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Old Delhi (पुरानी दिल्ली Purānī Dillī) is the Mughal-era walled city that comprises the historic core of Delhi. Constructed by the fifth Mughal ruler Shah Jahan as Shahjahanabad (शाहजहानाबाद Śāhjahānābād), Old Delhi is centred around the Red Fort and the Jama Masjid, as well as Chandni Chowk, a paradise for street food lovers. It is also a favourite hunting place for shoppers.
Get in
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Map of Old Delhi
By train
[edit | edit source]- 1 Delhi Junction NR . The sole station serving Old Delhi, and the terminal of many Delhi-bound express trains. See the main listing.
By bus
[edit | edit source]- 2 ISBT, Kashmere Gate (Interstate Bus Terminus). The major bus terminal in Delhi. It connects the city to the rest of India. Old Delhi is also connected to the rest of the city by Delhi Transport Corporation (DTC) buses. Private Blue Line buses (orange) also connects Old Delhi to the rest of the city.
Delhi Transport Corporation (DTC) operates both air conditioned and non air conditioned buses in Old Delhi. Blue-line (orange) private buses are also in operation.
By metro
[edit | edit source]The 1 , 2 and 6 lines run over Central Delhi, meeting at 3 Kashmere Gate provding easy access to most of the tourist spots.
By rickshaw
[edit | edit source]There are three types of rickshaws in Central Delhi, auto-rickshaws, cycle rickshaws and electric rickshaws.
Auto rickshaws are good for shorter trips. They don't run on meters and prices are fixed before the trip. Fares are generally over quoted and needs to negotiated before the trips begins.
Cycle rickshaws and electric rickshaws are ideal for very short trips. Prices needs to be negotiated and fixed before the trips start.
See
[edit | edit source]- 1 Yamuna Ghat. Enjoy the scene of ritual bathing and sunset on the Yamuna River, which is considered sacred to Hindus along with the Ganges.
Red Fort
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- 2 Red Fort (लाल क़िला Lāl Qilā) (metro: Lal Quila 6 ). One of Delhi's top tourist sights and listed as a
UNESCO World Heritage Site. A brilliant red sandstone fort was built by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan (who also built the Taj Mahal) as his ruling palace. Completed in 1648, the years since have not treated the buildings kindly: the rooms have long since been stripped of all objects, the marble inlays are long gone and quite a few buildings are off-limits. Still, the scale remains imposing and the gardens are kept lush and green even in midwinter.
The only open entrances are the Lahore Gate on the west side, and the Delhi Gate on the southern side. Security in and around the Fort is very heavy, as it was the scene of a terrorist attack in 2000 that killed three people. Bags are allowed, but they'll be X-rayed and you'll be patted down. Tickets cost ₹30/500 for Indians/foreigners, photography is free, and video cameras ₹25 extra. Tickets can be bought online at the official Archaeological Survey of India website. Open sunrise to sunset daily except Monday. Allow for 3-4 hours in your schedule in case of long weekends and national holidays as a lot of tourists flock around then. The most scenic way of reaching the fort is to take the metro to Chawri Bazaar 2 and then a cycle-rickshaw through the incredibly packed bazaar to the Fort (price negotiable, aim for ₹20), even though Lal Quila 6 is a better option, as the latter bypasses the bazaar entirely.
The fort has a light and sound show (₹50) in the evenings from 7:30-9PM, depending on the season.
Be careful buying tickets at the booth, as the ticket sellers will attempt to shortchange you. Try to have a small bill. Due to enhanced security, the parking can be a bit tricky as the walk from the now distanced away parking at nearby alternative slots is quite a bit. The congested traffic makes crossing the road even trickier.
The Red Fort buildings include:
- 3 Chhatta Chowk (Covered Bazaar). True to the name, this is a covered bazaar between the gate and the fort itself, now filled with souvenir hawkers.
- Daawat Khana. A minor palace, this was originally the residence of a prince, but it was converted into a teahouse by the British, a function it continues today. It also has the cleanest toilets around. Basic meals around ₹60, drinks ₹10-20.
