French
DeutschEastern Suburbs of Istanbul comprise the districts of Ataşehir, Maltepe, Kartal, Ümraniye, Çekmeköy, Sancaktepe, Pendik and Tuzla. They exclude the much older towns along the Bosphorus, described on separate pages. They're modern, a mix of residential and industrial, so most visitors are here for business, or to transit the major transport hubs. The only significant tourist trade is "medical tourism": many health premises serve an international clientele, so this where you come to get your "Turkey teeth" fitted.
Understand
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Istanbul sprawled east and west during the 20th century, to engulf a series of towns and farmlands. These had a long history, especially on the coast where boats facilitated transport, but their antiquities were either spirited away to museums and private collections or entombed beneath modern roads and buildings. Development was especially vigorous near the coast, where land was reclaimed for ship-building and other industries. The growth of leisure time and disposable income brought restaurants, amusement parks, and shopping shopping shopping, and in the 21st century the Marmaray and Metro railways put this area within a short ride of city centre.
Get in
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Eastern Suburbs
- And see main Istanbul page for transport to and within the city.
- 1 Sabiha Gökçen Airport (SAW IATA) (20 km). This has many domestic and international flights and is more convenient for the east of the city, and less congested. Metro M4 runs via Pendik and Kartal to Kadıköy on the Asian side, where you can continue to the European side by ferry or transfer to the Marmaray train at Ayrılık Çeşmesi. There are also buses, but they get snarled in traffic.
- Istanbul Airport (IST IATA) is away northwest of the city, so the trade-off is its excellent international connections versus longer transfer times to the eastern suburbs. Take the Metro into the city and change to go east; with a rental car follow O-7 over the Bosphorus and round past SAW Airport.
- 2 Pendik Train Station, Yargıçlar Sk. High speed YHT trains from Istanbul stop at Pendik on their way east to Eskişehir, where the track forks for Ankara or Konya. They start from Söğütlüçeşme in the city: you can't ride them for that short hop, nor east to Gebze. The slow overnight train between Istanbul and Ankara also stops here. Marmaray B1 suburban trains run every 20 min west to city centre, Ataköy and Halkali, and east to Gebze. No Metro connection, that line runs 2 km further inland. The station main entrance is north side on Abdülhalik Renda Cd, for buses and taxis.
- 3 Dudullu Bus Terminal, Burhan Sk. This has good connections to all parts of Turkey, as many long-distance coaches start at Anadolu Otogar, circle the city, then call at Dudullu before continuing east.
- 4 Samandira Otogar is another major stop: Metro Turizm buses usually start from here.
- 5 Pendik Pier has IDO ferries from Yalova across the Sea of Marmara, taking 45 min, foot passengers only. Water buses no longer sail along this coast: they became obsolete once the Metro and Marmaray lines opened.
- 6 Bostancı Pier just west of this district has ferries to the Princes Islands, Yalova, the Marmara Islands and Bandırma.
Metro lines:
- M4 runs from Kadıköy east to Kartal, Pendik and Sabiha Gökçen Airport.
- M5 runs from Üsküdar east to Çekmeköy.
- M8 connects with those and with Marmaray at Bostancı.
- M12 runs from Göztepe north to Ümraniye.
- Marmaray: the cross-city suburban train line (B1), picks up at Üsküdar (transfer to M5), Ayrılıkçeşme (transfer to M4; 1.6 km north of the Kadıköy waterfront), and Söğütlüçeşme (transfer to Metrobüs; 1.7 km east of the Kadıköy waterfront) and serves the neighbourhoods and suburbs on the Marmara coast, as far east as Gebze.
Main Roads:
- D100 (or E5) motorway and O-4 (TEM) highway.
- Sahil Yolu or "the causeway" follows the Marmara coast.
- Bağdat Street, often known as Minibüs Yolu.
By bicycle: there are some 20 km of marked bicycle lanes along the causeway, starting from a few km east of Kadıköy, passing by eventually reaching the eastern suburbs of the city. The bike lane is well-maintained but watch out for pedestrians which will be plenty during nice weathers.
