Yellowstone Country

Yellowstone Country, or south central Montana, is a place of rugged beauty, with its roaring rivers and snow capped peaks, and is considered by many to be one of the most naturally beautiful places on Earth. It also encompasses cultured cities and historic towns. It is partly in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, which is one of the last remaining large, nearly intact ecosystems in the northern temperate zone of the Earth. It serves as a gateway for visitors to Yellowstone National Park and as a major migration route for animals coming in and out of the higher areas of the park. Much of the area appears the same as it did when Lewis and Clark explored the area.

Cities

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Map
Map of Yellowstone Country
  • 45.679-111.0461 Bozeman – the largest city in the area, offering the widest variety of museums, restaurants and shopping.
  • 45.775-111.1752 Belgrade – near Bozeman Airport.
  • 45.836-109.9513 Big Timber – magnificent scenery and western culture.
  • 45.67-109.394 Stillwater County – rural county with great hiking and fishing; Columbus is the largest town.
  • 45.019-109.9345 Cooke City – on the Beartooth Highway at the northeast entrance of Yellowstone National Park. A convenient place to dine, refuel and perhaps spend the night while exploring the park.
  • 45.033-110.7086 Gardiner – at the north entrance to Yellowstone National Park.
  • 45.659-110.5647 Livingston – its historic downtown is a favorite stopping point for visitors.
  • 45.186-109.2478 Red Lodge – charming town in the foothills of the Beartooth Mountains and surrounded by Custer National Forest.
  • 45.893-111.5519 Three Forks – at the turn-off between Yellowstone and Glacier National Parks, known for its annual rodeo.
  • 44.663-111.10610 West Yellowstone – a popular entrance with a small airport on the west side of the park.

Other destinations

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The Roosevelt Arch in Gardiner. The top of the arch is inscribed with a quote from the Organic Act of 1872, the legislation which created Yellowstone, which reads "For the Benefit and Enjoyment of the People."
  • 44.6-110.51 Yellowstone National Park – the world's first national park, set aside in 1872 to preserve the vast number of geysers, hot springs, and other thermal areas, as well as to protect the incredible wildlife and rugged beauty of the area. While most of the park is in Wyoming, three of the main entrances to the park are in Montana (Cooke City, Gardiner and West Yellowstone). This 3,472 sq mi (8,990 km2) park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
  • 45.26-111.312 Big Sky – a large ski resort south of Bozeman, at the headwaters of the Gallatin River.

Understand

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Fly fishing the Yellowstone River with Electric Peak in the background

Tourist information

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  • Visit Yellowstone Country website
  • Yellowstone Forever (formerly The Yellowstone Association), a non-profit organization that educates Yellowstone National Park visitors by offering trip planners, books, videos, and guided classes through the park by their field institute. They run numerous Park Stores throughout the park, as well as the Gardiner and West Yellowstone entrances.

Get in

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By plane

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Don't expect a dazzling array of services available from larger airports, just the basics means short waits and not much else.

Several smaller landing strips dotting the area provide space for small private planes and a few may offer private tours. In a few areas, such as Chico Hot Springs, the road seconds as a runway so be prepared to pull over as planes obviously have the right of way.

By car

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There was a short time when Montana experimented with eliminating its speed limits to help cope with the long distances between towns. This proved to be too risky as drivers that were unfamiliar with the area were taking unnecessary risks. The good news is that it's almost impossible to find an area that does not provide breath taking views of staggering natural beauty.

  • Interstate 90 (I-90) connects Billings with Bozeman, Livingston, Butte, Missoula and Idaho.
  • U.S. Route 89 (US-89) runs north south through Livingston to Yellowstone National Park.
  • US-212 leads from Cooke City and Yellowstone National Park and connects to I-90 and Billings via 310 at Laurel. The section between Red Lodge and Cooke City is known as the Beartooth Highway. An official National Scenic Byways All-American Road, it traces a series of steep zigzags and switchbacks, along the Montana-Wyoming border to the 10,947 ft (3,337 m) high Beartooth Pass that has been called "the most beautiful drive in America," by late CBS correspondent Charles Kuralt.
  • US-191 runs from West Yellowstone through Big Sky and eventually to Bozeman.

