
Fort (फोर्ट Phorṭ) is the old city centre of Mumbai, known for its British colonial architecture, especially the Victorian Gothic structures recognised as part of the
UNESCO World Heritage Site of Victorian Gothic and Art Deco Ensembles of Mumbai.
The district gets its name from the fortified walls of Bombay, and its annexe Fort George. Fort extends from the docks in the east, to Azad Maidan in the west, Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus (CSMT) in the north to Kala Ghoda in the south.
Get in
[edit | edit source]By metro
[edit | edit source]By far the most comfortable and fastest way of getting into Fort. The Aqua Line 3 connects the city's airport to the 1 Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus 3 .
By train
[edit | edit source]The Central and Harbour lines of the Mumbai Suburban Railway end at the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus Central Harbour (CSMT). Most tourist areas can be reached most easily from CSMT.
On foot
[edit | edit source]Since the district is not very spread out, walking is a good option. This allows the opportunity of admiring the architecture, interacting with locals and tasting street food.
By car
[edit | edit source]It is best to avoid getting your car here, especially on a weekday. While traffic discipline is better than almost anywhere else in India, the extraordinary amount of traffic and the near impossibility of finding parking close to your destination make this a bad option to take. Even if you drive down, it is a good idea to park your car at one of the paid parking areas run by the Municipal Corporation (look for "BMC" or "MCGM" on the streets) and then take other means of transport to your destination.
See
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The area houses several colonial buildings which can be best explored on foot. Today the buildings serve as railway stations, office buildings, departmental stores, museums and libraries. The Interior of office buildings and libraries are usually out of reach of ordinary tourists but the museums do allow visitors. Although the colonial buildings are scattered all over the district, they can be classified under certain geographical areas, like Around Oval Maidan, Mumbai Harbour and Shyama Prasad Mukherjee Chowk.
- 1 Dalal Street (दलाल पथ Dalāl Path). The historic financial heart of Mumbai, and home to the iconic Bombay Stock Exchange (BSE). Like New York's Wall Street, Dalal Street is a metonym for India's big business, stock market and the entire financial industry based in Mumbai. A narrow alley running between Mumbai Samachar Marg and Nagindas Master Rd, Dalal Street is named after the Marathi word for broker, as local brokers were trading informally under banyan trees near Horniman Circle in the 1850s. In 1875, they formed the Native Share and Stock Brokers’ Association, which is now the Bombay Stock Exchange (BSE).
- 2 Elphinstone College. Eliphinstone College is affiliated with Dr Homi Bhabha State University since 2019. The college was established in 1856 and was part of Mumbai University till 2019. The grand building housing the college came up in 1888. The building was designed by Trubshaw, and supervised by Khan Bahadur Muncherjee Murzban. It follows Gothic architecture and is a Grade I heritage building.
- 3 Esplanade Mansion (formerly Watson's Hotel), Library Marg, Mantralaya. It was once one of the most posh hotels in the area, now in a pathetic condition due to negligence. There's a popular myth that Jamsetji Tata was refused entry to the hotel and he went on to build the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel near the Gateway of India. However, there's no evidence behind this story, and it's mainly shared to highlight his success stories.
- 4 Fort George ruins. An extension to the fortified walls of Bombay built in 1769. The hill on which the Dongri Fort stood was razed, and in its place Fort George was built, named after king George III. In 1862, the fort was demolished. A part is visible near St. George Hospital. The fort was 1 mi (1.6 km) long and about 1⁄3 mi (0.54 km) in breadth. Its length was from NNE to SSW.
- 5 General Post Office. 14 hours daily. General Post Office (GPO) is the central post office for the city of Mumbai. The building was designed by John Begg and was completed in 1913. It is modelled on the lines of Gol Gumbaz in Vijayapura, Karnataka. The building is complete with domes and turrets and follows the Indo-Saracenic style of architecture.
Victorian Gothic buildings
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- 6 Bombay High Court. The massive building of Bombay High Court lies on the northeastern side of the Oval Maidan. It follows the Victorian Neo-Gothic style of architecture and was constructed by Col. James A. Fuller of the Royal Engineers. The building was completed in 1878 and is 562 feet (171 m) long and 187 feet (57 m) wide. The central part of the western side is an elevated section flanked by two octagonal towers. The towers are crowned with the statues of Justice and Mercy. The Bombay High Court is best viewed and photographed from the Oval Maidan.