See
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- 1 Hekimbaşı Hunting Lodge (Hekimbaşı Av Köşkü), Okul Cd 12, Ümraniye. This was built for Hekimbaşı Küçük Hayrullah Efendi (1817-1866) by the architect Sarkis Balyan. It's been closed for restoration for years so you just admire the exterior from the park.
- 2 Nezahat Gökyiğit Botanical Garden, Rıfat Danışman Sk, Ataşehir, ☏ +90 216 456 4437. Tu-Su 09:30-18:00. Extensive botanic gardens. Not always peaceful as they're set within the loops of a motorway interchange. Free.
- Mimar Sinan Mosque is an imposing 16th century building west side of the interchange. Access via Ataşehir Blv, open 24 hours.
- 3 Sustainable Art House (Sürdürülebilir Sanat Evi), Sülün Cd 19, Ataşehir, ☏ +90 532 577 9994. Quirky gallery exhibiting artworks made from waste material: cables, plastic bottles and caps, denim scraps and so on.
- 4 Gallery 11.17, Fırın Cd 29, Ataşehir, ☏ +90 545 845 2680. M-Sa 11:00-18:30. Small commercial art gallery.
- 5 Küçükyalı Archeopark on Gürkan Sk in Maltepe was an archaeological dig into the ruins of the 9th-century Satyros Monastery. It's been abandoned for years.
- 6 Damatris Palace, Cami Sk 15, Sancaktepe. Closed. Damatris is better known as Demeter, Grecian god of agriculture and fertility, and this hunting lodge - cum - country palace was built for Tiberius II Constantine (ruled 578-582 AD). It fell into ruin in the 13th century and is barricaded off for restoration.
- 7 Maltepe is a modern town: Beşçeşmeler Sk 200 m northwest of the station is a pleasant alley with cafes. Beş çeşmeler means five springs, and there's an old drinking fountain. Maltepe Central Mosque on Bağdat Cd was built in 1951 in traditional style. Yaşar Kemal Cultural Center is 500 m further north on Kışlalı Cd. Beach Park stretches along the shore. Marmaray trains stop at Maltepe and Süreyya Beach 1 km further north.
- Surp Nişan Armenian Orthodox Church (Surp Nişan Ermeni Kilisesi), Soğanlık Cd 2, Kartal (corner of Egemenlik Blv). This was built in the 16th century as a chapel, which collapsed and was rebuilt as a school and church in 1776. It's only occasionally open.
- 8 Can Geyran Seashells Centre, Kırgülü Sk 13, Kartal, ☏ +90 216 383 1662. Tu W & Su 11:00-17:00. A display of some 300 seashells. Free.
- Dragos is a wooded hill east of the Seashells Centre, good for picnics but the trees limit the view.
- 9 Aydos Forest is ranged over a hill 20 km east of the city, at 537 m the highest point of Istanbul. It's a state park, and there's the scrappy remains of a Roman fort. The nearest Metro is Kartal 6 km away, then take a dolmuş to Yakacık.
- 10 Natural Science Museum (Doğa Bilim Müzesi), Bengü Sk 11/A, Güzelyalı, ☏ +90 216 493 5533. Daily 09:00-15:00. Old style collection of stuffed animals, regarding you reproachfully with their glass eyes. Adult 200 TL.
- 11 Kamil Abduş Lagoon is a park open 24 hours, easiest accessed via its north bank on Tersaneler Cd. It's the last of the many brackish lagoons that once lined this coast, now lost to land reclamation and shipyards. It's a peaceful spot for bird-watching, until the mosquitoes find you.
- 12 Tuzla is the modern town around the lagoon, with its historic core of Çarşı on the south coast. On Tahaffuzhane Cd, the Bath of Theodora is a scrappy 6th century ruin: she was wife of Emperor Justinian. Tuzla City Museum[dead link] is at Cumhuriyet Cd 5, open daily 10:00-18:00. Viaport Marina is 2 km east, see below.