- 4 Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audience). This building separates the outer court from the inner court and has a marble platform for the emperor's throne.
- 5 Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience). Built completely of marble, this is where the emperor received special visitors.
- 6 Hayat Bakhsh Bagh (Life-Bestowing Garden). Once a grand garden full of fountains and streams, now sadly all dry, only dry channels and acres of green grass remain. Near here will you find the Sawan Pavilion.
- 7 Hira Mahal (Diamond Palace).
- 8 Khas Mahal (Private Palace). The emperor's main residence. The octagonal Mussaman Burj tower looks out toward the Yamuna River and is where the Emperor used to appear before the public each morning.
- 9 Moti Masjid (Pearl Mosque).
- 10 Mumtaz Mahal (मुमताज़ महल / ممتاز محل Mumtāz Mahal, Jewel Palace). Contained six apartments for emperor's harem. Now used as a museum of court textiles, carpets, weapons, etc.
- 11 Rang Mahal (Colour Palace). The residence of the emperor's main wife.
- Swatantra Sangram Museum (Museum of the Independence Movement). To the left after the Chhatta Chowk, this is a reasonably well-presented museum on the history of independence activism in India, starting from the 1857 rebellion all the way to Mahatma Gandhi.
- 12 Salimgarh Fort. A fort built in 1546 by Salim Shah Suri, the son of Sher Shah Suri. At the time, the Mughal Empire had been temporarily overthrown, as Sher Shah Suri defeated Mughal emperor Humayun and established the rule of the Sur Empire rule in Delhi. The Surid dynasty continued until 1555, when Humayun regained control by defeating Sikandar Suri, the last ruler of the dynasty.
Chandni Chowk
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Chandni Chowk (चाँदनी चौक Cāndnī Cauk), the "Moonlight Square", is one of Delhi's oldest bazaars, famous for its street food and snacks and crammed with 1,600 shops, countless havelis (mansions) in various states of repair, rickshaws, donkey carts and a permanent crush of humanity. Half-heartedly pedestrianised in 2021 (cars and motorcycles are meant to be banned between 9 AM and 9 PM, although enforcement is variable), a stroll or cycle rickshaw ride through the swirling chaos is a uniquely Indian experience.
The Chandni Chowk area is served by the Chandni Chowk 2 metro station.
- Bhai Mati Das Museum, 1936, HC Sen Marg, Bhagirath Palace.
- 13 Central Baptist Church.
- 14 Delhi Town Hall. It was the seat of the Municipal Corporation of Delhi (MCD) from 1866 till late 2009, when offices shifted to a new building at Minto Road. There used to be a clock tower near the town hall till the 1950s when it was demolished.
- 15 Fatehpuri Masjid. Fathepuri Masjid stands at the very western end of the Chandni Chowk. Fatehpuri Masjid was built in 1650 by Fatehpuri Begum, one of Emperor Shah Jahan's wives who was from Fatehpur Sikri. After the revolt of 1857, the Muslims were driven out of the city and the mosques became functionless. Several of them were auctioned out including the Fathepuri Masjid. Rai Lala Chunnamal purchased the mosque at a staggering sum of Rs. 19,000 Rai Lala Chunnamal, whose descendants still live in the Chunnamal haveli in Chandni Chowk, made a fortune during the revolt of 1857 by supplying provisions to the British. Strangely the mosque was not demolished and Rai Lala Chunnamal kept it under lock and key. During the first durbar of Delhi in 1877, the prohibition against Muslims entering (or living in) Delhi was lifted. The mosque was acquired by the British and made available to Muslims for prayers. Lala Chunnilal's family received an estate of four villages in exchange for the mosque. The mosque is built using red sandstone and has a fluted dome with mahapadma and kalash on the top. Flanked by minarets, the mosque has a traditional design with the prayer hall having seven-arched openings.
