Portarlington

Portarlington is a town in County Laois, with a population of 9300 in 2022. Locally it's referred to as "Port", but so too is nearby Portlaoise, so that term isn't used here. The River Barrow flows through town and forms the county boundary, with most of Portarlington east in County Laois, but a section of it west in County Offaly.

"Port" in this context is "Fort", as it was land confiscated after the rebellion of 1641 and awarded to Baron Arlington. His plantation colony flopped, so it was re-settled by French Huguenots, and French was used in school lessons and church services as late as 1820.

From Dublin Heuston, commuter trains run hourly and take an hour, with stops at Dublin Park West & Cherry Orchard, Clondalkin, Adamstown, Hazelhatch & Celbridge, Sallins (for Naas), Newbridge, Kildare and Monasterevin, and they continue to Portlaoise. Inter-city trains take 45 min nonstop and continue to Tullamore, Clara and Athlone, where they branch either to Athenry and Galway or to Roscommon, Castlebar and Westport. For trains to Limerick and Cork, change at Monasterevin. See Irish Rail for timetables, fares and online tickets.

53.1462-7.18151 Portarlington railway station is 1 km south of town centre.

By road from Dublin follow N7 / M7 to Monasterevin (junction 14) then R445 / R424 west.

The direct bus from Dublin has been axed. Take the Dublin Coach towards Portlaoise and change at Monasterevin. Local Link Bus 806 runs from there every two hours daily, taking 30 min to Portarlington.

Slieve Bloom Coach 829 runs three times M-F from Portlaoise to Portarlington and Tullamore.

Coach 827 runs three times M-F from Mountmellick to Portarlington and Portlaoise.

By boat the nearest you can get is Monasterevin on the Grand Canal / Barrow Navigation, as the spur canal to Portarlington and Mountmellick closed in 1960. The main canal and some of its branches have been restored for leisure boating but there are no plans to re-open this spur.

The town is compact, but you need wheels for outlying sights.

Taxis are DB Cabs (+353 86 405 9077), Sky Cab (+353 89 940 4476) and Samz (+353 85 266 4990).

Lea Prebook is a minibus company for group transport, tours, events and the like.

• 53.162-7.191 Market Square is the town centre, with 18th- and 19th-century low-rise in the streets around. The Huguenot tradition is reflected in the name French Church Street, referring to St Paul's (Church of Ireland). Services were held in French in its predecessor into the 1820s, but the present church was built over the site in 1851. St Michael's is the Roman Catholic church, west on Patrick St.
• 53.144-7.1882 Carrick Wood is on a small hill south side of town. Stroll up from the car park to The Spire, an 18th-century folly probably made from the ruin of a windmill. The town waterworks are adjacent.
• 53.1562-7.14743 Lea Castle is a ruin along R420 four km east of town. It was built in fits and starts over the 13th century, replacing a timber and earthwork structure, and in its pomp was a mighty four-towered donjon or keep with an inner and outer moat and bawn wall. But it was wrecked on multiple occasions, and was already in a sorry state when Cromwell's troops came by in 1650 and wrecked it some more just to keep their hands in. One last tenant lived here until 1737. It’s on a farm, no public access, though the farmer may allow you to walk up to it.
• 53.1072-7.19694 Emo Court, Emo R32 C44V, ☏ +353 57 862 6573. House Apr-Oct daily 9AM-5PM, gardens year-round 8:30AM-dusk. Grand neo-classical mansion, designed by Gandon in 1790 but construction took another 70 years. Then the Earls of Portarlington could enjoy it and entertain in glittering style, but these were the last halcyon days of the Protestant ascendancy. Arms Quarterly 1st & 4th, Barry nebuly of six Argent and Gules, over all a Bend engrailed Azure... (and so on, at some length) somehow didn't enthral an independent Republic of Ireland. The family left, and the house lay empty until 1930, then was a Jesuit college until 1969. Not wishing to sully their pious gaze with Grecian nymphs, the Jesuits chucked the statues in the lake. The estate was bought by Major Cholmeley Harrison, who restored the house, fished out the statues and opened the gardens to the public. House and gardens are now curated by the Office of Public Works, you visit the house by guided tour. Adult €8, conc €6, child €4.  (updated Oct 2026)
• 53.182-7.1895 Derryounce Lake was a bog where peat was commercially extracted to burn at Portarlington power station. It caused pollution, extraction ceased in 1980, and the cutaway bog flooded to create Lough Lurgan, now a wetland wildlife haven. Derryounce was created by digging through the peat to a layer of sand, which was heaped up to form an inland beach. There are trails and boardwalks.

