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| North Kolkata North Kolkata (or North Calcutta) is a commonly-used term, but the extent of this district is not commonly agreed upon. This article uses the term to denote the localities of Bowbazar, Burrabazar, Chandni Chowk, College Street, Jorasanko, Maniktala, Rabindra Sarani, Shyambazar and Sovabazar. |
North Kolkata (উত্তর কলকাতা Uttar Kalkātā) is the oldest area of Kolkata, a fascinating district dominated by narrow little lanes and hundreds of century-old buildings belonging to the Zamindars (Landlords), other rich Bengalis who used to trade with the British. It preserves the cultural heritage of Kolkata. The building structures give an impression of the royal folk who occupied them.
North Kolkata is generally crowded and has some interesting markets including the famous Posta, Burrabazar whole sale markets, College Street book market where one can trace many out of print books with a little patience. While in College Street a visit to the Indian Coffee House is a must. Also around the area are the Calcutta Medical College, the Presidency College and Calcutta University, all pioneers in their field in the country.
Understand
[edit | edit source]Burrabazar
[edit | edit source]Burrabazar (Bengali: বড়বাজার Baṛabājār, Hindi: बड़ा बाज़ार Baṛā Bāzār) is one of the busiest shopping districts of Kolkata. With the influx of the Marwaris (a trading class) during British rule from Western India, it was transformed into Burrabazar (big market). The saying goes that if one is willing to pay the price, everything is available in Burrabazar. The market thrives on selling larger quantities at cheaper prices.
College Street
[edit | edit source]College Street (কলেজ স্ট্রিট Kalej Sṭriṭ), also known as Boipara (বইপাড়া baipāṛā), is a 900 m (3,000 ft) long street, where you can trace many out-of-print books at throw-away prices, with a little patience. Its name comes from the presence of several higher education institutions along the thoroughfare. Opposite the "colleges", there are bookshops and stationery stores along Bankim Chatterjee Street, Ramanath Majumdar Street, and Shyama Charan Dey Street as well. The area is also home to Barnaparichay Market, College Square and Indian Coffee House.
Kumartuli
[edit | edit source]Kumartuli (কুমারটুলি Kumārṭuli) or Kumortuli (কুমোরটুলি Kumorṭuli) is a traditional quarter for the potters (kumār or kumor). Renowned for its sculpting prowess, the area not only manufactures clay idols for various festivals (especially for Durga Puja) but also regularly exports them.
Sovabazar
[edit | edit source]Sovabazar or Shobhabazar (শোভাবাজার Śobhābājār, colloquially শ'বাজার Śa'bājār) is an old neighbourhood in North Kolkata, based around the Rajbari. Despite facing economic stagnation nowadays, Sovabazar was once a part of the citadel of the Bengali aristocracy. The area is named after Sovaram Basak, one of the richest inhabitants of 18th-century Calcutta, whose ancestors came to the city from Saptagram.
Get in
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Map of North Kolkata
By metro
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The Blue Line 1 runs along the city from north to south, and is the fastest and the most convenient way to reach North Kolkata. However, you may have to change to other modes of transport to reach one's destination. Trains run every 10-15 minutes and at ₹5-₹15. It runs from 7:02AM to 9:49PM from Monday to Saturday and 10:02AM to 9:49PM on Sunday.
The metro stations in North Kolkata include: 1 Shyambazar 1 , 2 Sovabazar Sutanuti 1 , 3 Girish Park 1 , 4 Mahatma Gandhi Road 1 and 5 Central 1 .
By bus
[edit | edit source]The longer roads in Kolkata have a north-south alignment and there is plenty of road transport available from North Kolkata to other parts of Kolkata. However, road transport slows down during office hour rush.
By train
[edit | edit source]The Circular Railway Circular covers the western and northern edges of Kolkata. The stations in North Kolkata are: 6 Bagbazar Circular , 7 Sovabazar Ahiritola Circular and 8 Barra Bazar Circular .
By ferry
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See
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- 1 Howrah Bridge (হাওড়া ব্রিজ Hāoṛā Brij). 24 hours daily. Officially Rabindra Setu (রবীন্দ্র সেতু Rabīndra Setu), the 705 m (2,313 ft) long Howrah Bridge is one of the iconic bridges of West Bengal. It is a cantilever bridge with a suspended span over the Hooghly River, and was built without any nut or bolts. The bridge was commissioned in 1943 by Braithwaite, Burn & Jessop Construction Company, replacing the older pontoon bridge. It took over six years to build, and the entire project cost ₹25 million. Free.
- 2 Sovabazar Rajbari (শোভাবাজার রাজবাড়ি Śobhābājār Rājbāṛi), 33 & 36 Raja Nabakrishna Deb St. The Rajbari, now partly in shambles, was probably built around or before 1757 by Raja Naba Krishna Deb. The Durga Puja was started in 1757, after the British victory in the Battle of Plassey.
