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Central Delhi (मध्य दिल्ली Madhya Dillī) comprises the backpacker areas of Paharganj and Karol Bagh, as well as the medieval city of Ferozabad and the early British-era Civil Lines.
Understand
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Orientation
[edit | edit source]The Wikivoyage district of Central Delhi contains an interesting mix of architecture from Sultanate and colonial periods. Other than the backpacker areas of Paharganj and Karol Bagh, it comprises the medieval city of Ferozabad and the early British-era Civil Lines. The Mughal-era walled city of Old Delhi is covered separately.
- Paharganj (पहाड़गंज Pahāṛgañj) — A neighbourhood directly west of New Delhi station, bordered by Panchkuan Road in the south, Idgah Road in the north, and Deshraj Bhatia Marg/Chitragupta Road in the west. It is noisy, filthy, and full of touts, but it's also centrally located and has many cheap hotels and thus very popular with budget travellers. Paharganj is considered a safe area.
- Karol Bagh (क़रोल बाग़ Qarol Bāġ) — West of Paharganj, this neighbourhood is quieter, but not as centrally located.
- Ferozabad (फ़िरोज़ाबाद Firozābād) — A medieval city constructed in 1354 by Feroz Shah Tughlaq. The area contains several gateways, hunting lodges and step-wells of the Sultanate period. There are also two Ashokan Pillars which were brought to Delhi by Feroz Shah Tughlaq. A significant amount of colonial architecture is present in the area and includes war memorials, churches and a couple of Christian Cemeteries.
- Civil Lines
Get in
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Map of Central Delhi
See
[edit | edit source]- 1 Nicholson Cemetery. Located near the Kashmiri Gate the Nicholson Cemetery is an active cemetery and the final resting place of hundred of Christians (both British and Indian). The cemetery in named after Brigadier General John Nicholson, who is often considered by the British as the hero of the Revolt of 1857. During the reclaiming of Delhi in 1857 Nicholson was shot near the Lahore Gate and was carried back to the camp. He died a slow and painful death. Nicholson Cemetery is approached through a beautiful cottage styled arched gateway, which doubles up as the living quarters of the cemetery’s caretaker and his family. The grave of John Nicholson lies just right of the entrance and is fenced by an iron railing. The epitaph reads: "The grave of Brigadier General John Nicholson who led the assault of Delhi but fell in the hour of victory mortally wounded and died 23rd September 1857 aged 35." Another important person to be buried in the Nicholson Cemetery is Yesudas Ramachandra, professor of Mathematics at Delhi Government College.
- 2 Qudsia Bagh. Qudsia Bagh was constructed by Qudsia Begum. wife of Mughal emperor Muhammad Shah and mother of Mughal emperor Ahmad Shah Bahadur. She was born as a Hindu and her initial name was Udham Bai. She was a dancing girl in the court of Muhammad Shah, who later married her as his third wife. After Muhammad Shah's death in 1748, her son Ahmad Shah Bahadur (1725–1775) became emperor. As a widow, she took the title Qudsia Begum. She constructed the Qudsia Bagh in 1748. Formerly a splendid palace, has now much dilapidated and neglected.Large part of it was destroyed during the Revolt of 1857. Today the entrance gate, the Sahi (Royal) Mosque and remains of the stables are all that is left of the spectacular Mughal gardens.
Civil Lines
[edit | edit source]- 3 Dr. Ambedkar National Memorial (Mahaparinirvan Bhoomi). A memorial dedicated to anti-caste activist, political leader and neo-Buddhist Dr. Bhimrao Ramji Ambedkar. The memorial building is in the shape of an open book which signifies the Constitution of India. The site incorporates several Buddhist elements, including a bronze Ashoka pillar at the entrance, a Bodhi tree surrounded by fountains with that move to Buddhist chants in a sound and light show, and two Sanchi-style toranas (gateways).
- 4 Lok Niwas (लोक निवास Lok Nivās), Raj Niwas Marg. The official residence of the Lieutenant Governor of Delhi appointed by the President of India, formerly the Raj Niwas (राज निवास Rāj Nivās). It was originally the residence of the Chief Commissioner of Delhi appointed by the Viceroy of India.
