Hurghada

Hurghada^{[dead link]} (Arabic: الغردقة el-ğarda’a) is a resort town on the Red Sea Coast of Egypt. Famous for its superb diving opportunities, Hurghada is especially appealing to those with little experience of scuba diving, who come to marvel at the underwater reefs and awesome marine life.

Hurghada was once a fairly small and unimposing fishing village, next to the Red Sea. It has a number of superb beaches. Today, the resort of Hurghada is almost unrecognizable from its past life and has become a major destination in Egypt for budget tourists especially from Europe and Russia. It has more than 100 hotels, many of which line the shoreline, and numerous flights particularly from airports across Europe.

Tourism is now a huge part of Hurghada and each year, many tourists choose to combine their holiday here with visits to other prominent locations along the Nile Valley, including the relatively nearby city of Luxor.

See also: Egypt#Climate

The climate is very dry and rainfall is very rare. The weather is very hot in summer days and quite hot in summer nights. In winter the weather is generally warm by day but cool by night. Hurghada can be downright cold when the Shamal wind blows down from the northeast.

Miles and miles and miles of concrete, much of it abandoned developments, mar the shoreline. The oldest, most Egyptian part of the city is 27.2523333.814751 Ad-Dahar to the north, with relatively limited tourist facilities. This is separated by a low dusty ridge from 27.2264233.838142 Sigala 4 km south. Sigala is the main downtown strip, with western and traditional restaurants, hotels and general facilities, and has the most buzz about it. Several boat and dive operators run from the marina here. The main drag of Sheraton Road continues south along the coast for 4 km to the disused Sheraton Hotel, a circular 1970s concrete hulk. The road now enters the Village Resort strip, with another rash of hotels.

The coral reefs around Hurghada are several miles offshore, unlike the Sinai resorts and Jordan where they hug the coast, so divers and snorkelers will need to take a boat trip to enjoy them. Arid islands dot the sea. The largest is Big Giftun, which has a beach club and (better still) cellphone towers - so mobile reception is good out on the water, to the benefit of skippers and trippers.

Modern developers have kind of given up on Hurghada, and have built glossy new resorts further away, notably El Gouna 20 km north, Makadi Bay 30 km south, and Safaga 50 km south. These all use Hurghada airport as their entry point.

Hurghada has frequent direct international flights from Europe including Russia, Turkey, the Gulf states, and the Far East, e.g. Bangkok. Most of these travellers are on package tours of Egypt — but not all, as the operators also sell flight-only tickets, a cheap and convenient way to get in. Coming from Rome or Budapest there are ultra low-cost flights operated by Wizz Air.

Domestic flights link Hurghada frequently to Cairo, and daily to Alexandria and Sharm el-Sheikh. These are a good way to travel as Hurghada is backed by an awful lot of desert, and road transport to other cities is lengthy, hot, dusty, bumpy and not entirely safe. The main domestic operator is Egyptair, but Nile Air and Al Masria compete on the Cairo route and keep fares low.

The package operators, e.g. TUI, also fly domestic legs, but these are mainly to move their own clients around Egypt and are not always available to book point-to-point.

• 27.17805633.7991671 Hurghada International Airport (HRG  ^IATA). Hurghada's airport is about 8 km west of the Hurghada resort strip and about 10 km from Sigala. Terminal use may vary by airline and flight, so check your airline or tour operator before travel. After landing, passengers usually pass through visa formalities, passport control and baggage claim before entering the arrivals hall. The airport is functional, but can become crowded when several charter flights arrive or depart close together.  (updated Jun 2026)

There is free Wi-Fi for a short period. After that duration you may need to pay or use mobile data.

In the arrivals area, SIM cards with mobile data may be sold by Egyptian mobile network operators. A passport is normally required for registration, and the card should be tested before leaving the counter. Availability, queues and package prices can vary, especially during late arrivals or when several flights land close together. Travellers with eSIM-compatible phones may prefer to arrange mobile data before travel; those needing a physical SIM should allow extra time after baggage claim.

Visa-on-arrival procedures may be available for eligible nationalities. Travellers should check current entry rules before departure. If buying a visa mark at the airport, keep cash ready and allow time before passport control, as queues can vary depending on the number of arriving flights.

There is no local bus or microbus departing directly from the airport terminal. Package tourist arrivals will usually have their own bus awaiting. Independent travellers normally use an Uber/Careem where available, a taxi, a pre-arranged transfer, or walk out of the airport. The walking distance to the highway is about 1.3 km or 15 min and it is barely shaded. At the highway you can stop a microbus and ask if it heads in your direction.

