Los Tuxtlas Biosphere Reserve

Los Tuxtlas Biosphere Reserve is a protected natural area along the Gulf of Mexico coast in Veracruz, Mexico. The reserve protects areas of coastal mangrove swamp but is best known for its tropical forest ecosystem on the slopes of seven volcanoes within the park. The mountainous area includes highland lakes that are a winter haven for migratory ducks and geese.

Understand

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It is a large reserve covering an area of more than 155,000 hectares.

History

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The reserve was established by presidential decree in 1998. It was declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 2006 and is administered for the federal government by the National Commission of Natural Protected Areas (CONANP),

The reserve was established following a wake-up call sounded by environmental researchers at UNAM (Mexico's largest university), who became alarmed at the destruction of the rain forests for logging and cattle ranching. Several of the volcanic peaks had been completely deforested since the 1960s. Illegal foresting remains a problem, but growing awareness of the value of ecotourism is helping to turn local opinion against irresponsible natural exploitation.

The Olmec past

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Olmec sculpture found on the San Martin Pajapan volcano

The Olmec indigenous culture is known for their enormous sculptures of rounded heads created from 1500 BC to 900 AD. Archaeologists have determined that the Olmecs operated quarries in the areas of today's biosphere reserve. They cut massive blocks of basalt from the base of the Cerro El Vigía volcano, then loaded the stone onto rafts where they could be floated down the Papaloapan river to Tres Zapotes where where they would be carved.

Travelers today can visit Tres Zapotes where some of the oldest Olmec heads are displayed (including the first ever discovered). A site museum explains the story of Olmec civilization and its role as the "mother civilization" of Mesoamerica.

Landscape

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The park is large with various different landscapes, including sandy beaches or steep rocky cliffs on the shores of the Gulf of Mexico. Most of the park is jungle covered volcanic peaks with steep hillsides. Numerous mountains streams and rivers flow through the park with several waterfalls from as low as a few meters in height to dramatic falls that plunge over 50 meters. Lake Catemaco is a large freshwater lake with dense jungles along most of its shorelines but increasingly cleared land near the town of Catemaco.

Flora and fauna

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Los Tuxtlas is considered a biological hotspot because of the very high numbers of plant and animal species found here. It is an area where you might encounter animals that are common to North America as well as animals more commonly found in South America. The reserve boasts some 2,600 plant species and more than 800 vertebrates. Interestingly, more than 300 species of ant have been identified in the reserve.

Birdwatchers will enjoy trying to spot all of 560 species of birds. Some are common residents of the tropics, like the toucans, eagles, and vultures, but there are hundreds of songbirds that can only be spotted during winter months.

More than 140 mammal species live in the reserve. Some of the animals are most commonly found in South America, but they're perfectly happy in this part of Mexico. These include Tayras, and Kinkajous, both of which are small animals about the size of a raccoon or a coatamundi. Up in the jungle canopy, you can find large numbers of primates, like the mantled howler monkey, having a swinging time.

The park is filled with dense vegetation with huge kapok trees supporting the canopy. Down below are numerous mosses, epiphytes and colorful blooms of Bernoullia flammea, spiky pochote, and Ficus aurea (also known as golden fig trees).

Climate

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Los Tuxtlas has a tropical climate with very warm but stable temperatures and high humidity. Temperatures are typically between 25°C and 30°C. Rain is frequent at almost any time of year and higher altitudes receive almost twice as much rainfall as lowlands. The wettest months are September to November when heavy tropical storms bring torrential downpours. March to May are the driest months and are a good time to visit.

Get in

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The nearest city with commercial airline flights is in Veracruz, about 3-1/2 hours north by car or bus.

From Veracruz, frequent bus service is available to the nearby town of Catemaco, which is an excellent base from which to explore the various parts of the reserve. ADO operates four buses daily between Veracruz and Catemaco. AU operates buses to Catemaco from Mexico City's TAPO bus terminal and from Puebla's CAPU bus terminal. See Bus travel in Mexico.

In Catemaco, you can hire a local guide who can take you into remote parts of the reserve and who knows the backcountry trails and the different access points into the reserve.

Fees and permits

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Daily admission fees to the reserve cost M$95 per person. Children under 12, senior citizens and disabled persons are admitted free. Discounted admission is offered to students and teachers.

Get around

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Map
Map of Los Tuxtlas Biosphere Reserve

You'll probably end up doing a lot of hiking into the jungles, but it's a big reserve and walking long distances in sweltering weather gets tired fast. You will probably use Catemaco or San Andrés Tuxtla as your base and then make day trips to different points of interest in the park. The two main means of getting around larger distances are by truck (mixto) or by boat. Boats can be arranged in Catemaco to take you across the lake to various trailheads, as well as to points of interest like Monkey Island. The mixto is kind of like a jungle version of a combiː it carries passengers and cargo along dirt roads (usually mud roads) to remote villages and coastal communities. The mixto is typically a flatbed truck with benches along the sides in back and a canvas awning to protect passengers from either the beating sun or the beating torrential rains. In Catemaco, you can find mixtos as the marketplace, on Calle Carranza, and on Carretera a Playa Azul at the edge of town. Use the location where the mixtos are heading in the direction you want to go. Fares are cheap. Schedules are erratic.

