Kabul

Kabul is the capital and largest city of Afghanistan. A crowded metropolis pressed into a basin of the Hindu Kush mountains, its bazaars, battle-scarred buildings and traffic-choked streets bear the traces of an ancient trading city, rapid urban expansion, periods of cosmopolitan ambition, and nearly half a century of war. Since the Taliban returned to power in 2021, the front lines have receded and security has improved, but poverty, choking pollution and the oppressive government – one that has forced women and girls from much of public life – cast a heavy pall over the city. Yet Kabul is more than the rule imposed upon it. Millions of Kabulis carry on with lives shaped – but not wholly defined – by upheaval and repression.

Is Kabul a must-visit city? No. Can a visit be disentangled entirely from the Taliban government? Also no. But Kabul is not the Taliban, and travellers who come with open eyes will encounter a city and a people far more complicated than the regime that rules them. Even setting the Taliban aside, Kabul is a rough and hardscrabble city, best approached by experienced travellers or those travelling with government support.

While the origin of Kabul is unknown, archaeological evidence shows settlement around the 6th century BCE and substantial defensive works dating from at least the 2nd century BCE. From the 1st century CE to the 8th century CE, Kabul and the surrounding basin formed an important center of Buddhism, although for much of this period Kabul was overshadowed by Kapisa, the principal settlement in the Kabul River basin until approximately the mid-7th century.

Throughout its early history, the Kabul region was controlled by numerous political powers, including the Achaemenid Persians, Alexander the Great and his successors, the Seleucid Empire, the Mauryan Empire, the Greco-Bactrian and Indo-Greek kingdoms, the Kushans, the Sasanians, and the Hephthalites. After about 660 CE, Kabul became the seat of the Turk Shahis and subsequently the Hindu Shahis, who resisted Muslim expansion.

Around 870, Kabul was finally conquered by the Muslim Saffarids, although permanent Muslim control was established only later under the Ghaznavids. The city subsequently passed through the hands of the Samanids, Ghaznavids, Ghurids and Khwarazmshahs before being destroyed by Mongol armies around 1220. It was later ruled by the Chagatai khans, Timurids, Mughals, Afsharids, Durranis and Barakzais. The famous Moroccan traveller Ibn Battuta passed through Kabul in 1333, describing it as "formerly a vast town" that had been reduced to a village inhabited by people his account called "Afghans".

Under Tamerlane and his successors in the 14th and 15th centuries, Kabul gradually recovered from its destruction by the Mongols and developed into a regional center of trade. In 1504, the city was captured by the Timurid prince Babur, who later founded the Mughal Empire.

In 1747, Kabul came under control of the Durrani, or Afghan, Empire. In 1775, Kabul became the empire's capital, although the empire later fell into dynastic and tribal conflict. In 1839, British and Indian forces occupied Kabul and established a British-backed government there. They were very unpopular among the local population, who revolted in 1841. In January 1842, most of the roughly 16,000 British and Indian civilians and soldiers attempting to flee from Kabul to Jalalabad were killed or captured, a famous blunder known as the Massacre of Elphinstone's Army. The first Flashman novel is a fictionalized account of this. The British returned in 1878 during the 2nd Anglo-Afghan War and occupied Kabul in 1879; although they suffered serious losses, they ultimately achieved their political aims and withdrew.

In the early 20th century, the city's electricity supply was expanded and Darul Aman Palace was constructed as part of a planned government district. The 1930s to 1960s were a period of growth and modernization in Kabul. Kabul University was opened; roads were paved; modern shops, offices, and schools were opened; shopping centers and a cinema were opened; and Kabul Zoo opened. The city also saw a vibrant tourism industry appear, helped by the Istanbul–New Delhi "Hippie Trail", which passed through Kabul in the 1960s and 1970s.

The 1970s and 1980s brought a turn for the worse. The city saw two coups, in 1973 and 1978. The second coup was carried out by the Marxist PDPA and was followed a year later by a Soviet military intervention to support the PDPA government. From 1979 to 1989, the Soviet Union maintained its military headquarters in Kabul and supported the Afghan government. After the Soviets left, the government collapsed in 1992 and left rival factions to fight over the city, leaving tens of thousands dead and the city devastated. By 1994, much of the city was without electricity or water. In 1996, the political movement known as the Taliban captured the city, killing the former (pre-1992) president and imposing notoriously strict Islamic rule in the areas it controlled.

A US-led military force invaded Afghanistan in October 2001, bombing strategic installations throughout the city to rout the governing Taliban, who quickly fled the city. The city became the capital of the Afghan Transitional Authority and later of the Islamic Republic of Afghanistan. It saw many suicide bombings after 2001, with particularly deadly attacks occurring during the late 2010s. In late 2008, responsibility for the city's security was passed from the NATO-led ISAF to the Afghan National Police and the Afghan National Army. After 2001, billions of dollars in aid and foreign investment were used to improve the city. Most of the major roads were paved and improved, government buildings were extensively renovated, new hotels opened, the zoo was renovated, many museums reopened, and utilities were extensively reconstructed. Some modern-style tower blocks and a handful of glitzy shopping malls also appeared, while electricity and water supplies improved, although neither became entirely reliable.

