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{{pagebanner|Paldiski_banner.jpg}} | {{pagebanner|Paldiski_banner.jpg}} | ||
''' | '''Paldiski''' is a port town (population: 3,500 in 2021) on the shore of Baltic Sea, in [[Harjumaa]] county in northwestern [[Estonia]]. Here the drab Soviet past meets the sea and the cliffs with wind power plants. | ||
==Understand== | ==Understand== | ||
[[ | [[File:Sadama street Paldiski Estonia.jpg|thumb|Houses along Sadama street from the Soviet era - you will see lots and lots of these]] | ||
Paldiski is on the Pakri peninsula stretching out into the Baltic Sea. As such the port rarely freezes over during winter (unlike Tallinn for instance). The [[Swedish Empire|Swedes]] were the first to discover this and established the settlement of Rågervik in the 14th century. After the Great Northern War in the early 18th century, present-day Estonia became [[Russian Empire|Russian]], and Peter the Great had a fortress built here. The settlement first functioned as a penal colony, though over the decades the port was developed and in 1762 the settlement was renamed ''Baltiiskiy Port'' (Валтийский Порт), whereas also the German name ''Baltischport'' was used as Baltic Germans held a high position in the Baltic commercial life, and the Estonians called the town ''Paldiski''. | |||
During [[Soviet Union|Soviet times]] and early years of independent Estonia, until up to 1994, the city was a “closed city”, i.e., off-limits to foreigners, non-resident Soviet citizens, even non-resident Estonians themselves, because of its military importance. Today, it’s open to everyone and deserves a visit by those interested in the grey world of the Soviet Union: Paldiski and the Pakri peninsula are covered with abandoned bunkers, piles of unidentifiable junk and various military debris. | |||
In 1870 the railway from St. Petersburg along the north Estonian coast reached Paldiski, and the railway also served as an "axis of development" for the cities along it. In addition to commerce and industry, the military also had strong position in the town during Russian Imperial and Soviet rule. Between the world wars Estonia was an independent country, and the town's name was established as Paldiski. Then the country fell into Soviet hands, Paldiski became a military outpost towards the western bloc and as such a closed city – off-limits to foreigners, non-resident Soviet citizens, even non-resident Estonians themselves because of its military importance. By the 1960s it had grown in size considerably and was the largest submarine base in the Soviet Union. In 1994, three years after the fall of the USSR, it became a normal town with the nuclear reactors used for training crews for nuclear submarines buried in concrete sarcophaguses. | |||
The scenes taking place in a location introduced to the audience as “somewhere in the former Soviet Union” in the film ''Lilya 4-Ever'' were shot in Paldiski. | |||
However it meant a decline of the town as its main activity had been dissolved. Today the main activity is the civilian freight, oil, and to some extent passenger port, and a kind of decaying Soviet (and to some extent Imperial Russian) open air museum, open to everyone. It's worth a visit if you're interested in the grey world of the Soviet Union: Paldiski and the Pakri peninsula are covered with abandoned bunkers, piles of unidentifiable junk and various military debris. Moreover, like many former Soviet cities that housed major functions, most inhabitants are Russian-speaking, "left behind" when the USSR disappeared, which gives the town a different feel from surrounding Estonia. Indeed the scenes taking place in a location introduced to the audience as “somewhere in the former Soviet Union” in the film ''Lilya 4-Ever'' were shot in Paldiski. | |||
Also the natural surroundings are interesting; the cliffs to the sea, the lighthouses outside town, and the wind farms of which there are probably more than anywhere else in the country. | |||
==Get in== | ==Get in== | ||
Best to take the train one way and the bus the other way to enjoy both sides of the ride. Bus and train schedules are easily available online – read more under [[Estonia#By_bus_2|Estonia]]. | Best to take the train one way and the bus the other way to enjoy both sides of the ride. Bus and train schedules are easily available online – read more under [[Estonia#By_bus_2|Estonia]]. | ||