Airport taxis and private transfers are the most common options for independent travellers leaving the airport. Agree the total fare before entering a taxi and make clear whether the price is for the car, not per person. For resort areas outside Hurghada, such as El Gouna, Sahl Hasheesh, Makadi Bay, Soma Bay, Safaga or Marsa Alam, a pre-arranged transfer can be more convenient, especially for late arrivals, families, travellers with luggage or guests going directly to a hotel reception.

Taxi fares are high for the short distance from the airport to town or the resort strip. Prices vary by season, time, negotiation and destination. Drivers pay to enter and wait within the airport area, and this is often reflected in the fare. The regular fare towards the airport from town may be cheaper than the fare offered immediately outside the arrivals hall. There is also a toll on the highway south to Safaga that may be included in longer-distance fares.

Getting back to the airport is possible by Uber/Careem where available, taxi or pre-arranged transfer. Travellers returning by microbus can go to the Total gas station near the airport and continue from there. At the police checkpoint you may need to show your passport and flight reservation and may undergo a small security check. The departure hall of the airport is upstairs.

The bus operators have different bus stations:

• 27.2381833.831952 Go Bus Station (about 1 km north of High Jet). Many destinations—check their website. The GoBus website allows you to purchase return tickets on all routes direct to your mobile phone as an e-ticket which is very convenient - you just need to set up an account to do this and foreign tourists are welcome on all services provided you are not travelling on restricted roads. Between Cairo, Luxor and Hurghada is perfectly fine.  (updated Dec 2022)
• 27.24086533.8276243 Super Jet Bus Station. The buses have a golden color with red stripes. 'Super Jet' is written in small letters on the bus.  (updated Dec 2022)
• 27.2284733.835994 High Jet Bus Station (to/from Cairo). It covers travel to/from Cairo (6-7 hr). Reserving tickets is barely necessary, considering the frequency of the buses. The buses are not that comfortable, and they have loud and annoying soap operas running in the bus during the whole journey. So, it is probably not a good idea to take a night bus. From Cairo: every 2-3 hr between 8AM-2:30AM. To Cairo: every 2-3 hr between 7AM-3AM. About LE380-450  (updated Jan 2026)

Cairo – The trip usually takes approximately 7 hr depending on the operator. Known operators include the Super Jet (ph. 16108), Go Bus (ph. 19567) and HighJet. There are a number of stations which include one behind Cairo railway station Ahmed Helmy. There are many price options starting from LE380 and rising to LE750, every hour you can find bus to Hurghada (avoid MCV Co). In Medan El Giza in northwestern Cairo often extremely crowded, or Almaza Station in the Heliopolis district in northeastern Cairo. Bus schedules often change, but if you go to the bus station without booking you'll find many options. (updated Jan. 2026)

Alexandria – There are 2 buses from Alexandria to Hurghada. The first one, Upper Egypt Bus Co., leaves at 6:30PM from the new bus station, and costs LE90. It arrives at Hurghada about 4:30AM. It is not recommended because you'll find all the city in deep sleep and seems like ghost city. The second bus, Super Jet Co., leaves the new bus station at 8:30PM and costs LE95. It arrives in the morning so you can find public transport and the taxis. (February 2012)

Qena and Luxor – About 4-5 hr by bus. Go Bus has two daily buses at 8:15AM and 3:30PM to and from Luxor from LE90. If you're looking at the GoBus site on a mobile device, you may not be able to find listings for Luxor—try a laptop or desktop view.

Upper Egypt Bus Co. runs between Hurghada, Safagah, Luxor and Aswan.

Aswan – There's one transport company to the Red Sea, Upper Egypt Bus Co. The buses are new, the ticket costs LE50 (maybe you pay extra LE5 as a foreigner). There are 2 buses: 3:30PM and 5:30PM. The trip takes 8 hours or more, which means you'll arrive in Hurghada after midnight. (February 2012)

Long-distance "servees" taxis run from Hurghada bus station in El Hegaz Street (which you can reach by bus 4 or 7, or by local taxi). These run to all major cities in Egypt, but consider them especially for the run to Luxor, where the time saved by flying is less compelling.

With 2 or 3 of you, you could negotiate a private long-distance taxi; again, the journey to Luxor works well this way. And unlike a "servees", the driver will pause at antiquities and photo opportunities on the way.