- 3 Bauddha Dharmankur Sabha, 1 Buddhist Temple St, ☏ +91 33 2211 7138. A Buddhist monastery established in 1892 and run by the Bengal Buddhist Association. The distinct red building mostly consists of a school and a guest house. There is a very small Buddhist shrine tucked away on the 1st floor.
- 4 Kumartuli Ghat. Watch the scene of the idols being transported from this series of steps leading to the Hooghly River.
- 5 Maha Bodhi Society of India, 4A, Bankim Chatterjee St, ☏ +91 33 2219 9294. A small, but interesting Theravada Buddhist temple located in an historic building. There is a library and shrine room on the second floor. Meditation classes are held every 1st and 3rd Sunday of the month.
- 6 Shyambazar Crossing. The famous five-point crossing connects APC Road, Barrackpore Trunk Road, Bidhan Sarani, Chittaranjan Avenue and Jessore Road. A statue of Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose is at the centre of the crossing.
- 7 Sri Gaudiya Math.
Nimtala
[edit | edit source]- 8 Nimtala Ghat (নিমতলা ঘাট Nimtalā Ghāṭ), 2, Strand Bank Rd. One of the largest crematoria in India, and one of the holiest for Hindus, similar to the Manikarnika Ghat in Varanasi. It is believed that the soul attains mokṣa (মোক্ষ) in this crematorium, which breaks the cycle of birth and death. So, people across the country come here for the cremation of their loved ones.
- 9 Bhootnath Mandir, 2, Strand Bank Rd. A Shiva temple where daily rituals are performed with cremation ashes.
- 10 Kabiguru Rabindranath Tagore's Memorial, 2, Strand Bank Rd. Despite intended to be a sober memorial of the Bengali poet, it gives an exquisite view of the Hooghly River, with the Howrah Bridge at the backdrop.
Cemeteries
[edit | edit source]- 11 Maniktala Christian Cemetery (Church Mission Society Cemetery). Contains graves of Bengali poet Toru Dutt and his family.
- 12 Nabodebalaya (নবদেবালয় Nabadebālaẏ). Literally a "new abode of god", it consists of a prayer building and a cemetery of the Brahmo sect of Hinduism. Although dead bodies are usually cremated in mainstream Hindu traditions, they are buried in Brahmoism.
Heritage
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- 13 Basu Bati (বসু বাটী Basu Bāṭī). The house of artist Nandalal Bose in Kolkata, famous for the untimely Raksha Bandhan celebration on 16 October 1905, arranged by Rabidranath Tagore to protest Lord Curzon's decision to divide Bengal into two.
- 14 Ghariwala Mullick Bari (ঘড়িওয়ালা মল্লিক বাড়ি Ghaṛioẏālā Mallik Bāṛi), 279, Rabindra Sarani. A large palace with an imposing clock (ঘড়ি ghaṛi). The ground floor hosts various shops, and the Mullick family once hosted a pharmacy there.
- 15 House of Gokul Mitra (গোকুল মিত্র ঠাকুরবাড়ি), 520, Rabindra Sarani. The house belonging to Gokul Mitra with a temple of Madan Mohan inside. One legend accounts that the King of Bishnupur gave an idol of Madan Mohan to Gokul Mitra when he was in difficult times.
- 16 House of Sarada Devi, 7C, Udbodhan ln.
- 17 House of Satyendra Nath Bose, 22, Iswar Mill Ln. The residence of the scientist world-renowned for Bose-Einstein statistics.
- 18 Jorasanko Rajbati (জোড়াসাঁকো রাজবাটী Joṛāsānko Rājbāṭī), 288, Rabindra Sarani.
- 19 Mayer Ghat (মায়ের ঘাট Māẏer Ghāṭ, literally "Mother's Ghat"). An old bathing ghat where Sarada Devi, the wife of Sri Ramakrishna, used to bathe.
- 20 Residence of Sister Nivedita.
- 21 Tagore Castle, 26, Prasanna Kumar Tagore St. The original residence of the Tagore family, now in shambles. It is called "castle" mainly for its resemblance to a European castle compared to a traditional Indian building. Its auditorium once hosted Baṅga Nāṭyālaẏ (বঙ্গ নাট্যালয়) from 1859 to 1872, started by theatre enthusiasts Jatindra Mohan Tagore and his brother Shourendra Mohan Tagore.
- 22 Thanthania Lahabari, 233, Bidhan Sarani. One of the houses of the Law (or Laha) family on Bidhan Sarani. It has been owned by Shyama Charan Law and his descendants, and it hosts Durga Puja every year.