The {{marker|type=go|name=central bus stop|lat=59.352457|long=24.0533638}} to get in and out is along Sadama street in the centre. But there are other stops between and including the railway station. | |||
===By train=== | ===By train=== | ||
[[ | [[File:Vaksalihoone Paldiskis.jpg|thumb|200px|Paldiski railway station building]] | ||
Trains run from Tallinn Balti Jaam, departures about every 1.5 hours. The trip takes just over an hour and it costs €3.15. | |||
*{{listing|type = go |lat = 59.34440 |long = 24.06047 |wdid= Q2132989 | |||
|name =Paldiski railway station |alt = |image= Paldiski jaamahoone.jpg | |||
|address = |directions = |url = |facebook = |vkontakte = |phone = |fax = |email = |skype = |hours = |price = | |||
|content=At the southern end of the city, near the oil terminals. Though it's more of a railway stop as the old wooden station building (a listed heritage building) isn't in use. | |||
}} | |||
===By bus=== | ===By bus=== | ||
Buses depart almost hourly during daytime from Tallinn Balti Jaam. The trip takes about 1 hr 10 min and it costs €3. | Buses - the [https://transport.tallinn.ee/#harju/regionalbus/145/a-b/08908-1/map/en Tallinn region bus line 145] - depart almost hourly during daytime, though not from the bus station. The depart from Tallinn Balti Jaam, going clockwise around the old town via Viru Hotel and Vabaduse väljak before heading west to the Zoo, Rocca al Mare shopping mall and Paldiski highway. The trip takes about 1 hr 10 min and it costs €3. | ||
The {{marker|type=go|name=central bus stop|lat=59.352457|long=24.0533638}} to get in and out is along Sadama street in the centre (they also have a timetable posted there), the one on Kivi is quite central also. But there are other stops between and including the railway station. | |||
On the way back to Tallinn, the most central bus stop in Paldiski is probably the one on Sadama or on Kivi street. They also have a timetable posted there. | |||
===By car=== | ===By car=== | ||
Paldiski is a | Paldiski is a 50 km drive from [[Tallinn]] along highway 8. From the southwest, you can get in from [[Haapsalu]] along highways 9 a short bit, 17 to Padise and 174 to Paldiski; that is a 70 km drive. | ||
===By boat=== | ===By boat=== | ||
[https://www.dfds.com/en DFDS] operates daily freight ferries from [[Kapellskär]], [[Sweden]] that also carry passengers (with cars). | |||
*{{listing|type = go |lat = 59.34727 |long = 24.05768 |wdid= Q12371883 | |||
|name = Port of Paldiski |alt = |image= | |||
|address = Peetri 11 |directions = | |||
|url = http://www.portofpaldiski.ee|facebook = |vkontakte = | |||
|phone =+372 651-10-22 |fax = |email = |skype = |hours = |price = | |||
|content=Chiefly a freight port, but some of the freight lines take passengers too. | |||
}} | |||
==Get around== | ==Get around== | ||
{{mapframe}} | {{mapframe}} | ||
{{mapshape}} | |||
Paldiski can be explored on foot. For the lighthouse, 5 km north, try taking a taxi, hitch or walk anyway. | There's no public transport but as a small town, Paldiski can be explored on foot. Rae, a continuation of the highway from Tallinn, is the main street, and the town stretches about two blocks east and west of this street where its delimited by the port or forest. If you wish to access the sea, you can do this north of the city where it's not blocked off by the port functions. For the lighthouse, 5 km north, try taking a taxi, hitch or walk anyway. | ||
==See== | ==See== | ||
Most of Paldiski dates to Soviet times or later; don't expect a picturesque old town like for instance in Haapsalu. Poorly maintained two- and five-floor apartment buildings, and newer buildings in between make up the bulk of the town. Virtually all of the military buildings, including the large submarine training center, have been demolished also. They have given place to the port, or just been turned into something between meadows and lawns. | |||
===In town=== | |||
* {{see | |||
| name=Amandus Adamson Studio Museum | alt=Amandus Adamsoni Ateljeemuuseum | url=http://www.amandusadamson.eu/ | email= | |||
| address=Adamsoni 3 | lat= 59.349259 | long= 24.061403 | directions= | |||
|image= Paldiski, maja, kus elas ja töötas Amandus Adamson.jpg| phone=+372 6742013 | tollfree= | fax= | |||
| hours=Tu-Su 11-18 (May-Sep), Th-Su 11-16 (Oct-Apr) | price=€4 | |||
