Gonçalves

Gonçalves is a small town in Southern Minas Gerais, Brazil, in the Mantiqueira Mountains (Serra da Mantiqueira). It has about 4,700 inhabitants (2022 census), the town centre lies at 1,350 m, and the whole municipality is within the Fernão Dias Environmental Protection Area. Tourism revolves around nature and food: waterfalls, hikes to rock peaks above 1,700 m, rural producers, craft studios and restaurants serving signature cuisine.

Gonçalves is about 190 km from São Paulo and 160 km from Campinas, close to the border with São Paulo state. The landscape is high-altitude Atlantic Forest with araucaria pines, springs and valleys that wake up covered in fog. Nights are cool all year round; winter (June to August) is the busiest season, and summer rains make the waterfalls fuller.

• By car from São Paulo or Belo Horizonte: take the Fernão Dias highway (BR-381) to Cambuí, then about 30 km to Gonçalves.
• By car from the Paraíba Valley or Rio de Janeiro: take the Via Dutra (BR-116) to São José dos Campos or Taubaté, climb the mountains via Santo Antônio do Pinhal and São Bento do Sapucaí, and continue to Gonçalves.
• The nearest airports with scheduled flights are in São Paulo (Guarulhos and Congonhas) and Campinas (Viracopos).

A car is practically essential. Guesthouses, waterfalls and restaurants are spread across rural neighbourhoods (Campestre, Venâncios, Sertão do Cantagalo, Terra Fria, São Sebastião das Três Orelhas), many reached by dirt roads. Local guides and agencies offer longer hikes and 4x4 tours.

• Cachoeira do Simão. Easily accessible waterfall with natural pools for bathing. Free. 
• Cachoeira das Sete Quedas. Waterfall with visitor facilities; the circuit also includes the Retiro and Cruzeiro falls. Fee charged. 
• Cachoeira das Andorinhas. Reached by a steep, poorly marked trail; going with a guide is recommended. 
• Cachoeira dos Martins (Cachoeira dos Henriques) (on the border with Paraisópolis, on the road to the Costas district). A tall, powerful waterfall. 
• Pedra de São Domingos. About 2,050 m high. Cars can get close to the top; a popular viewpoint at sunset. Free. 
• Pedra do Cruzeiro. A hill climbed along a Way of the Cross with 15 small chapels. Free. 
• Casa de Pau a Pique dos Venâncios (Bairro dos Venâncios). Traditional wattle-and-daub house. 
• Belvedere do Serrano (on the road between São Bento do Sapucaí and Gonçalves, on the São Paulo state side). Viewpoint with a broad view of the mountains. 

Hiking

• Pedra Chanfrada (the trail starts near the Ao Pé da Pedra restaurant). 1,771 m high; a trail of about 2 km round trip. Free. 
• Pedra do Forno (Terra Fria neighbourhood, accessed through the Bar e Restaurante Pedra do Forno). 1,970 m high; a trail of about 2 km round trip, with an iron staircase and the São Francisco chapel at the top. A fee may be charged. 
• Pedra Bonita (Bairro do Campestre, on the border with Sapucaí-Mirim). About 2,120 m, the highest point in the municipality. A demanding 7–8 km trail taking 5–6 hours; a guide is essential. 
• Pedra do Barnabé. About 1,780 m; a 3–4 km loop on private land. Access fee. 

Producers and other activities

• Alambique Gonçalves. Cachaça distillery operating since 1952. 
• Vinícola Artesã. The first vineyard in the municipality, at about 1,600 m, growing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. 
• Casa dos Cogumelos (Bairro dos Venâncios). Mushroom farm open to visitors. 
• Orgânicos da Mantiqueira (1 km before the town centre). Organic farm. 
• Azeite MiraLua (Sítio MiraLua). Olive oil produced in the mountains; products are also sold at Empório da Pedra. 
• Mantiqueira Ecoturismo. Guided hikes, 4x4 tours and stargazing, by appointment. 
• Espaço de Yoga e Massagem Fiorella. Yoga classes and massages. 

• Pérola da Mantiqueira (town centre). Artisanal cheeses from the Mantiqueira and Serra da Canastra regions, sweets, cachaças and cured meats. 
• A Senhora das Especiarias. Artisanal jams, chutneys, antipasti and seasonings, made in town since 2001. 
• A Pioneira. Shop selling artisanal products from the Mantiqueira and other regions of Minas Gerais, since 2002. 
• Jardim do Bem Dizer. Antiques shop. 
• Centro Comunitário (on the road to São Bento do Sapucaí). Local handicrafts. 
• The town centre has several craft, décor and ceramics studios, such as Valhalla, Dona Terra Decor, Arte Zen, Chic na Roça, Atelier Papegilla, Sous le Manteau Cerâmica and Ateliê do Adão. Outside the centre is Atelier Claudia Araujo, a textile art studio.

Trout is the town's signature dish and appears on most menus; porco na lata (pork preserved in its own fat) is another rural speciality. The most popular restaurants work by reservation, especially at weekends.

