Skeleton Coast National Park

Skeleton Coast National Park is in Kunene, Namibia. Its attractions include a shipwreck at the South West Seal viewpoint, Huab lagoon and the collapsed oil drilling rig.

Namibia's Skeleton Coast continues to be a synonym for the horrors a sailor could face when his ship sank. Sharp rocks just underneath the water surface and thick fog during dusk and dawn along the entire coast posed a danger to ships, and when a shipwrecked crew did make it to land, they faced a belt of almost 100 km of desert, without any water or food sources and bare of any human settlement. All along the coast are the bodies of ships and there are many stories of sailors dying or only escaping the desert by accident.

Skeleton Coast National Park has its southern boundary at the Ugab river and stretches northward to the Namibian border with Angola. The further north you get the more desolate the area becomes.

The Skeleton Coast has long been feared by sailors because of its dense fog, strong offshore currents, heavy surf and almost waterless desert interior. Numerous ships were wrecked along the coast, and survivors who reached land often faced an even greater struggle crossing the Namib Desert. Shipwrecks, abandoned equipment, whale bones and the remains of early expeditions still form part of the region’s historical landscape. Archaeological sites and shelters also show that people used parts of this seemingly inhospitable coast long before modern exploration.

Skeleton Coast Park was first proclaimed in 1971 and assumed approximately its present form in 1973. It now extends for about 500 km from the Ugab River in the south to the Kunene River on the Angolan border, generally reaching around 30–40 km inland. Parts of the region had previously fallen within the former boundaries of Etosha National Park.

The park was established to conserve one of the world’s last extensive coastal wildernesses, including its fragile gravel plains, lichen fields, dune systems, ephemeral rivers, archaeological remains and habitats for desert-adapted wildlife. Access to its most remote northern sections remains tightly controlled, helping preserve the isolation that has defined the coast throughout its history.

Skeleton Coast National Park is largely a rocky and gravel-covered desert, broken by occasional belts of shifting sand dunes. Along the Atlantic are long sandy and pebble beaches, salt flats and low coastal hummocks, while farther inland the terrain rises into barren plains, volcanic hills, rugged mountain ranges and deeply cut canyons with richly coloured rock walls.

Several normally dry rivers—including the Ugab, Uniab, Hoanib and Hoarusib—cross the desert toward the ocean. Although they rarely carry surface water for long, their underground moisture supports narrow strips of vegetation and provides important movement corridors for elephants, giraffes, antelope and predators. The Hoarusib contains unusual eroded formations known as the Clay Castles, while the Uniab River forms a broad alluvial delta near Terrace Bay.

The northern end of the park reaches the permanently flowing Kunene River, whose mouth forms an important wetland in sharp contrast to the surrounding desert. Offshore, the cold Benguela marine system meets warmer tropical influences farther north, creating biologically rich coastal waters.

Much of the landscape is extraordinarily fragile. Tire tracks across gravel plains and lichen fields may remain visible for decades or even centuries, so visitors must remain on authorized roads and tracks.

The Skeleton Coast has an extremely dry desert climate and occupies one of the most arid regions of Africa south of the Sahara. The entire park receives a median annual rainfall of less than 100 mm, while much of it receives less than 50 mm. Rain is highly unpredictable and falls mainly between January and March, sometimes passing over large areas entirely.

Despite the lack of rain, the coast is frequently damp and overcast. The cold Benguela Current cools moist Atlantic air, producing low cloud and dense fog instead of rain. Fog occurs on roughly 125 days per year along the coast but becomes less frequent farther inland. This moisture is essential to lichens, insects and other organisms adapted to collecting water directly from fog.

Coastal temperatures are generally more moderate than the desert setting suggests, with conditions ranging broadly from about 7°C to 32°C. Mornings and evenings can feel cold because of fog, wind and the cold ocean, while inland valleys and gravel plains may become much hotter during the day.

Strong southerly winds are common. They drive the Benguela Current, carry sand inland and contribute to nutrient-rich ocean upwelling. Visitors should therefore prepare for cold fog, blowing sand, powerful winds and sudden changes in visibility even when no rain is expected.

The southern third of the park can be explored independently, but the area north of Terrace Bay is restricted and may only be visited with a certified tour guide that holds the relevant concession. Expect to pay the guide around N$1,000 per day for the privilege, even if they are just a passenger in your car.

There are two entry gates to the park, one at the southern border of the park at the Ugab River mouth and the other on the eastern border at Springbokwasser.

The main coastal road C34 starts at Swakopmund and follows the coast north up to the Ugab River mouth.

An alternative route is to drive west from Khorixas on the C39, and then enter the park on the D3245.

Since there are few roads in the park, most of the park is inaccessible even to 4x4s, which are the only type of land vehicle allowed in the park. In order to access the inner parts and northern coast, you must book a plane tour, some of which do land in the park.

