Tlalnepantla

Tlalnepantla is a suburb of Mexico City about 10 km east of the Centro Historico on the edge of Mexico State. Today, it is an industrial and residential area visited by few foreign tourists, though it does have important historical sites that a serious student of Mexican history and archaeology will want to explore.

Tlalnepantla

Understand

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Tlalnepantla (occasionally called Tlalnepantla de Baz by pompous local officials and hair-splitting Wikipedia editors to distinguish it from Tlalnepantla, Morelos), but foreigners usually refer to it as Tlalnepantla. Chilangos usually call if Tlalne and hip younger residents call it Portlan. Whatever you call it, know that it was settled before 1000 AD by Mesoamerican cultures first, by the Amaquemecan, then later by other cultures including the Toltec and the Chichimeca. The archaeological site of Tenayuca was the largest capital city of the Chichimec people. It was built around 1100 AD.

During the colonial era, Spanish conquistadors conquered Mesoamerican cultures across Mexico. In Tlalnepantal, change came in 1550 when Franciscan missionaries moved in and enslaved indigenous people to dismantle the historic structures of Tenayuca and use the stones to build their Eurocentric settlement. Over the next two centuries they would expand their economic power by building haciendas as agricultural centers. During the 20th century, the Tlalnepantla became heavily industrialized and the population shifted from an indigenous agrarian population to a predominantly working class mestizo population of blue-collar factory workers.

Get in

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Map
Map of Tlalnepantla
Tren Suburbano in the Tlalnepantla Station

From downtown Mexico City use Metro or Metrobus to Buenavista. Inside the Buenavista train terminal you can purchase a farecard for the Tren Suburbano (Metro farecards are not valid on Tren Suburbano). Board the train going toward Cuautitlán. Get off the train at Tlalnepantla.

The evening rush hour (hora pica) starts at about 17:00 and doesn't die down until after 20:00. Taxis and Uber rides can become quite expensive and easily take twice as long as using Tren Suburbano.

  • 19.536862-99.1840421 Tlalnepantla Station, Av. Chilpancingo, Patios de Ffcc infraestructura. Clean, safe train station with access to local bus routes. OSM directions

Get around

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Tlalnepantla is a large municipality where walking is impractical and can be unsafe. Uber and Didi are the best way to get around, but be sure to use specific destination names and addresses so you are not left having to walk through unfamiliar areas.

Catedral de Corpus Christi
  • 19.529266-99.2314691 Museo Hacienda de Santa Mónica, Ignacio Manuel Altamirano 3. Sun 11:00 - 17:00, closed Mon-Sat. Early 16th-century hacienda that was sold to the Augustinian monks in 1573. It was used for growing, milling, and storing grains. In 1947, it was purchased by Antonio Haghenbeck y de la Lama who sold off most of the land, preserving only 2 hectares as a fruit orchard and garden. He restored the main house to its viceregal glory with opulent furnishings, a grand staircase and fireplace, chandeliers and rustic iron and wood details. The house museum is only open for public tours on Sundays; it is particularly known for its collection of historic clocks. The hacienda is a popular venue for weddings and corporate events. OSM directions
  • 19.507828-99.1673052 Ex-Hacienda de Enmedio, Av. Ex-Hacienda de Enmedio 1. Tue-Sun 09:00 - 18:00, closed Mon. Beautifully maintained and restored 18th-century hacienda built of cantera (pink granite) with rustic high ceilings (as much as 6 meters high, so as to accommodate visiting giraffes. Manicured courtyard gardens provide a tranquil oasis in a very urban neighborhood. The hacienda is frequently used as an event venue for weddings and corporate functions and has been frequently used as a movie set and location for filming Mexican soap operas (telenovelas). Visitors are welcome and guided tours available. OSM directions
  • 19.538059-99.1950023 Catedral de Corpus Christi (Cathedral of the Body of Christ, Tlalnepantla Cathedral), Av. Presidente Juarez 42. It looks like an old Spanish baroque cathedral, but don't let looks fool you. The modern cathedral was built in the early 1960s and consecrated in 1964. Despite the modernity, it really does have historic roots. The original monastery was built on this site by Franciscan missionaries in 1525, but it suffered a fire in 1666 and was re-built. Many of the stones used to construct the various churches were scavenged from indigenous structures (especially temples because the Spanish wanted to send a message to the indigenous communities that "our God can whoop your God". If you visit the cathedral, examine some of the stones and see if you can spot some of the old glyphs that were etched into the rocks by ancient hands. OSM directions
  • 19.553788-99.1773934 Santa Cecilia Acatitlan, Calle Circuito Pirámide.. Tue-Sun 10ː00 - 17ː00, closed Mon. Archaeological site of the Toltec and Aztec cultures featuring a restored basement and reconstructed pyramid with a large staircase leading to a rare example of a restored top temple. Most of the original pyramid was destroyed during the colonial era as conquistadors used stone blocks from the temple to build the 16th century parish church. The site is administered by the Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia (INAH), which opened the site to the public in 1961. Santa Cecilia Acatitlan includes a Site Museum that displays ceramic and stone relics from the site and has displays explaining the Mexica culture. The museum also has rooms with period furnishings depicting how local Haciendas and upper-class homes would have looked during the times of the Mexican Revolution. M$85. OSM directions

