French
DeutschKadıköy is the Asia-side district of Istanbul closest to the Old City Europe-side, 2 km away across the Bosphorus. Travellers between continents therefore transferred here. Nowadays most visitors simply day-trip for the sake of the scenic ferry ride, but it's worth lingering for the buzzing atmosphere of bazaars, street art, independent bookstores, bars and cafés.
Understand
[edit | edit source]This settlement is much older than the "Old City" of Byzantium / Constantinople, being colonised by the Greeks in 685 BCE. In legend Byzas set out to find a suitable abode, and soothsayers foretold he would found his colony across the water from the "land of the blind". His search led him to an easily-defended peninsula with an excellent natural harbour, where he encountered fishermen from Chalcedon on the other side of the Bosphorus, which had fewer natural endowments. Byzas reckoned these folk must be "the blind" of the prophecy, who'd failed to see the advantages of the site so close to them, and who'd built their city in a poorer location. So Byzas laid the first stone of Byzantium on that peninsula, while Chalcedon was mocked as "The Land of the Blind".
The Bosphorus is 2 km wide at this point as it enters the Sea of Marmara, so Chalcedon - nowadays Kadıköy - has always been a port for long-distance shipping, as well as a ferry port for the small craft crossing from Europe-side. It attracted a merchant class of Greek, Armenian, Jewish and Arab traders, whose heritage remains in old mansions and churches. Although it was only incorporated into the city of Istanbul in the late 19th century, it was under city jurisdiction from the time of the Ottoman conquest of 1453 - köy means village and Kadı is an Islamic judge.
Chalcedon gives its name to chalcedony, a semi-precious silicate whose commercial varieties include agate, carnelian, chrysoprase, heliotrope and onyx.
Get in
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And see Istanbul#Get in for long-distance transport routes.
By train
[edit | edit source]1 Haydarpaşa is the historic Asia-side terminus for Turkish trains, but it's been closed for rebuilding for years. It's now supposed to re-open in late 2026, believe it when you see it.
2 Söğütlüçeşme Station is the temporary terminus until Haydarpaşa re-opens. YHT fast trains run east from here to Eskişehir, Ankara, Sivas, Konya and Karaman, see Turkey#Get around. A sleeper trundles overnight to Ankara. Söğütlüçeşme is also a stop for cross-city Marmaray trains. It's not on the Metro, but there's a Metrobüs hub.
3 Bostancı Station is a stop for YHT fast trains, the sleeper, and Marmaray trains. The Metro (line M8) is 100 m east and the ferry pier is 200 m south.
Marmaray the cross-city suburban train runs every 15 min from Halkalı in the western suburbs then beneath the Old City and Bosphorus out through the eastern suburbs and beyond to Gebze. Line B1 (to date the only line) runs near the coast, with stations at Ayrılık Çeşmesi (for Metro M4), Söğütlüçeşme (for mainline), Feneryolu, Göztepe, Erenköy, Suadiye and Bostancı (for mainline).
Metro: two lines cross this district, with a third under construction.
- M4 from Kadıköy waterfront east via Ayrılık Çeşmesi and 5 other stations to Bostancı, Kartal, Pendik and Sabiha Gökçen Airport (SAW IATA).
- M8 from Bostancı pier north via Kozyatağı (for M4), Dudullu (for bus station and M5) and 10 other stations to Parseller.
Tram T3 is a heritage tram that loops from Kadıköy along Bahariye Cd and then around the peninsula of Moda back to Kadıköy. It's more a nostalgia trip than practical transport.
By road
[edit | edit source]Main roads will demand all your patience, especially in rush hour.
D-100 / E5 spans the width of Turkey, from Edirne and the Bulgarian border through the city, crossing the Bosphorus by the Avrasya Tunnel. It runs about 2 km from the coast out east to Gebze, and eventually to the Iranian border beyond Doğubayazıt. It's divided highway not motorway.
O-1 is the motorway that now diverts E5 north of Old City and across Bosphorus Bridge, where it becomes E80.
Sahilyolu or "Causeway" is the main highway along the coast.
