French
DeutschThe West Bank of Luxor in Egypt is also the gateway to the amazing Valley of the Kings, and a string of pharaonic mortuary temples vies with the richly-decorated Tombs of the Nobles and the workmen's village, Deir el-Medineh, for the visitors’ attention.
Understand
[edit | edit source]The West Bank is, archaeologically, the lushest paradise on this planet; the East Bank ties with Saqqara in second place, unanimously, among Egyptologists at least. The vast majority of visitors to Luxor tend to stay on the East Bank, which is the busy Egyptian city. The West Bank has a more relaxed vibe, and has a good selection of accommodations and restaurants.
Entrance and tickets
[edit | edit source]Most sights, tombs and areas have an entrance fee of LE220-750. As usual, students under the age of 24 get 50% off. Most government sites are credit card only. Premium sights such as the Tomb of Nefertari, the Tomb of Seti II, and the Tomb of Tutankhamun cost much more. Alternatively you can opt for a Premium Luxor Pass costing US$250, which allows entrance to all Luxor sights during 5 consecutive days.
If you are on a tight budget, however, a fair share of sights can also be explored from the outside for free without entering them but still having a decent picture, namely when hiking around the area—see a potential itinerary below. There are many closed tombs in the Tombs of Nobles area that are interesting to see, because often they allow a sneak through the gate—just walk around. Furthermore, the hill between the Tombs of Nobles and the large mountain range offers great views of the area, Ramesseum and the Temple of Hatshepsut. You just have to get into the Tombs of Nobles area, either directly from Deir el Medineh, directly from Deir el-Bahari, somewhere along the main road or with a single ticket to any of its tombs from the dedicated carpark/entrance.
1 The major ticket office is on the left at the end of the straight main road coming from the ferry port, right when you enter the archaeological area. Except for the Valley of the Kings, the Valley of the Queens and Deir el-Bahari, you will have to get your tickets there.
Get in
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- See the Luxor page for getting to the Luxor area.
From the airport
[edit | edit source]Taxis are available at Luxor International Airport, but fares should be agreed before starting the journey and may vary depending on the destination. Private airport transfers can also be arranged in advance for travellers going to hotels and other destinations throughout Luxor, including both the East Bank and West Bank.
Luxor1Transfers. Private airport transfers between Luxor International Airport and hotels and other destinations throughout Luxor, including the East Bank and West Bank. Advance booking is recommended.
One of the important recent developments in Luxor has been the construction and opening of the Major General Samir Farag Axis (North Luxor). This new road is about 19 km long and has three lanes in each direction. It connects the area of Luxor International Airport on the East Bank with the road network of the West Bank.
The project includes a 1,550-metre bridge across the Nile, creating a new connection between the two banks. The new route makes travelling between the East Bank and West Bank much easier, especially for visitors travelling by car.
There are access points to the new road on both sides of the Nile. This is particularly useful for visitors staying on the West Bank, as they can reach Luxor city, the airport and other areas of the East Bank more easily, while remaining close to the archaeological sites and the quieter rural areas of the West Bank.
For travellers arriving at Luxor International Airport and staying on the West Bank, the new connection provides a direct and convenient route to their accommodation without having to travel through central Luxor first.
From the train station
[edit | edit source]Taxis are available but, if on a budget and if you're reasonably mobile, it is a short walk to the ferry jetty from the railway station. Walk straight up al-mahatta and then round the tip of the Temple of Luxor to get there. A taxi ride from the station to the jetty should run to about LE10. Hotels on the West Bank are all within easy reach of the jetty.
By ferry from the East Bank
[edit | edit source]By far the quickest, most authentic and romantic manner of crossing the Nile to the west is by ferry or motor launch.
- 1 National Ferry. (Be wary of the few high pressure salesmen who might be on board, hoping to snare you for a taxi fare or accommodation offers: these may or may not be bargain.) LE25 for foreigners.
- 2 Motor launches (No set dock, but look for the boats along the riverbank. They set out from wherever they can pick up an agreeable customer.). The advantage of a launch being able to get going immediately. Prices vary widely, depending on your negotiation skills, roughly LE80-100 per launch as October 2025.
Get around
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The West Bank's archaeological sites are spread out.
