The Tour du Mont Blanc or TMB is one of the most popular long distance walks in Europe. It circles the Mont Blanc Massif covering a distance of roughly 170 km with 10 km of ascent and passes through parts of Switzerland, Italy and France.
Understand
[edit | edit source]It is considered one of the classic long distance walking trails. The circular route is normally walked in an anti-clockwise direction in 7 to 10 days. It is also the route of an annual mountain marathon in which the winner normally covers the entire distance in less than 24 hours. Usual start points are Les Houches in the Chamonix valley or Les Contamines in the Montjoie valley (in France), Courmayeur from the Italian side, and either Champex or a point near Martigny in Switzerland. The route passes through seven valleys around the Mont-Blanc massif, an anti-clockwise start in Chamonix would lead through the Chamonix (or Arve) valley, then Montjoie, Vallee des Glaciers, Italian Val Veni, & Val Ferret, Swiss Val Ferret, and either the Arpette or Trient valley in Switzerland, dependent on route taken.
The ‘official’ route has changed over the course of the years and many alternatives, or ‘Variantes’, exist to the standard route. Some of these take the intrepid walker onto paths requiring greater fitness, awareness and skill. Others provide conveniently less demanding options, which are often quicker than the accepted route but provide lesser viewpoints onto the mountain ranges. For a part of the way, between the summit of Brevent and the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme, the route coincides with the European long distance footpath GR5 as it makes its way from the North Sea to the Mediterranean Sea. A link can also be made with the Walker's Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt in the Swiss Alps.
The highest points on any variant of the trail are the Col des Fours in France and the Fenetre d'Arpette in Switzerland, both at an altitude of 2,665m (8,743 ft). Although, for most, this is not high enough to cause altitude sickness, the trail nevertheless represents a tough physical proposition. Experience of walking in mountain country should be considered vital. In addition the weather can change very rapidly indeed and one should always be suitably equipped for the challenge.
Prepare
[edit | edit source]No permits are required, but you must carry a passport to cross the borders of France, Italy, and Switzerland. The route is a demanding alpine trek with steep, rocky climbs that are unsuitable for wheelchairs, strollers, or carts. While you can carry your own gear, many hikers use professional luggage transport services to move bags between hotels and refuges, allowing them to hike with only a daypack. Sturdy boots and trekking poles are essential for the constant elevation changes.
Eat
[edit | edit source]You don't need to haul a week of rations or a heavy stove across the Alps. The TMB is a "civilized" trek where most hikers rely on the excellent half-board service at mountain refuges, which includes a multi-course dinner and breakfast. During the day, trailside buvettes and restaurants serve hot meals, while supermarkets in valley towns like Courmayeur or Les Contamines allow you to restock on local cheese and bread. If you are camping, you will generally need your own lightweight stove, though some organized campsites offer basic communal kitchen facilities.
Drink
[edit | edit source]Hydration is manageable with a standard 2-liter capacity. Potable water is readily available at every refuge and from village fountains, which are typically fed by clean mountain springs unless marked eau non-potable. While the wild streams look inviting, they often flow through high-altitude grazing lands for cattle and sheep; consequently, you should use a filter or purification tablets if drawing water from the trail. Avoid grey, silty glacial meltwater entirely, as the fine sediment is difficult to filter and can cause stomach distress.
Sleep
[edit | edit source]Plentiful accommodations exist along the entire route, allowing the route to be broken into segments to suit virtually any fit person. The accommodation takes a variety of forms, from separate bedrooms to large mixed sex dormitories. One can normally obtain cooked meals at many of these places. With a start at Les Houches one might expect overnight stops at Les Contamines, Col de la Croix du Bonhomme refuge or Les Chapieux (depending on variant route taken), Elisabetta Soldini refuge, Courmayeur, Elena refuge, Champex, Trient village, Argentiere, La Flegere refuge and finally back to Les Houches. The sheer abundance of accommodation makes for very flexible route-planning and many options exist besides these. Despite this wealth of choice the tremendous popularity of the trail can lead to problems finding accommodations, especially towards the end of the day. It is, however, possible to book accommodation in advance.
Climate
[edit | edit source]The trekking season is narrow, restricted to the summer window between mid-June and mid-September. Expect pleasant valley temperatures, but be prepared for sudden alpine shifts where it can drop toward freezing on high passes or during frequent afternoon thunderstorms. While you can take the route in July and August, early-season hikers in June should carry micro-spikes and poles to navigate lingering snow patches. Outside of these months, the trail is effectively closed to hikers due to heavy snow and significant avalanche risk.
Get in
[edit | edit source]Most hikers begin their journey in the Chamonix Valley, specifically at Les Houches. To get there, fly into Geneva Airport (GVA IATA), which serves as the primary international gateway. From the airport, numerous shared shuttle services and buses can whisk you across the French border to Chamonix in about 90 minutes. Alternatively, you can arrive by train via the Saint-Gervais-les-Bains Le Fayet station, connecting to the scenic Mont Blanc Express. If you prefer to start in Italy or Switzerland, Courmayeur and Champex-Lac are also accessible via regional bus networks.