- 23 Thanthania Rajbati (ঠনঠনিয়া রাজবাটী Ṭhanṭhaniẏā Rājbāṭī), 2A, Bidhan Sarani. One of the houses of the Law (or Laha) family on Bidhan Sarani. The Rajbati was originally owned as the joint property as 2, Cornwallis St. Later, Durga Charan Law divided it into 2A and 2B, with 2A being given to honorary magistrate Raja Kristo Dass Law, whose descendants stay here, housing the Pasteur Laboratories. The 2B now houses the National Insurance Company Limited, with no signs of the past Law family heritage.
Memorials
[edit | edit source]- 24 Mohun Bagan Memorial (Mohun Bagan Villa), Mohun Bagan Ln. A memorial housed in the palace that gave birth to one of Kolkata's premier football clubs. The name "Mohun Bagan" comes from that garden that belonged to Gopi Mohun Deb of the Sovabazar Raj family, which was replaced by the present building built by jute merchant Kirti Chandra Mitra. In front of the building, there's a group sculpture named "Amar Ekadash" (literally the "immortal eleven"), depicting the eleven team members of the Mohun Bagan Athletic Club that won the IFA Shield in 1911, which was a historic win against East Yorks, symbolising Indian nationalism back then.
- 25 Sri Aurobindo Plaque, 102, Sri Aurobindo Sarani (formerly 48, Grey St). A plaque in front of the building where Sri Aurobindo was arrested due to the Alipore Bomb Case against him and others, now occupied by the Hatibagan branch of the State Bank of India (SBI).
Museums
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- 26 Jorasanko Thakur Bari (জোড়াসাঁকো ঠাকুরবাড়ি, House of the Tagores, Rabindra Bharati Museum), 6/4, Dwarkanath Tagore Ln, Jorasanko, ☏ +91 33 22181744, [email protected]. 10:30AM–5PM (closed M). The ancestral home of the Tagore family. The huge sprawling brick mansions were the cultural hub of Kolkata for close to a century and a major force in the women's liberation movement. It hosted the first Brahmo wedding and was an important centre of Indian independence movement. The house was converted into a museum in 1961. The museum has three large galleries—one of the life and works of Rabindranath Tagore, a second gallery about his close relatives such as father Debendranath Tagore, Abanindranath Tagore, Gaganendranath Tagore etc. and a third gallery on the Bengali Renaissance in general. ₹50; students ₹25.
- 27 Marble Palace, 46, Muktaram Babu St, Jorasanko (metro: Mahatma Gandhi Road 1 ). 10AM-4PM (closed M and Th). 📷 Photography prohibited. Built in 1835 by zamindar and art connoisseur Raja Rajendra Mullick, the palace is now a private museum. Spend your afternoon among precious objects d'art, including works of Rubens and Sir Joshua Reynolds. A real garden, of maybe an acre with a Palladian Mansion, set square in the centre. Today this palace has an incongruous collection of statues and paintings. There is also a private zoo housing a collection of birds from different corners of the world. Free.
- 28 Acharya Bhaban (আচার্য ভবন Ācārẏa Bhaban), Bose Institute, 93/1, APC Rd, Machuabazar (next to Rajabazar Science College), ☏ +91 33 2360 0078, [email protected]. W-Th 2PM-4PM, closed other days. A museum with a collection of some of the instruments designed, made and used by Jagadish Chandra Bose, along with his personal belongings and memorabilia. Free.
- 29 Asutosh Museum of Indian Art, 1F & 2F, Centenary Bldg, University of Calcutta, College St. India's first university museum. The museum has specimens of various phases of Indian art, with special emphasis on the art of Bengal. The collection includes sculptures made of stone, metal, wood or terracotta, and different illustrated books of ancient and medieval India.
- 30 Kolkata Police Museum, 113, APC Rd, ☏ +91 33 23607704 (director). 10AM-5PM (closed M). The museum collects, preserves and interprets objects related to the history of the Kolkata Police. Exhibits includes various items seized during the freedom struggle of the country.
- 31 Raja Rammohan Roy Memorial Museum, 85A, Amherst St, ☏ +91 33 2360 5122, [email protected]. 1AM-4PM (closed M). The memorabilia in the museum consists of photographs, sketches, paintings and excerpts from the writings of Ram Mohan Roy and others reproduced, wherever possible, in facsimile. Also, period furniture and diorama representations were designed to recreate the times. Together they not only give you glimpses of the various facets of one of the greatest personalities of the modern age, but at the same time takes you back into a period in history when India was at crossroads, and Ram Mohan Roy heralded the coming of the modern age. Indian children (up to 11 years) ₹5, Indian adults ₹10, foreigners ₹50.
