The Tiger Leaping Gorge trek (虎跳峡; Pinyin: Hǔ Tiào Xiá), near Lijiang in Yunnan, is a mountain hike through some of the most naturally beautiful and diverse landscapes China has to offer. The high trail runs along the northern side of the gorge, passing quiet villages, shady forest, exposed mountainsides and verdant terraced farmland. The snow-covered peaks of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (玉龙雪山; Yùlóng Xuěshān; 5,596 m) and Haba Snow Mountain (哈巴雪山; Hābā Xuěshān; 5,396 m) rise on either side of the gorge.
The main hike runs from Changsheng Village, near the former trailhead at Qiaotou, towards Walnut Grove. Road transport is used to reach and leave the trail, and visitors who do not want to undertake the high trail can also see part of the gorge by road and a paved walking route.
Understand
[edit | edit source]Tiger Leaping Gorge lies between Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and Haba Snow Mountain in northwestern ]]Yunnan]]. The high trail traverses the northern side of the gorge well above the Yangtze River, moving from the wider valley around Qiaotou into increasingly dramatic mountain terrain.
The trail was formerly started in Qiaotou itself, but construction and a new highway have shifted the practical trailhead about 3 km farther east to Changsheng Village. From there the route climbs through villages and farmland before traversing the steep mountainside above the gorge. Tina's Guesthouse, where the high trail meets the road, is a convenient transport point but need not be the end of the hike: hikers can descend into the middle gorge and continue towards Walnut Grove.
The hike requires reasonable fitness and hiking experience. There are steep ascents and descents, including the well-known 28 switchbacks, and some sections are exposed. Wet weather can make the trail slippery and increase the danger from landslides and swollen cascades. The main high trail does not require technical climbing equipment, but some optional side trails are considerably more difficult.
An open-ended ticket to the trail was ¥45 as of February 2024, with reduced admission for students under 25 and half-price admission for seniors over 60. There are reports that the two sides of the gorge may require different tickets.
Prepare
[edit | edit source]Almost everything along the route can be paid for with Alipay or WeChat, so carrying large amounts of cash is generally unnecessary. There are a few ATMs in Qiaotou, although they are likely to accept only Chinese bank cards.
Maps showing distances and guesthouse locations are available from the ticket office. Arrange storage for luggage you do not need on the hike before setting out, and confirm where and when you will collect it. Jane's Tibetan Guesthouse in Qiaotou has offered luggage storage; if leaving bags there, ask whether your onward transport can stop for collection.
The high trail is a mountain footpath and hikers should expect to carry their own belongings. Near the most difficult part of the trail, around the 28 switchbacks, local men with horses or donkeys may offer to carry hikers for ¥150–300 or baggage for about ¥50.
Eat
[edit | edit source]There are numerous family-run guesthouses along the high trail, many of which serve freshly cooked meals, so hikers using the standard route do not normally need to carry a camping stove.
There are occasional vendors selling fruit, water and beer, and a shop between Naxi Family Guesthouse and the highest part of the trail sells various supplies. Do not depend on shops or vendors being open in the low season; bring sufficient supplies from Qiaotou or another starting point.
Drink
[edit | edit source]Before leaving Lijiang, Qiaotou or Daju, make sure you have enough drinking water for the first part of the hike. Water is sold at guesthouses and by occasional vendors along the trail. Guesthouses have charged around ¥5 for a 1.5-litre bottle, although prices may change.
Do not rely on shops or vendors being present outside the main season.
Sleep
[edit | edit source]Numerous family-run guesthouses are conveniently spaced along the trail. Prices rise during peak periods, but outside those times accommodation can be inexpensive and quiet. There is normally no need to carry a tent when following the standard guesthouse-to-guesthouse route.
Qiaotou has a handful of hotels and can be useful for an overnight stay before an early start. Starting around midday leaves enough time for many hikers to reach Naxi Family Guesthouse, while faster walkers can continue farther along the trail.
Climate
[edit | edit source]Tiger Leaping Gorge generally has a mild climate, with abundant rainfall and plenty of sunshine, although temperatures can vary substantially during a single day. The average annual temperature is between about 13°C and 20°C.
March and April are among the best months for hiking, with comfortable weather and daytime temperatures reaching about 20°C, while May is warmer and brings more blooming flowers. June to September is the rainy season, with temperatures generally around 10–26°C; heavy rain can cause landslides and occasionally close the gorge. From around mid-autumn through November, conditions are usually dry and sunny. Winter is also often sunny, dry and clear, with temperatures around 5–15°C, although mornings and nights can be cold.