- 5 Majnu ka Tilla, Outer Ring Rd (Bus 53, 169, metro: Vidhan Sabha 2 ). One of the more accessible Tibetan resettlement areas in India, and the place of departure and arrival for buses to/from Dharamsala, the home of the Tbetan Government in Exile and the Dalai Lama. A nice piece of variety for Delhi, and a popular backpacker hangout, with Tibetan culture, politics and religion. An auto-rickshaw from New Delhi station should cost around ₹50 (use the prepaid stand). Cycle-rickshaws from Vidhan Sabha metro station charge ₹15 and take about five minutes.
- 6 Old Secretariat (पुराना सचिवालय Purānā Sacivālay) (metro: Vidhan Sabha 2 ). The seat of the Delhi Legislative Assembly (Vidhan Sabha), as well as the executive branch of the Government of Delhi. Built in 1912, the building was originally designed by E. Montague Thomas to hold the Imperial Legislative Council as the British moved the capital of India from Calcutta (present-day Kolkata). The Old Secretariat was vacated when the new Council House (present-day Samvidhan Sadan) in New Delhi was inaugurated in 1927.
Ferozabad
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Ferozabad is a medieval citadel constructed in 1354 by Feroz Shah Tughlaq. The area contains several gateways, hunting lodges and step-wells of the Sultanate period. There are also two Ashokan Pillars which were brought to Delhi by Feroz Shah Tughlaq. A significant amount of colonial architecture is present in the area and includes war memorials, churches and a couple of cemeteries.
- 7 Feroz Shah Kotla. Feroz Shah Kotla is the fifth citadel of Delhi and was built by Feroz Shah Tughlaq in 1354. The previous citadels of Delhi were abandoned due to lack of water, so Feroz Shah Kotla was built right next to the Yamuna River. Today the ruins of Feroz Shah Kotla lie nestled between the cricket stadium, of the same name, and the Ring Road. The ruins of the Feroze Shah Kotla are said to be the abode of friendly djinns (spirit) and every Thursday hordes of devotees, irrespective of religion, visit the ruins of Feroz Shah Kotla with photocopies of letters, citing their problems. They stick the letters on different strategic spots of the citadel and offer prayers to the Djinns. Feroz Shah Kotla still houses several interesting ruins. Although minimalist in nature, they still reveal the former glory and splendor of the ancient citadel. The ruins of the citadel are scattered over a large area and consist of a handful of prominent structures like the Hawa Mahal, Jami Masjid and Circular Stepwell.
- Hawa Mahal (A three stage steeped pyramid with the Ashokan Pillar at the top). Hawa Mahal or Kushk-i-Shikar lies on the northern end of the citadel and is crowned with the Ashokan Pillar (Minar-e-Zarreen). It is built with a central solid core and vaulted cells around it. Stairs at the corners lead to the uppermost terrace where the Ashokan pillar is planted. The pillar was originally from Topar in Ambala. It was shifted to the present location by Feroz Shah Tughlaq. The pillar has inscription in the Prakrit language. Stairs lead to the very top of the stepped pyramid providing close views of the inscription of the pillar along with a bird's eye view of the entire complex and beyond.
- Jami Masjid (Main Mosque of the citadel). The Jami Masjid, or the Main Mosque, lies just south of the Hawa Mahal. It is a gigantic mosque and approached by a long flight of stairs. During the time of construction it was the largest mosque of Delhi and was an inspiration for the Jama Masjid, the present largest Mosque in Delhi. The mosque is built of quartzite stone. It rests on a series of cells on the ground floor. Entrance is through a domed pavilion on the north, the pavilion in turn is approached by a long flight of steps. The roof of the mosque has long collapsed; apart from the side wall, a few pillars are all that is left of the grand prayer hall. Strangely the Jami Masjid is still an active mosque and attracts thousand of devotees during the time of Eid. Even on normal days large groups of local Muslims along with Muslim office staff from nearby offices drop in for there daily namaz.
- Circular Baoli (A circular stepwell). Just in front of the step pyramid of Hawa Mahal lies the circular stepwell. Delhi has a number of stepwell but the one at Feroz Shah Kotla is unique as it is the only circular stepwell in Delhi. Sadly the stepwell is kept under lock and key and interiors are not accessible.
