The Tiger Leaping Gorge trek (虎跳峡; Pinyin: Hǔ Tiào Xiá), near Lijiang in Yunnan, is a mountain hike through some of the most naturally beautiful and diverse landscapes China has to offer. The high trail runs along the northern side of the gorge, passing quiet villages, shady forest, exposed mountainsides and verdant terraced farmland. The snow-covered peaks of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (玉龙雪山; Yùlóng Xuěshān; 5,596 m) and Haba Snow Mountain (哈巴雪山; Hābā Xuěshān; 5,396 m) rise on either side of the gorge.
The main hike runs from Changsheng Village, near the former trailhead at Qiaotou, towards Walnut Grove. Road transport is used to reach and leave the trail, and visitors who do not want to undertake the high trail can also see part of the gorge by road and a paved walking route.
Understand
[edit | edit source]Tiger Leaping Gorge lies between Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and Haba Snow Mountain in northwestern Yunnan. The high trail traverses the northern side of the gorge well above the Yangtze River, moving from the wider valley around Qiaotou into increasingly dramatic mountain terrain.
The trail formerly started in Qiaotou itself, but construction and a new highway have shifted the practical trailhead about 3 km farther east to Changsheng Village. From there, the route climbs up and over a ridge and down to the village with Naxi Guesthouse. Then up and over the 28 Bends ridge to the village with Tea Horse Guesthouse. Then level or downhill to HalfWay Guesthouse and down to Tina's. So, the trail moves from remote semi-jungle, up through villages and farmland before traversing the steep mountainside above the gorge. As of 2026, most people seem to skip the Changsheng to Naxi ridge, but it is fantastic and pastoral, and you may see no other trekkers or tourists. At the end of the high trail, Tina's Guesthouse, where the high trail meets the road, is a convenient end and transport point but need not be the end of the hike: hikers can descend into the middle gorge and continue towards Walnut Grove (a few kilometers further down the road from Tina's).
The hike requires reasonable fitness and hiking experience. There are steep ascents and descents, including the well-known 28 switchbacks, and some sections are exposed. Wet weather can make the trail slippery and increase the danger from landslides and swollen cascades. The main high trail does not require technical climbing equipment, but some optional side trails are considerably more difficult.
An open-ended ticket to the trail was ¥45 as of February 2024, with reduced admission for students under 25 and half-price admission for seniors over 60. There are reports that the two sides of the gorge may require different tickets.
Prepare
[edit | edit source]Almost everything along the route can be paid for with Alipay or WeChat, so carrying large amounts of cash is generally unnecessary now. There are a few ATMs in Qiaotou, although they are likely to accept only Chinese bank cards.
Maps showing distances and guesthouse locations are available from the ticket office. Arrange storage for luggage you do not need on the hike before setting out, and confirm where and when you will collect it. Jane's Tibetan Guesthouse in Qiaotou has offered luggage storage; if leaving bags there, ask whether your onward transport can stop for collection.
The high trail is a mountain footpath and hikers should expect to carry their own belongings. Near the most difficult part of the trail, around the 28 switchbacks, local men with horses or donkeys may offer to carry hikers for ¥150–300 or baggage for about ¥50.
The high trail is normally walked over two days, with an overnight stop in Bendiwan; a slower itinerary can be spread over three days. Walking times are approximate and exclude extended stops and side trips. It reaches the road at Middle Gorge, from where hikers can descend to the river and/or continue to Walnut Grove.
Eat
[edit | edit source]There are numerous family-run guesthouses along the high trail, many of which serve freshly cooked meals, so hikers using the standard route do not normally need to carry a camping stove.
There are occasional vendors selling fruit, water and beer, and a shop between Naxi Family Guesthouse and the highest part of the trail sells various supplies. Do not depend on shops or vendors being open in the low season; bring sufficient supplies from Qiaotou or another starting point.
Drink
[edit | edit source]Before leaving Lijiang, Qiaotou or Daju, make sure you have enough drinking water for the first part of the hike. Water is sold at guesthouses and by occasional vendors along the trail. Guesthouses have charged around ¥5 for a 1.5-litre bottle, although prices may change.
Do not rely on shops or vendors being present outside the main season.
Sleep
[edit | edit source]Numerous family-run guesthouses are conveniently spaced along the trail. Prices rise during peak periods, but outside those times accommodation can be inexpensive and quiet. There is normally no need to carry a tent when following the standard guesthouse-to-guesthouse route.
Qiaotou has a handful of hotels and can be useful for an overnight stay before an early start. Starting around midday leaves enough time for many hikers to reach Naxi Family Guesthouse, while faster walkers can continue farther along the trail.
Climate
[edit | edit source]Tiger Leaping Gorge generally has a mild climate, with abundant rainfall and plenty of sunshine, although temperatures can vary substantially during a single day. The average annual temperature is between about 13°C and 20°C.