|wdid= Q16413251| content=Old summer studio of Amandus Adamson (1855-1929), one of the most famous sculptors in Estonian history. Built according to his own design, the quirky wooden building is an attraction in itself. Today works of Estonian artists are exhibited here, and it's also an event venue. | |||
}} | |||
*{{listing|type = see |lat = 59.35599 |long = 24.04787 | |||
|name = Petrovskaya fortress |alt =Peetri kindluse bastionid / Muula mäed |image= Paldiski kindlustused ehk "muula mäed" 1.JPG | |||
|address = |directions = | |||
|url = |facebook = |vkontakte = |phone = |fax = |email = |skype = |hours = |price = | |||
|content=The remains of a fortress on a hill, with low overgrown ramparts. There are great views to the sea and the port functions. | |||
}} | |||
*{{listing|type = see |lat = 59.34911 |long = 24.05461 |wdid= Q12371884 | |||
|name = St. George church |alt = Püha Georgi kirik |image= Panteleimon.IMGP6676.JPG | |||
|address = Pakri 2 |directions = | |||
|url = |facebook = |vkontakte = |phone = |fax = |email = |skype = |hours = |price = | |||
|content=Here the first Orthodox church in Paldiski was built in 1721, and in the late 18th century it was rebuilt in its current grey stone form. It looks pretty modest as it lacks a tower and is almost hidden by trees. | |||
}} | |||
*{{listing|type = see |lat = 59.35073 |long = 24.05259 |wdid= Q12371879 | |||
|name = St. Nicholas church |alt = Nikolai kirik |image= EELK Nikolai.IMGP6679.JPG | |||
|address = Mere 12 |directions = | |||
|url = |facebook = |vkontakte = |phone = |fax = |email = |skype = |hours = |price = | |||
|content=Built in 1842, though its "cubist" form may make you think it's newer. The church fell into serious decay during Soviet times, and was restored into its current shape. | |||
}} | |||
*{{listing|type = see |lat = 59.35289 |long = 24.06020 | |||
|name = Church of St. Sergius of Radonezh |alt = |image= |address = Tuule 1 |directions = | |||
|url = |facebook = |vkontakte = |phone = |fax = |email = |skype = |hours = |price = | |||
|content=A modern wooden Orthodox church. | |||
}} | |||
*{{listing|type = see |lat = 59.35105 |long = 24.05896 | |||
|name = Monument to Salavat Yulaev |alt = |image= | |||
|address = |directions =corner of Pakri and Rae | |||
|url = |facebook = |vkontakte = |phone = |fax = |email = |skype = |hours = |price = | |||
|content=Salavat Yulaev was one of the leaders of the 1773-75 [[Bashkortostan|Bashkir]] uprising (also known as Pugachev's Rebellion) against the Russian Empire. He was caught, tortured, and sent to a penal colony the opposite end of the empire like the common practice was back then, which meant Rogervik (Paldiski retained its Swedish name) where he reportedly died in 1800. In 1989 Soviet authorities erected a monument to him, which still stands. | |||
}} | |||
===Pakri=== | |||
[[Image:Paldiski bank.jpg|thumb|290px|Bank and Pakri lighthouse, situated about 5 km north]] | |||
[[File:Paldiski Bay.jpg|thumb|View from the road towards Padise (just south of the port) across the bay]] | |||
The '''Pakri peninsula''', whose southwestern shore Paldiski occupies, has a rocky coast. The best place for seeing the waves crashing into the rocks is the tip of the peninsula where the Pakri lighthouse is. There are actually two lighthouses. The old one was built in 1722 on orders by Peter the Great, nowadays falling apart and dangerously located at the cliff. Across the road is the new lighthouse, built in 1889. | |||
* {{see | * {{see | ||
| name=Pakri lighthouse | alt= | url= | email= | | name=Pakri lighthouse | alt= | url= | email= | ||
| address=Majaka tee | lat=59.3874 | long=24.037717 | directions=4 km from Paldiski | | address=Majaka tee | lat=59.3874 | long=24.037717 | directions=4 km from Paldiski | ||
| phone=+372 55576087 | tollfree= | fax= | | phone=+372 55576087 | tollfree= | fax=|image=Pakri-tuletorni-varemed.jpg | ||
| hours=May-Sep: daily 10:00-20:00; Oct-Apr: Sa Su 12:00-18:00 | price=€5/3 adult/student | | hours=May-Sep: daily 10:00-20:00; Oct-Apr: Sa Su 12:00-18:00 | price=€5/3 adult/student | ||
| wikipedia=Pakri Lighthouse | image=Paldiski Lighthouse edit.jpg | wikidata=Q3376587 | | wikipedia=Pakri Lighthouse | image=Paldiski Lighthouse edit.jpg | wikidata=Q3376587 | ||
| content= | | content=From Estonia's highest lighthouse (52 meters) you can enjoy views of the Baltic sea, but it's rather expensive compared to the lighthouses on Hiiumaa island. | ||