Ferry services between Hurghada and Sharm el-Sheikh, on the Sinai peninsula, were suspended in 2010, and no resumption is in sight.

A fast-cat ferry runs between Safaga, 50 km south of Hurghada, to Diba (or Duba) in Saudi Arabia. As this route carries a lot of pilgrims and trucking, it's not been hit by the tourist downtown. You'll need to have sorted your Saudi visa well in advance.

Map of Hurghada

A swarm of white minibuses (Toyota Hiace) called micro bus serve the area, with a flat fare of LE2–3 (Dec 2022). They run fixed routes, mostly along the coastal strip, picking up and dropping off anywhere along the way. Ask around for your destination before getting in - if it's not this bus, it's probably the next one already pulling up. They're cramped and crowded, and young women may have to ward off pests.

Slightly larger minibuses or small regular buses run frequently along the coastal highway to El Gouna and Safaga.

Uber and Careem operate in Hurghada and can be convenient for short trips within the city, avoiding much of the haggling required for ordinary taxi rides. Prices are shown in the app, but availability, waiting time and final pickup point can vary by area, time of day and demand. App fares have increased compared with older guidebook prices, so do not rely on past examples.

Some drivers may still ask for cash payment or try to negotiate a different fare from the app price. Confirm the destination and payment method before starting the ride. If the driver asks for a substantially higher cash fare, cancel and request another car if possible.

E-hailing can be less predictable at certain locations, including the airport, bus station and some hotels or resort gates. Some pickup points may be blocked, restricted or difficult for drivers to access. If the app says that service is not available at your exact location, walk a short distance away from taxi touts and try again from a nearby main street or hotel entrance.

For longer journeys to resort areas outside central Hurghada, such as El Gouna, Sahl Hasheesh, Makadi Bay, Soma Bay, Safaga or Marsa Alam, app availability may be limited and drivers may be reluctant to accept the ride at the displayed fare. For these routes, agree the full price in advance or use a pre-arranged taxi or private transfer.

Taxi drivers in Hurghada have an astonishing talent for spotting tourists from far, far away; look at the approaching car and it may stop for you — at a price.

Before stepping in, find out if the driver speaks any English, and show the destination on a map. There are only a few streets with names, so the destination is often specified by a nearby place, such as a hotel, marina or resort. Discuss and agree the total price (not per person) before entering the car. Do not assume the meter will be used. After the driver agrees on a price, get in. Pay at the destination, get out and walk away.

To avoid confrontation with drivers, have the correct amount of money ready. Hand over the agreed amount at the destination, not before. Keep small notes if possible. Confirm the currency and amount clearly before departure, especially when paying in Egyptian pounds, euros or US dollars.

Taxi prices vary widely by negotiation, time of day, route, airport access, vehicle type and tourist season. As a rough local benchmark, short rides within Hurghada may be a few hundred Egyptian pounds, while airport pickups and longer trips to resort areas such as El Gouna, Sahl Hasheesh, Makadi Bay, Soma Bay, Safaga or Marsa Alam can cost considerably more. For longer journeys, agree the full fare in advance or use a pre-arranged taxi or private transfer.

• ABC Taxi, ☏ +20 100 222 82 94. Professional taxi service with fares agreed in advance. Bookings are usually made by phone from a local mobile number. Suitable for local rides and pre-arranged journeys around Hurghada; confirm the current fare before booking. Fares agreed in advance. (updated Jun 2026)

• HurghadaTransfer.de. Private airport transfer provider serving Hurghada International Airport and resort areas including Hurghada hotels, El Gouna, Sahl Hasheesh, Makadi Bay, Soma Bay, Safaga and Marsa Alam. Fares are confirmed before the ride; useful for airport arrivals, late flights, families and travellers with luggage. Fares confirmed before the ride. (updated Jun 2026)

Hurghada does not have many spectacular sights except for the Red Sea. However, daily one- or two-day trips are available into both Luxor and Cairo. The Nile at Luxor is popular, as are the Great Pyramids and the Sphinx in Giza, Cairo.

Note: For visitors on a package holiday, many of these trips will be offered as excursions by the tour operator. The tour company will add a hefty commission on top of the real price, so it may pay to shop around. However, booking with the tour operator does at least give some protection if things go wrong. Visitors will be approached by many people offering trips. Some will be OK, others not. It pays to search the internet for reviews of good operators.