Fahrettin Kerim Gökay Cd is an east-west thoroughfare some 5 km inland, always snarled with traffic and known locally as Minibüs Yolu.
Buses are snarled in the same traffic, with the exception of Metrobüs which uses a dedicated bus lane. There's only a single line, from Beylikdüzü out in the western suburbs via Edirnekapı (for Old City) and Mecidiyeköy (for business district) to Söğütlüçeşme.
By bicycle: there are some 20 km of marked bicycle lanes along the causeway, starting from a few km east of Kadıköy, via Bostancı to the eastern suburbs. The bike lane is well-maintained but watch out for pedestrians.
By boat
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4 Kadıköy pier is the landing point for IDO ferries across the Sea of Marmara from Bandırma. Others cross to Pendik to the west and Yenikapı in the Old City. They sail to Bostancı from the Marmara Islands.
Small ferries criss-cross the Bosphorus, and this is still a great way to arrive. From Europe-side they sail from Eminönü, Karaköy and Beşiktaş.
Ferries also sail to the nearby Princes' Islands but no longer follow the coast to Kartal, Pendik and the eastern suburbs: these routes became obsolete once the Marmaray line opened.
See
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- Haydarpaşa Station (see above) has been under renovation for years. The exterior is still worth a look - it was built by the Germans in 1908 in Teutonic-castle style - to make an impact on travellers from Asia about to step into Europe, and a counterpoint to Sirkeci station on the European side which is Oriental in style.
- British cemetery (İngiliz Mezarlığı) is a tranquil leafy place hidden away just north of Haydarpaşa station. Approach from the east via Tibbiye Cd, the University Hospital entrance and Burhan Felek Cd. An obelisk commemorates the Crimean War (1853-56), when Britain and France backed the Ottoman Empire to prevent Russia muscling in on its territories. Those wounded who survived the long evacuation from battle were taken to Scutari (nowadays Üsküdar) to the care of Florence Nightingale. Other Victorian, modern and Commonwealth war graves indicate Britain's continuing involvement in the region.
- 1 Yeldeğirmeni ( M4 Kadıköy 800 m,
M4 Ayrılıkçeşme 850 m, 
Kadıköy 400 m) is a boho quarter - the name means "windmills" and until the 1850s this was open countryside. It urbanised into a Jewish district, further boosted by German labourers building Haydarpaşa. It was one of the first quarters of Istanbul to have apartment buildings; several historic buildings still dot the area. - Yeldeğirmeni Art House is an old church converted into a concert venue. It's at İskele Sk 43/1 at the corner with Yeldeğirmeni Sk.
- Hemdat İsrael Synagogue is at İzzettin Sk 61, a block beyond the south end of Yeldeğirmeni Sk. It remains active but in 2026 is closed to visits.
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- 2 Bull Statue (Boğa Heykeli) stands at the junction of Söğütlüçeşme Cd with Bahariye Cd and is a popular rendezvous spot. It was cast in bronze by Isidore Bonheur in 1864 and exhibited in Paris, where it caught the eye of Sultan Abdülaziz, who acquired it and two dozen other pieces to adorn his Beylerbeyi Palace. There's an alternative cock-and-bull story about the beast following the German Kaiser around, perhaps mistaking him for Zeus. It's been on its present site since 1987.
- Surp Levon Armenian Catholic Church, Ali Suavi Sk 1 (50 m south of Bull Statue). W-Su 11:00-17:00. "Surp Levon" was the 5th century Pope Leo I. The church was built in 1905 and is rather stark and modern.
- Surp Takavor is an Armenian church probably built in the 17th century but first documented in 1722. It's at Mukadderhane Cd 44 by the fish market and seldom open, try around mass on Sunday morning.
- Sultan Mustafa III Mosque is on Söğütlüçeşme Cd opposite the ferry pier. It was built for Mustafa III who ruled 1757-1754; he thought he could win a quick war against Russia, but instead lost Crimea, Romania and much of Bulgaria.