Tenayuca

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Tenayuca is a cool archaeological site that's off the usual tourist path. It was the first capital city of the Chichimec indigenous culture, having been established in 1224 AD under the leadership of Xolotl. The city was absorbed into It is well maintained and easy to explore with paved walkways and ample signage (in Spanish).

Pyramid at Tenayuca
  • 19.532396-99.1684775 Tenayuca, Av. Gran Piramide, Manzana 006. Daily 09ː00 - 17ː00. M$145. OSM directions

Highlights of the site includeː

• Great Double Pyramid (Gran Piramide): Large stepped pyramid featuring twin staircases and shrines originally dedicated to Tláloc (god of rain) and Huitzilopochtli (god of war). This design inspired the layout of the Templo Mayor (in Centro Historico).

Coatepantil - wall surrounded by sculptures of snake heads

• Serpent Wall (Coatepantli): Surrounding the base of the pyramid is low stone wall decorated with several hundred carved stone serpent heads (many featuring Xiuhcoatl, the fire serpent).

• Xiuhcoatl Altars and Tzompantli: There are several stone altars near the pyramid, with more carved fire-serpent sculptures, and a nearby tzompantli (skull rack).

• Site Museum: A small local museum features a scale model of the site, infographics and maps, and pre-Hispanic artifacts recovered at the site.

Santa Cecilia Acatitlán

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Santa Cecilia Acatitlán is generally regarded as an outpost of the more significant settlement at Tenayuca though there is evidence of a large pyramid having been at the site (the current pyramid is a smaller reproduction of the previous temple, it is not authentic or even historically accurate). During the colonial era, the site and surrounding area was part of a pulque hacienda owned by Eusebio Davalos, to whom the site museum is dedicated.