- 8 Khooni Darwaza (Bloody Gate), Bahadur Shah Zafar Road (opposite Feroz Shah Kotla; metro: Delhi Gate 6 ). It is here in this gate that Major William Hodson shot dead the last Mughal ruler Bahadur Shah Zafar's sons Mirza Mughal and Mirza Khizr Sultan as well as grandson Mirza Abu Bakr after the defeat in Revolt of 1857. The gate served as an execution chamber under Sher Shah. The severed heads of those executed were put on display in this gate. Here Jahangir ordered the killing of two sons of Rahim Khan-I-Khana who was a Navaratna in Akbar's court. The gate was part of a defensive mechanism set up by Sher Shah and was known as Kabuli Gate, as it faced the city of Kabul now in Afghanistan. But because of its bloody incidence it came to be known as the Khooni Darwaza. The 15.5 meter double storied structure is made of Delhi quartzite stone and is topped with battlements. The windows and the archways have red sandstone ornamentation. There are three different sets of stairways leading to different levels of the gateway, but these are kept under lock & key.
- 9 Shaheedi Park (शहीदी पार्क Śahīdī Pārk). An open-air museum with a vast collection of sculptures of famous personalities in Indian history, including freedom fighters, soldiers, thinkers, monarchs, and even rishis (Hindu sages) and deities. The sculptures range from bas-reliefs and busts to full statues.
Kamala Nehru Ridge
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Kamala Nehru Ridge or Delhi North Ridge is an extension of the ancient Aravalli Range, near the Delhi University Campus. It was declared a Reserve Forest in 1915. It initially covered an area of 170 hectares but has now shrunk to 87 hectares. The ridge houses several monuments and structures from the Sultanate period right up to the colonial period.
- 10 Mutiny Memorial (Ajitgarh). After the Mutiny of 1857 several memorials were erected all over the subcontinent in memory of the Britishers and Indian soldiers who fought for the British. The Mutiny Memorial at North Ridge (Kamala Nehru Ridge) Delhi was the most prominent of the mutiny memorials of the sub continent. The 1863 built Mutiny memorial is an octagonal tapering red sandstone tower built in Gothic style. It has a richly ornamented faced and is crowned with a marble crucifix. The four tiered tower rests on a two tiered platform. The total height of the tower in 33 meters. Flights of stairs from four side of the platform leads to the base of the tower. The entry of the tower is through a gate on the western side and a flight of spiral stairs leads to the balconies of the four tiers. Sadly entry inside the tower is restricted for tourist. Apart from the gate the remaining seven sides contains marble plaques embedded inside decorated sandstone archways. Each side has a total of three plaque one large and two smaller ones at the bottom. Three of the bigger plaque narrates the incident in English, Hindi and Urdu. Among the remaining four plaques one lists the regiments present during the siege of Delhi while the second one lists actions fought at or near Delhi. The remaining two plaques list the KILLED, WOUNDED and MISSING soldiers of the mutiny, which is again sub divide into sub categories like Europeans & Natives and Officers & Non Commissioned Officers. On 15 August 1972 the Delhi’s Mutiny Memorial was renamed Ajitgarh (Place of the Unvanquished) and a plaque was put at its pedestal. Written in four languages Hindi, Urdu, English and Punjabi. It says that the “enemies” mentioned in the inscription were actually the freedom fighters and martyrs of India, who fought bravely against the repressive colonial rule in the First War of Indian Independence.
- 11 Ashokan Pillar. The Ashokan Pillar lies 200 meters north of the Mutiny Memorial and on the same side of the road. It is located opposite the Hindu Rao Hospital. The entire ridge area was one a favourite hunting location of Feroz Shah Tughlaq. This pillar was shifted from Meerut by Feroz Shah Tughlaq (reign 1351 – 1388) and was placed at the emperors favourite hunting location. Incidental this region of Delhi contains another Ashokan Pillar shifted by Feroz Shah Tughlaq from Topra and set up in Firoz Shah Kotla. The pillar contains the Ashokan Edicts, I – V, partly or almost fully. During the reign of Farrukhsiyar (1713 – 19) the pillar was severely damaged and broken into five pieces. The pieces were shifted to Asiatic Society of Bengal in Kolkata. In 1866 they were received back and were erected together in 1867.