By taxi
[edit | edit source]In summer the temperature varies from hot to extremely hot. So, the easiest way to get around is by hiring a taxi for the day. This will set you back about LE500–1000 from the West Bank, depending on your ability to haggle (Oct 2025). For a return trip to a particular site the price should not be more than LE100 for a minibus that takes up to 9 people. If your negotiation skills are reasonable, it is cheaper to hire a taxi by yourself, if not, you'll save yourself a lot of grief by asking your hotel to arrange one. In either event, bargain a bit because in Egypt the first price is always on the high side.
There are many tuk tuks as well, which charge a little less than standard taxis.
By tour
[edit | edit source]Many accommodations offer organised tours with a driver from the accommodation to and between the major archaeological sites. However, their schedule is quite tight and fixed. They will not appreciate any effort by their passengers to change the pre-defined tour, schedule and visiting times, mostly only 20 min at a site. They will also sometimes try to spend 30 min at a souvenir shop of their choice to get commission. In addition, you may be expected to visit and pay for a sight, even though you might not be interested in it. Such inexpensive tours start at LE50 per person. But if you find 4 people in your hostel or hotel, the taxi might be the more convenient option.
By bicycle
[edit | edit source]Bicycles are available for rent at hotels (LE10-20) and beyond the ferry jetty on the West Bank (LE30-40). In summer, be aware that the heat can be quite intense and the bikes tend to be primitive. Carry plenty of water. However, with a bicycle, you cannot walk much around, like between Deir el Medineh, the Valley of Nobles and the Temple of Hatshepsut.
By micro bus
[edit | edit source]Regular micro buses leave from the ferry to Gurna. If you can find your way onto one you'll get there on the cheap for LE2. The sites are usually 0.5 to 1 km away from the main road so you'll have to walk to get there.
On foot
[edit | edit source]Once you get to the archaeological area, by taxi or mini bus, it is possible, if likely tiresome, to hike the area at the foot of the mountains. There are small police stations along the hill tops. They should not hassle hikers.
If it is too much hassle to find transport from the ferry port area, walk the 3.5 km from there to Medinet Habu. In the early morning the weather is nicer and there will be many balloons flying over; you will pass green cultivation areas, and after them, the Colossi of Memnon and the remains of the Amenhotep III temple that once stood behind them, a pleasant and educative walk.
From the ticket office to the Valley of the Kings, you would rather use a taxi or tuk tuk.
It is no longer possible to hike up the mountain to the Valley of the Kings. Any such attempt will be prevented by the local police officers paying close attention.
See
[edit | edit source]It's a place of the Theban Necropolis, which was used for ritual burials for much of the Pharaonic period, especially during the New Kingdom. One of its most remarkable parts - the burial place of most of the pharaohs of Egypt of the New Kingdom - described in a separate article 1 Valley of the Kings.
Tickets for the sites can be purchase online or at ticket offices: Valley of the Kings, Valley of the Queens and Hatshepsut have their own ticket office; all other sites have a central ticket office. Only card payment is possible, no cash accepted. Current ticket prices can be checked at https://egymonuments.com/locations .
- 2 Medinet Habu (Mortuary Temple of Ramesses III) (the ticket office is 800 m northwest of this site, where the dirt road leads to Medinet Habu). A remarkable temple built by Ramses III that gets relatively few visitors. If you do not want to enter but simply walk around the temple and take a picture from the outside viewpoints, enter from the sealed road just southeast of the dirt road, which starts from the main road (between the ferry port and the archaeological area) just about 150 m before this main road turns right. The sealed road leads directly to the entrance of Medinet Habu, but without ticket you won't get in. LE220.
- 3 Colossi of Memnon (right before entering the archaeological area along the main road towards it). Two massive stone statues of the Pharaoh Amenhotep III, who reigned in the 18th Dynasty. No admission, view from the roadside.
- 4 Valley of the Queens. LE220, incl. entrance to all 3 available tombs, except for Nefertari one, which requires a separate ticket.
- 5 Tomb of Nefertari (QV66). The Great Wife of Pharaoh Ramesses II's tomb was discovered by Ernesto Schiaparelli (the director of the Egyptian Museum in Turin) in 1904. It is often called the Sistine Chapel of Ancient Egypt. Often closed for restoration through long periods, as of January 2026 the tomb is closed. LE2500 (max 10 min), no discounts for students.
- 6 Tomb of Amun-her-Khepeshef (QV 55). Amun-her-Khepeshef was the eldest son and appointed heir of Pharaoh Ramesses III. The tomb includes a sarcophagus, but the colors seem to be too strong to be thousands of years old.