  • 19.552753-99.1734686 Santa Cecilia Acatitlán Archaeological Zone, Tula Manzana 022, Sta Cecilia Acatitlan. Tues-Sun 10ː00 - 17ː00, closed Mon. Small archaeological site with a reconstructed temple pyramid built in 1962. (Spanish conquistadors destroyed the original pyramid and used the stones to construct the adjacent St Cecilia Chapel, which is quite beauiful). There is a small site museum with historical exhibits and a few relics excavated from the site and there is a small tranquil garden. Not a lot to see but it gives you a tiny taste of what you'll see at larger sites in the region. M$145. OSM directions
  • 19.564178-99.2055011 Parque Temático Mini Mundos, Huertas 171, Tequexquinahuacrivera del Bosque. Clean, modern, well-maintained theme park featuring scale reproductions of famous landmarks from around the world. A miniature train ride can be used to get around the park, or you can ride an aerial cable car. Model landmarks include the Eiffel Tower, the Coliseum of Rome, the Sydney Opera House and of course famous Mexican landmarks like Mayan pyramids and the Angel of Independence. Free. OSM directions
  • 19.575039-99.236942 Teatro Zaragoza, Calz. S. Mateo s/n, ☏ +52 55 5824 0078. Casual local theatre hosting community cultural events including contemporary and classical theatre works. Large parking lots. Kids play area. OSM directions
  • 19.547082-99.1929231 Mercado de Tlalnepantla, Ignacio Allende, Manzana 012, Hab la Romana. Daily 08ː00 - 20ː00. Big traditional marketplace with a huge variety of inexpensive fruits, vegetables, meats, breads and more. Several vendors serving homemade regional dishes including carnitas and huazontles. OSM directions
  • 19.523924-99.2115061 Tierra Nuestra, Calle Cto. Viveros del Sur 72, ☏ +52 55 6650 4428. Daily 08ː30 - 18ː00. Casual family-friendly atmosphere, serves traditional Mexican cuisine. Combo plates (paquetes) include sweet rolls, juice and coffee. Good enchiladas, chilaquiles and pozole. M$250. OSM directions
  • 19.524735-99.2276232 Sonora Grill Mundo E, Perif. Blvd. Manuel Ávila Camacho 1007, ☏ +52 55 5366 9520. Daily 13ː00 - 23ː00. Upscale casual dining with contemporary decor and traditional Mexican cuisine specializing in grilled meats. Full bar with large cocktails. M$500. OSM directions
  • 19.520286-99.2173233 Las Enchis, Calle Viveros de Asís 108, ☏ +52 55 5881 0086. Daily 09ː00 - 18ː00. Casual eatery specializing in enchiladas with a focus on the many regional variations (particularly from Oaxaca, where Mexico's most creative cuisine is usually found). M$250. OSM directions

Drink

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  • 19.542236-99.2155771 Terraza Karaoke Sentura, Perif. Blvd. Manuel Ávila Camacho 1434, San Andres Atenco, ☏ +52 55 8237 4164. Wed-Sat 17ː00 - 03ː00. Popular karaoke dance terrace that frequently hosts bachlorette parties and groups of young people looking to dance and get drunk on cheap shots. OSM directions
  • 19.543773-99.2125732 Bar la Fuente, Perif. Blvd. Manuel Ávila Camacho 3043, ☏ +52 55 5390 2291. Wed - Sat 21ː00 - 04ː00. Dance club with DJs spinning Colombian-style cumbias and salsa. OSM directions

Sleep

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  • 19.550206-99.2069941 Real Inn, Vía Dr. Gustavo Baz 4001, ☏ +52 55 5321 5800. Check-in: 15ː00, check-out: 12ː00. Cookie cutter business hotel with limited amenities but clean and comfortable rooms. On-site restaurant serves a good breakfast. OSM directions
  • 19.54414-99.2064792 Ibiza Plaza Hotel, Av. Dr. Gustavo Baz 66, ☏ +52 55 5565 1228. Check-in: 15ː00, check-out: 12ː00. Moderate hotel with clean, comfortable rooms that include air conditioning and smart TVs, some rooms have jacuzzi tubs. Off-street parking available. On-site restaurant serves a good buffet breakfast. M$900. OSM directions
  • 19.538963-99.2038183 Crowne Plaza Mexico Norte Tlalnepantla, Calle Roberto Fulton 2, ☏ +52 55 5228 9500. Check-in: 15ː00, check-out: 13ː00. Large upscale business-oriented hotel with conference and event spaces. Rooms are large, clean, comfortable and well equipped with AC, smart TV, and room safe. On-site restaurant and bar available. M$2000. OSM directions

Stay safe

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Tlalnepantla is not a touristy area. It is an industrial and working-class urban residential area. The tourist sites are generally safe during the day, but travelers are advised not to stray into unfamiliar neighborhoods. It is best to be discreet and avoid flashy or extravagant clothing. Use ride-share apps like Uber or Didi to get around and avoid hailing taxis or using peseros (small local buses).

Connect

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Broadband internet is available throughout Tlalnepantla and WiFi is available in most hotels, restaurants, and other businesses. Cell towers cover 100% of the city with 5G service everywhere. Telcel is the major carrier.

Go next

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This city travel guide to Tlalnepantla is a usable article. It has information on how to get there and on restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please feel free to improve it by editing the page.