- 16 Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib. An important Sikh place of worship. Built on the spot where their ninth guru, Guru Tegh Bahadur, was beheaded on the orders of the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb. The trunk of the tree beneath which the head of the Guru was severed and the well used by him for taking a bath during his prison term has been preserved in the shrine. The Sikh regiment of the Indian army salutes the Sis Ganj Gurudwara after saluting the president of India since 1979, the only instance of saluting twice in the Republic Day parade by a regiment of the Indian army. The Gurudwara came up in 1783. However, due to the volatile political climate in the coming century, the site alternated between being a mosque and a gurudwara. The dispute was finally settled in 1930 when the case was settled in favour of the Sikhs. The Sikhs celebrated their victory by adding gold gild to the domes. It is an oasis of calm in the chaos of Old Delhi's Chandni Chowk. You will need to cover your head (scarves provided for free) and stash your shoes in the shoe storage run by volunteers (also free).
- 17 Sunehri Masjid (Golden Mosque). An 18th-century mosque built by Mughal noble Roshan-ud-Daula, during the reign of emperor Muhammad Shah.
Jama Masjid
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- 18 Jama Masjid (जामा मस्जिद Jāmā Masjid) (Opposite the Red Fort; metro: Jama Masjid 6 , Chawri Bazaar 2 ). 7AM-sunset, tourists are not allowed in from 12:15PM-1:45PM or in the half-hour before sunset.. The largest mosque in India and a must-see while in Delhi. Beware of dishonest guides who will try to convince you that a tour guide is mandatory and is included in the ₹200 camera fee; they will give you an extremely hurried "tour" of the mosque and then demand a further payment of ₹200-300 for the tour. You can climb to the top of the minaret for ₹100 (locals maybe ₹20). The climb is steep, dark and somewhat claustrophobic, but you'll get great views over the complex and the city. You'll need to cover up your shoulders and legs (scarves and lungis available for rental - about ₹10), and take off your shoes (expect to tip the shoe minder, ₹5 is plenty, or carry your shoes with you in your own bag). Pictures should not be taken during prayer hours. If you're going to sit down don't look too comfortable. Certainly don't eat or become too engrossed in any reading material you may be carrying, the rule is that non-Muslims must make their visits brief and guards will usher along visitors who linger. Entry is officially free, although if you have a camera with you (even if deep in your bag) the aggressive "guards" will not let you go in without paying the ₹300 fee (this includes the ₹100 minar climb), and this includes camera phones. If you just walk in they will grab you and "carry" you out.
- 19 Razia Sultana's Tomb, Sitaram Bazar (The surrounding area is called Pahari Bhojla. Turkman Gate is the nearest landmark (North of it).). 8:30AM - 6PM. Raziya Sultana was the only women ruler of Delhi (Reign 1236 - 40). The grave of Razia is located at Mohalla Bulbuli Khana near Turkman Gate in Old Delhi. The tomb was built by Razia's half brother Bahram. The dome of the tomb has long collapsed. The tomb houses two graves exposed to the open sky. The said grave is said to be of Razia;s sister Shazia. Sadly the area round the grave is heavily encroached upon and is approachable by a narrow winding lane.
Gates
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The gates of Old Delhi were parts of a defensive mechanism set up by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan. Although the walls were later demolished and replaced by commercial buildings and residential complexes, many of the gates still exist.
- 20 Delhi Gate (metro: Delhi Gate 6 ). The southern gate that now acts as the entrance to Old Delhi from New Delhi.
- 21 Turkman Gate, Jawaharlal Nehru Marg, Katra Chobey Lal (metro: Delhi Gate 6 ). This gate is named after Sufi saint Hazrat Shah Turkman Bayabani, at the southern edge of Old Delhi. The tomb of the saint dates back to 1240 and predates the gate by over three centuries. It has a square plan with high arched openings.
Ajmeri Gate
[edit | edit source]- 22 Ajmeri Gate. The southwestern gate built in 1644 with high arched openings, and one of the battlefields of the 1857 rebellion. The road through this gate leads to Ajmer in Rajasthan, hence the name. A lovely park surrounds the gate.