}} | }} | ||
* {{see | |||
Near the lighthouse(s) there's also a staircase leading down to the sea. Overall the peninsula is a good place for just wandering around the shore and watching the Baltic Sea. Do not go too close to the edge as the ground is unstable (and forget about any fences). | |||
| name=Amandus Adamson Studio Museum | alt=Amandus Adamsoni Ateljeemuuseum | url=http://www.amandusadamson.eu/ | email= | |||
| address= | lat= 59.349259 | long= 24.061403 | directions= | |||
*{{listing|type=see| lat= 59.36668| long= 24.12855 |wdid= Q12368420 | |||
| phone=+372 6742013 | tollfree= | fax= | |||
| name= Leetse manor | alt= Leetse mõis | image= Leetse mõisa väravIMGP6730.JPG | |||
| hours= | price= | |||
| address= | directions=5 km west of Paldiski | |||
| content=Old summer studio of Amandus Adamson. | |||
| content=The remains of a grand manor, just the walls remain of the main building, in addition to stairs down to the sea, the decorated gate, and the manager's house. On the way here, you will pass the "sarcophagi" with the deactivated nuclear reactors from the former submarine training facility. | |||
}} | |||
* {{see | |||
| name=Orthodox Church | alt=EELK Paldiski Nikolai kirik | url= | email= | |||
| address= | lat=59.3490933 | long=24.0546727 | directions= | |||
| phone= | tollfree= | fax= | |||
| hours=closed | price= | |||
| lastedit= | |||
| content= | |||
}} | }} | ||
A couple of kilometers west of Paldiski are the {{Marker|type=see|lat=59.334 | long=23.978|name=Pakri islands}} (''Pakri saared''), that are a [https://pakrisaared.ee nature reserve]. The islands were inhabited by Swedes from 1345 onwards, who were growing rye there, wherefore the island were named ''Rågöarna'' - the Rye Islands. They were evicted in WWII by the Soviet military, who turned the islands into a base and later a bombing range. After restoration of independence, the islands were cleared of ordnance and turned into a nature reserve. In addition to nature, you can see the remains of abandoned Swedish villages including a church bell tower and Soviet military buildings. | |||
The reserve authorities operate tour boats that leave from {{Marker|type=go|lat=59.2879 | long=24.0214|name=Kurkse}} each morning in the summer at 10:00, returning in the afternoon - these trips take place only if there are enough passengers. Return tickets cost €33 and trips need to be booked 36 hours before departure. | |||
===Klooga=== | |||
[[File:Klooga alevik.jpg|thumb|Abandoned military building in Klooga]] | |||
{{listing|type=see|lat=59.3193 |long=24.2309 |name=Klooga|image=Klooga alevik.jpg|format=poi}} is a village along the railway, 10 km east of Paldiski. After WWII, when the peninsula with surroundings was militarized, the civilian population was evicted. Nowadays its a normal village, but there are still some abandoned buildings built by the Soviets. | |||
North of the village, the Nazis operated a concentration camp during the German occupation in WWII, where more than two thousand Jews were murdered. Of the camp, a {{listing|type=see| lat=59.32833|long=24.21927|name=memorial|image=Klooga, P1040114.jpg|format=poi}} remains. During the same time, Ingrian Finns escaping the Soviet Union were placed in a camp in the nearby village of Põllküla, and many died due to the poor conditions there; of this camp too a {{listing|type=see| lat=59.33006|long=24.17014|name=memorial |image=Põllküla terroriohvrite matmispaik (2).jpg|format=poi}} remains. | |||
==Do== | ==Do== | ||
If you have a good map that has many foot paths (like [http://www.openstreetmap.org/#map=14/59.3557/24.0633&layers=C OpenStreetMap], which many mobile Apps like OsmAnd or Mapy.cz use), you can walk around the port and continue north along the cliffs towards the lighthouse. | If you have a good map that has many foot paths (like [http://www.openstreetmap.org/#map=14/59.3557/24.0633&layers=C OpenStreetMap], which many mobile Apps like OsmAnd or Mapy.cz use), you can walk around the port and continue north along the cliffs towards the lighthouse. | ||
*{{listing|type = do |lat = 59.35450 |long = 24.07564 | |||
|name = Pakri Straus |alt = |image= | |||
|address = Sadama 38 |directions = | |||
|url = |facebook = |vkontakte = | |||
|phone =+372 509-88-97 |fax = |email = |skype = | |||
|hours = Sa-Su 10-18 | |||
|price = | |||
|content=Ostrich farm. | |||