By foot

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The Continental Divide Trail is a National Scenic Trail running 3,100 miles between Mexico and Canada. It follows the Continental Divide of the Americas along the Rocky Mountains and traverses five U.S. states; Montana, Idaho, Wyoming, Colorado, and New Mexico.

Get around

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Classic tour buses are available to tour Yellowstone National Park

By car

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Car rentals are available near major airports for those not driving into the area.

It can be a long way between towns in the area so make sure you are aware of your fuel level and weather conditions before heading on the road. Even major roadways can be treacherous due to animals on the roadway so use extreme caution at night.

The road between Gardiner and Cooke City is the only road through the park open to cars during the winter.

By bicycle

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Cycling in area can be a very rewarding experience, but due to the great distances between towns and extensive mountain terrain some additional planning is necessary to ensure that lodging is available each night.

Yellowstone National Park reserves a number of campsites for cyclists, but during the busy summer season it is best to reserve sites in advance wherever possible.

Black Bear are a common sight in the Greater Yellowstone ecosystem.

Wildlife viewing

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The greater Yellowstone ecosystem is home to the largest concentration of mammals in the contiguous 48 states. 67 different mammals live here, including grizzly bears and black bears. Gray wolves were restored in 1995. Wolverine and lynx, which require large expanses of undisturbed habitat, are also found in the Yellowstone ecosystem. Seven native ungulate species live here - elk, mule deer, bison, moose, bighorn sheep, pronghorn, and white-tailed deer. Non-native mountain goats have colonized some areas and numerous small mammals are found throughout the area.

Paradise Valley is carved by the Yellowstone River, extending from Yellowstone National Park and broadening out between Yankee Jim Canyon and Livingston. It is populated with small farms and ranches and serves as a major migration route for animals coming and going seasonally to the higher elevations in Yellowstone National Park.

Museums and cultural centers

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A display at the Museum of the Rockies.

Bozeman has a range of museums that are worth exploring. The American Computer & Robotics Museum is a must-see for anyone with an interest in computers or computing. The Emerson Center for Arts and Culture puts on art exhibits, classes, and concerts in a historic (1918) school building. The Museum of the Rockies documents the changes that the Rockies have undergone.

The Depot Center in Livingston provides historic exhibits and cultural programs on railroad history. There are also local history museums in Big Timber, Bozeman, Livingston and Red Lodge.

Rodeos

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Yellowstone Country is cowboy country and rodeos are a natural extension of local pride. Although contemporary cowboys are more likely to drive a four wheel drive ATV than a horse these days, rodeos are a great time to get together and show off their skills and compete with other riders. Check out the annual rodeos in Bozeman, Livingston and Three Forks.

Dude ranches

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The whole concept of guest ranches, ranches that welcome tourists seeking a quintessential Western experience, was developed in Yellowstone Country. The OTO Guest Ranch near Gardiner, now long closed, claimed to being the first "Dude Ranch" anywhere. Today, there are some working ranches where guests participate in cattle drives and perform daily chores. Others provide experiences with less labor and more glam camping. They offer a range of activities, including horseback riding for people of all abilities, fishing trips, archery, cookouts, swimming, hiking and square dancing.

On the river

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Barack Obama fly fishing the Gallatin River

The area's rivers are famous worldwide for their blue-ribbon trout fishing and water sports.