You need a permit to enter the park. You can buy it only at a Ministry of Environment and Tourism office which are often co-located at outlets of Namibia Wildlife Resorts. There are offices in Windhoek (corner of Bismarck Street and Sam Nujoma Avenue) and Swakopmund (Uhland Street).

Entrance fee

It costs N$80 per person (Namibians N$30, neighbouring countries' residents N$60), children under 16 free, and N$10 per car to enter the park.

Camping fee

If you stay over at one of the government camp sites you must have a permit. Prices are higher than on private camp sites.

Angling fee

To catch fish in the Atlantic you need a fishing permit (N$50 pppd), even if you catch-and-release.

The major road in the area is a salt road. These are very slick if wet. Otherwise, they seem like bad pavement. To access the interior regions and the northern-most coast, you must rent a plane and fly out to those areas.

• The Skeleton Coast’s most unusual living attraction is its extensive lichen fields, sustained largely by moisture from the frequent coastal fog. More than 100 lichen species have been recorded in the park, sometimes forming surprisingly colorful patches across otherwise barren gravel plains. Examine them only from established roads and stopping places: lichens grow extremely slowly and can be destroyed by a single vehicle track or careless footsteps.
• Enjoy the seemingly endless undeveloped coastline, where sandy and pebble beaches meet dunes, dry river valleys, volcanic canyons and distant mountain ranges. The park extends for about 500 km, from the Ugab River in the south to the Kunene River on the Angolan border. Cold winds and dense fog created by the Benguela Current give the coast its stark and haunting appearance.
• Numerous shipwrecks and wreck remnants lie along the coast, reminders of vessels defeated by fog, powerful currents, heavy surf and an almost waterless desert shore. Some wrecks can be viewed from authorized routes or during guided excursions, while others lie in remote or restricted areas. Do not drive across unmarked terrain to reach them, as off-road tracks may remain visible in the desert for centuries.
• The park has recorded 306 bird species. Greater and lesser flamingos, Gray’s larks, Rüppell’s korhaans and lappet-faced vultures are among the notable species, while seabirds and other waterbirds gather near river mouths and coastal wetlands. The Kunene River mouth at the northern end of the park is an especially important wetland, although access to this remote sector is controlled.
• Wildlife is thinly distributed but can be especially memorable against the barren landscape. Depending on location and luck, visitors may see gemsbok, springbok, Hartmann’s mountain zebra, black-backed jackals, or marine animals such as Heaviside’s dolphins. Desert-adapted elephants, black rhinoceroses, lions and cheetahs inhabit the wider wilderness but are elusive and most likely to be encountered on guided excursions into remote river valleys.
• Around Terrace Bay and the Uniab River Delta, look for dunes, coastal birds, animal tracks and wildlife moving through the normally dry river system. Farther north, guided or fly-in excursions reveal increasingly isolated beaches, colorful canyon walls and landscapes almost untouched by permanent settlement.

The Skeleton Coast is considered one of Namibia’s finest surf-angling destinations. Terrace Bay is the principal base for fishing, with accommodation, fish-freezing facilities and access to remote beaches. Torra Bay is another popular angling retreat, but its campsite normally operates only during December and January. A valid fishing licence must be obtained before entering the park to fish, and visitors should confirm current catch limits and other regulations before setting out.

Explore the coast by vehicle, stopping where permitted to photograph the windswept beaches, dunes, fog banks and scattered remains of shipwrecks. The cold Benguela Current produces frequent sea fog, giving the landscape its famously bleak and mysterious atmosphere. Access to the northern wilderness and concession areas is restricted, so travel there must be arranged through an approved lodge or tour operator.

Around Terrace Bay, visitors can walk along the beach, climb nearby dunes for sunset views, or explore the Uniab River Delta. The delta and dry riverbeds offer opportunities to look for springbok, oryx, jackals, brown hyenas and desert-adapted elephants, although sightings are unpredictable and guided excursions are preferable in remote areas.

Birdwatching is rewarding around river mouths, coastal wetlands and desert plains. Flamingos, seabirds, raptors and desert specialists occur in the wider park, while the coastline may also provide sightings of seals, dolphins and other marine life.

The park is especially suited to landscape and wildlife photography. Early morning fog, afternoon light on the dunes and sunsets over the Atlantic create dramatic conditions, but sand, salt spray and wind can damage equipment, so carry protective covers and cleaning materials. Photography and game viewing are among the activities officially promoted for the park.

Shopping inside Skeleton Coast National Park is extremely limited. Visitors should purchase food, drinking water, medicines, fuel and other essentials in Swakopmund, Henties Bay, Khorixas or another large town before entering. The park is remote, distances are considerable and supplies cannot always be replaced along the route.