- 13 Uçakpark is an open-air science museum just across the city boundary in Gebze, but it might be easier to reach from eastern Istanbul.
Do
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- 1 Ülker Sports Arena, Ihlamur Blv, Ataşehir, ☏ +90 216 687 2100. A multi-purpose arena for sports and concerts, owned by Fenerbahçe and home court of their basketball team. The museum displays their trophies.
- 2 Ataşehir Golf Club, Atapark Cd, Ataşehir, ☏ +90 216 412 3242. It's only 9 holes, but one of the few golf clubs in the city.
- DasDas and Lizzbon are performance venues within Metropol shopping centre in Ataşehir, 200 m south of the Botanic Gardens.
- 3 Kayış Dağı is a steep wooded hill of 438 m, southeast of Kayışdağı district. Multiple access points, wear stout shoes.
- 4 Viaport Marina is a large leisure complex with plenty for all ages. It's 2 km from Tuzla Marmaray station, connected by bus. There are four main areas and several subsidiary, with a central online ticket portal. Plus shopping, but don't follow directions to Viaport Shopping Centre - that's away north of SAW airport by O-7.
- Marina Aquapark. April-Sep daily 10:00-18:00. Istanbul's largest aquapark, with numerous slides. Foreigner 700 TL.
- Tema Park (formerly Pirate Island). Daily 10:00-22:00. A theme park, with a roller coaster and other rides.
- Dönme Dolap is the Ferris wheel, a standalone ride.
- Aslan Park. Daily 10:00-18:00. A zoo of big cats; "Aslan" means lion.
- ViaSea Aquarium. Daily 10:00-18:00. An aquarium focused on tropical species, including reptiles.
- Softplay Deneyimi is a children's soft play area.
- 5 Çekmeköy Nature Park (Çekmeköy Doğa Parkı), Doğa Parkı İçi Yolu, Çekmeköy. A bosky open space.
- 6 Park of İstanbul, 30th Ağustos Cd 3, Çekmeköy, ☏ +90 216 363 4444. Small zoo, but it's the largest in Istanbul. Plus catchpenny sidelines such as the zipwire. Adult 600 TL, child 450 TL.
- 7 Nefes Orman, Mazıdağı Sk, Sancaktepe. M-F 10:00-17:30, Sa Su 12:00-22:00. Multi-purpose outdoor area for events and sports.
- 8 Ömerli Barrage Lake was created in 1973 as a city reservoir. There are no water activities, but various spots for camping and picnics. Probably the best of these (as marked) is reached along the bad road west from Kurtdoğmuş village.
- 9 Istanbul Park Circuit, Göçbeyli Bv No:1, Tuzla, ☏ +90 212 351 5045. Turkey's main motor-racing circuit. It last staged a Grand Prix or Formula One race in 2021.
Buy
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- AVM means a shopping centre, alışveriş merkezi.
- 1 Meydan AVM, Balkan Cd 62, Ümraniye. Daily 10:00-22:00.
- Metropol AVM is 100 m south of Nezahat Gökyiğit Botanical Garden. It's not hard to find as here stands Istanbul's tallest building, at 301 m.
- 2 Watergarden AVM, Kızılbegonya Sk 10/1, Ataşehir. Daily 10:00-22:00.
- 3 Hilltown AVM, Siteler Yolu 28, Maltepe. Daily 10:00-22:00.
- 4 İstmarina AVM, Ankara Cd 145, Kartal. Daily 10:00-22:00.
Eat
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Inexpensive çiğ köfte, döner, fish & bread, kokoreç, patso and fast food shops are found everywhere. The AVMs - shopping centres - all have a range of eating places. On the seafront, carts sell corn and simit and tavuk & pilav (rice with chicken). City-run restaurants such as Sosyal Tesis or Kent Lokantası also serve affordable meals.
- Tepeüstü Kavşağı is a cluster of eating places in Ümraniye, just south of Meydan AVM and west of Ihlamurkuyu Metro Station (M5).