If you were to choose to stay in your hotel complex for the duration of your break, you would miss out on much more than you bargained for. Swimming in the warm sea, windsurfing, para sailing, jetski, good shopping, excellent and varied cuisine from around the world are just a few things to mention, but there is more:

• Cruise across the Red Sea to the uninhabited island of Giftun surrounded by magical coral gardens. Enjoy a lazy day on the white sand or swim among the coral reefs. The reefs near the island have many fish and corals which makes it ideal for snorkelling. There are many types of boat trips available, from half day pirate cruises for youngsters to adult only day cruises.
• Quad-biking hundreds of miles into the Sahara desert for tea with a Bedoin tribe, then camel-riding across Biblical plains to see remote and ancient wonders. For a desert adventure, you can also ride motorbikes or beach buggies into the desert.
• You can also ride a glass bottom boat on which you can see the amazing coral reefs and underwater scenery.
• In the evening, you can go for a walk in the promenade area for some traditional cafes, shopping, or dining. There is a bowling and family entertainment center close by as well as a few malls and restaurants. Night life usually begins quite late, and you can find some clubs in close proximity to the promenade.

It might be windy in late March (or not). You may want to check if your beach resort hotel provides windscreens on the beach.

If your accommodation does not have its own beach: There are no beaches in Hurghada that are for free. You can use for example these ones:

• 27.22120633.8426361 El Sakia Beach (Near the marina). Entry: LE50.  (updated Oct 2022)
• 27.21299733.8426322 Orange Beach (Somewhat more south of the marina). Entry: LE100.  (updated Dec 2022)
• 27.25923733.8241323 El Sawaky Beach (In Northern Hurghada). A lot of space and just a few tourists. Entry: LE50.  (updated Nov 2022)

The main reason to visit Hurghada is the Red Sea, which is excellent for diving or snorkeling. See incredible coral reefs and hundreds of varieties of tropical fish just 10 m from the beach or with boat trips. Either your hotel will have dive escorts on site, or it can arrange a scuba diving expedition with guides. The divers are locals and generally excellent in handling beginners. You don't need to know how to swim to scuba dive. In late March, the water may be a bit cold, so a wet suit might be necessary. Most budget hotels have dives tours (2 regular dives) for €50 on offer, but if you are staying at one of the more posh accommodations, you will end up paying up to US$65. So better to step out of your comfort zone (aka hotel) and ask around for prices.

• Ashraf Divers (Ashraf Asheaf), ☏ +20 1223848445, [email protected]. Reliable, relaxed and friendly dive master. His dives include everything; travel, boat, equipment, food, drinks. Though, do not rely on him for booking your accommodation—read Egypt#Cope. WhatsApp: see phone number. WeChat: ashraf diver. See also: Ashraf Abat. As inexpensive as other good deals— $35 for 2 dives inkling full rental equipment (as of Okt.2022), depending on number of people and season. (updated Sep 2018)

The whole Red Sea coast has superb conditions for kitesurfing. Hurghada is no exception. Here you can find a lot of kite-spots with kite-schools and kite-stations. Here some of them:

• PlayKite, in the next bay from Nubia hotel. This kite spot has a lot of space for beginning and advanced riders
• Kite4Fun, near AMC Azur and Hawaii Le Jardin hotels. This place has shallow lagoon with flat water.
• Masters Surf School^{[dead link]}, in Panorama Bungalows Aqua Park Hurghada hotel. Small area of shallow water, so it is a good spot for intermediate riders
• Aeros School^{[dead link]}, near Play Kite station. There is also a shallow lagoon where any level rider can ride.

See also: Egypt#Buy

You can buy many souvenirs from the shops that are spread inside the main town (Sekalla high street) and along the beach areas, also the old town (el Dahar) has a wide selection of bazaars with cheaper prices than Sigala. There is a new shopping mall now open about a 10-minute taxi ride from the town, on Senzo Mall towards the airport road. It has a large Spinneys Hypermarket and many other shops, fast food outlets, a 5-screen cinema, and a moderate sized children's play area.

Remember to haggle, haggle and haggle everywhere except in restaurants and pharmacies. You should be able to get 75% off from the price that seller asks at first. This might vary with different products, so remember to check few shops for correct prices. There are souvenir shops that have fixed prices, mostly in New Hurghada area although these maye be higher than if you haggle in the souks. The well known "Cleopatra" shops, in Hurghada city Mamsha and Sheraton road, have a wide range of souvenirs such as shirts, woodwork and silver.

