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DeutschJaffna District is the northernmost region of Sri Lanka, and one of the oldest inhabited places on the island. It is populated mainly by Tamil speaking people. The district encompasses Jaffna and its outlying towns, and the quirky and unique islands surrounding it. It is separated from India by the Palk Strait and the Bay of Bengal.
Understand
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The modern city of Jaffna was founded by the Portuguese in 1621, near Nallur, the capital of the Jaffna Kingdom which they defeated two years before. Today, Nallur is a suburb of Jaffna, and the home of its most famous kovil (temple), the Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil. Before the Sri Lankan Civil War (1983-2009) Jaffna was the second biggest city in Sri Lanka, but now it is only the 12th biggest, owing to the destruction, loss of life, and emigration that resulted from the conflict. The civil war also changed the demographic make-up of the city. Before the war, the population was evenly split between Tamils and Sinhalese, but the Sinhalese fled during the rise of the Tamil Tigers. They have not returned, making the city almost entirely Tamil. There is therefore a large Hindu majority, but also a sizeable Christian minority, especially on the Islands to the west of the Jaffna peninsula.
This district receives relatively few tourists, making it a hidden gem, and has a very different atmosphere to the rest of Sri Lanka. Some say the best time to visit is when the weather is cooler, from December to March. However the region is somewhat affected by the northeast Maha monsoon from October to March, with the stormiest months being October & November. Some tourists say the best time to visit is from February to September when the weather is clear, dry and hot. This is also the time of year with the most festivals - see below.
Get in
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By plane
[edit | edit source]Jaffna is connected by air to two cities in Tamil Nadu, India.
- 1 Jaffna International Airport (JAF IATA Formerly known as Palaly Airport. யாழ்ப்பாணம் சர்வதேச விமான நிலையம், பலாலி). Reopened in October 2019 after being closed due to the civil war. As of October 2026, there are daily flights between Jaffna and Chennai and thrice-weekly flights to Tiruchirappalli (both routes operated by IndiGo).
By bus
[edit | edit source]There are several private bus companies operating from Colombo to Jaffna, costing around Rs 2700 (2025). One such company is NCG express. The scheduled travel time is around 7 hours. Buses travel through the night, arriving in Jaffna around 04:00. Tickets can be booked on the Bus Seat website.
SLTB bus 88 travels between Jaffna and Trincomalee, taking 8 hours. Another option is to get to the regional transport hub of Vavuniya, from which there are frequent buses to Jaffna.
By ferry
[edit | edit source]Since 2023 the boat HSC Cheriyapani has connected 1 Kankesanthurai Harbour. [dead link] on Jaffna's northern coast (near the airport) with the town of Nagapattinam in Tamil Nadu. The ferry takes 4 hours and makes one return trip daily at a cost of INR 6500 + GST. Click the link below for details and how to book. Note that this is nearly as expensive as flying. This ferry is primarily used by locals taking large amounts of cargo or personal items between the two countries.
By train
[edit | edit source]Daily intercity trains connect Colombo with 2 Jaffna railway station. , taking approximately eight hours. As of 2025 there are two services per day, one of which is an overnight train with 2nd and 3rd class "sleeperettes" (reclining seats) only. Check for the latest updates at Seat 61.
Get around
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Once in Jaffna, there are several modes of transport. The area is rather spread out, so having your own transport is best.
By tuk-tuk
[edit | edit source]These three-wheelers are the quickest and probably the cheapest way to get around. A rule of thumb is Rs 100 per km.
By bus
[edit | edit source]Jaffna has a public bus system, however no information about it exists online in English.
By minivan
[edit | edit source]There are private hire minivans, a good option if you need transportation for the whole day.
Other
[edit | edit source]The locals get around on cycles and mopeds. Some say cycling is not safe with the number of dogs on the street. Scooters can be rented for Rs 2000 and up per day, Rs 750 and up per day for a bicycle.
