Ugljan

Ugljan is an island in Northern Dalmatia, Croatia. It is the closest of the Zadar Archipelago islands to the mainland, lying just across the Zadar Channel from the city of Zadar, and is sometimes called the "Olive Island" for the centuries-old olive groves that cover its hills.

Ugljan is a green, hilly island about 22 km long and up to roughly 4 km wide, with its highest point, Šćah, reaching 286 m. It is one of the more densely populated Croatian islands, with around 6,000 residents spread across a string of villages along its northeastern, Zadar-facing coast. The southern tip is joined to the neighbouring island of Pašman by a short bridge, so the two islands share a single road running their whole length.

Olives have been cultivated here for more than 2,000 years, and olive oil, wine, figs and fishing still shape island life. Compared with better-known Croatian islands, Ugljan sees relatively few tourists and keeps a quiet, authentic feel, which makes it popular with hikers, cyclists and travellers looking for a calm base close to Zadar. In 2016 it was named "Best European Hidden Gem" by the Best European Destinations portal, and locals sometimes call it the "garden of Zadar".

The settlements line up along the coast facing Zadar. From north to south:

• Ugljan — the northernmost village, giving the island its name; near it, at Muline, are the remains of a Roman villa and one of the oldest known olive-oil production sites in the region.
• Lukoran — a small, quiet village with old summer villas of Zadar nobility.
• Sutomišćica — set around a deep, sheltered bay, with a marina.
• Poljana — a low-key village close to Preko.
• Preko — the island's administrative centre and main ferry port. Its name means "across", reflecting its position directly opposite Zadar. Above it stands St. Michael's Fortress, and just offshore is the islet of Galevac.
• Kali — a traditional fishing village with one of the largest fishing fleets in Croatia; a good place to sense working island life.
• Kukljica — the most tourism-oriented settlement, at the southern end, with beaches, a marina and the most restaurants and nightlife.

Ugljan has a typical Mediterranean climate: hot, dry summers and mild, wetter winters. Summer (June–September) is the main travel season; spring and autumn are excellent for walking and cycling.

Regular car ferries run between Zadar (Gaženica) and Preko, taking roughly 20–25 minutes, operated by Jadrolinija. There is also a faster passenger boat from Zadar's old-town waterfront to Preko. Sailings are frequent in summer and reduced off-season.

• Jadrolinija ferry (Zadar–Preko). Car and passenger ferry to Preko, the island's main port. Check the current timetable and fares before travelling. 

From the south you can drive onto Ugljan across the bridge from Pašman. Pašman in turn connects to the mainland via the Tkon–Biograd ferry, making a road-and-ferry loop possible via Biograd na Moru.

A single main road runs the length of the island linking all the villages and continues over the bridge onto Pašman. A car or scooter is the easiest way to explore end to end, but the island is a favourite with cyclists thanks to its quiet roads and network of trails; several campsites, hotels and rental outlets hire out bikes (including e-bikes). A limited local bus connects the villages — check schedules locally. In summer, taxi-boats from Preko run to the islet of Galevac and to nearby beaches.

• 44.071615.16081 St. Michael's Fortress (Tvrđava sv. Mihovila) (Sveti Mihovil) (Hilltop above Preko, reachable on foot or by car). Ruins of a Venetian-era hilltop fortress at about 265 m, offering the finest panorama on the island — a sweeping view over Zadar, the channel and the surrounding archipelago. The classic Ugljan viewpoint, and a popular spot for sunset.  
• Galevac (Školjić) (Small islet just off Preko; taxi-boat from the Preko waterfront). A tiny wooded islet with a 15th-century Franciscan monastery, reached by a short boat ride from Preko. Peaceful, shaded and good for a quiet swim. 
• 44.13333315.0833332 Muline (Near Ugljan village, northern end of the island). Remains of a Roman villa rustica and early Christian complex, including one of the region's oldest known olive-oil production sites.  
• Sutomišćica bay and villas (Sutomišćica). Sheltered bay lined with the old summer residences of Zadar's nobility, with a pleasant waterfront. 