- 3 Süreyya Opera House, Bahariye Cd 29 ( T3 Bahariye 50 m, M4 Kadıköy 700 m), ☏ +90 216 346 1531. This 1927 Beaux Arts building was named for its patron Süreyya İlmen Pasha and styled on European theatres. Crucial difference was, they didn't install a stage or artistes' rooms, so it flopped as an opera house and was converted to a cinema. From 2007 it was rebuilt to its original purpose, and now hosts ballet, opera and classical music.
- 4 Hagia Triada Greek Orthodox Church (Aya Triada Rum Ortodoks Kilisesi), Hacı Şükrü Sk 17, Caferağa, ☏ +90 216 347 1055. Su 09:00-11:00. This is still in use and only open for services.
- 5 French Catholic Church of the Assumption, Cem Sk 11 (Tram T3 to Moda Cd). Built in 1859, it occasionally hosts concerts but is otherwise only open for mass.
- 6 Barış Manço Museum, Yusuf Kamilpaşa Sk 5, ☏ +90 216 337 9413. Tu-Su 09:00-15:30. This mansion was built in 1900 for British businessman William Whittall, but it's best known as the home of rock star Barış Manço (1943-1999). He lived here from 1984 and it's now a museum of his life and work. Adult 100 TL.
- Moda is the neighbourhood surrounding Barış Manço Museum. The north end of Moda Cd is a modern cafe strip, Tram
crosses midway on Cem Sk, the south end has a sprinkling of neo-classical mansions. - 7 Müze Gazhane, Kurbağalıdere Cd 125, Hasanpaşa (Acıbadem 850 m,
Söğütlüçeşme 900 m, 
Hasanpaşa 150 m). Tu-Su 10:00-18:00. A cultural centre converted from a late 19th century town gas plant. It includes a climate museum, a museum of cartoon and humour, theatre stages, art galleries and exhibition space, and a restaurant/cafe. - 8 Fenerbahçe Mosque at Fener Kalamış Cd 69 was built in 1986 in traditional style.
- Kalamış is the district north of the mosque. It was an ancient port (καλάμι is Greek for reed) and had a grand late Roman paace, of which nothing remains.
- Saint Augustin is a Roman Catholic church 100 m south of Fenerbahçe Mosque at Atlıhan Sk 3, still in use.
- Fenerbahçe (south of the mosque) means "lighthouse garden". The namesake football team were founded here in 1907 but now play 2 km further north in Söğütlüçeşme.
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- 9 Kemal Sunal Museum, Göztepe 60 Yıl Parkı, Caddebostan, ☏ +90 532 363 0989. Tu-Su 10:00-18:00. Kemal Sunal (1944-2000) was a comic actor, playing a clumsy little guy stumbling perplexed through life, and this house depicts his life and career. Late in life he achieved a masters degree, by selecting himself as thesis topic.
- Göztepe 60 Yıl Parkı is a pleasant green space stretching south from the museum.
- 10 Toy Museum (Oyuncak Müzesi), Dr Zeki Zeren Sk 17, Göztepe ( Göztepe 750 m), ☏ +90 216 359 4550, [email protected]. Tu-Su 10:00-18:00. Historic collection of 2000 toys, the oldest are a French-made violin from 1817 and a US-made doll from 1820. Exhibits are museum pieces not interactive. Adult 420 TL, conc or child 360 TL.
- 11 Kazım Karabekir Paşa Museum, Kazım Karabekir Paşa Sk 4, Erenköy, ☏ +90 216 385 7125. Tu, Th & Sa 10:00-12:30, 13:30-16:00. Mansion of General Karabekir (1882-1948), who fought in the War of Independence. Free.
- 12 DeCollage Art Space, Müzeyyen Sk 4/1, Suadiye, ☏ +90 532 363 0989. Daily 10:00-18:00. Gallery and workspace for contemporary art, and hosts other cultural events.
- Bostancıbaşı Bridge was built in 1523 AD (930 AH) and was a control gate for entering and leaving the city. It's on Bağdat Cd just east of Bostancı Metro station, crossing a stream that is now dry.
Do
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- Football: 1 Fenerbahçe SK, Şükrü Saraçoğlu Stadium. They play soccer in Süper Lig, the top tier, and routinely qualify for European tournaments. There's also a museum of the club, which fields teams in several other sports such as basketball.
