brewery, called Namib Dunes.

  • 1 Bacchus Taverne, 44 Bismarck Street (opposite Europa Hof). Likely the coziest bar in Swakopmund. It has a good selection of pub snacks and is affordable too.
  • 2 Tiger Reef, Südstrand Street. Beach bar, excellent place for a sundowner on the beach. Go to the aquaruim and walk along the beach in the direction of Walvis Bay. Grab a bottle of bubbly for the amazing sunset (Locally called sundowners)
  • 3 Rafters Action Pub, Woermann Street. Great sports bar with big LCD screens.

Sleep[edit]

Budget Under 500[edit]

The Alte Kaserne (the old Imperial German barracks) is a used as a youth hostel
  • 1 Desert Sky Backpackers Lodge, 35 Anton Lubowski Ave (Anton Lubowski Ave. and Nathaniel Maxuilili), +264 64 402339. Five-minute walk from downtown and the beach; clean, friendly owner. Camping, dorms, double rooms available. No breakfast. Dorm bed from N$250.
  • 2 Salty Jackal Backpackers & Surf Camp (Just opposite Desert Sky), +264 81 465 1465. Caters to a younger crowd that likes surfing. Only 1 dorm (6 beds) and several private rooms. Breakfast included. Dogs and cat around to play with. Dorm bed around N$200.
  • 3 Villa Wiese Backpackers, Cnr. Theo-Ben Gurirab & Windhoeker Street, +264 64 407105, . Another great backpackers. Plus they have their own bar. dorms R185.
  • 4 Swakopmund Youth hostel, Lazarett street (housed in the Alte Kaserne.), +264 64-404164. dorm beds N$120.
  • 5 Skeleton Beach Backpackers, 14 Moses Garoeb street, +264 64 25-9485. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 10:00. Individual rooms or simple dorms with 4 or 6 beds dorms. Breakfast included. dorm bed from N$250.
  • 6 Amanpuri Travelers Lodge, Moses Garoeb street, +264 64-405587. has dorms beds N$180.
  • 7 Prost Hotel Swakopmund Namibia, 42 Nathaniël Maxuilili, +264 64 402030, fax: +264 64 405016, . Dorm beds. Popular among those travelling on overland trucks. Still, there are some quite nice and clean rooms (though ask to see the room first). Restaurant, Internet cafe, laundry service N$30, guarded parking lot, kitchen. N$150.
  • 8 Sea Breeze Guesthouse, Turmalien St, +264 64 463348.
  • 9 Meike's Guesthouse, Windhoeker St, +264 64 405863.

Mid-range[edit]

The old railway station nowadays hosts a luxurious hotel, a casino and restaurants

Splurge[edit]

  • 23 The Stiltz, Am Zoll. Luxurious with a very romantic setting.
  • 24 Hansa Hotel, 3 Hendrik Witbooi Street, +264 64 414 200, fax: +264 64 414 299, . The archetype of a hotel from the "old days". Waiters wear penguin suit, and the place oozes style. This is also a nice place for Sunday lunch which is surprisingly good value for money, but you might be rejected if your attire is too informal. above N$1000.
  • 25 Swakopmund Hotel & Entertainment Center Alter Bahnhof, Mandume Ya Ndemufayo, +264 64 410 5200, fax: +264 64 410 5360, . It's a 4-star luxury hotel, built in and around the impeccably restored old station building. Includes casino, pool and restaurant. From N$940 per room, incl. breakfast.

Stay safe[edit]

Swakopmund is generally a safe city, though you should follow some basic rules:

  • Don't leave valuables visible in your car.
  • Park at guarded parking lots if possible. It's customary to tip the guards N$2-3 per day and N$5 per night.
  • Avoid walking alone at night and deserted streets.
  • Strangers that may come and talk to you on the street are often up to no good. This is a frequent occurrence and may involve aggressive or persistent panhandling. New arrivals are especially targeted.
  • Sunburn is a real risk for everyone (you're in the tropics!), particularly on a cold and foggy day where you do not notice how much UV is hitting your skin.

Be careful when swimming in the ocean. There is a strong northwards current (the Benguela Current), the water just a few meters away from the beach is icy all year round, and the waves are forceful. Locals swim right opposite Strand Hotel where the breakwater protects them, and so should you.

Connect[edit]

  • 1 Swakopmund I-cafe, Tobias Hainyeko (Woermann & Brock Mall). M-Sa 07:00-22:00, Su 10:00-22:00. The only Internet cafe in town.

Go next[edit]

  • Swakopmund is a good starting point for trips up the Skeleton Coast.
  • A good day-trip would be south from Swakop to Walvis Bay, Namibia's port town. The road to Walvis Bay provides good views of the Namib dunes meeting the Atlantic.
Cape Cross Seal Colony
  • 120 km north of Swakopmund lies Cape Cross, where every October to December about 100,000 of the Cape Fur Seals breed. The sight and the noise (and also the smell) is absolutely breathtaking! The name Cape Cross comes from a stone cross erected 1486 by the Portuguese Diego Cáo. Entry fee to the nature reserve is N$10. Accommodation at the Cape Cross Lodge.
  • For hobby botanists a half day trip to the south east on the Moon landscape drive will take you to the legendary Welwitschia mirabilis, as well as other desert-adapted plants, abandoned mining equipment, and an unbelievable landscape. The drive crosses the Swakop River, and there is no bridge. There is also no water in the river, we're in Namibia after all! An ordinary sedan can achieve the river crossing (deep sand) with deflated tyres and an experienced driver. Don't forget to bring a pump, or else the rest of the rather challenging road will destroy tyres and the rims. In a place where there is no rain for decades the only water source the Welwitschia uses is humidity. They can become over 1000 years old and only live in this part of the Namib desert, up to 120 km away from the coast. Be careful not to walk too close to the plants (roots easily destroyed) or even take plants with you, the species is highly endangered!



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