- 23 Anglo-Arabic Senior Secondary School (Madrasa Ghaziuddin Khan). The oldest school compound in Delhi, established in 1696 by Ghaziuddin Khan, a general of Mughal emperor Aurangzeb. It was one of three major Islamic schools (or madrasas) during the reign of Aurangzeb's successor Bahadur Shah I, and was funded privately. In 1803, the British took control of Delhi from the Marathas, and they found that the school was in use as a Maratha stronghold near Ajmeri Gate. So, the British initially considered destroying it, but later decided to incorporate it as a bastion. The school compound was repaired in 1824, and a government oriental college named Delhi College was established in 1825. The college was relocated in 1849, and the present Anglo-Arabic School was established here in 1889. The school compound also contains a mosque, as well as the tomb of Ghaziuddin Khan, both examples of the late Mughal architecture in Delhi.
Kashmere Gate
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The locality around the Kashmiri Gate houses Delhi Junction railway station and the Interstate Bus Terminal (ISBT).
- 24 Kashmere Gate (कश्मीरी गेट Kaśmīrī Geṭ) (metro: Kashmere Gate 1 2 6 ; local: Delhi Junction Suburban ). The Kashmir-facing gate, and a site of a fierce battle during the 1857 rebellion. A sandstone memorial plaque mentions the names of the British Army soldiers (British and Indians) who died at the Kashmere Gate area during the recapture of Delhi by the British. The architecture consists of two arched passageways. The passageways are separated by two recessed arch one below the other. Both sides of the passageways have similar recesses arches.
- 25 St James' Church (Skinner's Church) (Near to Tikona Park). Worship at 8:30AM (Apr-Sept.): Worship at 9AM (winter). It is an Anglican church, built in 1836 by Colonel James Skinner. It is one of the oldest churches in the city. It was designed by Major Robert Smith. Construction started in 1826 and completed in 1936. The design follows the Renaissance Revival architectural style and the church is laid out on a cruciform plan. The church has three porticoed porches and is crowned with a central octagonal dome. The dome is topped with a copper ball topped with a cross. The interior of St James' Church are laid out with beautiful stained glass windows depicting the crucifixion, ascension of Christ and his resurrection. The church and the compound contains several graves.
- 26 Lothian Cemetery. Lothian Cemetery is southeast of St. James's Church and northwest of the Red Fort. It is the first Christian cemetery of Delhi. The cemetery operated between 1808 and 1867, and is now closed. It contains several graves of fallen British soldiers of the Revolt of 1857. The cemetery is said to be haunted.
- 27 Nili Chhatri Temple, Yamuna Bazar (On the banks of the Yamuna river). A Hindu temple is the tomb of Naubat Khan. Naubat Khan was a mansabdar (state official) during the time of Akbar. He built it during his lifetime in 1565. The tomb stands almost midway between Purana Qila and the tomb of Nizamuddin Auliya. It is built in an enclosure of several acres. Though the walls of the tomb are not extant in its entirety, some portions of it can still be seen in the surrounding area. But the gateway is relatively in good shape. At the entrance of the tomb is written the inscription, the letters of the inscription are of black marble inlaid on sandstone.
Museums
[edit | edit source]- 28 Ghalib ki Haveli (ग़ालिब की हवेली Ġālib kī Havelī), Gali Qasim Jan, Ballimaran, Chandni Chowk. The residence of the 19th-century Urdu poet Mirza Ghalib, now converted into a museum. It consists of artefacts related to the poet and his times, as well as his various hand-written poems besides his books. The museum also houses a life-size replica of the poet in a realistic setting with a hookah in his hand. Portraits of Ustaad Zauq, Abu Zafar, Momin, and other noted contemporaries of Ghalib can also be seen. The building itself is an example of Delhi's Mughal architecture.
- 29 Partition Museum, Dara Shikoh Library Cultural Hub, Lothian Rd. A museum dedicated to the people's history preceding and succeeding the Partition of India in 1947.