Walk
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The trail starts from 1 Les Houches, a common starting point for the Tour du Mont Blanc. This is a challenging opening stage with a significant climb out of the Chamonix valley, often using the Col de Voza and the higher Col de Tricot variant before dropping towards the Miage and Montjoie pastures. The day ends at the 1 Refuge du Truc, a mountain refuge set above Les Contamines with broad views over the surrounding alpine meadows.
A shorter and gentler leg of the journey. The path drops towards Les Contamines-Montjoie before continuing up the valley past Notre-Dame de la Gorge, where the route begins to feel more remote and alpine. From there, the trail follows the traditional TMB line towards Nant Borrant and the accommodation at 2 La Balme.
This section requires a solid effort, climbing from the upper Montjoie valley to the Col du Bonhomme and then on towards the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme, one of the classic high crossings on the French side of the circuit. The route then descends towards Les Chapieux and the Vallée des Glaciers, passing pastoral hamlets and open grazing country before reaching 3 Les Mottets.
A longer day of hiking where the route climbs from the Vallée des Glaciers to the Col de la Seigne, the pass that marks the crossing from France into Italy. After the border, the trail descends into Val Veny, with views towards the southern side of the Mont Blanc massif, before climbing again on the Italian side towards the high point at 4 Col de Chercroui.
A brief, predominantly downhill section dropping sharply from the ski area and pastures above Val Veny into the major town of 2 Courmayeur. The descent gives a quick change of scene, leaving the open slopes and balcony trails for the streets, services, and Italian alpine atmosphere of the town.
Short but steep, this leg leaves Courmayeur and climbs rapidly through the slopes above Villair and Val Sapin. The ascent is demanding, but it quickly rewards hikers with expanding views back over Courmayeur and across to the Mont Blanc massif before reaching 5 Rifugio Bertone.
This is a substantial stage with significant elevation changes along one of the great Italian balcony sections of the Tour du Mont Blanc. The route traverses the slopes of Mont de la Saxe high above Val Ferret, with wide views towards the Grandes Jorasses, before descending towards the valley floor and climbing again through the upper valley to 6 Rifugio Elena.
The longest distance of the circuit. From Rifugio Elena the trail climbs to the Grand Col Ferret, the high pass on the Italy-Switzerland border and one of the major landmarks of the TMB. After crossing into Switzerland, the route descends through pastures and the Swiss Val Ferret, continuing through villages and woodland towards the lakeside village of 3 Champex.
A hike featuring a serious climb from Champex. Depending on conditions and chosen route, this stage may follow the demanding Fenêtre d’Arpette variant, a steep and rocky high crossing with boulder fields and close views towards the Trient Glacier, or the lower Bovine route through forest and alpine pasture. The day finishes in the Trient valley at 7 Le Peuty.
Another day with significant elevation gain, climbing from the Trient valley to the Col de Balme, where the route crosses back from Switzerland into France. From the pass, there are broad views towards the Mont Blanc range and the Chamonix valley before the trail descends through open slopes and hamlets to 8 Tre-le-Champ.
A moderate but memorable stage along the Grand Balcon Sud, the high traverse above the Chamonix valley. This part of the route is known for its views across to the Mont Blanc massif and may include short exposed sections with ladders or metal aids, depending on the chosen line. The trail continues to 9 Refuge Flegere.
The closing leg of the loop returns to the start, following the balcony trails above Chamonix before descending through forest, viewpoints, and lower mountain paths towards the valley. The final stretch brings the circuit back to 4 Les Houches, completing the Tour du Mont Blanc loop.
Stay safe
[edit | edit source]The Tour du Mont Blanc is a demanding trek that requires respect for the high-alpine environment. Rapid weather changes are common; even in mid-summer, temperatures can plummet, and snow or thunderstorms can roll in with little warning. Always carry high-quality waterproof gear and check local forecasts (such as Meteo Blue) before crossing high passes. While the trails are well-marked, physical conditioning is vital to prevent fatigue-related injuries on steep descents. Be aware of your limits regarding vertigo on more exposed sections, and ensure you have comprehensive mountain rescue insurance, as helicopter evacuations in the Alps are frequent and expensive.
Go next
[edit | edit source]Once you have completed the loop, you are perfectly positioned to explore more of the Alps. From Chamonix, take the Aiguille du Midi cable car for staggering views of the Mont Blanc summit without the climb. If your legs aren't too tired, you might transition onto the Walker's Haute Route, a legendary trek that leads from Chamonix all the way to Zermatt. For a change of pace, head south to the Vanoise National Park for quieter trails, or take a high-speed train from Annecy to Paris or Lyon to trade rugged peaks for urban culture.

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