Salto Eyipantla
  • 18.42275-95.0619271 Lake Catemaco. Large lake where boat tours are available. Popular among birdwatchers who come to see all the ducks, geese, and other waterfowl who migrate to Mexico where they can enjoy warm weather and zesty food. Migratory birds usually arrive around November and leave around April. OSM directions
  • 18.531065-95.0223522 Laguna de Sontecomapan. The winding mangrove swamps of Laguna de Sontecomapan offer a birdwatcher the opportunity to spot many aquatic bird species as well as parrots, toucans, and crocodiles. The village of Sontecomapan lies along a paved road from Catemaco and kayaks and tour guides offering boat tours can be hired there. The mouth of the lagoon, where it drains into the Gulf of Mexico is called La Barra. Mixtos (shared truck transportation) from Catemaco go to both locations. Laguna de Sontecomapan is a Ramsar wetland covering an area of almost 9,000 hectares. OSM directions
  • Salto de Eyipantla (Eypipantla Falls). An impressive 50-meter high waterfall with a pool at its base that is suitable for swimming.
  • 18.437531-95.0725613 Monkey Island (Isla de Monos). Island in Lake Catemaco populated by various types of new world primates, including mantled howler monkeys and spider monkeys. OSM directions
  • Bat Cave (Cueva de los Murcielagos). An island in Lake Catemaco has a cave where millions of bats live. Boat tours from the town of Catemaco will take you right up to the mouth of the cave (so wear a hat). Each evening at dusk, clouds of bats emerge to dine on the area's tasty of smorgasbord of mosquitos. (A second "Bat Cave" is in a mountain between Catemaco and the Gulf shore).
  • 18.706544-95.1837674 Roca Partida. This rocky point of land juts into the Gulf of Mexico. Volcanic slopes end at high basalt cliffs with columnar formations and a series of natural caves carved over millenia by the constant force of wind and ocean waves. The most famous cave on the point is called Lorencillo's Pirate Cave (Cueva de Pirata Lorencillo). Local lore says that the 17th century Dutch pirate, Laurent de Graff, used the cave to hide his stolen wealth from plundering the wealthy port of Veracruz. The cave is at the waterline and can be entered in a kayak when the tide allows. OSM directions
  • 18.648156-95.1170385 Cascadas Gemelas (Twin Falls) (near Montepio). Twin 10 meter high falls set in a lush jungle landscape. Locals often dive from the cliff tops, but before doing it, check where others dive and verify depths to avoid a broken neck. The pool at the base of the falls is clear and smooth and suitable for swimming. M$40. OSM directions
  • 18.64297-95.095896 Montepio. Beach village with several small hotels. Accessible by mixto from Catemaco OSM directions

Volcanoes

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The reserve has 7 volcanoes within its boundaries. None of these have lakes in their calderas, but have scenic overlooks which you can reach via a steep, rocky hike to the summit. Many of the trails are poorly marked and are frequently overgrown by the encroaching jungle vegetation. A local guide is needed to safely hike up the volcanoes.

  • 18.564065-95.1991521 Volcan San Martín Tuxtla. One of the most hiked volcano in the reserve, it rises to a height of 1,650 meters. Hiking trails to the summit crater ascend through dense cloud forests where trails can be slippery. The trails are somewhat difficult and require good physical conditioning. The volcano is an active shield volcano that last erupted in 1793. OSM directions
    • Volcanic tube caves beneath the foothills of the San Martin volcanoe are a series of caves that are actually lava tubes carved into the stone centuries ago. Local guides will take visitors into the lave tube caves.
  • 18.365223-94.8596182 Cerro Santa Marta. The reserve's second highest peak rises to an elevation of 1,660 meters. A 9-km hike to the summit will take about 9 hours. It is a rugged, steep trail that is physically demanding but offers a chance to see virgin rain forest and a wide assortment of tropical birds. OSM directions
  • 18.306489-94.7315043 Cerro San Martín Pajapan. This is an 1,160 meter high extinct volcano in the southern part of the reserve, near the Gulf of Mexico coast. The hike to the summit is moderately difficult and is shorter than the hikes to the top of other nearby volcanoes. OSM directions
  • 18.593804-95.0578224 Cerro El Vigía. The 800-meter high summit of the extinct volcano has scenic overlooks with panoramic vistas of the town of Santiago Tuxtla below. OSM directions

There are several small villages within the biosphere reserve and some larger towns adjacent or nearby. These typically have some small stores where you can buy supplies as well as restaurants and hotels. Towns include Catemaco, San Andrés Tuxtla, and Santiago Tuxtla. Catemaco has the best tourism infrastructure and tour guides can be hired to take you to remote sights within the preserve.

Drink

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Sleep

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Nearby towns include Catemaco, San Andrés Tuxtla, and Santiago Tuxtla, all of which have hotels or hostels where you can find inexpensive lodging. The seaside village of Montepio has a number of comfortable places to stay and is close to several waterfalls.

Lodging

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  • 18.44749-95.0684251 Nanciyaga Ecological Reserve. Cabins for rent on a hill overlooking Lake Catemaco. Spa services available. Tour services into the reserve can be arranged. On-site restaurant serves a good breakfast. Free kayaks available. Glamping also available. OSM directions
  • 18.364189-94.9677692 Poza Reyna, Catemaco, +52 229 154 3012. Rooms available in a lake house (Casa del Lago) where tours can be arranged including visits to fields where heritage varieties of red corn are said to have been grown for over 8,000 years. OSM directions

Camping

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  • Agayate (near Tebanca). Tent camping sites near the village of Tebanca.

Backcountry

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Backcountry camping is allowed. Inquire with local tour guides or the CONANP ranger stations.

Stay safe

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Go next

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