- 7 Cowasji Jehangir Convocation Hall. The convocation hall of the University of Mumbai, built between 1869 and 1874. Designed by Londoner Sir George Gilbert Scott who never visited Bombay, the building is named after Cowasji Jehangir Readymoney who funded the construction. The building contains a circular stained glass window at the front with designs of the Zodiac signs, and a semi-circular chancel at the back.
- 8 Municipal Corporation Building, 5, Mahapalika Marg, Dhobi Talao (southwest corner of CSMT). The V-shaped building built in Victorian Gothic style houses the office of the Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation (BMC), also known as the Municipal Corporation of Greater Mumbai (MCGM), the civic body that governs the city of Mumbai. The building was completed in 1893 and serves as the headquarters of BMC. It is classed as grade IIA heritage. The building is dominated by a 255 ft (78 m) tall tower, which is crowned with a massive dome. The pediment of the building is crowned with a statue of a winged allegorical figure representing the urbs prima in Indis. The pediment also houses the coat of arms of Mumbai.
- 9 Rajabai Clock Tower, Karmaveer Bhaurao Patil Marg (in Mumbai University, close to Flora Fountain; Churchgate station 0.6 km S). Similar to the Big Ben of London, the tower was built in a fusion of Venetian and Gothic styles. It is built out of the locally available buff-coloured Kurla stone. The tower has one of the best-stained glass windows in the city. The ground floor has two side rooms, each measuring 140 m². The tower forms a carriage porch 2.4 m², and a spiral staircase vestibule of 2.6 m². The tower, over the carriage porch, has a square form up to the gallery at the top of the first level which is at a height of 20.7 m from the ground. The form changes from a square to an octagon and the height from this gallery to the top of the tower is 36 m and the third stage to the top of the finial is 28.7 m, thus making a total height of 85 m. It chimes every 15 minutes. The Rajabai Clock Tower is best viewed and photographed from the Oval Maidan.
Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus
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- 10 Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus Central Harbour (CSMT; छत्रपती शिवाजी महाराज टर्मिनस Chatrapatī Śivājī Mahārāj Ṭarminas), Dadabhai Naoroji Rd. The former Victoria Terminus is one of the main disembarking stations for suburban and long-distance trains. The road goes further up to Ballard Estate where a lot of corporate offices and Mumbai Port are situated. The station building is designed in the High Victorian Gothic style of architecture. The building exhibits a fusion of influences from Victorian Italianate Gothic Revival architecture and traditional Indian architecture. The skyline, turrets, pointed arches, and eccentric ground plan is close to traditional Indian palace architecture.
The wood carving, tiles, ornamental iron and brass railings, grills for the ticket offices, the balustrades for the grand staircases and other ornaments were the work of students at the Sir Jamsetjee Jeejebhoy School of Art. The station stands as an example of 19th-century railway architectural marvels for its advanced structural and technical solutions. The station was constructed using a high level of engineering both in terms of railway engineering and civil engineering. It is one of the first and is considered one of the finest products of the use of industrial revolution technology merged with the revival of the Gothic Revival style in India. The centrally domed office structure has a 150 m (490 ft) long platform connected to a 500 m (1,600 ft) long train shed, and its outline provides the skeleton plan for the building. Its dome of dovetailed ribs, built without centring, was considered as a novel achievement of the era. It has a C-shaped plan which is symmetrical on an east-west axis. All the sides of the building are given equal value in the design. It is crowned by a high central dome, which acts as the focal point. The dome is an octagonal ribbed structure with a colossal female figure symbolising progress, holding a torch pointing upwards in her right hand and a spoked wheel in her left hand. The side wings enclose the courtyard, which opens onto the street. The wings are anchored by monumental turrets at each of their four corners, which balance and frame the central dome. The façades present the appearance of well-proportioned rows of windows and arches. The ornamentation in the form of statuary, bas-reliefs, and friezes is exuberant yet well-controlled. The columns of the entrance gates are crowned with figures of a lion (representing Great Britain) and a tiger (representing India). The main structure is built from a blend of Indian sandstone and limestone, while high-quality Italian marble was used for the key decorative elements.