March and April are among the best months for hiking, with comfortable weather and daytime temperatures reaching about 20°C, while May is warmer and brings more blooming flowers. June to September is the rainy season, with temperatures generally around 10–26°C; heavy rain can cause landslides and occasionally close the gorge. From around mid-autumn through November, conditions are usually dry and sunny. Winter is also often sunny, dry and clear, with temperatures around 5–15°C, although mornings and nights can be cold.
Check the weather forecast and current trail conditions before setting out, and bring warm layers for chilly mornings and evenings. The hike can be undertaken throughout much of the year in suitable conditions, but avoid it during heavy rain or after substantial recent rainfall.
Get in
[edit | edit source]Most travellers arrive via the gateway town of Qiaotou (桥头) before transferring to one of the trailheads or gorge viewpoints below, or take private transport straight from Lijiang or Shangrila. Cyclists and motorists arriving from Shangrila can also take the quieter, scenic paved road via Haba. Unless noted otherwise, all transport and tour prices below are from 2026; guided group trips from Lijiang cost about ¥500 (including transport, one night's accommodation, and entry fees, excluding food).
- 1 Qiaotou (former starting point of the trek) (桥头) is the main public-transport drop-off point, though road construction has shifted the actual walking start 3 km uphill to Changsheng Village. You can get dropped off here via morning buses from Lijiang (every 30–60 minutes, 2–2½ hours, ¥24–33; passport may be required) or buses from Shangrila bound for Lijiang, Dali, or Kunming (roughly hourly, ~¥30). In Lijiang, a taxi from the train station to the main bus station costs about ¥15. Buy a bus ticket only as far as Qiaotou, as pricier "Tiger Leaping Gorge" tickets may take you past the trailhead. From Qiaotou, arrange a short local ride up to Changsheng Village or Naxi Family Guesthouse.
- 2 Tiger Leaping Trek Starting Point, Changsheng Village 长胜村 (~3 km up the mountain road from Qiaotou) is the current start of the high trail. Because most hikers now skip ahead to Naxi Family Guesthouse, the Changsheng ridge remains quiet even in high season. From Lijiang Old Town, a direct DiDi to Changsheng costs ¥200–250, while private minivans at the station charge ¥400–500; if your driver takes the new bridges across the gorge directly into Changsheng, you may avoid the entry fee. From the drop-off point, walk east/northeast toward the large bridge spanning the gorge to reach the trailhead at a set of concrete steps, where local Naxi guides offer donkeys up to Naxi Family Guesthouse for ¥200–300. The high trail is marked with faded blue signs and blue or yellow tape—follow these carefully up the ridge to avoid dead-end livestock paths.
- Naxi Family Guesthouse, on the far side of the first ridge, is a popular alternative starting point reached by private transport from Qiaotou or Lijiang. Starting here saves about 1½ hours of walking and 300 m of ascent from Changsheng, though it bypasses the uncrowded opening ridge and its views of the valley and new highway and railway bridges. A registration tent sits just past the guesthouse.
- Upper Tiger Leaping Gorge (along with other villages on the gorge road) is accessible directly by road for visitors who want to see the gorge without hiking the high trail. The south-side road leads to a parking area, where an easy paved path with wooden walkways and steps descends to the Upper Tiger Leaping Stone. Direct morning buses from Lijiang Bus Terminal to the stone have previously departed at 08:30 and 09:30, returning at 14:30 and 15:30.
Walk
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The Changsheng Village trailhead was marked by Trekking Tour Starting Point Family House (高路徒步起点民居) in February 2024, and is still looking about the same in 2026. From the trailhead, it climbs for roughly 1½ hours and gains about 300 m before descending on the other side of the ridge a bit and reaching Nuoyu (诺于), where Naxi Family Guesthouse is located. If you hike this section, take care to follow the blue signs and trail tape (yellow or blue). You could easily get lost on the livestock trails on the side of the mountain and end-up walking through terrifying and massive spider webs. This section of the high trail is not hiked as much as the later sections, and so it is a quieter opening section that has great views over the broad valley before the route officially enters the gorge, as well as views of the new highway and railway bridges.
Shortly after Naxi Family Guesthouse is the ticket office or registration tent. Beyond Nuoyu, the trail climbs towards the 28 bends / steep switchbacks, the most demanding ascent on the standard high route. Local men with horses or donkeys wait near this section and may offer to carry hikers or their bags for a fee of ¥200-300 .
After the climb, the trail continues high on the mountainside, with beautiful views across the gorge and towards the surrounding mountains. About 3 hours after leaving Naxi Family Guesthouse, you reach Tea-Horse Trade Guesthouse (the next village). Tea-Horse Trade Guesthouse seems to be the best place to stop if you are starting from Changsheng. It also has a very social rooftop bar with great views and a choice of old-fashioned cheap rooms or modernized picture-window rooms.