- 7 Tomb of Titi (No. 52).
- 8 Tomb of Khaemwaset (QV 44). Built for a son of Pharaoh Ramesses III.
- 9 Deir el Medina. Originally called Set Maat (the Place of Truth), the village was built to house the Royal tombs' workforce of literate priest-craftsmen (the "Servants in the Place of Truth"), on the reign of Amenhotep I, the community's patron, worshipped here along his mother Ahmose-Nefertari. Its abundant domestic and written remains (thousands of ostraca) make it the very best-studied Ancient Egypt community to date. LE220.
- 10 Ptolemaic Temple.
- 11 Tomb of Ramose. The tomb of a famous Scribe in the Place of Truth. It consists of a court and a chapel. The chapel is decorated with scenes showing Amenhotep I, Ahmose Nefertari, Horemheb and Tuthmosis IV. Another scene shows King Ramesses II followed by the vizier Paser offering before the Theban Triad: Amun, Mut and Khonsu
- 12 Tomb of Senedjem. The burial place of Servant in the Place of Truth Sennedjem and his family. It was found undisturbed in 1886.
- 13 Tomb of Peshedu. The burial place of Servant in the Place of Truth Pashedu and his family
| Ozymandias of Egypt
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- 14 Ramesseum (Mortuary Temple of Ramses II - the Great), Gurna. The site of the Ramesseum includes the fallen colossal statue of the pharaoh that inspired the sonnet Ozymandias by Shelley, now the focus of a major restoration project. It stood 17 m (69 ft) high, weighed in excess of 1,000 tons and was transported from Aswan in a single block. The pylons of the temple preserve depictions of the famed Battle of Qadesh waged by Egyptian forces under Ramses II against the Hittite Empire, the city of Qadesh lying in central Syria, then the contested boundary between the two great ancient empires. Behind the pylons, where visitors now enter the temple, the Second Court features a portico fronted by massive statues of Ramses II in the form of Osiris, the god of the underworld. A hypostyle hall occupies the centre of the temple, featuring a well-preserved and painted ceiling. The stone-built temple buildings are surrounded by the remains of a mud-brick royal palace and storage magazines. LE220.
- 15 Temple of Merneptah, Gurna. Museum closed. Found immediately adjacent to the Ramesseum, the mortuary temple of Merneptah (the 13th son and eventual successor to the long-lived Ramesses II) was re-opened in 2002 as a new attraction after the careful and effective reconstruction of the temple foundations and lower courses by a Swiss archaeological team. (The temple was first excavated by the famous English Egyptologist Sir Flinders Petrie in 1904 and was the scene of his discovery of the so-called Israel Stela, featuring the earliest recorded mention of Israel in ancient sources, now to be seen in Cairo's Egyptian Museum). Although not featuring the inscribed wall reliefs and towering columns associated with many Egyptian temples, the Merneptah temple nonetheless now provides an unsurpassed impression of the layout of a 19th dynasty funerary temple with many interesting architectural details. A small partly-subterranean museum is also to be found on site, in which many of the magnificent painted reliefs and sculpture (many usurped by Merneptah from the nearby Mortuary Temple of Amenhotep III) are displayed. Sadly neglected by many visitors to the West Bank, the site and museum are nonetheless well worth a visit. LE100.
- 16 Malkata ("the place where things are picked up" in Arabic). A palace that was built in the 14th century BC, whose ancient name was Per-Hay, "House of Rejoicing". Built mostly out of mudbrick, it was Amenhotep III's residence throughout most of the later part of his reign. Construction began around year 11 of his reign and continued until the king moved there permanently, around his year 29. Once completed, it was the largest royal residence in Egypt. The site also included a temple dedicated to Amenhotep III's Great Royal Wife, Tiy, which honors Sobek, the crocodile deity.
Tombs of Nobles
[edit | edit source]Tombs of Nobles (Sheikh Abd el-Gurna), Gurna. Named after the doomed tomb of the local saint. This is the most frequently visited cemetery on the Theban west bank, with the largest concentration of private tombs. Free admission to the grounds.
- 17 Tombs of Khonsu, Userhat and Benia. LE40.
- 18 Tombs of Menna, Nakht, Amenemopet. LE60.