- 32 Swami Vivekananda's Ancestral House, 3, Gour Mohan Mukherjee St, Simla, [email protected]. The 18th-century building was in a dilapidated condition, worsening day by day. The Ramakrishna Mission acquired it, along with an adjacent plot, in May 1999. Ramakrishna Mission restored Vivekananda's ancestral house without changing any of its original architectural features. It houses Vivekananda's birthplace, meditation hall (first floor) and museum, where some of the articles used by Vivekananda, his father, mother and brothers are preserved.
- 33 Vidyasagar Smriti Mandir (বিদ্যাসাগর স্মৃতি মন্দির), 36 & 36/1 Vidyasagar St (approach from APC Rd or from Amherst St), ☏ +91 33 22413018. The erstwhile residential house of Pandit Ishwar Chandra Vidyasagar, social reformer, language pioneer and a key figure in bringing about the renaissance in Bengal, has been converted into a women's college which runs various professional and language courses. The heritage building was renamed 'Vidyasagar Smriti Mandir'. A part of the building has been converted into a museum.
Places of worship
[edit | edit source]- 34 Magen David Synagogue, 109, Canning St. The largest synagogue in Eastern India, with Victorian architectural style. It was built in 1884 by Elias David Ezra in memory of his father David Joseph Ezra, who made his fortune in the real estate trade of Kolkata.
- 35 Nakhoda Mosque (নাখোদা মসজিদ Nākhodā Masjid). The largest mosque in Kolkata. It was built by Abdur Rahim Osman in 1926, who came from Kutch in Gujarat. It is one of the few religious buildings built in Indo-Saracenic architecture. An exhibition of exquisite ornaments is held regularly inside the mosque.
Churches
[edit | edit source]- 36 Armenian Church of the Holy Nazareth, 2, Armenian St. 18th-century Armenian Apostolic church. The current building dates back to 1724.
- 37 Carsey Baptist Church, BB Ganguly St, ☏ +91 33 2236 7254.
- 38 Holy Rosary Cathedral (Portuguese Church). Built in 1799, it's the only remaining major building of Kolkata’s lesser-known Portuguese colonial history.
- 39 St. Francis Xavier's Church (Bowbazar Church).
Temples
[edit | edit source]- 40 Anjuman Atash Adaran Temple, 91, Metcalfe St. The only Parsi temple in Kolkata. Like other such temples in India, entry is limited to Parsis.
- 41 Calcutta Jain Temple, Gouribari.
- 42 Firinghi Kalibari (ফিরিঙ্গি কালীবাড়ি Phiriṅgi Kālībāṛi), 244, BB Ganguly St. An old Kali temple, said to be 500 years old. The temple is called "Firinghi Kalibari" because Portuguese-born folk singer Anthony Firingee used to visit the temple. Here, Goddess Kali is worshipped as "Shri Shri Siddheshwari Kalimata Thakurani".
- 43 Lal Mandir, Jatindra Mohan Ave. A red-coloured temple at the middle of a wide thoroughfare, built by a zamindar of Sovabazar.
- 44 Thanthania Kalibari (ঠনঠনিয়া কালীবাড়ি Ṭhanṭhaniẏā Kālībāṛi), Bidhan Sarani (tram: Kali Mandir (5)
). 6-11AM and 3-8PM. One of the oldest Kali temples in Kolkata, where hundreds of devotees gather at the temple for worship on the occasions of Kali Puja, Kaushiki Amavasya and Phalaharini Amavasya. Animal sacrifice is still observed during new moon nights and Kali Puja, as per the tantric traditions followed there.
Do
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- 1 Binodini Theatre (বিনোদিনী থিয়েটার Binodinī Thiẏeṭār, formerly the Star Theatre), 79/3/4, Bidhan Sarani (near Hatibagan crossing). One of the earliest institutions of commercial Bengali theatre, along with the Minerva Theatre. It was also one of the places where the first motion pictures in Bengal, made by Hira Lal Sen, were screened. The Star Theatre was later named after Binodini Dasi, fondly called Naṭī Binodinī (নটী বিনোদিনী), due to her close professional connection with the theatre.
- 2 College Square (গোলদীঘি Goldīghi), College St. One of the oldest swimming pools of Kolkata, College Square is known for its considerable contribution towards history of the city's aquatic culture. It also houses the tomb of David Hare, and a monument for the members of the 49th Bengalee Regiment who died in World War I. Durga Puja is celebrated each year at College Square, and it witnesses heavy footfall during that time.
- 3 Minerva Theatre.