The interior of the building was conceived as a series of large rooms with high ceilings. It is a utilitarian building and has had various changes required by the users, not always sympathetic. The main interiors are also decorated: the ground floor of the North Wing, known as the Star Chamber, which is still used as the booking office, is embellished with Italian marble and polished Indian blue stone. The stone arches are covered with carved foliage and grotesques. Internally, the ceiling of the booking hall was originally painted blue, gold and strong red on a ground of rich blue with gold stars. Its walls were lined with glazed tiles made by Maw & Co of Britain. Outside, there are statues representing commerce, agriculture, engineering and science, with a statue representing progress on the central dome of the station. A statue of Queen Victoria beneath the central dome has been removed. CSMT has 18 platforms, 7 for suburban trains and 11 for long-distance trains.
Mumbai Port
[edit | edit source]- 11 Bombay Castle (मुंबई वाडा Mumbaī Vāḍā). One of the oldest defensive structures in Mumbai. The current building is built by the British on the site of a manor built by a Portuguese nobleman Garcia de Orta. It once served as the Governor's House of the Bombay Presidency, which was later moved to Parel and eventually Malabar Point. It houses the offices of the Flag Officer Commanding-in-Chief Western Naval Command, and as with many military structures in use, entry is restricted to military personnel only.
- 12 Port Trust War Memorial. A memorial dedicated to the 1.87 million World War I personnel who embarked and disembarked at the docks.
Gardens and sculptures
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- 13 Flora Fountain, Hutatma Chowk (Martyr's Square). Flora Fountain is an ornamental fountain dedicated to the Roman Goddess Flora. The walls of the Bombay Fort were demolished in 1862 and the gate leading to the church was replaced by the Flora Fountain in 1864. It was built at a cost of ₹64,000 or £9,000. The Flora Fountain is surrounded by several Victorian-era buildings. In 1960, the square was renamed "Hutatma Chowk" (Martyr's Square) in memory of the people who laid their lives during the birth of the state of Maharashtra. Next to the Flora Fountain stands a stone statue in memory of the martyrs. The statue consists of a pair of martyrs holding a torch.
- 14 Horniman Circle Gardens. A circular open space covering an area of 12,081 square yards (10,101 m²) at the heart of Mumbai's Fort area. Construction of the garden started in 1921 and was completed after 12 years. After 1942 the garden lost its glory and was used as a dumping area of coconut shells. In 1872 the park was given a new lease of life by the then governor Lord Elphinstone, Trees were planted and walkways were laid out. The garden came to be known as Bombay Greens and the circle surrounding it came to be known as Elphinstone Circle. After independence, the park was renamed in honour of Benjamin Horniman, editor of The Bombay Chronicle. An ornamental fountain was placed in the centre, but it was replaced by a modern art deco iron pipes design. Today the park is surrounded by an office complex, including some offices of premium banks. The office of the Asiatic Society of Mumbai and the St. Thomas Cathedral are in the circle surrounding the park.
- 15 Kala Ghoda Statue (काळा घोडा Kāḷā Ghoḍā). Literally "Black Horse", Kala Ghoda is Mumbai's crescent-shaped art district. The name originally referred to a black equestrian statue of King Edward VII built by Jewish businessman and philanthropist David Sassoon. There used to be an urban legend that the Kala Ghoda statue and another equestrian statue of Shivaji at the Gateway of India come to life at midnight and fight together on the street. Although Edward VII's statue was removed in 1965 and placed inside the Jijamata Udyan, a new "Kala Ghoda" statue was sculpted and installed at the precinct without the rider in 2017. An arts festival is held here annually on February, which is a must-see.
Libraries and societies
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- 16 Asiatic Library at Asiatic Society, Shahid Bhagat Singh Rd (Next to Horniman Circle, Hutatma Chowk), ☏ +91 22 22611994. The Asiatic Society of Mumbai is a learned society in the field of Asian studies. The library of the Society has over 100,000 books out of which 15,000 are classified as rare and valuable. It also has priceless artefacts and over 3,000 ancient manuscripts in Persian, Sanskrit and Prakrit, mostly on paper but some on palm leaf. The numismatic collection of 11,829 coins includes a gold coin of Kumaragupta I, a rare gold mohur of Akbar and coins issued by Shivaji. Its map collection comprises 1300 maps. The Town Hall (colloquially called "Tondal" in the 19th century) that houses the Asiatic Society of Mumbai was not built in 1804, the year in which the Literary Society of Bombay was formed. Though Sir James Mackintosh mooted the proposal for a grand edifice, it was not completed until 1830 (year to be confirmed with tablet on the entrance) after many fits and starts, when the Bombay Government agreed to make up for the shortfall in funds in return for office space. The after-effects of this compromise can still be seen in the unseemly crowds gathered at the Stamp Office and other government departments in the Town Hall. It is now classified as a heritage structure. Heavily influenced by Greek and Roman architecture, it has a portico with eight Doric columns. A flight of 30 steps lead up to the town hall and a wrought iron divided Regency staircase leads to the vestibule. In 1830 Sir John Malcolm, governor of Bombay stated: "It is the most magnificent structure that taste and munificence combined have as yet erected in India."