Terrace Bay Resort has a small kiosk selling basic drinks, snacks and limited necessities. Torra Bay Campsite operates a shop and filling station during its short summer season, but the selection should not be treated as sufficient for a fully self-catered trip.

Souvenir shopping is better done outside the park. Lodges and craft outlets elsewhere in northwestern Namibia may sell wildlife books, maps, locally produced crafts and Skeleton Coast-themed items. Carry some Namibian dollars for minor purchases, although card facilities may be available at established resorts.

Dining options are concentrated at Terrace Bay Resort, which has the park’s principal public restaurant. Meals are straightforward and designed for visitors staying in this isolated coastal environment. Because deliveries travel long distances, menus and fresh ingredients may be more limited than in Namibia’s towns.

Visitors staying at Torra Bay should plan to be largely self-sufficient. Bring enough food, cooking equipment and emergency provisions for the entire stay; the seasonal shop offers only limited supplies and there is no full-service restaurant listed among the campsite’s facilities.

Guests visiting the remote northern concession through an organized lodge or fly-in safari normally receive meals as part of their accommodation package. Day visitors should carry a packed lunch and enough additional food to cover delays, breakdowns or unexpected changes in weather.

Do not leave scraps or rubbish in the desert. Food waste can attract jackals, brown hyenas and other wildlife, while discarded material remains visible for many years in the dry environment.

Terrace Bay Resort has a bar, restaurant and kiosk serving water, soft drinks and alcoholic beverages. Torra Bay’s seasonal shop sells basic drinks, but choice may be limited.

Carry a generous supply of drinking water in the vehicle, even when travelling to established accommodation. Fog and cool ocean winds can disguise dehydration, and a breakdown may leave travelers far from assistance. Do not drink untreated water from coastal pools, riverbeds or other natural sources.

Tea, coffee, beer, wine and basic spirits may be available at Terrace Bay and at fully catered concession lodges. Alcohol should be saved until driving has finished for the day: gravel roads, fog, wildlife and long distances demand complete concentration.

Accommodation within the park is scarce and should be reserved before arrival. The Ministry of Environment and Tourism states that entry is tied to an accommodation booking and that advance reservations are essential for overnight visitors.

Terrace Bay Resort is the principal publicly accessible lodging inside the park. It stands on the Atlantic coast amid dunes and offers three beach chalets and twenty double rooms, together with a restaurant, bar and kiosk. It is particularly popular with anglers but also provides access to dune walks, birdwatching and the nearby Uniab River Delta.

Shipwreck Lodge is a remote luxury property in the Skeleton Coast’s central concession, between the Hoarusib and Hoanib river systems. Its shipwreck-inspired cabins stand among dunes overlooking the Atlantic. Access and activities must be arranged as part of a lodge package rather than attempted as an ordinary independent road trip.

Travelers not staying inside the park can find additional accommodation south of the boundary around Cape Cross, Henties Bay and Swakopmund, or inland toward Damaraland.

Torra Bay Campsite is the main seasonal camping option and is open only during December and January. It has 60 campsites, ablution facilities, a shop, a filling station and Wi-Fi. Water, electricity and shower charges may be payable separately, so confirm exactly what is included when booking.

The Ministry also notes seasonal camping at Terrace Bay, with advance booking essential. Campers should verify current availability directly with Namibia Wildlife Resorts because operating arrangements can change.

Bring a strong tent, warm bedding, wind protection, cooking equipment, food, water and rubbish bags. Although the surrounding land is desert, the coast can be cold, damp and extremely windy because of the Benguela Current and persistent fog.

Besides Torra Bay, there are a couple of temporarily wilderness camps that can be visted with an accredited guide only, such as Mowe Bay Bivouac, set north of a major seal colony and famous for brown hyenas, and Sarusas Springs Bivouac.

Independent backcountry or roadside camping is not permitted. Overnight stays must be at an authorized resort, campsite or specially arranged concession camp. The northern wilderness areas have controlled access and should be visited only through approved operators.

Do not attempt to sleep in a vehicle at an isolated beach or shipwreck site. Dense fog, soft sand, tides, wildlife and the absence of communications can turn a seemingly sheltered location into a serious emergency.

The most common risks posed to anyone travelling to this national park are exposure, the heat, and isolation. Always make sure that you are dressed appropriately, and have put on enough sunscreen on to last you for as long as you are in the park. Even though most of the park is not accessible by 4x4, the entirety of the park is virtually cut off from civilization, save some areas near the park borders. This means that you are on your own if your 4x4 breaks down, so be prepared in case of emergency. Other than threats imposed by nature and geography, there are no crimes against tourists committed in the park.

• Etosha National Park
• Ai-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park
• Namib-Naukluft National Park
• Swakopmund