Altstadt is in Frankfurt. The old town of Frankfurt with the Römer and the Imperial Cathedral is surrounded by the city centre which is enclosed by the Main River and the former ramparts, now a green space.
The Altstadt district encompasses medieval Frankfurt am Main, which was once enclosed by the Staufen Wall. The boundary of the Old Town is barely discernible in today's cityscape; it roughly follows the streets Neue Mainzer Straße, Berliner Straße, Großer Hirschgraben, Kleiner Hirschgraben, Holzgraben, and Kurt-Schumacher-Straße.
The city centre district forms a semi-circle around the old town and extends to the city walls, which are still recognizable today as a striking green strip in the cityscape. The easement of 1827 still prohibits any construction within the city walls; it has only been violated very rarely (e.g., for the construction of the Old Opera House).
Understand
[edit | edit source]Until 1945, Frankfurt's city centre, with its 3,000 half-timbered houses, was one of the largest half-timbered old towns in Europe. However, the winding streets of the old town with its historic buildings were already considered outdated in the 20th century. After the decline of the Frankfurt Trade Fair, most of the city's economy shifted outside the old town, and consequently, the old half-timbered houses were primarily inhabited by ordinary workers and their families – historic preservation as we know it today was unimaginable at the time. To improve living conditions in the old town, Braubachstrasse was built between 1904 and 1906 as a major thoroughfare through the center. This project, along with the construction of large townhouses along its route, resulted in the demolition of over 100 half-timbered houses.
The final blow to Frankfurt's old town, however, came with the Second World War. The area bombing destroyed almost the entire old town; only one building – the Wertheym House – survived the war largely unscathed. After the war, Frankfurt's politicians – partly due to the immense costs of such a project – decided against rebuilding the old town and opted instead for restructuring the city centre according to the principles of a car-oriented city. Only a few representative buildings, including Frankfurt's churches and the Römerberg, were reconstructed; the rest of the city center was filled with functional buildings from the 1950s or, in many cases, completely demolished to make way for new traffic arteries. Due to numerous disputes, the reconstruction dragged on into the 1960s, leaving Frankfurt's city center with large gaps in the urban fabric for a long time afterward.
The Zeil, now one of Germany's highest-grossing shopping streets with many of the country's best-known chains, was able to build on old traditions. It was only in 1972 that the Zeil became a pedestrian zone.
In the 21st century, a new potential opened up for the old town. The Technical Town Hall, a functional building from the 1970s, was demolished, and part of the former old town was reconstructed on its site. The reconstructed old town was reopened in 2018 and enjoys great popularity with tourists and locals alike.
Get in and around
[edit | edit source]Subway lines U4 and U5 – Dom/Römer subway station
Tram lines 11, 12 and 14 – Stop: Römer/Paulskirche
On foot from the main train station or long-distance bus station
Those arriving by car should park in one of the parking garages as soon as possible, as the city centre is a sometimes impenetrable maze of one-way streets. Finding on-street parking in the city centre is like winning the lottery. Most of the parking garages in the city centre belong to the city of Frankfurt and are therefore affordable; a parking guidance system helps you find the right garage. You can check the current occupancy of Frankfurt's parking garages in advance on hr teletext or online, but it's practically never the case that all the parking garages in the city centre are actually full.
The city centre is best explored on foot. While the numerous traffic arteries through the city center can present some obstacles, it's still manageable. For the average Frankfurter, red pedestrian lights are merely a well-intentioned suggestion – if the road is clear, you simply cross.
See
[edit | edit source]- 9 Römerberg (within city centre just north of Eiserner Steg bridge, subway Dom/Römer U4 U5 ). Römerberg is the historic centre of Frankfurt, with a number of beautiful buildings, including the town hall and a church from the 14th and 15th century. The name Römer itself refers to the town hall of Frankfurt, which itself received this name from the prominent main building 1 Haus zum Römer, which has existed since at least 1322 and was bought by the city administration in 1405. Fortunately, large parts of the Römer's façade survived World War II. The 2 Fountain of Justice marks the centre of the Römerberg, while the 3 Alte Nikolaikirche (a 12th-century church, current form since the 15th century) is on its southern side. The square is replete with beautiful half-timbered houses, many of which were destroyed during World War II, and completely rebuilt afterwards. One exception is the 4 Haus Wertheim (also known as Haus Wertheym), which was first mentioned in 1383 and for which the current building dates from around 1600, presumably making it Frankfurt's oldest historic restaurant. Walking towards the Main river, you can further see the 5 Wharfinger's Tower (Rententurm), a 15th-century fortified tower in late Gothic style, which is connected to the 6 Saalhof, a 12th-century castle building that was later modernized but never completely destroyed. Numerous cafés and shops can be found at the square itself and in the vicinity. Behind and north of the Haus zum Römer, the town hall was extended in 1900–1908 with the construction of the Neues Rathaus building complex, a series of Gothic/Renaissance style buildings. This includes a tower known as 7 Langer Franz and the 8 Seufzerbrücke, a bridge connecting two buildings within the complex, both best viewed at Bethmannstraße/Paulsplatz.