• Sauá (Sertão do Cantagalo neighbourhood). Contemporary signature cuisine with local ingredients and mountain views. 
• Bistrô do Vinho. French-influenced cuisine, cheese fondue and a wine list. 
• Terras de Monã. Slow food; the farm produces its own olive oil, cachaça and cured meats. 
• Karu Restaurante (Bairro dos Venâncios). International influences with seasonal ingredients from the mountains. 
• Gastrô Massas Artesanais. Homemade pasta with organic sauce. 
• A Casinha Vinhos e Grill (town centre). Italian cuisine and grills, with a cellar of wines from several countries. 
• O Velho e o Bar (town centre). A mix of French, coastal (caiçara) and Minas Gerais cooking. 
• Sabor sem Freio. A signature take on Minas Gerais cuisine, with trout among the highlights. 
• Da Terra Bar e Restaurante (town centre). Minas Gerais cooking: trout crackling, suckling pig and quirera with pork ribs. 
• Sebastian Bar & Restaurante. Veranda with mountain views and trout served in several ways. 
• Ao Pé da Pedra (at the foot of Pedra Chanfrada). Buffet of Minas Gerais food cooked on a wood-fired stove. 
• Pizzaria Lolita (town centre). Long-fermentation pizza dough. 
• BalaiÔ Sanduicheria. Artisanal sandwiches, with vegetarian and vegan options. 
• Under Burger (town centre). Craft burgers. 
• Reconto Café & Prosa (São Sebastião das Três Orelhas neighbourhood). Specialty coffee and homemade recipes, with outdoor tables. 
• Rancho do Céu (town centre). Tea house with cakes and homemade treats. 

• Janelas com Tramela (town centre). Brazilian bar food, often with live music. 
• Chalé Gastrobar (town centre). Cocktails, local beers and snacks; often has live music. 
• Cervejaria 3 Orelhas (rural area). Brewery with its own beers, tasting flights and grilled meats. 

Accommodation is in pousadas (guesthouses) and chalets, many of them in rural neighbourhoods.

• Pousada Aconchego da Roça, Estrada Mundo Novo, 514, Centro, ☏ +55 35 99990-9063.  
• Pousada Bicho do Mato, Estrada Sertão do Cantagalo, km 7,5, Sertão do Cantagalo, ☏ +55 35 99976-9970. Linked to the Vinícola Artesã winery and the Sauá restaurant. 
• -22.720054-45.8299491 Pousada Casa Campestre, Estrada Gonçalves–Campestre, km 9 (Bairro do Campestre, 9 km from the town centre), ☏ +55 35 99910-1060. Three chalets with double hot tubs, for adults only, set in araucaria forest. Bookings via WhatsApp.  
• Pousada Colina das Andorinhas, Estrada Municipal Gonçalves a Martins, km 1, bairro Dona Luciana, ☏ +55 19 99842-3301.  
• Pousada do Rio, Estrada dos Venâncios, km 8, Bairro dos Venâncios, ☏ +55 11 99807-1506.  
• Pousada Dona Manoela, Bairro Atrás da Pedra, km 4, zona rural, ☏ +55 35 99759-5751.  
• Pousada Encontro das Águas, Travessa São Sebastião, km 1, Retiro, ☏ +55 35 99756-8673.  
• Pousada Espelho D'Água, Estrada Municipal São Sebastião, km 1, Retiro, ☏ +55 11 99545-1454, +55 35 3654-1397.  
• Pousada Gonçalves, Estrada do Campestre, km 10, Campestre, ☏ +55 11 98373-0888.  
• Pousada Passaredo, Estrada da Terra Fria, km 8, ☏ +55 35 99982-2122.  
• Pousada Riacho das Pedras, Rua João Carlos da Silva, 370, Centro, ☏ +55 35 99875-4129.  
• Pousada Serra Vista, Estrada Gonçalves–São Sebastião, km 3,5, ☏ +55 11 98196-3880.  
• Pousada Solar d'Araucária, Estrada da Terra Fria, s/n, Bairro Retiro, ☏ +55 35 99764-9122.  
• Pousada Som das Águas, Estrada Retiro ao Início da Terra Fria, km 6,5, ☏ +55 35 99972-1116.  
• Pousada Três Orelhas, Estrada para São Sebastião, km 6, Bairro das Três Orelhas, ☏ +55 35 99954-9980.  
• Pousada Urutau, Estrada do Ribeirãozinho, km 0,8, Ribeirãozinho, ☏ +55 12 99127-1486.  
• Pousada Ver o Vento, Estrada São Sebastião, km 5, ☏ +55 35 99992-7179, +55 35 99931-0104.  
• Pousada Vida Verde, ☏ +55 35 3654-1217.  
• Pousada Vila Khepri, Rua Coronel Procópio Ribeiro, 365, Centro, ☏ +55 35 99946-8122.  
• Pousada Villa Catarina, Estrada Rio Manso, km 1, zona rural, ☏ +55 11 99657-6801.  
• Pousada Vitória, Estrada dos Remédios, s/n, Bairro dos Remédios, ☏ +55 11 99447-5844.  
• Pousada Viver a Pedra, Estrada do Córrego da Foice, s/n, ☏ +55 35 99118-2423.  

• Santo Antônio do Pinhal
• Campos do Jordão — about 42 km away
• São Bento do Sapucaí — known for the Pedra do Baú rock formation
• Monte Verde — mountain village in Camanducaia
• Paraisópolis