Fanush
[edit | edit source]- 4 Bholanath Dham (ভোলানাথ ধাম Bholānāth Dhām), 33, Abhedananda Rd. A mansion with a large courtyard, known for the "fanush" (ফানুস phānus) festival celebrated in the afternoon of Diwali, where paper-made sky lanterns called phānus are flown. These sky lanterns work like hot-air balloons, where the air inside is heated with a cloth rag ball (লুটি luṭi) soaked in spirit, which is attached to the base of the lantern. The venue of the phānus festival was purchased in 1925 by Raghunath Dutt and is named after his father, Bholanath Dutt. The first phānus festival was also observed there in 1925, and various theme-based sky lanterns are now flown from the mansion.
Durga Puja venues
[edit | edit source]- 5 Baghbazar Sarbojanin Durgotsav, 78, Bagbazar St, ☏ +91 98300 69769.
- 6 Jagat Mukherjee Park, 1, Jatindra Mohan Ave.
- 7 Kumartuli Park, 8B, Abhay Mitra St.
- 8 Manicktala Chaltabagan Lohapatty Durga Puja (intersection of Amherst St and Vivekananda Rd). One of the largest Durga Puja celebrations in the city, which began in 1943 by Lakhi Chand Jaiswal as a small celebration in a shop. It has been attended by celebrities, industrialists, politicians, and even foreign diplomats. The common theme is usually environmentalism, and a windmill and solar panels power the pandal.
- 9 Muhammad Ali Park, Chittaranjan Ave.
- 10 Sarada Banerjee Park, 127F, Muktaram Babu St, Chorbagan.
- Sovabazar Sarbojanin.
- 11 Sudhir Mukherjee Udyan, Kashi Bose Ln.
Event venues
[edit | edit source]- 12 Girish Mancha.
- 13 Mahajati Sadan (মহাজাতি সদন Mahājāti Sadan, House of the Nation), 166, Chittaranjan Ave. Auditorium and cultural centre planned as part of the independence movement by Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose. The foundation stone was laid in 1939 by Rabindranath Tagore, who named it Mahajati Sadan. It was completed by Dr. Bidhan Chandra Roy in the early 1950s.
Parks
[edit | edit source]- 14 Deshbandhu Park, 165B, Raja Dinendra St.
- 15 Hedua Park (হেদুয়া পার্ক Heduẏā Pārk, officially Azad Hind Bag, formerly Cornwallis Square), Bidhan Sarani. A park based around a swimming pool, which was originally one of the nine water tanks built by the Lottery Committee between 1817 and 1836. The name "Hedua" is generally said to have come from the word hrad (হ্রদ), meaning "lake".
Learn
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Many well-known higher education institutions in Kolkata are on College Street.
- 1 Bose Institute (বসু বিজ্ঞান মন্দির Basu Bijñān Mandir), 93/1, APC Rd, Machuabazar (next to Rajabazar Science College), ☏ +91 33 2355-9219. A scientific research institute founded by Jagadish Chandra Bose in 1917 in what was his residence. It is now the main campus with branches.
- 2 Medical College & Hospital (মেডিকেল কলেজ ও হাসপাতাল), College St (tram: Calcutta Medical College ). Established in 1835, it is the first medical college in Asia.
- 3 Presidency University (PU; প্রেসিডেন্সি বিশ্ববিদ্যালয়), College St (tram: Presidency College ). Established as Hindu College in 1817, renamed Presidency College in 1855, and upgraded to a university in 2010.
- 4 The Sanskrit College and University, Bankim Chatterjee St (off College St). A liberal arts university offering both undergraduate and postgraduate courses in Ancient India, world history, Bengali, English, Sanskrit, linguistics and traditional orientation learning (Advaita Vedanta).
- 5 University of Calcutta (CU; কলকাতা বিশ্ববিদ্যালয়), College St (tram: Calcutta University ). Main campus of India's first western-style university established on 24 January 1857.
Buy
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- 1 Barnaparichay Market (বর্ণপরিচয় মার্কেট Barṇaparicaẏ Mārkeṭ), College St (at MG Rd crossing; tram: College Street ). A marketplace that does not appear to have received a lick of paint. It mostly hosts sari (traditional women's dress) shops but the first floor also contains numerous bookshops. There are sari shops opposite the market as well.
- 2 Hatibagan Market (হাতিবাগান Hātibāgān), 122, Sri Aurobindo Sarani. Spread along Bidhan Sarani.
- 3 Maniktala Market (মানিকতলা Māniktalā), 187, Vivekananda Rd. A big private market for varieties of fish, owned by SC Nan and family. It's also popular for groceries and fresh vegetables, and is considered to be one of the best farmers' markets in the city.
- Orchid Point, 3/1A Upendra Chandra Banerjee Road,Kankurgachhi. It houses most major brands.
- 4 Sealdah Market, Spread all over Sealdah. One of the largest markets in Kolkata.