Places of worship
[edit | edit source]- 30 Sri Digambar Jain Lal Mandir (श्री दिगंबर जैन लाल मंदिर Śrī Digambar Jain Lāl Mandir) (metro: Lal Quila 6 ). The oldest Jain temple in Delhi, said to be built during the rule of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in 1656. The temple compound also has a bird hospital, which treats about 15,000 birds a year. There is also a bookstore in the complex where a wide range of books on Jainism is available, apart from unique curios and souvenirs related to the religion. You should take off your shoes and all other leather goods and hand it to the concerned person before you enter the temple complex.
Churches
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- 31 St Mary’s Catholic Church, SP Mukherjee Marg.
- 32 St Stephen's Church, Church Mission Rd. Built in 1862, by Anglican missionaries and Department of Public Works Engineers in the style of Italian Gothic architecture, highly influenced by the Romanesque style. Apart from its ornate walls and ceilings the Church has a unique feature which is the stained glass rose window which is exclusive in Delhi. The baroque styled church has arched windows which allow the sunlight to brighten the interiors. the interiors are well maintained with motifs, pictures, carvings and beautiful furniture. A series of fine plasters form arcade on either side lined with beautiful carvings columns made of sandstone.
Do
[edit | edit source]- 1 Mahatma Gandhi Park (Company Bagh), SP Mukherjee Marg (opposite Delhi Junction NR ). An early British-era garden, later rededicated in memory of Gandhi.
Buy
[edit | edit source]Bazaars and markets
[edit | edit source]- 1 Bhagirath Palace (भगीरथ पैलेस Bhagīrath Pailes). A popular wholesale market, selling lighting fixtures, electrical equipment and accessories.
- 2 Chandni Chowk, Chandni Chowk Rd, Chatta Pratap (next to Gurudwara Sis Ganj; metro: Chandni Chowk 2 ). This is the place to go for the full-on Indian experience of crowded, twisting alleys and tiny shops. The Fountain serves as a useful orientation point, and there are great Delhi-style snacks to be found in the vicinity too (see Eat).
- 3 Khari Baoli (Naya Bazaar) (local: Sadar Bazar Suburban , then walk 300 m E; metro: Chandni Chowk 2 , then walk 600 m SW), ☏ +91 98 73736846, fax: +98 71232629. Walking away from the Red Fort through Chandni Chowk will lead you here, the primary spice market in Old Delhi where most restaurants shop. Great place to buy individual spices (especially cardamom in bulk), masala chai mixes, and various masala mixes for vegetables, meat, fish, meat, chicken, and rice. Afghan Store (lot# 6553). Reputed to be the largest outdoor, pedestrianized shopping area in Delhi. Huge bargains on all sorts of Western and Indian wear. You can also get many reputed Western brands as export surplus if you are lucky. It is also a great market for fresh fruits, vegetables and household goods.
- 4 Meena Bazar (Eastward from Jama Masjid). a popular flea market with antiques (and not-so-antiques) — it's also known as Chor Bazar or "Thieves' Market," so hold onto your wallet and don't believe every claim you hear.
Books
[edit | edit source]- 5 Nai Sarak Bookshop Area (near Chawri Bazaar. Metro: Chawri Bazaar or Chandni Chowk (Yellow)). Narrow alleys where most publishers are based. This is very popular with students, particularly college students as course books are available here. They carry books in nearly all major languages spoken in India. Don't expect bargaining to work here as shopkeepers are too busy to argue. The shopkeepers do more business than any proper branded shop, selling at least 5,000 books daily. There are also many wholesalers. Very few books will be on display and you need to ask for a particular type of book as the variety of books sold is huge. Most books are original and the shopkeepers get very irritated if you question the book's genuineness. You can either take a rickshaw or walk. One of Delhi's oldest shopping complexes, you can find any book there after a day of searching. Also good areas for sightseeing.
- 6 Daryaganj and Asaf Ali Road. Similar to Nai Sarak, but a little better organised. Hindi Book Centre on Asaf Ali Rd is well known, stocks many Hindi books, and has a good website.
- Kamla Nagar Bookshops, F-Block (opposite to Birla Mills compound and on the road leading to Roop Nagar roundabout). This shop provides a range of books and stationery.