Check the weather forecast and current trail conditions before setting out, and bring warm layers for chilly mornings and evenings. The hike can be undertaken throughout much of the year in suitable conditions, but avoid it during heavy rain or after substantial recent rainfall.
Get in
[edit | edit source]- Changsheng Village via Qiaotou is the usual starting point for the high trail. Morning buses from Lijiang run to Qiaotou (桥头), taking about 2–2½ hours and costing ¥24–33, with departures every 30–60 minutes; a passport may be required to buy a ticket. Buy a ticket only to Qiaotou, as the more expensive ticket sold for "Tiger Leaping Gorge" may continue beyond the trailhead. From Lijiang Train Station, a taxi to the main bus station costs about ¥15. Public transport is also possible with a transfer, while private minivans at the station may charge ¥400–500 for a direct trip to Qiaotou. Buses from Shangrila towards Kunming, Lijiang and Dali can also drop passengers at Qiaotou, reportedly running at least hourly and costing around ¥30. The high trail formerly began at 1 Qiaotou (former starting point of the trek), but construction has shifted the practical trailhead about 3 km east to 2 Tiger Leaping Trek Starting Point, Changsheng Village 长胜村. As access and drop-off points have changed during construction, confirm the current arrangements when booking transport. If dropped in Qiaotou, arrange a short ride to the trailhead. Guided group trips from Lijiang cost about ¥500, including transport, one night's accommodation and fees, but excluding food. Travellers continuing north towards Shangrila can alternatively take the road via Haba. It is longer but quieter, offers excellent mountain scenery, and is paved and suitable for bicycles.
- Naxi Family Guesthouse is an alternative starting point for hikers arriving by private transport. Starting here skips about 1½ hours of walking and roughly 300 m of ascent from Changsheng Village, but also bypasses the quieter opening section, which has views across the broad valley towards the new highway and railway bridges. The ticket office is shortly beyond the guesthouse.
- Upper Tiger Leaping Gorge can be reached by road for visitors who want to see the gorge without hiking the high trail. The road along the south side leads to a parking area, from which a relatively easy paved path, including wooden walkways and stone steps, continues to Upper Tiger Leaping Stone. Special buses have operated directly from Lijiang Bus Terminal to Tiger Leaping Stone. Reported departures were at 08:30 and 09:30, returning at 14:30 and 15:30, but these times date from 2019 and should be checked locally before relying on them.
Walk
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The high trail is normally walked over two days, with an overnight stop in Bendiwan; a slower itinerary can be spread over three days. Walking times are approximate and exclude extended stops and side trips. It reaches the road at Middle Gorge, from where hikers can descend to the river and continue to Walnut Grove.

The Changsheng Village trailhead was marked by Trekking Tour Starting Point Family House (高路徒步起点民居) in February 2024. From the trailhead, it climbs for roughly 1½ hours and gains about 300 m before reaching Nuoyu (诺于), where Naxi Family Guesthouse is located. The quieter opening section has views over the broad valley before the route enters the gorge, as well as views of the new highway and railway bridges.
Shortly after Naxi Family Guesthouse is the ticket office. Beyond Nuoyu, the trail climbs towards the 28 steep switchbacks, the most demanding ascent on the standard high route. Local men with horses or donkeys wait near this section and may offer to carry hikers or their bags for a fee.
After the climb, the trail continues high on the mountainside, with views across the gorge and towards the surrounding mountains. About 3 hours after leaving Naxi Family Guesthouse, you reach Tea-Horse Trade Guesthouse.
From Tea-Horse Trade Guesthouse, continue along the high trail for another 1½ hours to 3 Bendiwan. Family Inn is the first accommodation reached; Come Inn, Judy's Guest House and Halfway Lodge follow within a few minutes. Bendiwan is a convenient place to stop overnight when completing the high trail over two days.
- 1 Jane's Tibetan Guesthouse, Qiaotou (Near the former trailhead; arrange a transfer to the current starting point), ☏ +86 887 8806570. Tibetan-style guesthouse with a restaurant. Maps, luggage storage and transport from Tina's have been available; confirm current arrangements and storage charges directly. English may be limited.
- 2 Naxi Family Guesthouse, ☏ +86 8878806928, +86 13988758424. A range of neat rooms looking into the central courtyard. Basic shared washing facilities with warmish showers and nice garden views from the toilet. Good-value freshly cooked Western/Chinese food made with locally grown produce (try the pumpkin). Very authentic feel, great alternative to staying in Qiaotou. Pickup by Jeep or horse and reservations can be made in advance. dorm: ¥20, double/twin: ¥40, double with bathroom: ¥70 (prices are probably old).