- 5 Tiretta Bazaar (টিরিটি বাজার Ṭiriṭi Bājār). Named after Edoardo Tiretta, a late 18th-century Italian immigrant from Venice but often refereed to as Old China Market due to its historic association with Chinese Indian nationals. While the population has dropped significantly the bazaar is still the place to buy Chinese goods in central Kolkata and to eat Chinese food.
Flowers
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- 6 Mullick Ghat (মল্লিক ঘাট Mallik Ghāṭ), Strand Rd. The ghat at the base of the Howrah Bridge is home to Kolkata's bustling wholesale flower market, one of the largest and oldest in India. Flowers are an essential part of life in the city; they are bought not just for temple prayers but also for wedding decorations, events, and festivals. The ghat was developed in 1855 by Ram Mohan Mullick in memory of his father, and was bustling spot for colonial-era trade, commerce and community use.
- 7 Jagannath Ghat (জগন্নাথ ঘাট Jagannāth Ghāṭ). An extension of the Mullick Ghat flower market.
Eat
[edit | edit source]- 1 Baithak Khana Cafe, 11E, Guru Prasad Chowdhury Ln (off Bidhan Sarani, near Vidyasagar College). M-Sa noon-9PM, closed Su. A family-owned heritage café, with its walls depicting Kolkata's history. It was once a meeting spot for the members of the Young Bengal Movement led by Derozio, and was originally owned by Rev. Krishna Mohan Banerjee, himself a member of the movement. ₹100.
- 2 Putiram (পুঁটীরাম Punṭīrām), 46, Surya Sen St. Known for kachori (কচুরি kacuri), samosa (শিঙাড়া śiṅāṛā), juicy "gurer rosogolla" (sold in winters) and "guli goja" (sold on Vijayadashami).
Shyambazar
[edit | edit source]- 3 Arsalan Restaurant & Caterer, 138, Bidhan Sarani, ☏ +91 91634 00111. M-Th 11AM-12:30AM; F-Su 11:00AM-1:30AM. Biryani and Mughlai food. Popular items: firni, mutton kosha, mutton boti kebab, chicken chatpata, mutton biryani, egg chicken roll. ₹200-600.
- 4 Bhojohori Manna, Binodini Theatre, 79/3/4 Bidhan Sarani, ☏ +91 33 2533 8519. It serves a wide variety of home cooked Bengali cuisine.
- 5 Bhooter Raja Dilo Bor (ভূতের রাজা দিল বর Bhūter Rājā Dila Bar), 6, Rajabagan St, Hatibagan. Tu-Sa 11:00AM-10:30PM, Su 11AM-midnight, M midnight-10:30AM & 11:00AM-10:30PM. A Ray-themed restaurant with 10 outlets in Kolkata, literally meaning "the king of ghosts has given a boon". It is famous for its hilsa (iliś) dishes. ₹140-1,300.
- 6 Golbari (New Punjabi Hotel), 211, APC Rd (Shyambazar 5 point crossing), ☏ +91 33 2554 6096. 12:30PM-11PM. Famous for "kosha mangsho" (কষা মাংস kaṣā māṁsa), spicy goat meat.
- 7 Mitra Cafe, 3A, Bhupen Bose Ave, ☏ +91 33 2543 8192. 4:30-10PM. North Indian fast food outlet famous for its brain chop. Fish Kaviraji, brain chop, Chicken Kaviraji, Mutton Kaviraji, mutton cutlets, fries, Prawn Kaviraji. Also go for the various chops, cutlets or Afghani.
- 8 New Madras Tiffin, 138, Bidhan Sarani, ☏ +91 98042 37342. 10AM-10PM. Good vegetarian South Indian joint within a non-veg restaurant. Must-try items are Mysore plain dosa, Dahi vada and Kulfi.
- 9 Only 4 Chinese Gazab (Gazab), 34C, Shyampukur St, Hatibagan, ☏ +91 33 30859011. Noon-10:30PM. Quality Indian Chinese and great pork items. Also, try their Darsaan with vanilla ice cream.
- 10 Rupa, 222A, APC Rd, Shyambazar (at five-point crossing). Quality Bengali lunch. Famous for śukto bhāt (শুক্তো ভাত, Bengali bitter gourd dish and rice) and "kosha mangsho" (কষা মাংস, kaṣā māṁsa) (spicy goat meat).
Sweets
[edit | edit source]- 11 Adi Haridas Modak (আদি হররিদাস মোদক Ādi Haridās Modak), 220, APC Rd (right at the five-point crossing, hard to find the shop behind the billboards). The 200-year-old sweet shop is known for "chhanar toast", which looks like a slice of bread with "malai" spread on it. It also serves "luchi" with "aloo torkari" on banana leaves every morning. Chhanar toast: ₹15 per piece.
- 12 Amrit (অমৃত Amr̥ta), 94, Bidhan Sarani. Established in 1912, known for its sweet yoghurt called "mishti doi" (মিষ্টি দই miṣṭi dai). Mishti doi: ₹300 per kg.