See
[edit | edit source]- 1 Nallur Kandaswamy temple. 07:30-18:15 daily, closed between 12:00-15:00. Beautiful and famous Hindu temple. Come at sunset when the orange coloured temple building is at its most vibrant. Photography is not allowed inside. Free.
- 2 Thondaimanaru Selva Sannithi Temple (Selvach Sannithi Murugan Kovil).
- 3 Nagapoosani Temple (On Nainatheevu island). Hindu pilgrimage destination. One of 64 Shaktipeethas (shrines devoted to the worship of the Hindu Goddess Parvati). The only other one in Sri Lanka is Shankari Kovil in Trincomalee. Has its own boat jetty. Free.
- 4 Nagadeepa Purana Viharaya (On Nainatheevu island). Buddhist pilgrimage destination. One of 16 places in Sri Lanka that were blessed by Buddha himself. Has its own boat jetty. Free.
- 5 Sri Nagavihara International Buddhist Centre.
- 6 Palaly Raja Rajeswari Amman Kovil, Palaly East (near the airport).
- 7 Jaffna Library (யாழ் பொது நூலகம்), ☏ +94 212226028. 8:30-18:00 daily, closed Mondays & holidays. This magnificent library, built in 1933, once housed the largest collection in Asia, with over 97,000 books and rare documents. It was burnt in 1981 by Sinhalese police and paramilitaries during a pogrom against the minority Tamil population. As a precursor to the Sri Lankan Civil War, the burning of Jaffna Library remains a controversial and traumatic issue among many in Jaffna. Restored and reopened, it now houses a much smaller collection. It is airconditioned so is a great place to hide from the heat, though much of the library is off limits to visitors. [dead link]
- 8 Kankesanthurai (KKS, Port Kankesan). A beachside suburb of Jaffna reachable by train or tuk-tuk. It has the port with the ferry to India, Sri Lanka's northernmost railway station, the freshwater Keerimalai springs (reportedly with healing powers but mostly used as a swimming hole) and the 1000-year old Keerimalai Naguleswaram Kovil. The beach here is very beautiful.
- 9 Jaffna Fort. The Portuguese built this fort in the 17th century and it has been substantially modified since. Much of the fort is visible outside of the ticketed areas. At sunset, locals like to hang out here, enjoy the sunset, eat ice cream and relax. There is not a whole lot to see inside the ticketed area so nobody would blame you if you don't want to pay the price to go in when you can wander through some of the tunnels and structures of the fort on the other side of the moat and outside the ticketed area. Rs 1570.
- 10 Kachcheri Ruins (பழைய பூங்கா), Old Park. An interesting old ruin partly engulfed by trees. This British Governor's residence ("Kachcheri") from the 19th century was left in a state of ruin after the civil war, having been used by both Tamil Tiger and government forces.
- 11 Fish Market, Reclamation Rd, Guru Nagar. 06:00-10:00. A bustling market for locally-caught seafood
- 12 Jaffna Archaeological Museum. A small, easy-to-miss museum with a small collection of interesting local history. Free.
- 13 Mantri Manai (King Sangiliyan’s Minister’s House). This building is the best-preserved part of the ruins of Jaffna's ancient royal palace. No signage or development but a cool place to check out Free.
- 14 Kadurugoda Viharaya Archaeological Site. 06:00-20:00. . 2000 year old ruins of an ancient Buddhist stupa. Still standing are the original stupas made of an unusual grey coral stone.
- 15 Nainathivu (Nagadeepa). Holy island with two important temples: one Hindu and one Buddhist
Do
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There isn't a lot to do in Jaffna unless you arrive at festival times. Nallur Kovil Thiruvizha (festival) is the biggest event in the Jaffna calendar when all the faithful come home to pray.
Festivals
[edit | edit source]- Nallur Kovil Thaer Thiruvizha (Chariot Festival): is one of the biggest festivals in Jaffna at the greatest temples in Sri Lanka. This is a feast for the senses while the faithful are praying and the chariot is being pulled through the temple grounds. This is the highlight of the months-long annual Nallur festival, in July and August.