• Hiking and cycling. The island has an extensive network of marked trails (well over 100 km) winding through olive groves, pine woods and coastal paths. A popular route is the climb up to St. Michael's Fortress. Bring sturdy shoes or a mountain bike, as some trails are rough and exposed. 
• Beaches and swimming. Countless pebble and rocky coves line the coast. Popular options include Jelenica near Preko, the pebbly Batalaža and sandy Jaz on the southwest side, the parasol-lined Mostir, and the shallow, family-friendly bay of Velika Sabuša near Kukljica. 
• Boat trips. In summer, operators and campsites arrange day trips to the nearby Kornati and Telašćica nature areas; small boats can also be rented locally. 
• Our Lady of the Snow (Gospa od Snijega) (Kukljica). A traditional maritime procession and festival held in early August in Kukljica, one of the island's liveliest annual events. 

Small supermarkets, bakeries and local shops are found in Preko, Kali and Kukljica; larger stocking-up is easier in Zadar. Look for locally produced olive oil, wine and dried figs, sold direct by producers in several villages.

Family-run taverns (konoba) across the villages serve fresh Adriatic fish and shellfish, grilled meats, pasta and local olive oil. Kali and Kukljica have the best concentration of restaurants.

• Konoba Udica, Ulica II 87, Kukljica, ☏ +385 98 919 7269. Popular seafood konoba on the Kukljica marina, known for tuna steak, fish baked under a peka, and a strong Croatian wine list. Pleasant terrace overlooking the harbour. 
• Konoba Stari Mlin, Ulica II 99, Kukljica, ☏ +385 23 373 304. Family-run seafood and Mediterranean tavern on the Kukljica seafront, running since 1989; fresh fish, octopus salad and black risotto. 
• Konoba Ugljan, Put Tabele 2, Ugljan, ☏ +385 99 4288 888. Homely konoba with generous portions of fresh fish and meat, house wine and some vegetarian options. 
• Konoba Roko, Preko. Waterfront tavern and pizzeria in Preko with views toward the islet of Ošljak; seafood and pizza. 
• Pizzeria Mareta, Ugljan village. Casual pizza spot in the village of Ugljan. 
• Beach Bites, Put uvale Suha 1, Ugljan, ☏ +385 98 176 8155. Beach restaurant in Suha bay on the quieter southwest side of the island, run by Camping Ugljan Resort, with a view of the nearby islands. Pizza, burgers, fried calamari, salads, drinks and cocktails; cards accepted. 

Seasonal cafés, gelaterias and beach bars operate in Preko, Kukljica and along the waterfronts in summer. Try local wines and rakija. The beach bar at Camping Ugljan (see Sleep) is open to non-guests and has a good sea view.

Accommodation is mostly private apartments, rooms and small guesthouses rather than large hotels, concentrated in Preko, Kukljica, Kali and Lukoran. There is also a campsite and a hotel in Kali. Book well ahead for July and August.

• Camping Ugljan Resort, Put uvale Suha 1, 23275 Ugljan (On the quieter southwestern side of the island, about 2 km from the village of Ugljan), ☏ +385 23 240 950, booking@camping-ugljan.com. A modern 4-star eco camping resort set in a secluded, forested bay directly on the sea, surrounded by olive and pine trees. Offers grassy pitches of various sizes and mobile homes (studio to three-bedroom), a heated outdoor pool, a beach bar-restaurant, and a mini-market with fresh bread daily. Rents bikes, e-bikes, SUPs and boats, and arranges excursions to the Kornati islands and mainland parks. Dog-friendly, with its own dog beach and guest vegetable garden. Typically open April–October. 
• Private apartments and rooms. The most common option island-wide, especially in Preko, Kukljica, Kali and Lukoran. Book through the usual booking platforms or local agencies. 

Mobile coverage is good across the island, and most accommodation offers Wi-Fi.

Ugljan is very safe. The usual coastal precautions apply: wear water shoes on rocky and pebble beaches, take care with sun exposure in summer, and carry water on longer hikes, as trails can be exposed and shadeless. The nearest hospital is in Zadar.

• Zadar — the historic mainland city just across the channel, with the Sea Organ, Roman forum and old town.
• Pašman — the neighbouring island, connected by bridge to the south.
• Dugi Otok — a larger, more rugged island further out, home to Telašćica Nature Park.
• Kornati — the famous archipelago and national park, reachable on day trips.