For brand-names and higher quality products, go to 'New Marina' and Sheraton road for Adidas, Timberland, Dockers and Levi's. Clothes for sale in the traditional bazaar (souq in Arabic) are often fake, although the banners show the well-known brand names.

About the perfume shops the milligram for LE1 that means the best perfume for LE25 because all the perfume are on oil base and rarely that you can find natural or original perfume. Be careful when they drag you inside, they will invite you to drink something often tea. If they feel you are rich they will buy cola, while they are chatting with you and let you smell some strong perfumes, it is advisable to refuse because if you drink you then have to buy.

Hurghada offers a variety of cuisine, including fast food, western restaurants, oriental food, and many others. KFC and McDonald's, and local fast food GAD, are present. There some Syrian restaurants in the Sheraton Road and more in the Marina, Indian, Thai, Sea food and Lebanese

• 27.21824133.8385031 China Town Restaurant, 36 Sheraton Rd, Hurghada 1. Chinese restaurant, which may be a welcome change.  (updated Sep 2022)
• 27.2209233.8366152 Restaurant مطعم اسماك. Seafood in an unfussy environment.  (updated Sep 2022)
• 27.21631833.8377393 Syrian Bakery.  (updated Sep 2022)
• 27.21979333.8355574 Isra Restaurant.  (updated Sep 2022)
• 27.21758133.8371555 Abo Omar pizza restaurant, Elantony Building, Sheraton Rd.  (updated Sep 2022)
• 27.21826133.8371836 Abo Adam.  (updated Sep 2022)
• 27.21114633.8400537 andy foul restaurant مطعم عندى فول.  (updated Sep 2022)
• 27.21797833.8381428 Acropolis Greek Taverna, Sheraton Rd.  (updated Sep 2022)

• 27.24066633.8413999 Al Mustafa Fish Restaurant. Delicious meals, variety of fish, low prices, welcoming host. LE30-80 (March 2018).  (updated Sep 2022)
• 27.24094333.84054410 Om Ammar, ☏ +20 1093946226. Small restaurant next to the street, sitting on couches, staff speaks hardly English, many local dishes available including BBQ, very local experience and prices. LE20-60.  (updated Mar 2018)

• 27.254733.813111 Oriental Dish (in the northern part of the city). Arabic, grill, shawarma, falafel. Has delicious and inexpensive falafel sandwiches. Falafel sandwich LE2.50.  (updated Jan 2018)

• 27.21267933.84152812 Charly’s Hot Stone Steak Hurghada, Kornesh road - old sheraton.  (updated Sep 2022)
• 27.22491133.84087913 Kahramana.  (updated Sep 2022)
• 27.22757933.84249814 Cheguevara Hurghada Marina, 50 S Marina Dr.  (updated Sep 2022)
• 27.23991133.84509215 Bordiehns Restaurant Arabia - Arabella, Arabia Azur.  (updated Sep 2022)
• 27.21433133.84250916 Caribbean Bar.  (updated Sep 2022)

Those new to Egypt will find karkaday (a drink made from an infusion of hibiscus, served hot or cold and reputed to have many health benefits) and chi (local version of tea, usually served in a glass) offered everywhere. Both are delicious and will usually come replete with a smoke on a sheesha pipe, known in the West as a hookah. Sheeshas are used for smoking molasses tobacco in various flavours, with the smoke passing through water before inhalation through a long tube attached to the bowl. Although they may resemble a device used to smoke illicit substances in the west (a bong), sheesha is legal.

Alcoholic drinks can usually be found in bars or hotels. Hurghada has a very western atmosphere so it is much easier to drink than in other areas of Egypt. Non-alcoholic drinks include canned soft drinks and fruit juice, and traditional Egyptian drinks including the aforementioned karkadeh, yansoon (aniseed tea), ganzabeel (ginger tea, reputed to have digestive benefits), irfa (cinnamon tea), and sahlab (a hot, drinkable pudding thickened with orchid-root starch and typically flavored with cinammon). Lemonade is also available both cold and hot, and may be made with mint.

Over the years, Hurghada has developed a bubbling reputation for its cosmopolitan nightlife scene, alongside the many bars within the new 27.2258633.841021 Hurghada Marina.

There are many bars, nightclubs and discos in Hurghada. Almost every hotel comes equipped with its own disco coupled with the world's first Hed Kandi Beach Bar, other nightlife leaders in the city include Hard Rock Cafe, Little Budha, Calypso Disco, the R&B Club, and throughout the summer months you can find the popular Voodoo parties (every Wednesday) within the Grand Hotel Resorts.