- 10 Dom-Römer-Areal (New Old City Frankfurt) (just east of the Römerberg, subway to Dom/Römer U4 U5 ). Urban revitalization of the Dom-Römer complex, in which a number of old historic buildings have been rebuilt from scratch – incorporating only a few original artifacts – based on old pictures and drawings. The area includes the Steinerne Haus at Markt 44, a medieval-looking building first erected in 1464 that had already been rebuilt in the 1960s. The street known as Alter Markt or simply as Markt was in fact one of the most important ones in the old town. Upon being crowned in the cathedral, the new emperors of the Holy Roman Empire would take this path to proceed to the Römerberg and Römer, where the ceremonial procedures continued. This area also includes the remains of an ancient Roman settlement that used to be known as the Archäologische Garten, but reopened indoors as part of the new Dom-Römer-Areal revitalization project. The completed area was officially inaugurated in September 2018.
- 11 Kaiserdom (Frankfurt Cathedral/Imperial Cathedral of Saint Bartholomew) (Located right next to the Römerberg, subway to Dom/Römer U4 U5 , Tram 11/12 „Römer/Paulskirche“). The main cathedral with its 95 m high tower, built in Gothic style in the 14th century. From 1562 to 1792, emperors of the Holy Roman Empire were crowned in the cathedral. It is possible to ascend the tower to a platform at 66 m height, affording excellent views over the city. For this, you will need to enter via a separate entrance at the southern side of the cathedral and climb over 300 steps in a narrow winding staircase.
- 12 Eiserner Steg (Iron bridge) (Subway to Dom/Römer U4 U5 ). Relatively well-known bridge for pedestrians, built in 1869. It is just a minute away from the Römer. Crossing the bridge leads you to Sachsenhausen and provides good views of the skyline.
- 13 Paulskirche (St. Paul's Church), Paulsplatz 11 (Located just north of the Römer place, subway to Dom/Römer U4 U5 ). A church with important political symbolism in Germany. This was the seat of the first democratically elected parliament in Germany in 1848. Here the revolutionaries wrote the 1848 constitution that sadly was never put into effect. Like most historic buildings in the city centre, it was destroyed during World War II, but was also among the first buildings to be rebuilt after 1945 (with different interior). Today the building is used as a memorial site and an event centre, including hosting the awarding of the Peace Prize of the German Book Trade. Free.
- 14 Liebfrauenkirche, Liebfrauengasse/Neue Kräme (near the Zeil). 14th century Roman Catholic church and monastery.
- 15 St. Leonhardskirche (St. Leonhard’s Church). Late Romanic church built in 1219, and transformed in accordance with the Gothic style in the 15th century. English-language Catholic mass service on Saturdays and Sundays.
- 16 Staufenmauer. Remains of the old city wall (1138–1254) can be seen in the Fahrgasse and at the Liebfrauenkirche. More prominent examples of the city fortification built in later years include the Eschenheimer Turm (1428) near Hauptwache and the Friedberger Warte (1478, rebuilt 1637), which is on the Friedberger Landstraße a bit outside the main city centre.
- 17 Kunsthalle Schirn, Römerberg (Subway to Dom/Römer U4 U5 ), ☏ +49 69 299882112. Tu F-Su 10:00-19:00, W Th 10:00-22:00. A museum specializing in contemporary art. It is located just off the Römerplatz. There are two exhibition spaces that rotate every month or two. Ticket prices vary depending on the exhibitions.
- 18 Museum für Moderne Kunst (Museum of Modern Art), Domstraße 10, ☏ +49 69 212-30447, fax: +49 69 212-37882, [email protected]. Tu Th-Su 10:00-18:00, W 10:00-20:00. The building was designed by Hans Hollein to resemble a boat, which is most notable when approaching it from the back (east). Apart from well-known artists in the permanent collection, e.g. Roy Liechtenstein and Andy Warhol, the museum has changing exhibits that often include contemporary works. The museum has an associated restaurant Triangolo. €10 for adults, €5 for children.
- 19 Frankfurter Kunstverein, Steinernes Haus am Römerberg, Markt 44 (Römerberg, subway to Dom/Römer U4 U5 ), ☏ +49 69-219314-0. Tu-W F-Su 11:00-19:00, Th 11:00-21:00. Constantly changing contemporary art expositions. Adults €8, reduced €6.