- Yoğurtçu Park just south of the football stadium is an area for strolling or dog-walking.
- Haldun Taner Theatre, Rıhtım Cd. This remains closed for renovation.
- 2 Caddebostan Cultural Centre (CKM), Haldun Taner Sk 11 ( Erenköy 1.5 km), ☏ +90 216 467 3600. This has a theatre and six-screen cinema.
- Caddebostan beaches are three small sandy inlets. Istanbul Windsurf Center is based here. Two fine Ottoman mansions have fallen derelict, Tevhide Hanım and Ragıp Paşa.
- 3 Bostancı Amusement Park, Mehmet Şevki Paşa Cd 8, Bostancı, ☏ +90 216 384 7210. M-F 13:00-00:00, Sa Su 11:00-00:00. Amusement park and performance venue.
Buy
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- 1 Tepe Nautilus AVM, Fatih Sk 1. Daily 10:00-22:00. Large modern shopping mall next to Ayrılık Çeşmesi Marmaray station.
- 2 Balık Pazarı, Güneşli Bahçe Sk. Daily 09:00-20:30. The fish bazaar majors on fresh fish and seafood, but the upper streets have a range of other stores, from herbal produce to second-hand bookshops.
- Akmar Pasaj is an alley off Neşet Ömer Sk a block south of the fish bazaar. It's stuffed with second-hand books, CDs and the like. Books in English are aimed at learners rather than native speakers.
- Bahariye Cd stretches south from the bull statue past the opera house. It's a pedestrian mall with the T3 heritage tram rumbling down the middle, and lined with shops and cafes.
- 3 Salı Pazarı, Uzunçayır Cd, Hasanpaşa. Daily 09:30-21:00. "Tuesday Bazaar" is actually open daily. It's some distance from tourist sights so you'll find good prices on practical goods from produce to clothes to housewares.
- Bağdat Cd stretches interminably east, about 500 m inland from the coast, with Feneryolu, Suadiye and Bostancı Marmaray stations along it. It's lined with shops, plus cafes but the traffic makes it too ratty for boulevard-strolling. In 1638 Sultan Murat IV marched all the way down it to capture Baghdad without ever finding the precise knick-knacks he was looking for in the shops.
- 4 Kozzy AVM, Buket Sk 14, Kozyatağı. Daily 10:00-22:00. Shopping centre with cafes and a theatre.
Eat
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Budget shops everywhere sell çiğ köfte, döner, kokoreç, patso and fast food. On the seafront, handcarts sell corn, simit and tavuk & pilav (rice with chicken).
Balık-ekmek (“fish-bread”) is a grilled fish within half a loaf, a popular inexpensive meal. Find it at kiosks by the ferry pier.
There are hundreds of eating places and the best way to pick a winner is to amble down the street, and smell what's most appetising in a place that looks clean. This page therefore simply indicates localities where they're concentrated, plus a few stand-outs.
- Balık Pazarı the fish bazaar (above) is studded with eating places for trad food, not just seafood.
- Çiya Sofrası, Güneşlibahçe Sk 43 (in the Fish Bazaar), ☏ +90 216 418 5115. Daily 11:30-22:00. Great reviews for its quality and wide menu selection.
- Ali Suavi Cd is known as Sanatkarlar Cd, "artists' street". It's an alley lined with cafes a block south of the Bull statue, passing by Surp Levon Church.
- Fener Kalamış Cd is the main street from Fenerbahçe Mosque (above) south past the marina to the park. Dozens of cafes along here.
- Söğütlüçeşme eating strip is in the blocks north of the railway station.
- Haçapuri, Fahrettin Kerim Gökay Cd 11, Söğütlüçeşme (200 m north of station), ☏ +90 216 450 2300. Tu-Sa 10:30-21:00, Su 09:30-21:00. Their specialty is pide, flatbread with a core of meat, eggs or preserves.
- Suadiye is the better Marmaray station for the strip 1-2 km west of Bostancı.