- 17 Bombay Natural History Society (BNHS, Hornbill House), Shaheed Bhagat Singh Rd, Fort (opposite Lion Gate, Eastern Wing of CSMVS), ☏ +91 22 2282 1811, fax: +91 22 22837615, [email protected]. This is a massive source of information for those interested in flora and fauna. Houses collections of beetles and butterflies. There is another floor which has embalmed reptiles, birds, and animal pelts. It's the natural history section of CSMVS. The Bombay Natural History Society aided the Museum Trust in creating the natural history section. The museum's natural history section illustrates Indian wildlife, including flamingoes, Great Hornbill, Indian bison, and the tiger. For entry, you need to buy a general ticket for CSMVS. Separate entry to the natural history section is not possible. ₹650 for foreigners (refer to tickets for CSMVS).
- 18 David Sassoon Library, 152 Mahatma Gandhi Marg, Kala Ghoda (Opposite Kala Ghoda statue), ☏ +91 22843703. This is a famous library and heritage structure. The idea for a library to be built in the centre of the city was the brainchild of Albert Sassoon, son of the famous Baghdadi Jewish philanthropist, David Sassoon. The building was designed by architects J. Campbell and G. E. Gosling, for Scott McClelland and Company, at a cost of ₹125,000. David Sassoon donated ₹60,000, while the rest was borne by the Government of Bombay Presidency. The building, completed in 1870, is built using yellow Malad stone, much like the abutting Elphinstone College, Army and Navy Buildings and Watson's Hotel. Above the entrance portico is a white stone bust of David Sassoon.
Museums and galleries
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- 19 Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (CSMVS; छत्रपती शिवाजी महाराज वस्तुसंग्रहालय Chatrapatī Śivājī Mahārāj Vastusaṅgrahālay; formerly Prince of Wales Museum of Western India), 159-161, MG Rd, Fort (next to Jehangir Art Gallery, near Regal Cinema), ☏ +91 22 2284-4484, +91 22-2284-4519, fax: +91 22-2204-5430, [email protected]. Tu-Su 10:15AM-5:45PM. Housed in a wonderful example of Indo-Saracenic architecture, the museum was established in 1904. The building, built of basalt and kurla stone, is a three-storied rectangular structure, capped by a dome set upon a base, which adds an additional storey in the centre of the building. The building accommodates a central entrance porch, above which rises a dome, "tiled in white and blue flecks, supported on a lotus-petal base". A cluster of pinnacles, topped with miniature domes surround the central dome. The building incorporates features like an Islamic dome with a finial along with protruding balconies and inlaid floors, inspired by Mughal palace architecture. The architect, George Wittet, modelled the dome on that of Golconda Fort and the inner vaulting arches on those at the Gol Gumbaz in Bijapur. The interior of the museum combines the columns, railings and balcony of an 18th-century Wada (a Maratha mansion) with Jain-style interior columns, which form the main body of the central pavilion below the Maratha balcony. The ground floor contains a small, but representative collection of sculptures from ancient and medieval India. A mezzanine floor has exhibits on the Indus Valley civilization that is not particularly well organized but worth a stop, especially if your visit to India does not include the National Museum in Delhi. The first floor has an impressive collection of Buddhist (Nepal and Tibet) thangkas and bronzes and a smorgasbord of medieval Indian court and religious paintings. The third floor houses an indifferent collection of European art and medieval weaponry that is best skipped. Opened new galleries: Krishna Art Gallery, Indian Miniature Painting Gallery, Textile or Indian costume gallery. The excellent audio guide and the building itself make this museum a must on any visit to Mumbai. ₹40 for Indians, ₹650 for foreigners Audio guide worth ₹150 complimentary with the price for foreigners.