  • Boulder River begins in the Absaroka-Beartooth Mountains, and flows due north towards its confluence with the Yellowstone River in the town of Big Timber.
  • Gallatin River offers a tremendous amount of water sport opportunities, including rafting at varying skill levels. The river is also known for its scenic beauty and serenity.
  • Madison River begins in Yellowstone National Park at the confluence of the Firehole River and Gibbon River. From its origin, it flows for more than 140 miles through mountainous scenery before it reaches the Missouri River near Three Forks.
  • Stillwater River begins in the mountains of the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness before leaving the mountains and flowing out into the prairies and canyons that lie alongside the wilderness. It continues for another 45 miles through a mix of canyons, prairie and forest until meeting up with the Yellowstone River near the town of Columbus.
  • Yellowstone River is the largest river originating in Yellowstone National Park and is in fact the longest undammed river in North America. Breathtaking wild beauty and a plethora of fishing and white water activities for all skill levels. Perhaps the most famous river in the area, most people assume that it was named after the park but in fact the opposite is true.
Driftboat fly fishing on the Yellowstone River

This is a world-famous area for fly fishing. Outfitters can be found in most cities and many towns and rural areas. Ask at local fly shops and check river conditions online. June is high water month due to snow melting at higher elevations so can make rivers treacherous and water muddy and difficult to fish. There are fishing shops in Gardiner and Livingston.

Most towns along major rivers will have a variety of whitewater rafting outfitters that can provide a safe trip down river. Gardiner and West Yellowstone have a broad range of services for the Yellowstone River's Class III rapids.

Hiking

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Trout Lake in the Gallatin National Forest

Yellowstone Country offers some of the best hiking and wilderness backpacking in the United States.

The Custer-Gallatin National Forest spans across southeastern Montana northeast of Yellowstone National Park, encompassing over 3.4 million acres. It is one of the most ecologically diverse forests in the northern U.S., and offers hiking and backpacking experiences similar to the national park but without all of the crowds. Contained within are two Wilderness Areas, the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness between Cooke City and Red Lodge named for jagged peaks resembling bears teeth and for Native Americans that lived in the area, and the Lee Metcalf Wilderness surrounding Big Sky.

Check with local forest service offices for details and trail conditions before heading out. There are regional forest service offices in Bozeman, West Yellowstone, Big Timber, and South Livingston. Topo maps are also available in local camping and fishing stores.

Its difficult to imagine a more appropriate place than Yellowstone Country to go horseback riding. If only for an afternoon of riding around a high mountain prairie or a weeks long camping adventure deep in the Montana wilderness Yellowstone Country offers plenty of opportunities to ride a horse. Various National Forest trails are designated for horseback and outfitters and ranches that cater to tourists can be found across the region.

Winter sports

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Skiing at Red Lodge

There are four different public ski resorts in the area, each with their own unique terrain and character. The mountains usually open around mid-late December and remain open into April, sometimes May. There are also options for backcountry and heli-skiing.

Big Sky (combined with Moonlight Basin) is Montana's largest ski resort, with a low cost shuttle from Bozeman twice a day in winter. Bozeman has its locally owned and adored Bridger Bowl, operated as a nonprofit community ski area since 1955. Red Lodge Mountain also has basic all-around skiing.

Hot springs

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Boiling River in Yellowstone

Want to jump in one of Yellowstone's geothermal pools? Just inside of Yellowstone National Park south of Gardiner is the Boiling River, one of a very few spots in the park where visitors can soak in naturally-heated water.

The underground heat source extends far beyond the park boundaries. Bozeman Hot Springs provides an alternative to heated swimming pools, with a mild pool and a hotter pool with temperatures rising to almost 100 °F (38 °C). Chico Hot Springs near Livingston is an excellent stopping point on the way to Yellowstone.

Yellowstone Country is cattle country and meat is on the menu. Beef and bison are commonly raised in the area, and you can seek out restaurants that offer wild game such as elk and trout. It's not the easiest part of the country to find vegetarian options, but they do exist, especially in larger cities and tourist areas.

Look for these locally made foods:

  • Wheat Montana Farms and Bakery - locally made breads from locally grown wheat.
  • Wilcoxson's Ice Cream - Made in Montana since 1912. Available at many local restaurants and utilizes several local flavors.