}} | |||
==Buy== | ==Buy== | ||
*{{listing|type = buy |lat = 59.35270 |long = 24.05634 | |||
* There are two grocery stores | |||
|name = COOP | |||
:*Konsum - supermarket with pharmacy | |||
|alt=formerly known as Konsum | |||
:*Maxima - Modern products and Russian-style borscht | |||
|address = Rae 38 | |||
* The locals shop and a few kiosks, located in a dilapidated lot, which sell various supplies. | |||
|phone = | |||
* Kaubamaja - Slavic products, Russian beers, confectionary | |||
|email = | |||
* Second hand stores - Slavic-style clothes | |||
|url =https://www.coop.ee/paldiski-konsum | |||
|hours = 9-22 | |||
|content=Supermarket with pharmacy. | |||
}} | |||
*{{listing|type = buy |lat = 59.34765 |long = 24.06275 | |||
|name = Maxima | |||
|address = Rae 14b | |||
|phone = | |||
|email = | |||
|url =https://www.maxima.ee/ | |||
|hours = 8-22 | |||
|content= Another supermarket, with modern products and Russian-style borscht. | |||
}} | |||
*{{listing|type = buy |lat = 59.35245 |long = 24.05492 | |||
|name = Kaubamaja | |||
|address = Rae 23 | |||
|phone = | |||
|email = | |||
|url = http://konvers.ee/ | |||
|hours = 9-21 | |||
|content=The first floor is a supermarket, on the second household goods. A good place to find Slavic products, Russian beers, confectionary. | |||
}} | |||
In addition the town has a few kiosks and second hand stores. | |||
==Eat== | ==Eat and drink== | ||
[[File:Таможня Палдиски.jpg|thumb|Peetri Toll tavern is inside an old customs building]] | |||
* '''Peetri Toll''' also serves food. | |||
* {{eat | * {{eat | ||
| name=Peetri Pizza | alt= | url= | | name=Peetri Pizza | alt= | url=https://www.peetripizza.ee/pizzeria/paldiski | email= | ||
| address=Rae 17 | lat= 59.350167 | long= 24.057821 | directions= | | address=Rae 17 | lat= 59.350167 | long= 24.057821 | directions= | ||
| phone=+372 6742095 | tollfree= | fax= | | phone=+372 6742095 | tollfree= | fax= | ||
| hours=Daily 11:00–21:00 | price= | | hours=Daily 11:00–21:00 | price=€4-6 | ||
| lastedit=2015-11-29 | | lastedit=2015-11-29 | ||
| content=Pizzeria with very good ratings online. | | content=Pizzeria with very good ratings online, part of a national franchising chain. | ||
}} | }} | ||
*{{listing|type = eat|lat = 59.35026|long = 24.05325 | |||
==Drink== | |||
|name = Peetri Toll | |||
* {{drink | |||
|alt = | |||
| name=Peetri Toll | alt= | url=http://peetritoll.ee/ | email= | |||
|address = Mere 10 | |||
| address=Mere 10 | lat= 59.350253 | long= 24.053304 | directions= | |||
|phone = +372 5342-3425 | |||
| phone=+372 53423425 | tollfree= | fax= | |||
|email = [email protected] | |||
|url = https://peetritoll.ee/ | |||
|hours = 11-24 | |||
|price =€7-11 | |||
|content=Tavern in an old customs house (from the Imperial time) just outside the port. Slavic and international cuisine; not everything on the menu is always available, just the dishes written on the blackboard. On the second floor there's a photo exhibition of Paldiski in the bygone times. | |||
}} | |||
* {{eat | |||
| name=Anne KoogiKodu | alt= | url=https://www.facebook.com/Annekoogikodu | email= | |||
| address=Sadama 13 | lat=59.3533 | long=24.0555 | directions= | |||
| phone= | tollfree= | |||
| hours= | price= | | hours= | price= | ||
| wikidata= | |||
| content=This is a new tavern. | |||
| lastedit=2023-04-06 | |||
| content=Bakery and café. | |||
}} | }} | ||
* There is also an alcohol shop in town. | |||
Other than these, self-catering is also possible (see Buy above). The closest thing to bars and nightlife is the tavern, which is rather quiet in the evenings too. | |||
==Sleep== | ==Sleep== | ||
* {{sleep | * {{sleep | ||
| name=Pakri Hostel | alt= | url= | | name=Pakri Hostel | alt= | url=| [email protected] | ||
| address=Kivi 4 | lat= 59.347594 | long= 24.060087 | directions= | | address=Kivi 4 | lat= 59.347594 | long= 24.060087 | directions= | ||
| phone=+372 58140153 | tollfree= | fax= | | phone=+372 58140153 | tollfree= | fax= | ||
| Line 99: | Line 219: | ||
| content=Very bad ratings. Check them first before deciding to stay here. | | content=Very bad ratings. Check them first before deciding to stay here. | ||
}} | }} | ||
* {{sleep | * {{sleep | ||
| name=Paldiski Hotel | alt= | url=https://housity.net/hotel/paldiski/ | email= | |||
| address= | | address=Rae 32 | lat=59.35040 | long=24.05876 | directions= | ||