- Günaydin, Kazım Özalp Sk 58, Suadiye, ☏ +90 216 417 9209. Daily 12:00-24:00. Upmarket kebab restaurant on the waterfront.
- Bostancı eating strip is around that ferry pier and station, and in the streets north of Bağdat Cd.
- Hatay Restaurant, Bağdat Cd 526, Bostancı (200 m NW of Bostancı station), ☏ +90 216 361 3357. Daily 13:00-23:30. A trad restaurant frequented by literary types.
Drink
[edit | edit source]- Coffee chains include Starbucks, Gloria Jean's, and Kahve Dünyası especially for Turkish coffee.
- Caferağa is crowded with pubs in the blocks between the fish bazaar and Bahariye Cd; Kadife Sk is known as Barlar Sokağı, "bars street". Favourites include Karga, Arkaoda, Ağaç Ev, Bina, Revolte and Muhit.
- Karga, Kadife Sk 16, Caferağa. Daily 12:00-02:00. A finely decorated bar in a three-storey old building with wooden ceilings and floors. Also has a small yard at the back.
- Ağaç Ev (Tree House), Osmancık Sk 13, ☏ +90 532 067 2886. Daily 11:00-04:00. Late spot for cocktails and live music.
- Moda Tea Garden (Moda Çay Bahçesi) is in the seafront park, south end of Moda Cd, open daily 07:00-00:00. Great views across to Old city but not much food.
- Şaşkınbakkal is the neighbourhood around Bağdat Cd northwest of Suadiye station towards Caddibostan. Favorites include Old English Pub and Ferida cocktail bar.
Sleep
[edit | edit source]There's a slew of inexpensive places along Kadıköy ferry pier (Rıhtım).
- 1 Hush Hostel Lounge, İskele Sk 46 (500 m north-east of Kadiköy ferry pier), ☏ +90 216 450 4363. Basic place. Their Hush Moda branch has closed down.
- 2 Emirtimes Hotel, Reşit Efendi Sk 38 (200 m east of Kadıköy ferry pier), ☏ +90 216 414 5142. Comfy inexpensive hotel.
- 3 DoubleTree by Hilton, Albay Faik Sözdener Cd 31, ☏ +90 216 542 4344. Comfy hotel near Kadıköy port and Metro station. B&B double 8500 TL.
- 4 Wyndham Grand Istanbul Kalamış Marina, Fener Kalamış Cd 38, ☏ +90 216 400 0000. Mostly great reviews but the occasional bad experience. B&B double 8000 TL.
- 39 Kalamış is a mid-price place 100 m south of Wyndham Grand at Münir Nurettin Selçuk Cd 28.
- 5 Hilton Istanbul Kozyatagi, Batman Sk 4, ☏ +90 216 468 0000. Friendly inexpensive hotel by the D-100 / O-2 intersection.
- 6 Hotel Suadiye, Plaj Yolu Sk 27, ☏ +90 216 445 8424, [email protected]. Pleasant hotel near Bostancı ferry pier. B&B double 7000 TL.
- 7 Dedeman Bostancı, Değirmen Yolu Cd 39B, İçerenköy, ☏ +90 216 469 6600. Friendly efficient chain hotel and convention centre just off D-100. B&B double 4000 TL.
Learn
[edit | edit source]- 1 Marmara University main campus is on Fahrettin Kerim Gökay Cd: it has eight others across the city. It has 50,000 students and 2800 teaching staff, with courses in Turkish, English, German, French and Arabic.
Stay safe
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Beware pickpockets especially around the pier and transport hubs.
Fenerbahçe SK supporters often feel tribal, don't wear other football colours.
Connect
[edit | edit source]The district has 4G from all Turkish carriers, and Wifi is available in many public places. You might even get 5G, but as of March 2026 this has not rolled out across Turkey.
Go next
[edit | edit source]- Old City domes and minarets shimmer across the Bosphorus. Get there old-style by ferry.
- Princes' Islands are relaxing places within a short ferry ride.
- The western suburbs have little to interest the visitor. Fly away on the YHT train to historic Konya or fascinating Ankara.