- Thai-Pongal (harvest festival): every January 14th the harvest is celebrated with fireworks and celebrations all through the day and night. All temples hold special Pongal poojas where people make pongal in front of the temple.
- Theepavali: the festival of light.
- The Tamil/Sinhala new year is celebrated on the 14th of April.
The Islands
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In the western part of Jaffna district, there are all sorts of rustic, beautiful islands which are an adventure to get to. These include the islands of Nainativu, Velanai, Karaitivu, and the most famous (and remote), Delft Island (Neduntheevu). These islands feature beaches, ruins, places of worship and low-key villages.
The island of Velanai is connected to the mainland by a long, scenic causeway. It has the fishing village of Kayts and Chaddi (Charty) Beach. Karaitivu has the excellent Casuarina Beach, however there are no other tourist attractions on that island.
Some popular daytrips from Jaffna are to the tiny, pilgrim island of Nainativu and the larger and more remote Delft Island. Both are reached by boat from the jetty at Kurikadduwan (KKD). Public bus #776 travels there hourly from behind Jaffna central bus stand (Rs 200). The ferry to Nainativu takes 15 minutes and costs Rs 200. Note that comfort and safety standards on these ferries (really just small wooden boats) are poor. Some have called this "the worst ferry ride of their lives" owing to the heat, fumes, and lack of space. Nainativu has two jetties: one at the spectacular Hindu Naga Pooshani Amman Kovil and one at the Buddhist Nagadeepa Purana Viharaya. You can board a ferry to either, visit one place of worship, walk to the other (or take a Rs 300 tuktuk), and return to KKD via the other jetty. Witnessing puja at the Hindu temple is an experience, at 12:00 daily.
Although it is further away, Delft Island is also doable as a day trip, although an overnight stay is recommended. Ferries depart from KKD at 08:00 and the last departure of the day from Delft is 15:00. Tuk-tuk drivers on the island meet the boats and offer fixed-price 4-5 hour tours of the island.
- {{Do|name=Casuarina Beach|wikidata=Q5050932|lat=9.76213|long=79.88510|content=The best beach in the province, on the island of Karaitivu. Reachable with the bus between Jaffna and Karainagar. The bus stop is 2 km from the beach. Tuk-tuks will take you from there.
Buy
[edit | edit source]Souvenirs are available from stalls at tourist sites and railway stations.
16 Jaffna Market (West of the bus stand). Open daily except Sundays. A colourful, bustling market
17 Thirunelveli Market, 69 Palali Rd, Jaffna. 05:00-14:00. Local farmers' market
Eat
[edit | edit source]Jaffna has a unique cuisine, famous for its savory treats such as Wade (වඩේ- pronounced as wah-dei) and Dhal wade which is an appetiser in Indian Cuisine. Jaffna Kool (கூழ்) is a spicy, complex seafood soup thickened with palmyra and is probably the most famous dish to come from Jaffna. It is basically impossible to find elsewhere in the country so do try it while you're here.
The Sri Lankan dessert curd and treacle is given a unique twist up north. Unlike the kithul or coconut treacle common in the rest of Sri Lanka, up north they use earthy, sweet treacle from the palmyra palm, the official tree of the province.
- 1 Akshathai/Nila (Akshathai), 60 Stanley Rd, ☏ +94 212219946. Delicious vegetarian restaurant serving good Tamil food. Left side of the restaurant is a lunch buffet, the right side ("Nila") is where tourists will be directed. The thaali (meal set) in particular is worth getting.
- 2 Rio Ice cream, ☏ +94 212 227 224. open daily from 09:00-22:00. Huge and very busy. You order your ice cream first and then hand the ticket to people at a different counter. If you don't want to wait, head to Lingan Ice Cream around the corner
- 3 Mangos, 129 Main St. 08:00-23:00 daily. Iconic Indian restaurant for dosas, uttapam, kotthu parotta, and lassis. Their thalis usually have rice, sambar, rasam, three curries, one dessert, and poppadum.