- 20 Jehangir Art Gallery, 161 Kalaghoda, ☏ +91 22 22843989. Free. The building has been designed by Durga Bajpai and is one of the early concrete structures in the city. The gallery has been turned inwards due to a combined function of an auditorium and an art gallery. Daily 11AM-7PM.
- 21 National Gallery of Modern Art. Tu-Su 11AM-6PM. The gallery came up in 1996 but the building housing it dates back to 1911. The building housed an auditorium known as the Sir Cowasji Jehangir Public Hall (popularly known as Sir C J Hall). The interior is centred around a central stairway with semi-circular galleries at different levels. The gallery was an initiative of art connoisseur Kekoo Gandhy and sculptor Piloo Pochkhanawala. The gallery exhibits modern art from the last 150 years. It exhibits works of famous contemporary artists like S H Raza and M F Husain. ₹20 for Indians.
- 22 RBI Monetary Museum (मुद्रा संग्रहालय Mudrā Saṅgrahālay; मैद्रिक संग्रहालय Maudrik Saṅgrahālay), GF, Amar Bldg, Sir Phirozshah Mehta Rd, Fort, [email protected]. 10AM–5PM (closed M). One of the museums in India that covers the evolution of money in the country, from the earliest barter system and the use of cowries to paper money, coins, stock markets and modern-day electronic transactions. ₹10.
Places of worship
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- 23 Kenesseth Eliyahoo Synagogue (בית הכנסת אליהו), 55, Dr. V.B. Gandhi Marg, Kala Ghoda (behind the Kala Ghoda statue), ☏ +91 22 831502 22 839617. M–Th 10AM–4PM. Synagogue built in 1884 by Jacob Elias Sassoon and his brother Albert Sassoon in memory of their father Eliyahoo David Sassoon, who was the son of David Sassoon. It was designed by the British architectural firm Gostling & Morris. The exteriors are a combination of blue and white and it is known as Mumbai's Blue Synagogue. The synagogue is a combination of Neo-Classical and Gothic-Victorian architecture. The exterior faces contain Corinthian columns and triangular pediments. The interior contains beautiful stained glass windows with floral motifs. The floor is laid out with beautiful tiles and there are ornamental pillars. The women's gallery is on the first floor. The central platform has metal ornamental railings. The Ark facing Jerusalem has a beautiful ornate wooden door and inside there are several Torah scrolls. ₹300 entry, ₹500 entry + photo, ₹1000 entry + video.
Churches
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- 24 St Thomas Cathedral, 3 Veer Nariman Rd (W of Horniman Circle Gardens), ☏ +91 22 2202 4482. Daily 7AM-6PM. Completed in 1718, it is the first Anglican church in Mumbai, to improve the "moral standards" of the growing British settlement. One of the gates in the Fort which the East India Company had built to protect their settlement was the entrance to the St. Thomas Church. It was called Churchgate. That is why the whole area towards the West of the Church is called “Churchgate” even today. The church was consecrated a cathedral in July 1837. The tower and the clock at the western end were added in 1838. About 25 years later a major renovation scheme was launched to enlarge the chancel. This was completed by 1865. The cathedral marks colonial Bombay's point zero, the exact centre of the city. Today a plaque at the entrance of the cathedral narrates the history of zero point. Free entry.
- 25 Church of St Andrew and St Columba (Scots' Kirk). open S for service. A church with two buildings dedicated to St Andrew and St Columba respectively. It is the city's first Scottish church, built in 1819 after the arrival of the city's first Presbyterian minister, James Clow, who was appointed chaplain for the East India Company in 1815. The Greek Revival architecture of St Andrew is said to have been inspired by St Martin-in-the-Fields, London.
Zoroastrian temples
[edit | edit source]Zoroastrian temples, also called "agiaries" (Gujarati: અગિયારી agiyārī), are unique in the sense that they use fire and ash for purification rituals. Non-Parsis are generally not allowed to enter these temples.
- 26 Banaji Limji Agiary. The oldest Zoroastrian temple in Mumbai, built in 1709. It has a fortress-like structure.
- 27 Maneckji Seth Agiary (Parsi Fire Temple), 146, Perin Nariman St. The second-oldest Zoroastrian temple in Mumbai. Non-Parsis can only go inside the external walls of the temple, so you can admire its hybrid Persian-Greek Revival architecture, with two lamassus standing guard at the temple entrance.