- 3 Tea-Horse Trade Guesthouse, ☏ +86 13988717292, +86 13988707922. Friendly atmosphere and very tasty food with a large menu, freshly cooked by the owners' children. Affordable massages (¥50/hour, though they aren't always available). Toilets are outside, Chinese-style, without doors, so bring your own toilet paper. Smaller than Halfway, with about 20 rooms. No heaters in the rooms and the mattresses are thin, but there are thick warm blankets. Double or twin room ¥50, shared bathroom, ¥120 for double or twin ensuite, triple bed room ¥90.
- 4 Family Inn, ☏ +86 187-8768-1717, +86 187-0887-1110, +86 133-2043-6598. The first guest house in Bendiwan Village when hiking from the west.
- 5 Come Inn, ☏ +86 18183853151, 641589921@qq.com. Small and cozy guesthouse, quieter than Halfway but with a similar view. The owner/manager Jerry speaks very good English. ¥45 for dorm beds, ¥160 double ensuite.
- 6 Judy's Guest House, ☏ +86 131-1690-4899, +86 153-3143-3900. Guest house opened in autumn 2019 a short distance from Halfway Lodge.
- 7 Halfway Lodge, ☏ +86 133-6884-4698, +86 131-7079-5128. Large and popular guesthouse with simple rooms, food and good views. Its "Inspiration Point" dining area and unusual "scenic toilet" overlook Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. It can be noisy. If arriving late, stay here rather than continuing towards Middle Gorge after dark. The lodge owner, Feng De Fang (冯德芳), speaks English, as does his son Feng Jiang Hui (冯将辉). ¥40 for dorm beds. ¥90 double no en suite, ¥150 double ensuite.
From Bendiwan, the high trail continues along the mountainside before descending towards Middle Gorge. About 20 minutes after leaving Halfway Lodge, you reach Five Fingers Mountain Guest House, around 30 m above the trail.
From Five Fingers, allow roughly another 1 hour 40 minutes to reach Middle Gorge. The descent can be slippery and steep and should not be attempted after dark; there are exposed sections without barriers where a fall from the mountainside would be serious.
The trail reaches the road at Middle Gorge beside Tina's Guesthouse. This is a convenient place to finish the standard high-trail trek and return towards Lijiang or continue by road. Hikers with more time can instead descend into Middle Gorge and continue towards Walnut Grove.
- 8 Five Fingers Mountain Guest House, ☏ +86 13988776286. A traditional Yunnan farmstead around 30 m above the trail, offering basic but clean rooms with shared hot showers. It is a quieter alternative to the better-known guesthouses, with excellent views from the courtyard and rooms. Meals are available.
- 9 Tina's Youth Hostel, ☏ +86 887 8202258. More than a youth hostel, with twin, double and triple rooms. There is hot water, wifi and heating pads. There is a cafe upstairs from the dining room. Transport towards Qiaotou and Lijiang can be arranged; confirm departures and book tickets in the morning. If collecting stored luggage in Qiaotou, arrange the stop when booking.
From Middle Gorge, steep trails descend towards the Jinsha River and Tiger Leaping Rock. The two main routes are Tianti, the "Heavenly Ladder", and Teacher Zhang's trail. Both are locally maintained and have charged separate access fees, additional to the main gorge ticket. Using one route down and the other up may mean paying twice; the downstream path and some viewpoints may also charge separately. Confirm fees and which paths are open before descending.
At the bottom, hikers can visit the river and Tiger Leaping Rock before either climbing back to the road or continuing downstream towards Walnut Grove. The downstream route, known as the Ray of Sunshine or Yixiantian trail (一线天), follows the river through a dramatic section cut into the sheer cliff before gradually climbing towards Walnut Grove. Parts of the trail are exposed, and conditions should be checked locally before setting out.
Near Walnut Grove, a little-used, challenging side trail marked with yellow arrows leads through bamboo to a remote waterfall and a series of pools. It is absent from many maps; ask locally about access and conditions before attempting it. Signs have also advertised transport from Sean's Guesthouse to Lijiang, but this does not run every day and should not be relied upon.
- 10 [dead link] Tibet Guest House, ☏ +86 13988740050. Run by a Tibetan family since it opened in May 2006. Price ¥20-100. Hot water 24 hours. Tibetan, Western and Chinese meals are available. 20.
- 11 Sean's Spring Guest House, ☏ +86 158-9436-7846, +86 158-9436-5138. The owner, Sean, speaks English. Private rooms have 24-hour hot water and heating. Food and a sauna are available. A minibus to Haba can be booked here. dorm ¥20.