From the Tea Horse Trade Guesthouse, the trail levels out with sweeping gorge views, attracting far more day-hikers than earlier sections. Continue for about 1½ hours to 3 Bendiwan, a convenient overnight stop for fit hikers completing the high trail in two days (especially those who started at Naxi Family Guesthouse). Family Inn is the first accommodation you reach, followed within a few minutes by Come Inn, Judy's Guest House, and Halfway Lodge; the latter's famous viewing terrace draws heavy crowds and may charge an entry fee to non-guests.
- 1 Jane's Tibetan Guesthouse, Qiaotou (near the former trailhead; arrange a transfer to the starting point), ☏ +86 887 8806570. Tibetan-style guesthouse with a restaurant. Maps, luggage storage and transport from Tina's have been available; confirm current arrangements and storage charges directly. English may be limited.
- 2 Naxi Family Guesthouse, ☏ +86 8878806928, +86 13988758424. A range of neat rooms looking into the central courtyard. Basic shared washing facilities with warmish showers and nice garden views from the toilet. Good-value freshly cooked Western/Chinese food made with locally grown produce (try the pumpkin). Very authentic feel, great alternative to staying in Qiaotou. Pickup by Jeep or horse and reservations can be made in advance. dorm: ¥20, double/twin: ¥40, double with bathroom: ¥70 (prices are probably old).
- 3 Tea-Horse Trade Guesthouse, ☏ +86 13988717292, +86 13988707922. Friendly atmosphere and very tasty food with a large menu, freshly cooked by the owners' children. Affordable massages (¥50/hour, though they aren't always available). Toilets are outside, Chinese-style, without doors, so bring your own toilet paper. Smaller than Halfway, with about 20 rooms. No heaters in the rooms and the mattresses are thin, but there are thick warm blankets. Double or twin room ¥50, shared bathroom, ¥120 for double or twin ensuite, triple bed room ¥90.
- 4 Family Inn, ☏ +86 187-8768-1717, +86 187-0887-1110, +86 133-2043-6598. The first guest house in Bendiwan Village when hiking from the west.
- 5 Come Inn, ☏ +86 18183853151, 641589921@qq.com. Small and cozy guesthouse, quieter than Halfway but with a similar view. The owner/manager Jerry speaks very good English. ¥45 for dorm beds, ¥160 double ensuite.
- 6 Judy's Guest House, ☏ +86 131-1690-4899, +86 153-3143-3900. Guest house opened in autumn 2019 a short distance from Halfway Lodge.
- 7 Halfway Lodge, ☏ +86 133-6884-4698, +86 131-7079-5128. Large and popular guesthouse with simple rooms, food and good views. Its "Inspiration Point" dining area and unusual "scenic toilet" overlook Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. It can be noisy. If arriving late, stay here rather than continuing towards Middle Gorge after dark. The lodge owner, Feng De Fang (冯德芳), speaks English, as does his son Feng Jiang Hui (冯将辉). ¥40 for dorm beds. ¥90 double no en suite, ¥150 double ensuite.

From Bendiwan, the high trail continues along the mountainside before descending towards Middle Gorge. About 20 minutes after leaving Halfway Lodge, you reach Five Fingers Mountain Guest House, around 30 m above the trail.
From Five Fingers, allow roughly another 1 hour 40 minutes to reach Middle Gorge. The descent can be slippery and steep and should not be attempted after dark; there are exposed sections without barriers where a fall from the mountainside would be and has been deadly.
The trail reaches the road at Middle Gorge beside Tina's Guesthouse. This is a convenient place to finish the standard high-trail trek and return towards Lijiang or continue by road. Hikers with more time can instead descend into Middle Gorge and continue towards Walnut Grove (about 3 km down the road).
- 8 Five Fingers Mountain Guest House, ☏ +86 13988776286. A traditional Yunnan farmstead around 30 m above the trail, offering basic but clean rooms with shared hot showers. It is a quieter alternative to the better-known guesthouses, with excellent views from the courtyard and rooms. Meals are available.
- 9 Tina's Youth Hostel, ☏ +86 887 8202258. More than a youth hostel, with twin, double and triple rooms. There is hot water, wifi and heating pads. There is a cafe upstairs from the dining room. Transport towards Qiaotou and Lijiang can be arranged; confirm departures and book tickets in the morning. If collecting stored luggage in Qiaotou, arrange the stop when booking.
From Middle Gorge, steep trails descend towards the Jinsha River and Tiger Leaping Rock. The two main routes are Tianti, the "Heavenly Ladder", and Teacher Zhang's trail. Both are locally maintained and have charged separate access fees, additional to the main gorge ticket. Using one route down and the other up may mean paying twice; the downstream path and some viewpoints may also charge separately. Confirm fees and which paths are open before descending.