- 13 Chittaranjan Mistanna Bhandar, 34B Shyambazar St (opposite Shyambazar AV School). A century-old sweet shop famous for Bengali sweets like "rosogolla", "rajbhog", "chomchom" etc. Must-try items are "rosogolla" and "modhuporko". Rosogolla: ₹20 per piece, modhuporko: ₹35 per cup.
- 14 Dwarik's Grandsons, BT Rd. Serves sweets like "steam sandesh", "kheer chop" and "dorbesh". Steam sandesh: ₹17 per piece, kheer chop: ₹17 per piece, dorbesh: ₹10 per piece.
Sovabazar
[edit | edit source]- 15 Allen Kitchen, 40/1, Jatindra Mohan Ave. 4-9PM. Famous for its prawn cutlet. One of the oldest restaurants in Kolkata, founded in the late 19th century.
- 16 Baundule Calcutta (বাউণ্ডুলে Bāuṇḍule). 4-10PM. A small shop near Kumartuli Ghat run by local youngsters selling hot drinks and snacks, including crispy fried chicken, momos, burgers, sandwiches and pastas.
- 17 Mitra Cafe, 47, Jatindra Mohan Ave, ☏ +91 8420161111, +91 9830342665. 5-10PM. North Indian fast food outlet famous for its brain chop. Fish Kaviraji, brain chop, Chicken Kaviraji, Mutton Kaviraji, mutton cutlets, fries, Prawn Kaviraji. Also go for the various chops, cutlets or Afghani.
- 18 Niranjan Agar (beside the NW exit of Girish Park 1 ). 4-9PM. Famous fry shop. Try their deviled duck eggs, mutton koftas and special fish fry.
- 19 Nobin Chandra Das (নবীন চন্দ্র দাশ Nabīn Candra Dāś), 77, Jatindra Mohan Ave. The legendary shop that is said to have invented "rosogolla". Rosogolla: ₹12-32 per piece.
Hedua
[edit | edit source]- 20 Girish Chandra Dey and Nukur Chandra Nandy, 56, Ramdulal Sarkar Street, ☏ +91 33 2241 0048. Established in 1844. Famous for Sandesh and traditional sweets
Bowbazar
[edit | edit source]- 21 Bhim Chandra Nag (ভীম চন্দ্র নাগ Bhīm Candra Nāg), 5, Nirmal Chandra St, ☏ +91 33 2212 0465, +91 33 2269 7908. The 200-year-old shop is famous for sandesh. It is the inventor of leḍikeni (লেডিকেনি), named after the wife of Lord Canning, the then-Viceroy of India.
- 22 Naba Krishna Guin (নব কৃষ্ণ গুঁই Naba Kr̥ṣṇa Guni), 9B, Nirmal Chandra St. The 200-year-old traditional sweet shop is famous for its fried sweets (ভাজা মিষ্টি bhājā miṣṭi).
College Street
[edit | edit source]- 23 Indian Coffee House, 1F, 15 Bankim Chatterjee St (off College St), ☏ +91 33 2241 4869. A venerable old establishment run by the Indian Coffee Workers Co-op Society. The high ceilings, peeling paintwork, skylights and workers in traditional uniforms create an image straight out of the 1920s or 1930s movie. In addition, the coffee (and the food) is good and cheap.
Tiretta Bazar
[edit | edit source]- 24 Chinese Breakfast, Sun Yat Sen St (behind Poddar Court). Early before 8:30AM when things start wrapping up. A delicious Kolkata experience, where Chinese fish dumping comes steamed, fried or in soup. ₹30.
Drink
[edit | edit source]- 1 Indian Coffee House, 1F, 15 Bankim Chatterjee St (just off College St), ☏ +91 33 2241 4869. A venerable old establishment run by the Indian Coffee Workers Co-op Society. The high ceilings, peeling paintwork, skylights and workers in traditional uniform create an image straight out of a 20 or 30s movie. In addition, the coffee (and the food) is good and cheap.
- 2 Paramount Juices & Shakes, 1D, Bankim Chatterjee Street, College Square, ☏ +91 33 22192433.
Sleep
[edit | edit source]| This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room: | |
| Budget | Under ₹2,000 |
| Mid-range | ₹2,000–5,000 |
| Splurge | Over ₹5,000 |
Budget
[edit | edit source]- 1 Aappayan Guest House, 71, Jatindra Mohan Ave, ☏ +91 98368 94023.
- 2 Anand Bhavan, 95 Chittaranjan Ave (Opposite Calcutta Medical College), ☏ +91 33 22374014.