- Tombs of Ramose, Userhat and Khaemhat. LE60.
- 19 Tombs of Sennefer and Rekhmire. LE40.
- Tombs of Neferenpet, Thutmose and Neferskheru (Khokha). LE40.
Deir el-Bahari
[edit | edit source]Deir el-Bahari. A complex of mortuary temples and tombs. The first monument built at the site was the mortuary temple of Mentuhotep II, it was constructed during the 15th century BCE. Amenhotep I and Hatshepsut also built extensively at the site.
- 20 Temple of Hatshepsut. One of the more impressive sights on the West Bank and different to most other temples in Egypt. Beautifully located at the foot of the mountain, making for a great picture. LE440.
- 21 Temple of Montuhotep II (right next to Hatshepsut). closed for renovation. Part of the Hatshepsut ticket.
- 22 Tombs of El-Assasif. LE60.
- 23 Tomb of Parennefer (TT188) (right next to El-Assasif). Unusual tomb, carved and decorated solely during the early years of the rule of Akhenaten. The tomb is decorated with sculpted scenes, some of which were painted. The scenes were all badly damaged and the name of Parennefer was carefully removed. Its scenes may be the first to show Queen Nefertiti. LE40.
Dra' Abu el-Naga'
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The necropolis of Dra' Abu el-Naga'. is just by the entrance of the dry bay that leads up to Deir el-Bahri, and north of the necropolis of el-Assasif. It was probably used as a royal Necropolis for the kings of the 17th Dynasty, and contains the possible tomb of Amenhotep I, Tomb ANB. It was also used as a cemetery for officials of the New Kingdom administration in Thebes.
- 24 Temple of Seti I. The mortuary temple of Ramses the Great's father. The entire court and any pylons associated with the site are now in ruins, and much of the eastern part of the complex is buried under the modern town. LE60.
- 25 Carter's House (at the bottom of the road, not up on the hill). A lonely, domed building on the hill above the intersection where the main road to the Valley of the Kings meets the road to the Temple of Seti I, the house in which Howard Carter lived for the years he spent searching for the tomb of Tutankhamun. LE80.
- 26 Tomb ANB. It's the possible tomb of Amenhotep I.
Further away
[edit | edit source]- 27 Temple of Isis (Deir el-Shelwit), Shalwit. A temple to Isis from the Greco-Roman period. First excavated by Karl Richard Lepsius in the mid-19th century, LE40.
Do
[edit | edit source]- Hike the hills and area at the bottom of the mountains, between the temples, tombs and sights.
- Hot air balloon rides over Valley of the Kings see Luxor.
- If you are on a tight budget and just want to hike around and take some pictures (from the outside) consider the following route (6 km): Medinet Habu, Deir el Medineh, Tombs of Nobles (directly or with any single ticket to the tombs), Temple of Hatshepsut, Ramesseum (from the road).
Buy
[edit | edit source]Souvenirs, alabaster, perfume, etc.
Eat
[edit | edit source]- 1 Tutankhamun Restaurant (200 m south of the ferry landing). Fixed menu, with a choice of mains that varies with what is in season. LE90 set menu, drinks LE15-25. Sometimes they play a trick of refusing to show a menu or bringing the one without prices and then overcharging you later.
- 2 Sunflower Restaurant (very near the ferry dock, on your left if your back is to the river), ☏ +20 100 900 2234. Sun-Sun 11AM-11PM. Rooftop restaurant with a great view, very good food, and friendly staff. Very relaxed. Alcohol served. LE91 for a set menu of traditional Egyptian food, drinks LE20-30.
Sleep
[edit | edit source]- 1 Amon Hotel, El Gezira (Follow the signs to Pharaoh's Stables from the ferry jetty), ☏ +20 952 310912, +20 122732754, fax: +20 952 311205. On a quiet side street this is an excellent mid-range choice. The hotel has a beautiful tropical courtyard garden and the owner, Ahmed, is a great source for all things in Luxor, including fair prices. Breakfast is included and a traditional Egyptian dinner available on request. Some rooms with AC, all with attached bath. LE25-50, AC Doubles LE200.
- 2 Aton Palace Luxor, Giza - Luxor Rd, Al Qurna, Luxor Governorate 1342110, Egypt, ☏ +20 100 737 4116, atonpalace@gmail.com. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 12:00. Hotel on the West Bank of Luxor, with air-conditioned rooms and private bathrooms. Facilities include a restaurant, garden, terrace and free Wi-Fi. Airport transfers and tour arrangements are available. €45–65.