| phone=+ | | phone=+37255693067 | tollfree= | fax= | ||
| checkin= | checkout= | price=rates from €55 | |||
| price=From €30 single | checkin= | checkout= | |||
| wikidata= | |||
| content=A new bed & breakfast. | |||
| lastedit=2023-04-06 | |||
| content= | |||
}} | }} | ||
==Connect== | |||
*{{listing|type = other |lat = 59.35257 |long = 24.05695 | |||
|name = City Library |alt =Paldiski Linnaraamatukogu |image= | |||
|address = Rae 38 |directions = | |||
|url =https://lhvraamatukogud.ee/kontakt/laane-harju-valla-raamatukogu/ |facebook = |vkontakte = |phone = |fax = |email = |skype = | |||
|hours = Tu-F 11-18, Sa 11-16 | |||
|price = | |||
|content= Library with Internet access point. | |||
}} | |||
* {{listing | |||
| name=Post office | alt=Paldiski postkontor | url=https://www.omniva.ee/private/map | email= | |||
| address=Rae 14B-14C | lat=59.34755 | long=24.06267 | directions= | |||
| phone= | tollfree= | |||
| hours=M-Tu, F 10-15, W-Th 13-18 | price= | |||
| wikidata= | |||
| lastedit=2023-04-06 | |||
| content=The town's post office. | |||
}} | |||
All mobile operators (Elisa, Tele2 and Telia) have 4G coverage in and around Paldiski. | |||
==Go next== | ==Go next== | ||
| Line 111: | Line 256: | ||
* [[Nõva]] – 20 km towards [[Haapsalu]] is this beautiful coastal village with untouched pine forests and a clean beach. | * [[Nõva]] – 20 km towards [[Haapsalu]] is this beautiful coastal village with untouched pine forests and a clean beach. | ||
{{guidecity}} | |||
{{usablecity}} | |||
{{geo|59.3500|24.0500}} | {{geo|59.3500|24.0500}} | ||
{{isPartOf|North Estonia}} | {{isPartOf|North Estonia}} | ||
Revision as of 20:44, 6 April 2023
Paldiski is a port town (population: 3,500 in 2021) on the shore of Baltic Sea, in Harjumaa county in northwestern Estonia. Here the drab Soviet past meets the sea and the cliffs with wind power plants.
Understand
Paldiski is on the Pakri peninsula stretching out into the Baltic Sea. As such the port rarely freezes over during winter (unlike Tallinn for instance). The Swedes were the first to discover this and established the settlement of Rågervik in the 14th century. After the Great Northern War in the early 18th century, present-day Estonia became Russian, and Peter the Great had a fortress built here. The settlement first functioned as a penal colony, though over the decades the port was developed and in 1762 the settlement was renamed Baltiiskiy Port (Валтийский Порт), whereas also the German name Baltischport was used as Baltic Germans held a high position in the Baltic commercial life, and the Estonians called the town Paldiski.
In 1870 the railway from St. Petersburg along the north Estonian coast reached Paldiski, and the railway also served as an "axis of development" for the cities along it. In addition to commerce and industry, the military also had strong position in the town during Russian Imperial and Soviet rule. Between the world wars Estonia was an independent country, and the town's name was established as Paldiski. Then the country fell into Soviet hands, Paldiski became a military outpost towards the western bloc and as such a closed city – off-limits to foreigners, non-resident Soviet citizens, even non-resident Estonians themselves because of its military importance. By the 1960s it had grown in size considerably and was the largest submarine base in the Soviet Union. In 1994, three years after the fall of the USSR, it became a normal town with the nuclear reactors used for training crews for nuclear submarines buried in concrete sarcophaguses.
However it meant a decline of the town as its main activity had been dissolved. Today the main activity is the civilian freight, oil, and to some extent passenger port, and a kind of decaying Soviet (and to some extent Imperial Russian) open air museum, open to everyone. It's worth a visit if you're interested in the grey world of the Soviet Union: Paldiski and the Pakri peninsula are covered with abandoned bunkers, piles of unidentifiable junk and various military debris. Moreover, like many former Soviet cities that housed major functions, most inhabitants are Russian-speaking, "left behind" when the USSR disappeared, which gives the town a different feel from surrounding Estonia. Indeed the scenes taking place in a location introduced to the audience as “somewhere in the former Soviet Union” in the film Lilya 4-Ever were shot in Paldiski.