Drink

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Although Montana is not known for sophisticated drinks, bars are an important part of local culture. Even small towns have several bars available and they often serve as a community hub for the latest news and fishing reports.

There are a few great regional microbreweries. Keep an eye out for local beers from Neptune's Brewery in Livingston and Bozeman Brewing Company.

Sleep

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The campgrounds within Yellowstone National Park are wonderful but often crowded and overbooked during peak season. A nice alternative is one of the many state campgrounds near Cooke City, Gardiner and West Yellowstone.

Stay safe

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Bison on the road in Yellowstone Park

Winter driving: During the winter, smaller secondary roads are often closed entirely, and even the Interstate can shut down rapidly when the weather turns poor. Verify weather conditions and road status with the Montana Department of Transportation before setting out, and travel with emergency supplies. Unpaved roads are typically impassable for over half the year.

Do not feed wildlife. Though many of the animals in the area are used to seeing humans, the wildlife is nonetheless wild. Stay at least 100 m away from bears and 25 m from all other potentially aggressive animals! No matter how docile they may look, bison, elk, moose, bears, and nearly all large animals can attack, and every year dozens of visitors are injured because they didn't keep a proper distance. These animals are large, wild, and potentially dangerous, so give them their space. Be especially cautious while traveling at night as animals (especially deer) are known to wander onto roadways.

Weather can change rapidly and with little warning. A sunny, warm summer day can quickly become a cold, rainy or even snowy experience. Hypothermia can be a concern. Be prepared for a variety of weather conditions by bringing along appropriate clothing. Lightning can and does injure and kill people in the area, so watch the sky and take shelter in a building if you hear thunder.

Lock your car and exercise sensible precautions with valuables, especially when leaving your vehicle at trailheads or anywhere you might be away from your vehicle for any length of time.

Hiking and camping

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Beartooth Mountains

There's no reason to fear the mountains, as long as you approach them with proper respect and preparation. As with anywhere else, recklessness and a lack of forethought can get you into trouble, especially in Montana's vast backcountry.

  • Altitude sickness - Can lead to dizziness, headaches, nausea, even blackouts and pulmonary edema. Give your body a few days to adjust to the high altitudes before going full throttle with your hiking or skiing.
  • Dehydration - When you engage in strenuous outdoor activities, be sure to replenish your fluids as you go. You may be losing moisture through your mouth and nose and through sweating, but be completely unaware due to the arid mountain air. May result in dizziness, intense thirst and elevated heart and breath rates.
  • Giardia - Drinking untreated water from regional streams is not a good idea owing to Giardia parasites, but tap water is not a problem.
  • Hypothermia - Prolonged exposure to the cold can result in confusion, a slowed heart rate, lethargy, even death. Dress warmly in non cotton clothing to allow any sweat to wick away from your body and evaporate. Otherwise, it may thoroughly chill you later in the day when temperatures drop.
  • Frostbite - During periods of severe cold, your circulatory system pulls all your warming blood into the core of your body to protect your vital organs. This makes your extremities such as your ears, fingers and nose especially vulnerable. Wear a face mask, insulated gloves and other heavy gear on the worst winter days. It gets cold sitting still on those ski lifts!
  • Sunburn - Lather up with sunscreen, even if there's cloud cover. Montana's high elevation means you have less protection to the sun's powerful ultra violet rays. This can be compounded while skiing or snowboarding, when the rays are reflected off the snow and hits the underside of your jaw. Don't forget to wear UV-rated goggles or sunglasses, as well.
  • Know your 10 essentials, because cell phones won't always work in many rural areas, and may not be depended on in an emergency situation.

Go next

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This region travel guide to Yellowstone Country is a usable article. It gives a good overview of the region, its sights, and how to get in, as well as links to the main destinations, whose articles are similarly well developed. An adventurous person could use this article, but please feel free to improve it by editing the page.