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Shuili (水里; also written as Shueli, and pronounced "SHWAY-lee" or "SWAY-lee") is a township in Nantou County. The area has a population of approximately 20,000 spread out over 107 km2.
Understand
[edit | edit source]Located along one route to Sun Moon Lake, Shuili is a town tucked among the foothills of Taiwan's central mountains along the historic JiJi railroad branch line. The town itself is known for its pottery industry, and as a nearby base for daytrips by car to Sun Moon Lake.
The outlying village of Checheng, located in a small river valley at the base of a major dam, known for its railroad and timber history. It originally served as a small-gauge railway transfer point for sugar cane exports during the Japanese era (early 1900s), and later gained importance for the Mingtan hydropower dam, for whose construction the modern full-size Jiji Line railway was built. Checheng fills up with domestic tourists each day, with the main activity being to wander the village enjoying the views, taking pictures with the modern wooden architecture (uncommon in Taiwan), shopping for boutique snacks, and perhaps learning a bit about the history.
Get in
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By train
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The town is accessible by 2 TRA train stations, both of them located along the Jiji Line, a small branch line starting from Ershui Station in Changhua County:
Trains run about ever hour and a half during the day into early evening. Note that Ershui, where the trains start, isn't served by most long-distance express trains, so you'll likely have to change to a local train at some point to get there from other regions of Taiwan.
By bus
[edit | edit source]Shuili Township is served by Yuanlin Bus, All Day Bus, Green Transit Bus, and Nantou Bus.
Get around
[edit | edit source]Between Shuili Downtown and Checheng
[edit | edit source]The Jiji Line trains (see "Get In" above) are also a convenient, fast, and cheap way to get between Shuili town proper and Checheng, if you time it right. Make sure to check the timetables. Cycling is also a reasonable way to get back and forth - they're only about 2km apart, and your accommodations might lend or rent bicycles - but be aware that the Shuili-to-Checheng direction is uphill. There are also buses running the route.
In Checheng
[edit | edit source]Checheng village is tiny and easily walkable.
See
[edit | edit source]Nature
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- 1 The Yushan National Park Headquarters (玉山國家公園管理), No. 515, Section 1, Zhongshan Road. Not within the National Park, but along the road on the way to it by car
- 2 Shuili River (水里溪). The river that runs through the middle of Shuili town and along the edge of Checheng village.
- 3 Xian Xiang Waterfall (仙鄉瀑布).
Architecture
[edit | edit source]- 4 Minghu Dam (明湖水壩). A concrete gravity dam on the Shuili River 7 km (4.3 mi) north of Shuili Township. Upon completion, it became Taiwan's first pumped-storage hydroelectricity power plant, officially named Takuan Power Plant.
- 5 Mingtan Dam (明潭壩). A dam that spans the Shuili River about 4 km downstream from the outlet of Sun Moon Lake. Good views of the bottom of the dam from Checheng village. The reservoir above it is walkable from Checheng Station, but you can't get close to the top of the dam.
- Stone Guanyin Suspension Bridge.
- 6 Daguan Tunnel (大觀古隧道). Built around 1919 as a railway tunnel and later converted into a road tunnel, this old brick tunnel was constructed to serve the Sun Moon Lake hydropower plant.
Museums
[edit | edit source]- 7 Checheng Logging Exhibition Hall (車埕木業展示館), No.110-2, Mincyuan Ln, ☏ +886 4 92775668. 09:00–17:00. Taiwan banned all logging of natural forests in 1991, so the timber industry is now a topic of historical interest.
- 8 Nitakayama Monument (新高登山口紀念碑), No. 33, Section 1, Shuixin Road. A boundry marker erected during the Japanese occupation of Taiwan.
Do
[edit | edit source]- 1 Shuili Snake Kiln Ceramics Cultural Park (水里蛇窯陶藝文化園區), No. 21, Lane 512, Section 1, Shuixin Rd, ☏ +886 4 92770967, snake@snakekiln.com.tw. Thu-Tue 08:00-17:00. A ceramic kiln in Dingkan Village built in 1927. The park now has a workshop where visitors can try their hand at pottery-making. NT$160.
Buy
[edit | edit source]- 1 Batongguan Mifumisa (八通關米富米莎), ☏ +886 4 92778058, payiun20230106@gmail.com. 09:00–17:00. Yushan National Park Souvenir Shop, Application Summit/Climbing Certificate
- 2 Checheng Old Street (車埕老街), Mincyuan Ln. Straight up the hill from the railyard and museums is the original Checheng village, now with food and other shopping along a central stairway, a bit like a lesser version of Jiufen.
Eat
[edit | edit source]Shuili Town
[edit | edit source]- 1 Ahchong Master Mixed Noodle (阿聰師什錦麵), No.105, Jhongjheng Rd.A, ☏ +886 4 92770265. 11:30–14:00. NT$90.
- 2 Shuili Mutton King (水里羊肉王), No.65, Sec. 2, Jhongshan Rd, ☏ +886 4 92770618. 11:00–14:30 17:00–19:30, closed Wed.
- 3 Gradma Noodle (阿婆慢慢麵), No.39, Market St. 11:00–15:00.
Night market
[edit | edit source]- 4 Shuili Night Market (水里夜市), No. 236, Section 1, Zhongshan Road. Thu 17:00-22:00.
Checheng
[edit | edit source]There are several tourist restaurants in Checheng, as well as smaller shops selling ice cream or local specialties. Be aware that many shops close in mid to late afternoon when the crowds of tourists leave. There are no convenience stores, and most of the snacks in shops are of the specialty gift variety.
Drink
[edit | edit source]- 1 Yiching Winery (奕青莊園), No.21, Futian Rd, ☏ +886 4 92821900, efarm@ms56.hinet.net. 09:30–17:00.
If you're looking for regular bottled beverages in Checheng, like sodas or sports drinks, either use the vending machines (which often sell out) or the fridge in the farmer's association gift shop near the railway.
Sleep
[edit | edit source]- 1 Fullon Hotels (福容徠旅), No.511, E. 3rd St, ☏ +886 4 92771888. Check-in: 16:00, check-out: 11:00.
- 2 ShuiliHeti coffee B&B (水里河堤咖啡民宿), No.110, E. 3rd St, ☏ +886 912977225, pojun.a68@msa.hinet.net. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 11:00.
Cope
[edit | edit source]Although this is considered a "mountain" destination due to its surroundings, it's not far above sea level, so don't expect it to be cooler than anywhere else in Taiwan's lowlands during the summertime.
There are no ATMS or convenience stores in Checheng village. The larger and fancier shops probably accept credit cards.
Go next
[edit | edit source]- Sun Moon Lake - farther into the mountains, this is one of Taiwan's top tourist attractions, but not accessible by train
- Jiji - the neighboring township west of Shuili, along the same train line; you likely passed it on your way here
- Yuchi