Also the natural surroundings are interesting; the cliffs to the sea, the lighthouses outside town, and the wind farms of which there are probably more than anywhere else in the country.
Get in
Best to take the train one way and the bus the other way to enjoy both sides of the ride. Bus and train schedules are easily available online – read more under Estonia.
By train
Trains run from Tallinn Balti Jaam, departures about every 1.5 hours. The trip takes just over an hour and it costs €3.15.
- 1 Paldiski railway station. At the southern end of the city, near the oil terminals. Though it's more of a railway stop as the old wooden station building (a listed heritage building) isn't in use.
By bus
Buses - the Tallinn region bus line 145 - depart almost hourly during daytime, though not from the bus station. The depart from Tallinn Balti Jaam, going clockwise around the old town via Viru Hotel and Vabaduse väljak before heading west to the Zoo, Rocca al Mare shopping mall and Paldiski highway. The trip takes about 1 hr 10 min and it costs €3.
The 2 central bus stop to get in and out is along Sadama street in the centre (they also have a timetable posted there), the one on Kivi is quite central also. But there are other stops between and including the railway station.
By car
Paldiski is a 50 km drive from Tallinn along highway 8. From the southwest, you can get in from Haapsalu along highways 9 a short bit, 17 to Padise and 174 to Paldiski; that is a 70 km drive.
By boat
DFDS operates daily freight ferries from Kapellskär, Sweden that also carry passengers (with cars).
- 3 Port of Paldiski, Peetri 11, ☏ +372 651-10-22. Chiefly a freight port, but some of the freight lines take passengers too.
Get around
There's no public transport but as a small town, Paldiski can be explored on foot. Rae, a continuation of the highway from Tallinn, is the main street, and the town stretches about two blocks east and west of this street where its delimited by the port or forest. If you wish to access the sea, you can do this north of the city where it's not blocked off by the port functions. For the lighthouse, 5 km north, try taking a taxi, hitch or walk anyway.
See
Most of Paldiski dates to Soviet times or later; don't expect a picturesque old town like for instance in Haapsalu. Poorly maintained two- and five-floor apartment buildings, and newer buildings in between make up the bulk of the town. Virtually all of the military buildings, including the large submarine training center, have been demolished also. They have given place to the port, or just been turned into something between meadows and lawns.
In town
- 1 Amandus Adamson Studio Museum (Amandus Adamsoni Ateljeemuuseum), Adamsoni 3, ☏ +372 6742013. Tu-Su 11-18 (May-Sep), Th-Su 11-16 (Oct-Apr). Old summer studio of Amandus Adamson (1855-1929), one of the most famous sculptors in Estonian history. Built according to his own design, the quirky wooden building is an attraction in itself. Today works of Estonian artists are exhibited here, and it's also an event venue. €4.
- 2 Petrovskaya fortress (Peetri kindluse bastionid / Muula mäed). The remains of a fortress on a hill, with low overgrown ramparts. There are great views to the sea and the port functions.
- 3 St. George church (Püha Georgi kirik), Pakri 2. Here the first Orthodox church in Paldiski was built in 1721, and in the late 18th century it was rebuilt in its current grey stone form. It looks pretty modest as it lacks a tower and is almost hidden by trees.
- 4 St. Nicholas church (Nikolai kirik), Mere 12. Built in 1842, though its "cubist" form may make you think it's newer. The church fell into serious decay during Soviet times, and was restored into its current shape.
- 5 Church of St. Sergius of Radonezh, Tuule 1. A modern wooden Orthodox church.
- 6 Monument to Salavat Yulaev (corner of Pakri and Rae). Salavat Yulaev was one of the leaders of the 1773-75 Bashkir uprising (also known as Pugachev's Rebellion) against the Russian Empire. He was caught, tortured, and sent to a penal colony the opposite end of the empire like the common practice was back then, which meant Rogervik (Paldiski retained its Swedish name) where he reportedly died in 1800. In 1989 Soviet authorities erected a monument to him, which still stands.
Pakri
The Pakri peninsula, whose southwestern shore Paldiski occupies, has a rocky coast. The best place for seeing the waves crashing into the rocks is the tip of the peninsula where the Pakri lighthouse is. There are actually two lighthouses. The old one was built in 1722 on orders by Peter the Great, nowadays falling apart and dangerously located at the cliff. Across the road is the new lighthouse, built in 1889.