There are many other discos and late-night bars dotted around the city, generally speaking ask at your hotel or tour guide to recommend a venue.

• 27.2137833.839262 Praha Cafe (at the end of Sheraton Rd). Czech pub.  (updated Mar 2023)
• 27.23992233.8396253 Dubai Cafe. Variety of non-alcoholic drinks and hookah, welcoming local atmosphere, street-side and indoor lounge area. cheap.  (updated Mar 2018)

Large tour operators such as Tui have their own resorts or block bookings with newer local groups like Jaz. These are often the "all inclusive" variety. These may not appeal to the independent traveller, but they can still be a good base for exploring the area. There are plenty of internet sites to find reviews and book these.

A little internet searching will throw up some private self-catering accommodation that is usually owned by Europeans as a holiday home, which gives much more independence than staying in a resort hotel and is potentially much cheaper. Budget hotels catering to Egyptians with rooms at LE50 can be found near the Upper Egypt bus station.

• 27.22093233.840141 Golden Rose Hotel, Qesm Hurghada, ☏ +20 653440876. Good value. Includes access to a beach (200 m) – not great but free chairs and towels. There is a dog that continuously barks and fights with other dogs or various by-passers, even during the night. Single from LE177.  (updated Dec 2017)
• 27.2600233.819542 Snafer Hotel (in the northern part of the city), ☏ +20 653540260. Almost even better value than Golden Rose but without free beach access. But there is Sea Sand Resort around the corner, which charges LE50 for a whole day of beach access. However, it is in the northern part of the city, where not much is happening due to the low occupation of the local resorts. Single from LE100.  (updated Jan 2018)

• 27.2095133.845953 Sunrise Holidays Resort, Corniche Road. Adults only.  (updated Dec 2017)
• 27.1019533.826714 Sunrise Crystal Bay Resort, Km 19 Village Road, P.O. Box 20.  
• 27.2657233.804395 Sea Star Beau Rivage, Al Hilal, Military Hospital Street.  
• 27.1851833.826926 Giftun Azur Beach Resort, Village Road.  

• 27.1971533.844377 Marriott Beach Resort, El Corniche Road, P.O.Box 38 (just south of disused Sheraton), ☏ +20 65-340 44 20. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: Noon. On Resort strip. Small beach but good water-sports facilities, Aquarius Diving is based here.  (updated Feb 2018)
• 27.0763133.882038 Oberoi Sahl Hasheesh, The Oberoi Beach Resort, Sahl Hasheesh (Sahl Hasheesh is 15 km S of downtown Hurghada), ☏ +20 65 346 1040. Opulent Moorish-style hotel  (updated Feb 2018)

• 27.2580733.812071 Hurghada Clinic, El Kawther, build. 222, apart. 207, Red Sea, ☏ +20 11 148 27733, [email protected]. Medical clinic with doctors who can speak English and Polish. International travel insurance policies are accepted.  (updated Mar 2023)
• 27.3955633.669872 El Gouna Hospital, El Gouna, Red Sea, ☏ +20 65 358 0011-19, fax: +20 65 358 0020, [email protected]. Professional medical service across the red Sea. Various departments with staff who can speak English, French Russian and German. International insurance policies are often accepted.  (updated Mar 2023)

• Italy, Mastaba Red Sea - Hurgada, ☏ +20 65 3449 366.  

In 2018, there were complaints of guests falling ill at the Steigenberger Aqua Magic hotel because of possible food safety issues, including undercooked food and lapses in cleanliness. Two British travellers died; the BBC reports travel agency Thomas Cook removed its clients from that hotel and in some cases arranged to fly them home.

Because of the heat combined with inadequate food hygiene, gastrointestinal ailments are common (sickness and diarrhoea). The better tourist resorts do make an effort to have good hygiene, but nothing is ever certain.

• Luxor – The obvious and popular next destination. It can be done on a day-trip, though that's a bit mad, and most of a 20-hour day. Ask around for reputable operators: a cheap tour will be overcrowded, first too cold then too hot in a poorly-sprung minibus, and you will see less of Karnak and the Valley of the Kings and a whole heap more of the driver's uncle's souvenir shop.
• Aswan – Reached via Luxor but less hassle then it. Once a week there's a ferry across Lake Nasser to Wadi Halfa in Sudan, the only surface route between the two countries.