Eat
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You will find many shops in Chandni Chowk area. Paranthe Wali Gali is a street with shops selling parathas, where you will find many varieties of parathas.
- Haldiram's (1454/2 Chandni Chowk just west of the fountain and other outlets around town). This is a famous manufacturer of Indian snacks and sweets that has now gone global. This always-packed, two-story outlet in the heart of Chandni Chowk was its first in Delhi and dates back to 1924. The ground floor houses a vast array of sweet and sticky Indian confections, while the first floor has a popular vegetarian restaurant. This is a great place to try authentic and hygienic Delhi chaat and other Indian snack foods. Try the Raj Kachori, a mixture of different types of stuffing with sweetened yogurt and chutneys in an oversized hollow dough shell. All chaat is under ₹50, or you can get a full daily thali for ₹90. Choley Bhature, and the various Dosas are great options to try as well from their Southern Indian selection. Be sure to save room for dessert, as Haldiram's offers some of the best rasmalai, rasgullah, gulab jamun and other tasty delights in India.
- Kake Di Hatti (multiple locations around Delhi). Kake Di Hatti has a variety of naans along with North Indian curry vegetables, like Dal Makhani, Shahi Paneer etc. The naans are very big and usually one naan is enough for two people. One person can eat within ₹200 to ₹250.
- 1 Karim's, 16, Gali Kababian, Jama Masjid, ☏ +91 11 2326 9880. Jama Masjid, Gali Kababian. As you'd expect from a restaurant on Kebab Lane, the main dish is Mughal-style meat (mutton and chicken), served up since 1913. Is down a little alley just South of the Jama Masjid southern entrance (past the auto supplies market). Favourites include badam pasanda (boneless mutton cooked with yogurt, almonds and spices) and chicken noor jahan, but if you're really hungry, try Tandoori Bakra; an entire stuffed goat for ₹4,500, 24 hr notice and down payment is required. Some of the dishes have huge puddles of oil on top, which you're supposed to drain off before eating. Under ₹200 at the original; more at the branches.
- old kheer shop,chawri bazaar,chandni chowk offers famous indian dessert named kheer with great legacy taste,established in 1880,over 140 years ago.
- old famous jalebi wala, offers indian dessert named jalebi in chandni chowk,established over 100 years ago.
- old ameer mithai wala,near jama masjid is another banger sweet and dessert shop that offers wide range of menu options including spicy grilled indian sandwich called samosa and pakora,established over 100 years ago.
- pandit ji parathe wale,established over 140 years ago,offers paratha, an indian stuffed bread in chandni chowk.
- Ghantewala, a sweet shop established in 1790, serves delicious delights and offers wide range of sweets.
Drink
[edit | edit source]- 1 Aap ki Pasand, Sterling House, 15 Netaji Subhash Marg, Daryaganj (opposite the post office, walking distance from Red Fort), ☏ +91 11 23260373. Tea Shop, A great place to sample Indian chai and the exotic Darjeeling and Assam teas and buy tea in handcrafted fabric bags. Located in an old colonial era building, its teas have been savored by Bill Clinton, Gorbachov, Koizumi and are taken as official state gifts of India.
Sleep
[edit | edit source]| This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room: | |
| Budget | Under ₹4,000 |
| Mid-range | ₹4,000–8,000 |
| Splurge | Over ₹8,000 |
- 1 Hotel Broadway, 4/15A, Asaf Ali Road (across from Maulana Azad Medical College & Hospital, 5 minutes away from Connaught Place), ☏ +91 11 4366 3600, [email protected]. India's first hotel to get ISO 9002 certification. ₹1,800.
- 2 Tara Palace, 419 Old Cycle Market, Chandni Chowk (opposite Delhi Parade Ground, near the Red Fort), ☏ +91 11 2327 6465, fax: +91 11 2327 3555, [email protected]. Check-in: 1PM, check-out: noon. Friendly budget hotel, free breakfast and free airport pickup. From $40.
Connect
[edit | edit source]- 1 Delhi Public Library. A national depository library.