- 7 Pakri lighthouse, Majaka tee (4 km from Paldiski), ☏ +372 55576087. May-Sep: daily 10:00-20:00; Oct-Apr: Sa Su 12:00-18:00. From Estonia's highest lighthouse (52 meters) you can enjoy views of the Baltic sea, but it's rather expensive compared to the lighthouses on Hiiumaa island. €5/3 adult/student.
Near the lighthouse(s) there's also a staircase leading down to the sea. Overall the peninsula is a good place for just wandering around the shore and watching the Baltic Sea. Do not go too close to the edge as the ground is unstable (and forget about any fences).
- 8 Leetse manor (Leetse mõis) (5 km west of Paldiski). The remains of a grand manor, just the walls remain of the main building, in addition to stairs down to the sea, the decorated gate, and the manager's house. On the way here, you will pass the "sarcophagi" with the deactivated nuclear reactors from the former submarine training facility.
A couple of kilometers west of Paldiski are the 9 Pakri islands (Pakri saared), that are a nature reserve. The islands were inhabited by Swedes from 1345 onwards, who were growing rye there, wherefore the island were named Rågöarna - the Rye Islands. They were evicted in WWII by the Soviet military, who turned the islands into a base and later a bombing range. After restoration of independence, the islands were cleared of ordnance and turned into a nature reserve. In addition to nature, you can see the remains of abandoned Swedish villages including a church bell tower and Soviet military buildings.
The reserve authorities operate tour boats that leave from 4 Kurkse each morning in the summer at 10:00, returning in the afternoon - these trips take place only if there are enough passengers. Return tickets cost €33 and trips need to be booked 36 hours before departure.
Klooga
10 Klooga. is a village along the railway, 10 km east of Paldiski. After WWII, when the peninsula with surroundings was militarized, the civilian population was evicted. Nowadays its a normal village, but there are still some abandoned buildings built by the Soviets.
North of the village, the Nazis operated a concentration camp during the German occupation in WWII, where more than two thousand Jews were murdered. Of the camp, a 11 memorial. remains. During the same time, Ingrian Finns escaping the Soviet Union were placed in a camp in the nearby village of Põllküla, and many died due to the poor conditions there; of this camp too a 12 memorial. remains.
Do
If you have a good map that has many foot paths (like OpenStreetMap, which many mobile Apps like OsmAnd or Mapy.cz use), you can walk around the port and continue north along the cliffs towards the lighthouse.
- 1 Pakri Straus, Sadama 38, ☏ +372 509-88-97. Sa-Su 10-18. Ostrich farm.
Buy
- 3 Kaubamaja, Rae 23. 9-21. The first floor is a supermarket, on the second household goods. A good place to find Slavic products, Russian beers, confectionary.
In addition the town has a few kiosks and second hand stores.
Eat and drink
- 1 Peetri Pizza, Rae 17, ☏ +372 6742095. Daily 11:00–21:00. Pizzeria with very good ratings online, part of a national franchising chain. €4-6.
- 2 Peetri Toll, Mere 10, ☏ +372 5342-3425, [email protected]. 11-24. Tavern in an old customs house (from the Imperial time) just outside the port. Slavic and international cuisine; not everything on the menu is always available, just the dishes written on the blackboard. On the second floor there's a photo exhibition of Paldiski in the bygone times. €7-11.
- 3 Anne KoogiKodu, Sadama 13. Bakery and café.
Other than these, self-catering is also possible (see Buy above). The closest thing to bars and nightlife is the tavern, which is rather quiet in the evenings too.
Sleep
- 1 Pakri Hostel, Kivi 4, ☏ +372 58140153, [email protected]. Very bad ratings. Check them first before deciding to stay here. Dorm from €16.
- 2 Paldiski Hotel, Rae 32, ☏ +37255693067. rates from €55.
Connect
- 1 City Library (Paldiski Linnaraamatukogu), Rae 38. Tu-F 11-18, Sa 11-16. Library with Internet access point.
- 1 Post office (Paldiski postkontor), Rae 14B-14C. M-Tu, F 10-15, W-Th 13-18. The town's post office.
All mobile operators (Elisa, Tele2 and Telia) have 4G coverage in and around Paldiski.
Go next
- Laulasmaa – 20 km east to the east from Paldiski towards Tallinn there is this small coastal village.
- Nõva – 20 km towards Haapsalu is this beautiful coastal village with untouched pine forests and a clean beach.
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