- City's Istanbul is a shopping centre with eating places opposite Marriott Asia Hotel on Kayışdağı Cd.
- Pendik Marina next to Pendik ferry pier has restaurants and cafes.
- 1 Gözdağı Tesis, Dumlupınar, Pendik. Hilltop restaurant with views of the islands.
- Tuzla beach has a string of restaurants, with more east at Viaport Marina.
Drink
[edit | edit source]Tea and coffee shops are everywhere. City-run Beltur cafes offer affordable drinks and snacks.
- Bulvar 216 is a shopping and eating centre at Gelincik Sk 4 in Ataşehir, 500 m west of Metropol AVM.
- Süreyya Plajı is the northward extension of Maltepe beach, a strip of taverns and cafes.
Sleep
[edit | edit source]- This area has hundreds of hotels, mostly aimed at business travellers.
- 1 Crowne Plaza Istanbul - Oryapark, Küçüksu Cd 58, Ümraniye, ☏ +90 216 666 6400. Smart clean hotel, spacious rooms. B&B double 5000 TL.
- DoubleTree by Hilton Ümraniye is 500 m south of Crowne Plaza at Haldun Alagaş Cd 2.
- Mercure İstanbul Ümraniye is 500 m east of Crowne Plaza at Site Yolu Cd 20 by the highway intersection.
- 2 Istanbul Marriott Hotel Asia, Kayışdağı Cd 3, Ataşehir, ☏ +90 216 570 0000. Comfy relaxing chain hotel. B&B double 4000 TL.
- Hilton Istanbul Kozyatağı is 1 km northwest of the Marriott at Batman Sk 4.
- Sheraton Grand Istanbul Ataşehir is 1 km north of the Marriott at Mor Sumbul Sk 1.
- Ibis Styles is 500 northeast of the Marriott at Yenidoğan Cd 6.
- Radisson Blu is 1 km northeast of the Marriott on Yakut Cd.
- 3 Burgu Arjaan by Rotana, Samanyolu Sk 23, Maltepe, ☏ +90 216 500 7777. Great reviews for comfort and service. B&B double 3000 TL.
- Tango Arjaan by Rotana is next door at Efe Boz Sk 29.
- 4 Titanic Business Kartal, Kaptanıderya Cd 37, Kartal, ☏ +90 216 453 5050. Good value business hotel. B&B double 3000 TL.
- Ramada Encore[dead link] is 1 km east of Titanic Business at Yakacık Yeni Cd 53.
- 5 Marine Hotel, Erol Kaya Cd 202, Pendik, ☏ +90 216 483 5693. Inexpensive hotel. B&B double 3000 TL.
- Butik Pendik Otel is 500 m east of Pendik YHT Station at Erol Kaya Cd 172.
- 6 Ibis Istanbul Tuzla, Selin Sk 7, Tuzla, ☏ +90 216 581 8800. Inexpensive Accor hotel. B&B double 3000 TL.
- DoubleTree by Hilton Tuzla is 200 m south of the Ibis at Mustafa Kemal Cd 5.
- Crowne Plaza Istanbul Tuzla[dead link] is within the Viaport Marina complex in Tuzla.
Learn
[edit | edit source]The following universities have at least one campus within the districts: Doğuş University, Fenerbahçe University, Istanbul Technical University, Maltepe University, Marmara University, Okan University, Özyeğin University, Piri Reis University and Sabancı University.
Go next
[edit | edit source]- Downtown Istanbul is easily reached by public transport. Sultanahmet is its magnificent core west of the Bosphorus, but don't miss the historic Asia-side districts of Üsküdar and Kadıköy.
- Princes' Islands lie 3 km offshore. There's no ferry from here, go west to Bostancı Pier.
- Gebze is the next city east beyond Istanbul. It's modern and industrial, yet it contains a 16th century külliyesi (a religious complex), the tomb of Hannibal, and a hobbit village.