- 12 Pir Ghaib. Delhi has countless monuments and they are located in the most unusual places. The Hindu Rao Hospital houses a couple of ruined buildings dating back to the Delhi Sultanate. The ridge was once a favourite hunting ground for Feroz Shah Tughlaq (reign 1351 – 1388). Pir Ghaib, located inside the Hindu Rao Hospital complex is a remains of one of hunting lodges of Feroz Shah Tughlaq. Later on it was abandoned and probably served as a mosque and even as an astronomical observatory. It also probably served as a residence of a Muslim saint, who disappeared mysteriously. No wonder Pir Ghaib literally translates into the "vanished saint"! Today the gate of the Hindu Rao Hospital is located just opposite the Ashokan Pillar, a winding road through the hospital complex leads to the Phir Ghaib. The structure has remained intact and a stairs leads to the terrace of the two storied structure. The terrace houses a cylindrical structure. which was probably a part of the observatory. ery next to the Pir Ghaib is a step well called Hindu Rao Hospital Baoli, dating back to the same period. It is a large well with a flight of steps leading to the water. A simple structure with almost no ornamentation.
- 13 Chauburja Mosque. From the Hindu Rao Hospital gate a long walk northwards along the North Ridge leads to the park maintained by Delhi Development Authority (DDA). Next to the entrance of the park is the Chauburja Mosque. This was also constructed by Feroz Shah Tughlaq and along with Pir Ghaib and the baoli was part and parcel of the hunting expeditions. Literally meaning the Mosque with four towers (or probably domes), sadly only the dome of the south – east corner survives to this day. The eastern side has three arched entrances and four bastions.
- 14 Southern Gurad House. A walk along the wanding roadways of the Delhi Development Authority (DDA) park leads to the Southern Guard House and then to the Flagstaff Tower. A couple of yards to the left of the main walkway is the Southern Guard House. A small rectangular structure with a pedimented roof. Built in the first part of the nineteenth century the Southern Guard House along with the nearby Flagstaff Tower, was part of the cantonment area of the armed forces of the British East India Company.
- 15 Flagstaff Tower. Just north of the Southern Guard House and the highest point of the North Ridge (Kamala Nehru Ridge) is the Flagstaff Tower. The stout, circular, one room castellated tower was built around 1828 as a signal tower. The Flagstaff Tower played an important role during the Sepoy Mutiny (Indian Rebellion of 1857).
- 16 Roshanara Garden, Dronacharya Guru Hanuman Marg. Begum Roshanara was Aurangzeb's sister. She was the second daughter of Shah Jahan and Mumtaj Mahal. She was a supporter of her younger brother Aurangzeb and played an active role during the war of succession which took place after Shah Jahan's illness in 1657. She was a talented poet and a powerful lady in Mughal politics.However she is best remembered for Raoshanara Bagh, a pleasure garden laid out by her in 1650. She was discretely poisoned by her brother Aurangzeb. She died in great pain in 1671. She was laid to rest in a tomb inside her favourite garden. The tomb is popularly known as baradari (literally meaning 12 doors). The brick built structure houses four domed chatirs in the corners. The garden is centred round a lake, which attracts migratory birds during winter. The garden is laid out in Japanese style.
Raj Ghat complex
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The memorial complex consists of the Raj Ghat, a memorial dedicated to Mahatma Gandhi, as well as a memorial of prime ministers, presidents and other national leaders. These sites are in close proximity, 5 minutes walk east of Delhi Gate 6 .
- 17 Raj Ghat (Royal Platform). 9:30AM-5:30PM. The memorial to Mahatma Gandhi at the site of his cremation. Check for closure dates/security checks around national holidays/Gandhi's death anniversary.
- 18 Shantivan (Peace Garden). The memorial to Jawaharlal Nehru, the first Prime Minister of India.
- 19 Vijay Ghat (Victory Platform). The memorial to Lal Bahadur Shastri, the second Prime Minister of India.
- Shakti Sthal (Place of Strength) commemorates Indira Gandhi, the third Prime Minister of India.
- Samta Sthal (Place of Equality) commemorates Jagjivan Ram, the fourth Deputy Prime Minister of India.
- Kisan Ghat (Farmer's Platform) commemorates Charan Singh, the fifth Prime Minister of India.
- Veer Bhumi (Brave Land) commemorates Rajiv Gandhi, the sixth Prime Minister of India.
- Ekta Sthal (Place of Unity) commemorates Zail Singh, the seventh President of India.
- Karma Bhumi (Place of Duty) commemorates Shankar Dayal Sharma, the ninth President of India.