- 3 AV Hotels Pvt Ltd, 1 Shambhu Mullick Lane, Burrabazar, ☏ +91 33 22687741, +91 33 2268-7746, +91 33 2268-7748, +91 33 2268-7749. North Indian vegetarian cuisine.
- 4 Hotel Avenue Club, 95A Chittaranjan Ave (Opposite Calcutta Medical College), ☏ +91 33 2236-4988, +91 33 22257337.
- 5 Hotel De Bengal, 17 Mahatma Gandhi Rd, ☏ +91 33 2360-3512.
- 6 Lovely Guest House, 17 Manindra Mitra St (Opposite Surendranath College, just off Mahatma Gandhi Road).
- Maha Bodhi Society Guesthouse, 4A, Bankim Chatterjee St, ☏ +91 33 2219 9294. Simple guesthouse with a lot of features. ₹250 room with a private bathroom, ₹150 for a room with a communal bathroom; ₹60 dormitory.
- 7 Padma Hotel, 131 Acharya Jagadish Chandra Bose Rd (Near Sealdah fly-over), ☏ +91 33 2227-0552.
- 8 Palace Hotel, 31/2 Mahatma Gandhi Rd, ☏ +91 33 2350-0634.
- 9 Santiniketan Hotel, 16B, Mahatma Gandhi Rd, ☏ +91 33 23501661.
- 10 Hotel Cozy, 19, Mahatma Gandhi Road, ☏ +91 33 2350 6513.
- 11 Imperial Lodge, 28, Mahatma Gandhi Road, ☏ +91 33 6952 6856.
Mid-range
[edit | edit source]- 12 Ashoka Hotel, 133, Acharya Jagadish Chandra Bose Rd (opposite Sealdah Court, across the fly-over), ☏ +91 33 66039939.
- 13 Raja Guest House Pvt. Ltd., 8/2 Bhawani Dutta Ln (near Presidency College), ☏ +91 33 2241-3827.
Splurge
[edit | edit source]- 14 Calcutta Bungalow, 5, Radha Kanta Jew St, Shyambazar. Check-in: 2PM, check-out: noon. A hotel built in the neoclassical style. It has 6 rooms with exposed beam ceilings and chandeliers (ঝাড়বাতি jhāṛbāti). Services include free Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs, minifridges and safes. Breakfasts are served in a dining room. It conducts a monthly āḍḍā (আড্ডা) session with telebhājā (তেলেভাজা) and tea. ₹5,200–7,600.
Stay safe
[edit | edit source]Women should avoid visiting the area around the red-light district of Sonagachi (সোনাগাছি Sonāgāchi) unless really necessary.
Connect
[edit | edit source]Libraries
[edit | edit source]- 6 Bangiya Sahitya Parishat (বঙ্গীয় সাহিত্য পরিষদ Baṅgīẏa Sāhitya Pariṣad, literally "Bengali Literature Council"), 243/1, APC Rd, [email protected]. 12:30PM-7PM. A library with ancient Bengali manuscripts.
- 7 Bankim Chandra Library, 5, Pratap Chatterjee Ln. Former residence of Bankim Chandra Chattopadhyay in Kolkata, now a library dedicated to him.
- 8 Rammohun Library and Free Reading Room, 267, APC Rd. 12:30PM-7PM. A library established in 1904 in honour of Ram Mohan Roy. It contains hundreds and thousands of books, along with manuscripts, journals and periodicals. The free reading room has a children’s literature section and an archive section as well.
Post offices
[edit | edit source]- 9 Barabazar Head Post Office, 18, Bal Mukunda Mackker Rd, ☏ +91 33 2269 3221.
Go next
[edit | edit source]Police stations
[edit | edit source]- 10 Bowbazar Police Station, 13 Kapiltolla, ☏ +91 33 2211 4813, +91 62922 58006, [email protected].
- 11 Burrabazar Police Station, 8, Mullick St, ☏ +91 33 2268 7554, +91 62922 58001, [email protected].
- 12 Jorabagan Police Station, 74, Nimtala Ghat St, ☏ +91 33 2218 4094, +91 62922 58202, [email protected].
- 13 Jorasanko Police Station, ☏ +91 33 2269 7279, +91 62922 58003, [email protected].
- 14 Manicktala Police Station, 20, Canal W Rd, ☏ +91 33 2360 5681, +91 62922 58301, [email protected].
- 15 Narkeldanga Police Station, 6/1 Dr M.N. Chatterjee Sarani, ☏ +91 33 2360 5710, +91 62922 58305, [email protected].
- 16 North Port Police Station, 67/3, Strand Bank Rd, ☏ +91 33 2243 1100, +91 62922 58506, [email protected].
- 17 Shyampukur Police Station, 47, Shyambazar St, ☏ +91 33 2555 7585, +91 62922 58201, [email protected].