Do
[edit | edit source]Cinemas
[edit | edit source]- 1 Capitol Cinema (opposite CSMT). A cinema built in 1879 by Kunvarji Paghtivala as a theatre. It was converted into a cinema by 1928.
Parks and clubs
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- 2 Azad Maidan (आझाद मैदान Ājhād Maidān). A triangular urban open space in the heart of Mumbai. The Azad along with Cooperage Maidan, Cross Maidan and Oval Maidan once from the Esplanade, an open area that lay beyond the ramparts of the fort. After the demolition of the fort, several streets were constructed across the Esplanade, fragmenting it into several separate patches of green. Azad Maidan is known for its cricket pitches, protest meetings and political rallies.
- 3 Bombay Gymkhana, Fort. One of the premiere gentlemen's clubs in the city. It was originally a British-only club, designed by architect Claude Batley. The Gymkhana's Grounds offers its members various sporting facilities like rugby, football, cricket, swimming, tennis, badminton and squash and also has a fitness centre.
- 4 Oval Maidan (suburban: Churchgate Western ). A large urban open space in the heart of Mumbai. It covers an area of 22 acres (8.9 hectares) and is oval in shape and hence the name Oval Maidan. It is a recreational ground with cricket and football being the most popular sports. The ground is also used by morning and evening walkers. The park is maintained by the Oval-Cooperage Residents Association, and all sorts of functions, picnics and political rallies are banned in the park. The park has been fenced off and a jogging track added along the inner periphery. A paved lane cut through the diameter of the ground to facilitate a smoother thoroughfare. On the northern side of the Oval Maidan lies the Western Railway Office. The eastern side is flanked by the Old Secretariat Building, Rajabai Clock Tower of Mumbai University and the Bombay High Court. The eastern side of the Oval Maidan is lined with a series of Art Deco buildings.
Learn
[edit | edit source]- 1 Max Mueller Bhavan Mumbai (Goethe-Institut), 159, Mahatma Gandhi Road (within Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya), ☏ +91 91674 03569. 9AM-6PM (closed Sa, Su). The German language school in Mumbai, promoting the study of German and encouraging international cultural exchange and relations.
Buy
[edit | edit source]Bookshops
[edit | edit source]- 1 Strand Book Stall, Sayed Abdullah Brevil Rd, Borabazar Precinct, Ballard Estate, ☏ +91 22661994, [email protected]. Daily? 10AM-8PM. Many books of all types, reliable bookseller. Warning: not to be confused with the (poor) Modern Book Stall, on Sir Pheroze Shah Mehta Road just nearby, with has very few books, mainly second-hand.
- 2 Mozeb Books, Podar Chambers, S.A. Brevli Rd, Fort, ☏ +91 22822660273, [email protected]. Wide choice of books on architecture, interior designing, and stained glass. Amazing place with qualified booksellers. Categories: architectural monographs, architectural rendering & competition, architectural theory, architecture, architecture & interiors of commercial spaces, design books and so on. Publishers from Actar to Wiley, including Arquitectos Mexicanos, Dover, El Croquis, Rizzoli, Shotenkenchiku Sha, Schiffer and many others.
- 3 Wayword & Wise, Strategic House, 44 Mint Rd, Fort, ☏ +91 2266349946, [email protected]. Very good bookseller; has new releases and classics. Literature, non-fiction, crime, gardening, arts and so on. Could be located in any English-speaking country. But offers a good choice of local literature.
- 4 Sterling Book House, 181, Dr. Dadabai Naoroji Rd, Fort (In front of D Sukhadwala Road), ☏ +91 22-22612521, [email protected]. Many scientific books in this little shop. All disciplines covered. Reliable vendors, the catalogue is displayed on the website, updated daily.
- 5 Computer Bookshop, Dr. Dadabai Naoroji Rd, Fort (close to the corner of D Sukhadwala Road). Reliable bookseller for computing. All aspects of computing are covered, many publishers here, Packt and O'Reilly being the prominent ones.
- 6 Kitab Khana, Somaiya Bhavan, Ground Floor, 45/47 Mahatma Gandhi Rd, Fort, ☏ +91 22 61702276, [email protected]. Very good bookshop with a large selection of Indian and international literature in English. Some Hindi books. Non-fiction also, plus a children's corner.