- Sangharsh Sthal (Place of Struggle) commemorates Devi Lal, the sixth Deputy Prime Minister of India.
- Uday Bhumi commemorates K. R. Narayanan, the tenth President of India.
- Jannayak Sthal (Place of People's Leader) commemorates Chandra Shekhar, the eighth Prime Minister of India.
- Smriti Sthal (Place of Remembrance) commemorates Inder Kumar Gujral, the twelfth Prime Minister of India.
- Sadaiv Atal (Firm Forever) commemorates Atal Bihari Vajpayee, the tenth Prime Minister of India.
Museums
[edit | edit source]- National Children's Museum.
- 20 National Gandhi Museum (Gandhi Memorial Museum), Vikram Nagar. The museum was first opened in Mumbai, shortly after Gandhi was assassinated in 1948. It was later moved to Raj Ghat in 1961. The library at the Gandhi Museum not only showcases Gandhi's work to the public but also serves as a place for general study. The books are divided into two sections, those written by or about Gandhi and books on other subject matters. The gallery has a large number of paintings and personal items of Gandhi. The most notable items in the collection are a Satyagraha woodcut, one of Gandhi's walking sticks, the shawl and dhoti worn by Gandhi when he was assassinated and one of the bullets that were used to kill Gandhi and his urn.
- 21 Shankar's International Doll's Museum, 4, Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg, Nehru House (metro: ITO 6 ), ☏ +91 11 2331 6970. Tu-Sa 10AM-6PM. A museum of dolls from all over the country. You get to see the costumes and art from all over India, as well as some nice crafts. ₹10.
Places of worship
[edit | edit source]- 22 Gurdwara Mata Sundri, Mata Sundri road (Behind JP Nayak Hospital; metro: Barakhambha Road 3/4 , 15 min walk), ☏ +91 11 2323 4448. The gurudwara is a tribute to Mata Sundri, the wife of the 10th Sikh guru, Guru Gobind Singh (1666–1708). The Guru was a warrior, poet and philosopher. The Gurdwara is built in brick and lime mortar. On the farther end of the hall is a marble-paved gallery. The carved wood beam of the gallery bears an inscription in Gurmukhi script in bold letters. There is a marble slab in the center which is surrounded by the inscribed sacred emblem of the Sikhs. It has a standard square-domed sanctum, arched copings and a traditional styled entrance.
- 23 Jhandewalan Mandir, Jhandewalan Devi Mandir Marg, Block E, Jhandewalan Extension, Jhandewala (M from Karol Bagh Terminal 500m NE). One of the most popular temples of goddess Durga.
Do
[edit | edit source]Parks
[edit | edit source]- 1 Deen Dayal Upadhyay Park (DDU Park).
Sports
[edit | edit source]- 2 Ambedkar Stadium (metro: Delhi Gate 6 ). Watch football at Ambedkar Stadium.
- 3 Arun Jaitley Cricket Stadium (metro: Delhi Gate 6 ). Watch cricket at Arun Jaitley Cricket Stadium. Watch India play in One day or T20 international in the crowded stadium with a capacity of 41,820. Five day test cricket is another option with lesser crowd. Also watch the local club Delhi Capitals (formerly Delhi Daredevils) play the Indian Premier League (IPL).
- 4 Indira Gandhi Arena (Indira Gandhi Indoor Stadium). The largest indoor sports arena in India and among the largest in Asia. It is regularly used by tennis club Indian Aces and DSA Senior Division Futsal League.
Buy
[edit | edit source]Bazaars
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- 1 Kamla Nagar, Kamla Nagar, Shakti Nagar (next to Delhi University's North campus; Bus 19A, 62, 92, 100A, 102, 106, 114, 115, 116, 125, 127, 128, 131, 133, 136 to stop 'Kamla Nagar'; near Pulbangash Metro Station). Popular with college students and known for its spicy street food.
- 2 Karol Bagh (West Delhi Market, Gaffar Market, Sabka Bazaar), Saraswati Marg, Beadonpura (Bus 39, 39A, 71, 82N, 89, 166, 181, 212, 214A, 218, 309, 350, 351, 352,450 to 'D B Gupta Market'). known for traditional Indian Wear, sarees and shawls. Huge area and big brand showrooms. - Reputed to be the largest shopping area in Asia with 20,000 shops and traders. There are many tailors experienced in western styles (suits etc.). Also a growing number of hotels .