- 3 El Fayrouz Hotel, Gezira El Bairat (walking distance from the ferry), ☏ +20 10 931 036 44, +20 12 227 705 65, +20 95 2312 709, elfayrouzhotel@gmail.com. Very popular with archaeologists and their crowd. 3 rooftop terraces, nice garden with local trees, restaurant and bar. Credit cards not accepted.
- 4 Gezira Garden Hotel, el Gezira, West Bank (Near the ferry). El Gezira is family-owned and has 11 air-conditioned rooms LE60/80 single/double, breakfast included.
- 5 Marsam Hotel, ☏ +20 952 372403, marsam@africamail.com. Rooms arranged around a charming courtyard restaurant overlooking the fields behind the Colossi of Memnon. One of the most peaceful spots on the West Bank.
- 6 El Phardous Home, ☏ +20 95 23 13 435, +20 10 60 93 076, post@elphardous.com. A peaceful oasis near the Valley of the Kings mountain on the West Bank of the Nile at Luxor in Egypt with 11 double and 2 single rooms and can provide full or half board. Owners are Norwegian and Egyptian, and the standard suits anyone looking for an inexpensive, clean, peaceful and friendly place to stay. Single/double LE120/230.
- 7 [dead link] Al Salam Camp (Bedouin-style hospitality), Ramlah Village, West Bank, ☏ +20 106 824 067 (Ahmed), alsalamcamp@yahoo.com. Peaceful, friendly family-run hutted camp ideal for independent travellers and close to all the sites. Children are welcome and will find many playmates. Very inexpensive, wonderful food, trips and activities, and a real taste of local life. LE15-30.
- 8 Hotel Sheherazade, El Gezira (West Bank) (As for the Amon Hotel. The Sheherazade is opposite the Amon), ☏ +20 10 558 2431. A delightful hotel with simple but perfectly adequate rooms around a courtyard. The staff are excellent. Breakfast is included and the restaurant is open most of the day serving a mixture of foods, including excellent Egyptian style food. LE100-200.
Splurge
[edit | edit source]- 9 Hotel al-Moudira, ☏ +20 123 251 307, fax: +20 123 220 528. 54 double rooms with a distinct Oriental feel: domed ceilings, latticework, hand-painted frescoes. Swimming pool and spacious grounds. US$150-200.
- 10 Nile Valley Hotel, Gezirat el Bairat, West Bank (Near the ferryboat landing), ☏ +20 95 2311477, hotel@nilevalley.nl. Small family hotel with swimming pool, 21 rooms with attached bath, AC, TV, fridge, and a rooftoop restaurant with views of the Nile and the temple of Luxor. Airport/rail station pickup available. €15/22 single/double.
Stay safe
[edit | edit source]- Carry plenty of water, wear sensible shoes and a hat, strongly consider sunscreen. The West Bank is too amazing to be spent in pain and discomfort, and bring a torch as some of the tombs are quite dark.
- Hiking up and down the mountain was an issue in the past and some travelers slipped along the way up or down the Valley of the Kings. This is not permitted anymore. However, take care when ascending any other things, which are far less solid than used to in Europe.
- If using a credit card, use contactless or chip-and-pin only, as some shops are masters at fraud.
Cope
[edit | edit source]The sites in Luxor are nothing short of spectacular. So, it is best to be organized.
- A flashlight! It is dark in the tombs and the lights don't always work either because they don't or because the caretaker can't be bothered with turning them on.
- Plenty of small notes. Parting with LE10–20 notes is almost the cost of being a tourist in Egypt and can magically open 'closed' tombs, light up dark chambers, or get rid of a particularly pesky tout.
- Each of the tombs has a guardian who will let you in, show you around, tell you that photos aren't permitted, but he'll look the other way for a little bakhsheesh. Some will be happy if you slip them LE10 or 20, others will pester you for more if you "only" give them LE50. The guardians are paid very little as almost anybody in Africa, but tips are at your discretion.
- Water is available outside most of the sites but not always readily available inside. However, it is advisable to take enough water with you as prices are highly marked up.
- If you don't know Osiris from Anubis, it might be a good idea to read up a bit before you go. Otherwise, you'll wonder what the fuss is all about.