Markets
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- 7 Crawford Market (क्रॉफर्ड मार्केट Krôpharḍ Markeṭ), Lokmanya Tilak Marg, Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus Area (within 10 minutes walking distance north from CSMT, west of the J.J. flyover at a busy intersection.). Earlier it was the major wholesale trading market for fruits & vegetables. Now it houses shops selling imported items such as food, cosmetics, household and gift items. The market was designed by British architect William Emerson, in Norman and Flemish architectural styles. The friezes on the outside entrance depicting Indian farmers, and the stone fountains inside, were designed by Lockwood Kipling, father of novelist Rudyard Kipling. The market covers an area of 22,471 m², of which 5,515 m² is occupied by the building itself. The structure was built using coarse buff-coloured Kurla stone, with Redstone from Bassein. It has a 15 m high skylight awning designed to allow the sunlight to brighten up the marketplace.
- 8 Fashion Street, MG Rd, Fort (walk towards Flora Fountain from suburban: Churchgate Western , make a left turn and it's a block down). Popular place to buy cheap clothes. Bargaining/haggling skills are a must. Offer to pay 1/4 of the asking price or less and then work upwards. These are street shops lined alongside the road starting from the VSNL building. Decent stuff at good prices, bargains for clothes and accessories. Best place in Mumbai to buy cheap clothes. Bargaining/haggling skills are a must if you want to shop here! Offer to pay 1/4 of the asking price or less and then work your way upwards. Look around the first few shops and try to estimate the going price. If you decide to walk away (during a negotiation), sometimes the vendor will try to hail you back. Don't go back to the same vendor, he will not discount it to the price you asked and might try to humiliate you. Just walk away, and you will find another shop with the same merchandise down the street.
- 9 Manish Market, Ramabai Ambedkar Marg, (ahead of Crawford Market on the other side of JJ flyover). Very famous for its electronic goods, especially cell phones. Shops usually deal in grey goods though.
- 10 Musafir Khana, Musafir Khana Rd.? (ahead of Crawford Market on the other side of JJ flyover, next to Manish Market). Shops here deal in imported goods and electronics.
Eat
[edit | edit source]Budget
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- 1 Aram Vada Pav, Capitol Cinema Building, 126, Dr Dadabhai Naoroji Rd (Across road from CSMT). M-Sa 8:30AM-9:30PM. This hole in the wall is likely Mumbai's most famous purveyor of vada pav, the classic Mumbai snack of a deep-fried potato croquette in a fluffy bun. There's a small restaurant as well, but most people opt for takeaway.
- Ayubs (near Horniman Circle). Very similar to Bademiyan. Great kababs, especially the Tangri Kabab. Open until late and extremely popular among clubbers. It's a street joint and the only place to sit down and eat is your car.
- 2 Bademiya Kebab Restaurant, 7,8 & 9, Botawala Building, Horniman Circle, Kala Ghoda, ☏ +91 22 22655657. Eat on the road or in your car. Open until the early hours of the morning. The rolls are a favourite.
- 3 Britannia and Co, Sprott Road, Ballard Estate, Fort (next to New Custom House.), ☏ +91 22-2261-5264. 10AM-3:30PM. This rundown restaurant, run by a partnership of geriatric brothers (by the name Kohinoor), is a South Mumbai institution, having been in existence since 1923. The signature dish is berry pulav, the recipe for which the late Mrs. Kohinoor found in Teheran while she was working with Iranian Airways. The Parsi favourite dhansak is of course available and tastes great. Try the caramel custard for dessert. The waiter may con you into trying the Raspberry soda. The first sip is sweet, but the whole bottle is cloying. ₹400 will buy you a good lunch.
- 4 Cafe Samovar, Inside Jehangir Art Gallery, Kala Ghoda. A favourite with the Mumbai art community, serving vegetarian and non-vegetarian Indian food.
- Kelkar Vishranti Gruha, D.N.Road (near CSMT). One of the oldest restaurants in Mumbai, with authentic Marathi cuisine.
- 5 Pancham Puriwala (opposite GPO or CSMT). Serve the best puris as the same implies with some side dishes. Not the greatest in ambience, but a very good hole-in-the-wall restaurant around here.