- 12 Chateau de Woody Guest House (500 m past Sean's), ☏ +86 139-8875-6901, +86 139-8877-0341, +86 13988745996. Newer rooms have hot showers and large beds. The paved courtyard overlooks the gorge, and Chinese and Western food is available. The host speaks some English. dorm: ¥15-30, double with/without bathroom: ¥180-320.
- 13 Luke Youth Hostel (formerly named Walnut Garden Youth Hostel) (one hour walk above Sean's), ☏ +86 135-0887-9892, +86 180-6521-5732. The highest guest house in the Walnut Grove area, at 2,360 m, with extensive views. The hostel provides access to two more difficult side trails and can arrange guides. The Bamboo Forest Path (竹林小路; about 2½ hr) connects the hostel with the high trail above Middle Gorge. Its lower end is signed about 20 minutes' walk above Tina's. The steep route passes small waterfalls, a ledge negotiated with a rope or cable and a stream crossed on an inclined ladder before following an aqueduct for a couple of kilometres; a guide is advisable for inexperienced hikers. The Walnut Forest Path leads from the hostel to Ennu Village (恩怒村; about 7 hr), passing the "Thousand Year Walnut Forest" (千年核桃林; about 30 minutes from the hostel) and the exposed "Empty Glad Platform" (空欢喜观景台; a further 40 minutes uphill). These landmarks offer shorter out-and-back options; allow additional time for the return. Beyond the viewpoint the trail reaches around 3,200 m, becoming less well maintained and less clearly marked before descending to Ennu. There is no public accommodation in Ennu; arrange any overnight stay in a private residence through the hostel before setting out. The older route description refers to paint blazes, but do not rely on these alone. OpenTopoMap shows parts of the surrounding trail network; carry an offline map and check the route with the hostel.
Tiger Leaping Gorge ends several kilometres east of Walnut Grove, but hikers can continue to 4 Haba Village (哈巴村), at the base of Haba Snow Mountain. The roughly ten-hour walk gains about 1,200 m, passing Benxi Village (本习村) on paved roads before continuing on sometimes obscure forest paths, with a possible stretch of paved road north of Ennu Village. Transport can be arranged to the top of the paved road above Benxi, saving about three hours of walking and reducing exposure to stone fall east of Walnut Grove, particularly in windy weather. Hikers with good map-reading skills can attempt the route independently; otherwise, hiring a guide is advisable. From Ennu Village, the remaining walk to Haba takes about three hours.
From Walnut Grove, follow the low road towards 5 Daju for about three hours, passing a small settlement before paths descend towards the ferry crossings on the Yangtze River. The road is subject to rockfall, especially in windy conditions, and is continually changing due to construction, so arranging vehicle transport through a guesthouse may be preferable and hikers should ask locals for the current route to Daju if necessary. Older accounts describe a year-round crossing and a seasonal "winter ferry", with the latter suspended in July, August and September because of high water. Confirm that a crossing is operating, its location and the onward transfer before leaving Walnut Grove; do not rely on the old schedules, fares or roadside signs. After crossing the river, a short but steep climb leads to the car park at the top of the cliff, from where Daju is about 8 km away by foot or minivan.
Stay safe
[edit | edit source]Avoid the trek during heavy rain or after substantial recent rainfall, as landslides are a significant danger in the rainy season and cascades may become swollen and difficult to cross. The descent from the Halfway Lodge area towards Tina's is steep and can become slippery, so it should not be attempted after dark. Road sections east of Walnut Grove and towards Daju are also exposed to rockfall, particularly in windy weather. Conditions on the less-travelled routes can change, and guesthouses may give conflicting advice, so check current trail conditions before attempting the river route or one of the more difficult side trails.
Go next
[edit | edit source]From Tiger Leaping Gorge, travellers can continue north to Haba, a village at the base of Haba Snow Mountain, and onward to Shangrila. Haba can be reached on foot from Walnut Grove or by minibus arranged through Tina's or Sean's guesthouse, with the road journey taking roughly 1½ hours. Accommodation is available in Haba; check onward bus departures to Shangrila locally. Another option is to continue east to Daju, crossing the Yangtze by ferry; Daju is a quiet town and a possible endpoint for the longer trek, with onward transport towards Lijiang. Allow about three hours for the road journey from Daju to Lijiang, and confirm bus or minivan availability in advance rather than relying on the old reports of two buses a day. Travellers finishing at Middle Gorge or Walnut Grove can instead return by minivan towards Qiaotou and Lijiang. Confirm whether a quoted minivan fare is per person or for the whole vehicle, and arrange any luggage-collection stop before departure.

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