- 20 Archäologisches Museum (Archaeological Museum), Karmelitergasse 1, ☏ +49 69-212-35896, fax: +49 69-212-30700, [email protected]. Tu Th-Su 10:00-18:00, W 10:00-20:00. In a building which used to house a Carmelite monastery. Adults €7, reduced €3.50, under 18 years free, free entry every last Saturday of the month.
- 21 Historisches Museum (Historical Museum), Saalgasse 19 (Subway to Dom/Römer U4 U5 ), ☏ +49 69-212-35599. Tu-Su holidays 10:00-17:00, W 10:00-21:00. Historic museum of the city of Frankfurt and its citizens. Today it offers a wide collection of the history of the city. Adults €7, reduced €3.50, family ticket €15.
- 22 Caricatura Museum for Comic Art, Weckmarkt 17 (Dom/Römer U4 U5 ), ☏ +49-69-21230161. closed on Mondays. Museum for comic art, i.e., satire and illustrations. Located in the old Leinwandhaus (Linen House), a historic building that was first constructed in 1396–1399, but only reopened in 1984 after suffering substantial damage in World War II.
Do
[edit | edit source]Buy
[edit | edit source]- 1 Kleinmarkthalle, Hasengasse 5-7 (Hauptwache U1 U2 U3 U6 U7 U8 or Konstablerwache U4 U5 U6 U7 ; in the city centre between Zeil and Berliner Straße). M-F 08:00-18:00, Sa 08:00-16:00, Su and holidays closed. A market hall with a large variety of local and international vendors ranging from fresh produce to ready-to-eat food and drinks.
- 2 Farmer's Market at Konstablerwache (Erzeugermarkt Konstablerwache) (Konstablerwache U4 U5 U6 U7 ). Th 10:00-20:00, Sa 08:00-17:00. Locally produced vegetables or fruits are found also directly from regional ecological producers.
Eat
[edit | edit source]Budget
[edit | edit source]- 1 Zum Alten Frankfurter, Ziegelgasse 2. It feels like a family run place. Intimate and quiet. Food freshly cooked with passion. Schnitzel: the breading throws bubbles the way it should be. The service charming and quick. All in all a nice experience.
- 2 China Garten, Bethmannstraße 11. If you want to eat quality and tasty Asian food and that at great prices, you have to go here. The service is always very friendly.
- 3 Tonbul Grill und Kebap Haus, Töngesgasse 4. Delicious "homemade" doner kebab with a unique touch. Not a standard kebab. Super nice place with homemade fresh products. The sauces are very yummy. The staff is also very friendly.
Mid-range
[edit | edit source]- 4 Paulaner am Dom, Domplatz 6 (Dom/Römer U4 U5 ), ☏ +49 69 209768-90. 11:00-24:00. Traditional Bavarian restaurant, perhaps a bit touristy, right behind the cathedral near Römer. It's difficult to get a table at weekends without a reservation.
- 5 Salzkammer, Weißadlergasse 15 (Hauptwache U1 U2 U3 U6 U7 U8 ), ☏ +49 69 15393000. M-Sa 11:00-24:00. The restaurant serves food close to real Austrian cuisine.
Splurge
[edit | edit source]Drink
[edit | edit source]Bars
[edit | edit source]- 1 Die Rote Bar, mainkai 7, ☏ +49 69 293533, fax: +49 69 61 99 03 18, [email protected]. Su-Th 21:00-01:00, F-Sa 21:00-02:00. This cocktail bar offers excellent drinks in a stylish atmosphere. The bar has its own whiskey selection. Better be well dressed for the door. Coming late, one has to wait a bit outside until space is found inside.
Cafes
[edit | edit source]- 2 Cafe & Bar Celona, Holzgraben 31 (Hauptwache U1 U2 U3 U6 U7 U8 ), ☏ +49 69-13886709. Daily 09:00-01:00, F Sa 09:00-02:00. Spanish-style bar in the heart of the city. Popular, attracts a younger crowd, good for meeting people. Very crowded around 17:00-19:00. Also serves a variety of Spanish dishes. €7-20/person.
- 3 Wacker´s Kaffee Geschäft (Wacker), Kornmarkt 9 (Hauptwache U1 U2 U3 U6 U7 U8 ), ☏ +49 69-28-78-10. M-F 08:00-19:00, Sa 08:00-18:00. Since 1914 known for its good coffee. Very packed over lunch time but has its own roast of coffee. Don't mind a long queue, the crew is dedicated and you will never wait more than five minutes for your coffee €2.

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