Mid-range
[edit | edit source]- 6 Chetana Vegetarian Restaurant, Kala Ghoda, K Dubash Marg, ☏ +91 22 2288 1159. A great Gujarati and Rajasthani food restaurant. Service is ok, the atmosphere is decent. They also serve cocktails and beer. ₹450 for two.
- 7 Chetana Vegetarian Restaurant, Kala Ghoda, K Dubash Marg, ☏ +91 22 2288 1159. A great Gujarati and Rajasthani food restaurant. Service is OK, the atmosphere is decent. They also serve cocktails and beer. ₹450 for two.
- 8 Fountain Sizzlers, 57, Mahatma Gandhi Road (Near Flora Fountain), ☏ +91 22 40647777. As the name suggests, it is famous for its sizzlers, especially among the office crowd.
- Rajdhani (near Crawford Market). Serves excellent unlimited thalis. Strictly vegetarian. It has been rated one of the best places to eat in Mumbai. ₹250.
- Royal China (near CSMT). Good Chinese food and a special Dim-sum menu.
- 9 Trishna, Kala Ghoda, ☏ +91 92062 60260. Famous for its seafood and patronised by locals, as well as expats.
Splurge
[edit | edit source]- Fenix, The Oberoi, Marine Drive. Located in the lobby of The Oberoi hotel, it serves a selection of pan-Asian cuisine. Excellent breakfast standards both Indian and Western with brunch served on the weekend. Breakfast: ₹1500 pp, Dinner: ₹4000 for two.
- Indigo (located in a bylane of Colaba behind the Taj hotel). This is an upscale restaurant serving global food. It also has a bar that gets lively after 9PM. Fantastic Sunday brunch (food+drinks+live music) at about ₹2000.
- Khyber, Kala Ghoda. Nice Indian food at steep prices.
- The Sassy Spoon (Express Towers behind Air India building). A mix of cuisine including Indian, Asian, and Continental dishes. Eclectic decor. Bakery associated with the restaurant next door. Dinner: ₹4000 for two with drinks.
Drink
[edit | edit source]Sleep
[edit | edit source]| This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room: | |
| Budget | Under ₹5,000 |
| Mid-range | ₹5,000 to ₹10,000 |
| Splurge | Over ₹10,000 |
Budget
[edit | edit source]- 1 Hotel Lawrence, ITTS House, 33 Saibaba Rd, ☏ +91 22 2284 3618. Check-out: noon. Family-owned, this hotel - the only hotel in Kala Ghoda - offers only basic amenities (no Wi-Fi, shared bathroom, and the only place to charge your phone is in the manager's secure office). The rooms are clean and in good shape, and the manager and his mother are always friendly to chat with. ₹Single, ₹1000 Double.
- Sheel Hotel, 23 Manohardas St (immediately south of CSMT's south exit; exit the south exit of CSMT, before you cross Walchand Hirachand Marg, look up and you should see a sign for this hotel), ☏ +91 22 22615465. Check-in: 10AM, check-out: 10AM. This is likely to be the cheapest hotel in Mumbai and offers a lot to complain about. The bathrooms are non-flush squat style, and the showers suck, but the price is right and the sheets are clean. This is a particularly good option given its extreme proximity to CSMT, saving you the hassle of a taxi ride, putting you in the spectacular Fort area, and sparing you from the lameness of Colaba. Dirty rooms, dirty sheets, mice. ₹900.
- 2 Ship Hotel, 3 Rd Floor, Bharti Bhavan (walk out CSMT's south exit, turn left until you hit PD Mello road, it's on PD Mello road's east side, immediately east of CSMT), ☏ +91 22 22617613. Check-in: 9AM, check-out: 9AM. One of the, if not "the", cheapest places in Mumbai. The cheap prices make it extremely popular with Indian businessmen and tourists. Arrive at 9AM for the best chance to bag a room, but it's extremely close to CSMT make it easy to check first when you get off the train, if it's full, the surrounding Fort area (between CSMT and Colaba) is a much better option to find cheap hotels instead of Colaba. ₹140 for a basic dorm bed, ₹180 for A/C Dorm Bed, ₹220 for a Single (no A/C, Shared Bathroom), and ₹330 for a double (non A/C) (non A/C) Shared Bathroom.
Mid-range
[edit | edit source]- 3 Grand Hotel, 17, Shri S.R. Marg, Ballard Estate, ☏ +91 22 6658 0500. Check-in: 2PM, check-out: noon. ₹7,500-9,000.

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