Mountain Province

Mountain Province is in the Cordillera region of Luzon in the Philippines. Formerly encompassing almost the entire Cordillera region, its rump core, located right in the middle of the Cordillera massif, is a center of indigenous Igorot culture.

Mountain Province is divided into 10 municipalities, all rural and sparsely populated, with each having a central town.

• 17.041389121.0994441 Barlig
• 16.991667120.8644442 Bauko — largest town by population
• 17.095278120.8561113 Besao
• 17.09120.9772224 Bontoc — provincial capital
• 17.108889121.2797225 Natonin
• 17.181111121.4036116 Paracelis — eastern gateway to the province from Isabela, and a stronghold of Gaddang tribes displaced from Cagayan Valley during the Spanish occupation
• 17.004444120.9233337 Sabangan
• 17.168056121.0263898 Sadanga — traditional town known for its practice of closing itself entirely to outsiders on certain days determined by resident shamans.
• 17.084167120.9008339 Sagada — tourist capital, known for its hanging coffins and natural landscapes
• 16.996111120.82083310 Tadian — sometimes known as Kayan, it is the gateway to the province from Ilocos Sur

Mountain Province occupies over 2,097 km² (810 sq mi) of land area, mostly mountainous terrain. The capital is Bontoc. The province occupies the very center of the Cordillera Mountains.

The province is bounded on the south by Ifugao and Benguet, on the west by Ilocos Sur, to the north by Abra and Kalinga, and to the east by Isabela.

It is predominantly inhabited by the Bontoc, an Igorot subgroup concentrated around the Bontoc area. They are then divided into various tribes and clans. The eastern parts of the province are inhabited by the Balangaos (in Natonin) and Gaddangs (in Paracelis). Since the 20th century, there is a slow influx of Ilocano migrants in the province.

Mountain Province has a more temperate climate due to its altitude. Daytime highs rarely reach 25 °C (77 °F), but the nighttime lows can reach below 7 °C (45 °F) during the cool season, causing frost that can destroy vegetables.

Many visit the province during the dry season between November and April, where temperatures are at its coolest and rainfall at its lowest. The rainy season is rather the same as with the rest of Luzon, but precipitation is somewhat higher. Heavy rain, especially those brought by typhoons, can cause seasonal road closures due to landslides and rockfalls.

Archeological evidence suggests that Mountain Province has long been settled as early as 2000 BP. Throughout the 16th to 19th centuries, the Spaniards based in Ilocos Region and Cagayan Valley tried to subjugate Mountain Province, then organized into the districts of Bontoc, Lepanto and Amburayan, with limited success. In retaliation, Igorot tribes raided lowland villages and beheaded residents in headhunting raids.

The Americans occupied the Cordillera region in the early 20th century and turned it into a somewhat lazily-conceived name called Mountain Province encompassing much of the area in 1908, with the capital in Bontoc, a small village that was converted into a hill station and summer resort along with Sagada. Unlike other province in the country, it was granted special status in that the Americans ran the place more closely and appointed most of its officials rather than hold elections. Bontoc, Lepanto and Amburayan were reorganized as component districts of the province, but over the succeeding decades, Lepanto and Amburayan were abolished and carved up among its neighboring provinces and districts, leaving Bontoc more or less intact.

In 1966, the Mountain Province was carved up into several independent provinces, leaving Bontoc subprovince to take on the name of a severely diminished Mountain Province. In the 1970s, the province began to be affected by the communist insurgency of the New People’s Army and experienced further upheavals brought by a heightened awareness of Igorot identity and opposition to plans by the dictatorship of Ferdinand Marcos to build a dam on the Chico River, which would have inundated much of the province including Bontoc.

In 1988, Mountain Province was transferred from the Ilocos Region to the Cordillera Administrative Region. Its voters rejected autonomy for the Cordillera in referendums in 1990 and 1998.

Historically an agricultural society, Mountain Province's economy has gradually been changed by the opening of roads to foreigners and domestic tourists in the 20th century. As such, tourism has become a leading source of revenue, particularly in Sagada, although the province's geography and poor infrastructure make it difficult for large-scale tourist enterprises to take hold unlike in Baguio.

The native language is Bontoc, which has various dialects per town. An alternative lingua franca is Ilocano, brought by lowland migrants who settled in the province, followed by Tagalog and English.

Mountain Province can be accessed through the following national roads; Nueva Vizcaya-Ifugao-Mountain Province Road (Route 109), the main thoroughfare for buses originating from Metro Manila, Tagudin-Cervantes-Sabangan Road, which leads to Ilocos Sur, Halsema Highway, which leads to Benguet, and Mountain Province-Kalinga Road, which leads to Kalinga and Cagayan provinces. Unlike other provinces, public transportation to Mountain Province operates at an infrequent pace, with some transport companies offering only 1-2 daily trips to the province by transport companies and others operating a monopoly on select areas. Apart from Metro Manila, the main transport hubs leading to Mountain Province include Baguio, Candon and Cervantes in Ilocos Sur, Banaue and Lagawe in Ifugao, Tabuk in Kalinga and Santiago City in Isabela (for those heading to Paracelis).

There are no road connections to Abra.

One can get around the province by public transportation such as jeepney, bus, and passenger van. Tricycles are used within towns.

Due to infrequent services, it is better to take a 4WD or any vehicle suitable for mountain roads. Many attractions are accessible following extended hikes.

Most visitors come to Mountain Province just to take a respite from hectic urban life in Sagada, although the town is beginning to show strains from overtourism. Bontoc, long dismissed as a stopover on the way to Sagada, is slowly being discovered for its small-town vibe and natural attractions, while the other towns are also underrated centers of indigenous culture and have their own mountain peaks waiting to be explored.

Rice terrace complexes can be found in Natonin. Scenic terrains of cornfields can be found in neighboring Paracelis.

Partake in cultural activities such as pounding rice, community dances and listening to the indigenous chants.

There are very few banks or ATMs outside Bontoc. Most transactions are conducted in cash.

Like the rest of the Cordilleras, Mountain Province cuisine is comprised of highland rice, starch vegetables and game.

Rice wine is the native drink.

The bulk of tourist accommodation is in Sagada, followed by Bontoc. Most accommodation consists of small inns, hostels or homestays.

Accidents and landslides are common along the mountain roads, with the danger compounded by low or nonexistent guard rails and fog. Ensure that your vehicle is in good condition.

Permits are required from local authorities to undertake most hikes or mountain climbing. The hiking season runs during the dry season from November to May. While Mountain Province is often known for its cool weather, do not underestimate the effects of heat and exhaustion while climbing, especially as many of the slopes are directly exposed to sunlight.

There is periodic tribal warfare caused by a territorial dispute between residents of Sadanga against those of Tinglayan in Kalinga province. In such cases, tourists will be barred from entering the area.

• Benguet
• Kalinga
• Ilocos Sur