At the bottom, hikers can visit the river and Tiger Leaping Rock before either climbing back to the road or continuing downstream towards Walnut Grove. The downstream route, known as the Ray of Sunshine or Yixiantian trail (一线天), follows the river through a dramatic section cut into the sheer cliff before gradually climbing towards Walnut Grove. Parts of the trail are exposed, and conditions should be checked locally before setting out.
Two challenging side trails branch off near Luke Youth Hostel. The steep Bamboo Forest Path (竹林小路; about 2½ hr) connects the hostel with the high trail above Middle Gorge, with its lower end signed about 20 minutes' walk above Tina's. Marked with yellow arrows, the little-used route leads through bamboo past small waterfalls and pools, a ledge negotiated with a rope or cable, and a stream crossed on an inclined wooden ladder before following an aqueduct for a couple of kilometres; it is absent from many maps, so ask locally about conditions and consider hiring a guide if you are inexperienced. The Walnut Forest Path leads from the hostel to Ennu Village (恩怒村; about 7 hr), passing the "Thousand Year Walnut Forest" (千年核桃林; 30 minutes from the hostel) and the exposed "Empty Glad Platform" (空欢喜观景台; a further 40 minutes uphill), both of which make shorter out-and-back options. Beyond the viewpoint, the trail reaches around 3,200 m and becomes poorly maintained and less clearly marked before descending to Ennu, which has no public accommodation—arrange a homestay through the hostel before setting out.
- 10 Tibet Guest House, ☏ +86 13988740050. Run by a Tibetan family since it opened in May 2006. Price ¥20-100. Hot water 24 hours. Tibetan, Western and Chinese meals are available. ¥20.
- 11 Sean's Spring Guest House, ☏ +86 158-9436-7846, +86 158-9436-5138. The ancient owner, Sean, and his daughter, Rosie, speak English. Private rooms have 24-hour hot water and heating, but are old fashioned. Food and beer are available. A minibus to Haba can be booked here. dorm ¥20; old privates ¥150/200.
- 12 Chateau de Woody Guest House (500 m past Sean's), ☏ +86 139-8875-6901, +86 139-8877-0341, +86 13988745996. Newer rooms have hot showers and large beds. The paved courtyard overlooks the gorge, and Chinese and Western food is available. The host speaks some English. dorm: ¥15-30, double with/without bathroom: ¥180-320.
- 13 Luke Youth Hostel (formerly named Walnut Garden Youth Hostel) (one hour walk above Sean's), ☏ +86 135-0887-9892, +86 180-6521-5732. The highest guest house in the Walnut Grove area, at 2,360 m, with extensive views. The hostel provides access to two more difficult side trails and can arrange guides.
Stay safe
[edit | edit source]Avoid the trek during or immediately after heavy rain, as the rainy season brings a serious risk of landslides, rockfall, and swollen, impassable cascades. Road and trail sections east of Walnut Grove towards Daju are also prone to rockfall, especially in windy weather. The steep, slippery descent from the Halfway Lodge area towards Tina's should not be attempted after dark. Because conditions on the river route and side trails change frequently—and guesthouses sometimes give conflicting advice—verify current trail conditions locally before setting out. Overgrown sections, particularly along the Changsheng ridge, often have large orb-weaver spiders strung across the path; they are harmless to humans, so stick to the marked trail to avoid walking into webs.
Go next
[edit | edit source]Travellers finishing at Middle Gorge or Walnut Grove can return by minivan towards Qiaotou and Lijiang; confirm whether a quoted fare is per person or per vehicle, and arrange any luggage pick-up before departure.
From Walnut Grove, travellers can continue north to 4 Haba Village (哈巴村), at the base of Haba Snow Mountain, and onward to Shangrila. Haba is a 1½-hour minibus ride arranged through Tina's or Sean's guesthouse, or a roughly ten-hour walk via Benxi (本习村) and Ennu villages on paved roads and obscure forest paths (hiring a guide is advisable). Taking transport to the end of the paved road above Benxi saves about three hours of walking and avoids rockfall east of Walnut Grove. Haba has accommodation and local buses to Shangrila.
Alternatively, continue east to 5 Daju and onward to Lijiang (about 3 hours by road). From Walnut Grove, a 3 hr walk along the low road leads to the Yangtze ferry crossings, though construction and rockfall make guesthouse transport preferable. Because crossings may be suspended during high water (July–September), confirm that a ferry is running, its location, and onward transfers before leaving Walnut Grove. From the opposite bank, a short, steep climb reaches a cliff-top car park, 8 km from Daju on foot or by minivan.

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