- 3 Paharganj, Arya Nagar (opposite New Delhi Suburban ; bus: 12N, 19, 19A, 39, 39A, 82N, 166, 181, 214A, 309, 351, 753, 838, 853AC, 857 to stop 'Paharganj'). Oriented toward backpackers, this strip of shops sells items such as Indian perfumes, shawls, tablas, rugs, jewellery, etc.
- 4 Cycle Market, Block E 4, Jhandewalan Extension, Jhandewalan (M 'Jhandewalan' Blue 0.5 km S). Deals not just in bicycles, but in cameras as well.
Handicrafts
[edit | edit source]- 5 R. Expo House, Paharganj (near the New Delhi Railway Station).
- 6 S. K. Expo, Paharganj (near the New Delhi Railway Station), ☏ +91 11 2358 2615. One of the largest and oldest emporiums of handicrafts and herbal products in Delhi. It was founded in 1932, and offers a large variety of gift items from different parts of India. Textiles, handmade crafts and furniture made by artists and craftsman are sold at affordable prices. Ayurvedic and plant remedies, herbal soap, shampoos, oils and natural fragrances are also manufactured. This complex of two four-storied buildings is welcoming and a popular place for foreign visitors to Delhi.
Eat
[edit | edit source]- 1 Kitchen Cafe Roof Top @ Hotel Shelton, 5043 Main Bazaar, Paharganj, ☏ +91 11 4182 4386, [email protected]. 24 hours daily. Great view and ambiance.
- 2 Tadka 4986, Ram Dwara Rd, Nehru Bazar, Paharganj (side road off of Main Bazaar). A notably clean restaurant by Paharganj standards. Serves only vegetarian food, a full thali for ₹ 60. Their tea is really good and their most popular dish is paneer masala.
Drink
[edit | edit source]Sleep
[edit | edit source]| This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room: | |
| Budget | Under ₹4,000 |
| Mid-range | ₹4,000–8,000 |
| Splurge | Over ₹8,000 |
Budget
[edit | edit source]- 1 Ama Rabsel House, House No 47, New Aruna Nagar (Behind Dolma House restaurant), ☏ +91 11 23816977, +91 11 23812284, [email protected]. Check-out: noon. A surprisingly large and modern hotel, hidden down a dark alleyway next to Dolma House restaurant. Friendly staff appear to be constantly cleaning. The attached restaurant, on the other hand, is of low quality. ₹500-1,000.
- 2 Ashiana, 50 Ara Kashan Rd, Ram Nagar, ☏ +91 11 2362 7617. Single ₹1,290-3,190, double ₹1,490-₹3,490.
- 3 Bloomrooms @ New Delhi Railway Station, 8591 Arakashan Road, ☏ +91 11 412 25666, [email protected]. Check-in: 2PM, check-out: 11AM. Extremely modern and comfortable rooms. Rooms are noisy due to the location near the station. Single ₹1,700, double ₹2,000-2,600, breakfast ₹250.
- 4 Ivory Palace, 14A/27 WEA, Channa Market, Karol Bagh, ☏ +91 11 25744106, +91 99903 81291, [email protected]. From ₹1,200.
- 5 Saar Inn, Karol Bagh, ☏ +91 97 1111 7399. Clean and comfortable with breakfast included, a very friendly professional staff. ₹3,200-4,000.
- 6 Sham Nath Villa, 12, Sham Nath Marg, Civil Lines (Opposite Oberoi Maidens), ☏ +91 11 2397 6660, +91 11 2392 3925, fax: +91 11 2392 3925, [email protected]. Double rooms with air-con US$90. Breakfast included..
- 7 Sunstar Grand, 7A/17, W.E.A. Channa Market, Karol Bagh, ☏ +91-11-42502117. Room service and a restaurant available for breakfast and dinner. Lockers available. Double: ₹2,400..
- 8 Ajanta, Main Bazaar, ☏ +91 11 23620925, +91 11 23620926, +91 11 23620927, [email protected]. Decent restaurant and nice atmosphere on a rooftop bar, although the rooftop seems like a construction site. The staff are often rude and may try to offer overpriced tour package bookings as often as they can. The rooms are small and many do not have windows. Bath/shower facilities are archaic. The hotel does not offer a luggage storage service. US$24.