- 4 Malayan Cafe. 07:30-21:00 daily. Vegetarian lunch spot. There's only one thing for lunch: rice and curry. The waiter will plonk a banana leaf in front of you and start loading it up. Eat with your right hand like the locals. Lunch is unlimited. When you're full, throw the banana leaf away, wash your hands, and pay. Outside of lunchtime there are string hoppers, dosas, idlis and vadas to snack on. Rs 500 rice and curry.
- 5 Nallur Bhavan Vegetarian Restaurant, 250 Temple Rd. Try the chilli kotthu parotta. Cheap!
- 6 Rice & Spice, 321 Kasthuriyar Rd. 07:30-21:30 daily. Try the mutton biryani Rs 1000.
Drink
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Do not drink tap water. The local brew is toddy, from the coconut or the palmyrah tree. Toddy from the palmyrah tree is sweeter. You can buy Nelli (Indian Gooseberry) cordial which has a bittersweet flavour.
This district has a crazy proliferation of fresh juice stalls, even by Sri Lankan standards! Try 7 Juice Spot. 08:30-20:30 daily.
There is very little nightlife in Jaffna. Your options are to buy some beers and drink them either at your accommodation,or outside the beer shop with a bunch of drunk old men (not recommended).
Sleep
[edit | edit source]Budget
[edit | edit source]- 1 Tony's Garden House Backpacker's Inn, 215 Old Park Rd, Jaffna (Go to hospital road from the train station, follow it along to the end, a short distance along Kandy road and then right onto Old Park Road. It is on the right opposite the park.), ☏ +94 77 033 9879. Tony is a welcoming host with all the information you need to explore Jaffna and the surrounds. He provides a great, cheap breakfast where you can meet the other travellers who have made it to Jaffna. The location is conveniently close to the train station and not far from the main attractions of the town. A/C and fan rooms with shared bathrooms. Double 2500Rs Double + Single 3000Rs.
- 2 Tilko City Hotel, No: 70/6, K.K.S. Rd, ☏ +94 217 200 707, info@tilkohotels.com. Rooms with TV, safe, bathroom with hot and cold water. Has a bar, restaurant and gym. From USD 29 (2019).
- 3 Uthayan Guest House, 392/6, Navalar Rod (Close by Nallur Temple), ☏ +94 21 567 7608. USD25.
- 4 Nallur Residence, ☏ +94 77 244 6241. Tranquil environment with meals available and friendly hosts. Rs 3536.
- 5 Thambu Illam, 107 Brown Road, ☏ +94 76 455 0644. Upscale homestay, with a pool and beautiful garden and meals available. Rs 2978.
- 6 Wood Rest Guesthouse. A good cheap guest house 1km south of the railway station
Midrange
[edit | edit source]- 7 Fort Hammenhiel, Off the coast of Karainagar Island. Stay in a Dutch-built island fortress! The rooms are basic but you come here for the experience. From USD 100 room only to USD 180 full board.
- 8 Jetwing Jaffna (ஜெட்விங் யாழ்ப்பாணம்), 37, Mahatma Gandhi Road, ☏ +94 21 2 215571. upscale hotel with rooftop bar and nice restaurant USD 77 room only - USD 135 full board.
- 9 The Margosa Villa, ☏ +94 21 2 240242. Small boutique hotel located midway between the airport and city centre.
Stay safe
[edit | edit source]Landmines from the civil war might still exist in some places. When walking along the beaches, beware of jellyfish which usually wash up on the beach at dawn. Do not go swimming beyond the floating styrofoam markers.
Connect
[edit | edit source]Go next
[edit | edit source]If you like Jaffna, you'll like Trincomalee too.
Delft Island is a popular place to get away from everything and just chill for a while. To get there, take the 776 bus to Kurikattuwan jetty (1hr, departs when full) and then get on the next ferry to Delft (1hr, departs every few hours)