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Itbayat is an island municipality of Batanes province in the northern Philippines. It is the most difficult to access among the Batanes islands, as its coastline is entirely composed of rocky cliffs that are constantly battered by the rough seas while the mainland is constantly battered by winds strong enough to swipe off hats and knock down visitors even in sunny days. As such, it sees the least number of tourists and the most unspoiled views in the province. These consist of windswept landscapes covered with grass and a few bent trees in between, with the occasional goat, cow and other livestock grazing freely.
Understand
[edit | edit source]Itbayat is the northern-most island and municipality in the Batanes archipelago and also in the Philippines. It is one of the three (out of 10) islands in the province that are inhabited, the others being Batan and Sabtang. It also has jurisdiction over six uninhabited islands, including Mavulis, also known as Y'ami, the most northerly point of the Philippines and a mere 142 kilometres (88 mi) away from Taiwan.
Itbayat island is believed to be the oldest inhabited settlement in Batanes, with archaeological evidence suggesting that humans first arrived there in 4000 BC.
It is home to about 3,000 people (census, 1 July 2024) 
Get in
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The best time to visit is during the dry season between March and June, when the winds and waves are calm. Otherwise, expect frequent cancellations at the last minute.
Itbayat is only accessible from the daily ferry on the faluwa, the traditional Ivatan fishing boat, that disembarks from the provincial capital, Basco, in Batan Island. Travel time takes 3–4 hours in fair weather and 5-6 hours at other times. Expect to share space with goods being imported from Batan and even livestock. There are six seaports around the island, with Chinapoliran port, basically a long and steep set of concrete stairs, being the primary one. Be careful when boarding and disembarking, as the waves frequently throw unsuspecting passengers overboard. Often, you may need to jump to avoid this.
The island also has its own airport, a 15-minute flight by light charter aircraft from Basco.
A mandatory environmental fee is collected from visitors at the municipal hall in downtown Itbayat.
Get around
[edit | edit source]The road network is less developed than in other islands, so expect lots of hiking. Get a guide with you at all times as the terrain and winds in town can be daunting. Motorcycles, tricycles and some trucks are the predominant form of transportation in town. There are no cars.
See
[edit | edit source]- 1 Cavaywan Lake, Raele (beside Itbayat Airport). A lake surrounded by reddish soil.
- 2 Santa Maria de Mayan Parish Church (Itbayat Church), Santa Rosa (Kaynatuan) (in front of the town plaza). Itbayat's main Roman Catholic church, built during the Spanish era in a Baroque style in 1872 but was reduced to ruins following an earthquake in 2019 and subsequent typhoons later that year and in 2025. The ruins can still be seen pending a proposed reconstruction.
- 3 Torongan Cliff, Santa Lucia (Kauhauhasan). A cliff facing the Pacific coast where the first settlers to Itbayat are believed to have landed in 4000 BC. There is an indigenous Ivatan stone tomb called Axurud dating back to the precolonial era. It also has Torongan Cave, whose mouth was blocked by a typhoon and rendered inaccessible to visitors.
- 4 Mount Karoboboan (Mount Santa Rosa), Santa Rosa (Kaynatuan). The highest point in Itbayat Island, with a height of 280 metres (920 ft). A viewdeck provides panoramic views over the island and the surrounding islets, while residents swear they can see city lights from Kaohsiung in Taiwan at night.
- 5 Mavulis Island (Y'Ami), Santa Rosa (Kaynatuan). The northern-most island in the Philippines, home to native vegetation, coconut crabs, and a garrison of the Philippine military that forms the only human population, albeit on a rotational basis.
- 6 Rapang Cliff, Santa Lucia (Kauhauhasan). A cliff facing the Pacific coast on a jagged series of finger-like promontories known as Karapangan, with a background of grass and rock. Nearby is the Stone Bell, a flat stone that creates a distinct sound resembling a ringing bell when hit and was used by the residents as an alarm clock, warning signal in case of invasion, and to call in their livestock.
- 7 Tachimus Port, Santa Lucia (Kauhauhasan). A promontory on the Pacific coast home to a much-photographed Arius tree that continues to grow despite its truck being continuously bent by Itbayat's ferocious winds.
- 8 Paganaman Port, San Rafael (Idiang). A sheltered cove facing the South China Sea. As the waves are calmer in this side of the island, it is used as a mooring area for the town's fishing fleet and is one of the few seaside areas where residents can swim, although the waves may still be to rough for outsiders. There are tidal pools and a subterranean cave known as the Blue Hole for the color of its waters.
- 9 Mount Riposed, Raele. A peak that dominates the southern half of Itbayat Island. The summit offers views reaching up to the uninhabited island of Dinem on the Pacific coast.
- 10 Mauyen Cliff, Raele. A series of 100 metres (330 ft) drops at the southern coast of Itbayat that loom over Mauyen Port.
- 11 Yawran, San Rafael (Idiang). A village composed of houses built in the indigenous Ivatan style called jinjin. Unlike the more famous stone houses in Batan Island and Sabtang, the ones in Itbayat are made of wood and thatched roofs.
Do
[edit | edit source]Buy
[edit | edit source]There is no organized market. Instead, all trades are conducted in the mom-and-pop sari-sari stores typical of the Philippines.
All transactions are in cash due to the absence of banks and ATMs. Prices tend to be higher than in Batan Island due to the costs of transporting goods by sea, and can increase further when bad weather halts the ferries.
A popular souvenir in Itbayat includes handicrafts made from the endemic nito vine.
Eat
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[edit | edit source]Sleep
[edit | edit source]There are no hotels in Itbayat, only homestays.
Stay safe
[edit | edit source]Like in the rest of Batanes, crime is abysmally low, and the residents know each other. In any case, there is no escape route other than the once-daily faluwa ferry back to Batan Island.
Stay healthy
[edit | edit source]Try not to get into a serious medical emergency, as there is the town's District Hospital is not fully equipped and you will need to be evacuated to Basco or worse, to mainland Luzon due to a lack of medicines and other resources.
Connect
[edit | edit source]The town's postal code is 3905.
Like in the rest of Batanes, electricity is on a rotational basis, with generators and solar panels being the norm. Cellphone and internet signals are often sketchy, although things are improving with the proliferation of Starlink terminals, while the reception from radio stations in Taiwan can be clearer than the domestic ones.