- 9 Ajay Guest House, 5084-A, Main Bazaar (Opposite Khanna Cinema), ☏ +91 11 4154 1226, +91 11 2358 3125, fax: +91 11 4154 1701, [email protected]. Has a good restaurant and German Brown Bread Bakery. Single ₹700-900, double ₹800-1,200, triple ₹1,200-1,800.
- 10 Chanchal Deluxe, 8524 Arakashan Road (behind Sheela Cinema), ☏ +91 99106 09222, [email protected]. 54 rooms. US$24.
- 11 City Inn DX, 5415-16, Ladoo Ghati, Nehru Bazaar (about a 10-min walk from the railway station), ☏ +91 11 2358 7706, fax: +91 11 2358 7343, [email protected]. Rooms with double bed, flat screen TV (with HBO, VH1, CNN, lots of Hindi channels), clean bathroom with Western toilets. Each bathroom has its own hot water heater. Room service, computers in the lobby for ₹30/hr. Very friendly staff. Located just around the corner from Hotel Relax and the vegetable market. Single ₹400-900, double ₹600-2,000.
- 12 Durga International, 8715, D.B. Gupta Rd (500m from New Delhi Railway Station), ☏ +91 98 9942 3411. Basic hotel. Single from ₹1,900, double from ₹2,100, Family Suite ₹4,500, Honeymoon Suite ₹6,500.
- 13 Hare Rama Guest House, 298 Main Bazaar (Down the side road near the Khanna Cinema), ☏ +91 11 2743 3017. Popular hotel and place to book sleeper buses if you're heading to Dharamsala or Pushkar. They're very laid back staff which makes a nice change. 24 hour hot water and check in, and 24 hours stay from when you arrived. ₹400 single, ₹500 double for an OK non-air-con room. Extra 50% for air-con.
- 14 Metropolis Tourist Home, 1634 Bazaar Hand, ☏ +91 11 2351 8074. More expensive than the average Paharaganj hotel. It also has a good restaurant. Double ₹2,500-3,500.
- 15 Sai Palace, 22, Main Market Road, Pahar Ganj (Middle lane opposite railway station, Paharganj), ☏ +91 95 5568 4663. Double: ₹550-₹1,350.
- 16 Smyle Inn, 916, Chandi Wali Gali, Main Bazaar (right street before Masjid, coming from New Delhi station in Main Bazar), ☏ +91 11 4579 5192, +91 99992 76591, [email protected]. Check-in: Noon, check-out: 11AM. Breakfast and internet access included in price. Single ₹940-1,090, double ₹980-1,180, triple ₹1,200-1,380.
- 17 Vivek, 1534-50 Main Bazaar (about a ten-minute walk from the railway station), ☏ +91 11 2351-2900. This has a pleasant rooftop restaurant, but rather bland food. Economy Room (single ₹650, double ₹750); Standard Room (single ₹750, double ₹800); Luxury Room (₹1,100-1,200); Club Room (₹1,500-1,600).
- 18 Anand Hotel, 8/41, WEA, Abdul Aziz Rd, Channa Market (near Jessa Ram Hospital, Karol Bagh), ☏ +91 11 2875 3181, [email protected]. Check-in: Noon, check-out: Noon. Basic hotel. From ₹1,990.
- 19 Gulnar, 7A / 45 W.E.A. Channa Market, ☏ +91-11-47243737. Check-in: Noon, check-out: Noon. Clean and pleasant design/style. Free breakfast when you book directly from the hotel website; otherwise there is a ₹200 charge. Double: ₹2,400; Triple: ₹3,000.
- 20 Hotel SPB 87, Plot No. 2, Block no. 17A, WEA, Karol Bagh, ☏ +91 9312245516, [email protected]. Check-in: noon, check-out: noon. Budget hotel. ₹1,500.
- 21 Royal Palace, 11A/27, W.E.A, Channa Market, ☏ +91 93107 84498, fax: +91 11 2753 7103. Clean and pleasant design/style.
- 22 Hotel Pitrashish Premium, 59/36, New Rohtak Road, ☏ +91 11 2871 3384, [email protected]. Check-in: Noon, check-out: Noon. Clean and pleasant design/style. ₹2000.
- 23 TJS Grand, 16/16, Arya Samaj Road, ☏ +91 96501 07888. 32 rooms. ₹2,000.