• Portarlington Leisure Centre has a pool, gym and fitness classes. It’s on Link Rd R32 AE68 and you can pay as you go.
• Golf: Portarlington Golf Club is 2 km west of town on R423. Blue tees 5941 m, par 71.

Heritage Hotel also has a golf course. See Portlaoise for Heath GC south of Emo Court.

• There's a Centra on Main St, SuperValu in the Arlington Centre, and Aldi and Lidl further south.

• Eddie’s Hot Pot, Market Square R32 A030, ☏ +353 85 860 8119. M & W 9AM-3PM, Th-Sa 9AM-6PM, Su noon-6PM. Family-friendly restaurant, big portions. (updated Oct 2026)
• French Quarter Cafe, 7 French Church Street R32 DP20. W-Sa 9:30AM-3PM, Su 9:30AM-1PM. Good simple food. (updated Oct 2026)
• Great India, French Church St R32 VW02, ☏ +353 57 864 3178. W-M 5-11PM. Good Indian choice, tasty and not too heavy. (updated Oct 2026)
• Oriental New Star, Main St R32 W6D3, ☏ +353 57 864 0799. Daily 4-11:30PM. Decent Chinese, but portions small. (updated Oct 2026)
• The Goodyear at Main St R32 Y6AH is now just a takeaway, open daily 4:30PM-midnight.
• Via Italia is a café at Main St R32 TR25, open Tu-Th 9AM-5PM, F-Su 10AM-9PM.
• O'Dea's, Upper Main St R32 ECX3, ☏ +353 57 862 3281. W-F 5-11:30PM, Sa 3-11:30PM, Su 12:30-11PM. Pub and bistro with live music Saturdays. (updated Oct 2026)

• Whelan’s After Dark, Market Square R32 CY2D, ☏ +353 57 862 3101. Lively pub with TV sport, pub grub and live music. (updated Oct 2026)
• Barrow Lodge is on French Church St R32 F298.
• Burbages, Main St R32 N8CV. Good atmosphere and Guinness. (updated Oct 2026)
• Pint of Port (O'Donoghue's), Main St R32 K2RA, ☏ +353 57 860 5320. Su-F 3:30-11:30PM, Sa 2PM-12:30AM. Trad pub with TV sport. (updated Oct 2026)
• Anvil Inn, Main St R32 X9KX, ☏ +353 57 862 3131. Daily 10AM-11:30PM. Cosy friendly pub, may have food. (updated Oct 2026)
• Finlay's, 11 Bracklone St R32 V594, ☏ +353 87 657 7759. W-Su 5PM-midnight. Trad pub with decent Guinness. (updated Oct 2026)
• Railway Bar, Station Rd R32 PD81, ☏ +353 87 249 6750. Su-Th noon-11:30PM, F Sa noon-12:30AM. Friendly place, worth a visit even if you're not waiting on a train. (updated Oct 2026)

• 53.1455-7.12661 Oak House, Kilmullen, Portarlington R32 RN01, ☏ +353 87 755 9647. Pleasant welcoming guesthouse. B&B double €120.  (updated Oct 2026)
• 53.1336-7.15172 The Heritage, Killenard, Portarlington R32 PW10, ☏ +353 57 869 5000. Plush modern hotel with spa and golf, gets great reviews for comfort and service. B&B double €200.  (updated Oct 2026)
• 53.098-7.07843 The Yoke, Ballybrittas R32 D2E9, ☏ +353 86 259 6618. Friendly smart guesthouse. B&B double €100.  (updated Oct 2026)

As of Oct 2026, Portarlington and its approach roads have 5G from all Irish carriers.

• Tullamore has two famous distilleries and is on the Grand Canal.
• Kildare is in horse-rearing country, near Curragh racecourse.
• Athy is on the navigable River Barrow.
• Slieve Bloom Mountains rise west of Portlaoise.