In 2021, the Taliban recaptured the city after a campaign of about four months, overthrowing the Islamic Republic of Afghanistan and reestablishing the Islamic Emirate of Afghanistan. This marked a significant shift, with the Taliban imposing notoriously strict Islamic governance leading to reduced foreign presence and restricted women's rights.

Since the Taliban's takeover, many development projects have been halted and internationally funded reconstruction efforts have slowed significantly, with limited progress on some major infrastructure projects. Economic constraints and Taliban restrictions have also sharply reduced private construction, although municipal road-building and other public works have since accelerated. That said, roads and other infrastructure in outlying areas remain in poor condition. Electricity and water supplies remain highly inconsistent, with electricity outages occurring several times daily as of 2026 and water supply being nearly as unreliable. On the positive side, the security situation in the capital has improved significantly, and as of 2026, the city is largely safe for foreign visitors – foreign women included – in strong contrast to the plight of Afghan women under the Taliban's rule.

Kabul's climate is greatly influenced by its location in a valley at 1,800 m (5,900 ft). Summers (Jun-Sep) are hot and dry, averaging from the high 20s to the mid-30s °C (80-95 °F) with next to no precipitation. Autumn (Oct-Nov) is temperate and sees very little precipitation. Winters (Dec-Mar) are cold and the time of year which sees the most precipitation (mostly snow, but also ice, freezing rain, and sleet on warmer days). January is the coldest month, averaging 4/-7 °C (39/19 °F). Spring (late Mar-early June) is temperate with rain tapering off by early May.

The city lies in a valley and some villages on the edge of the city are a few hundred meters higher and thus cooler in the summer and colder and snowier in the winters. In winter, heavy snowfall can disrupt roads leading to and from Kabul, most notoriously the highway north through the Salang Pass, which is periodically closed due to snow and avalanches.

Central Kabul straddles the Kabul River. The Old City, including Mandawi Bazaar, lies south of the river, while Shahr-e Naw (meaning New City) to the north is the principal traveller-oriented district, largely walkable with hotels and restaurants but also, sadly, numerous street children (see Stay safe). Wazir Akbar Khan, just east of Shahr-e Naw, is one of Kabul's wealthiest districts and another center for accommodation and dining, particularly at the higher end. Beyond the central city, Kabul sprawls into numerous outer districts. Hills funnel traffic onto a limited number of routes, so places that look close on a map can be slow to reach.

• 34.56586169.2123061 Kabul International Airport (KBL  ^IATA) (5 km northeast of the city center), ☏ +93 9251-61001. Has two separate terminals, one for international flights and the other for domestic flights. The airport is a hub for Ariana Afghan Airlines, and Kam Air. Airport facilities include restaurants, post office and car parking.  (updated Dec 2023)

The trip from the airport to the city center via taxi should cost about AFN 300-500 (2026). During daytime, you can get a taxi for cheaper (AFN 100–200) if you exit the airport and hail a taxi on the road outside the main gate. See Taxi scams for tips on dealing with Kabuli taxi drivers.

When flying out you will probably end up in Car Park C, and will have to get the shuttle bus to the terminal building. Or you may even be dropped off at the airport gate and have to walk all the way in. When flying out expect multiple ticket, passport and baggage checks, so allow plenty of time before your flight. As of 2026, you are allowed to leave the country by air with at most US$5000 cash of any currency (as opposed to only US$500 when exiting by land).

International destinations include:

• Ariana Afghan Airlines – from Ankara, Delhi, Dubai, Istanbul, Jeddah, Mashhad, Moscow-Sheremetyevo, Tehran and Ürümqi.
• flydubai – from Dubai
• Iran Airtour^{[dead link]} – from Mashhad and Tehran
• Kam Air – from Delhi, Doha, Dubai, Islamabad, Istanbul, Jeddah, Mashhad, Riyadh, Tashkent and Tehran.
• Mahan Air – from Mashhad and Tehran.
• Turkish Airlines – from Istanbul
• Yazd Airways^{[dead link]} – from Tehran

While the airport is not bad for a developing country, expect very basic conditions at other Afghan airports.

• Ariana Afghan Airlines – from Herat, Kandahar and Mazar-e-Sharif.
• Kam Air – from Herat, Kandahar, Khost and Mazar-e-Sharif.

• The highway from Kandahar runs via Ghazni and Qalat. Much of the roughly 500 km (310 mi) road is being rebuilt as of 2026. The journey takes around 8-11 hours.
• The highway from Mazar-e Sharif and the North via the Salang Pass may close during wintertime due to snow and avalanches. A substantial section to the south of the Salang Tunnel is unpaved as of 2026 and makes for slow going. The highway is usually clogged with truck traffic.
• The highway from Jalalabad takes 2-3 hours. By this road you can come all the way from Torkham border (Khyber Pass) with Pakistan.
• From Bamiyan it takes 4-6 bumpy hours.

Private bus operators serve some destinations in full-size coaches. Coaches from reputable companies are reasonably modern and comfortable, although rather slow compared to shared taxis.

• 34.576969.11682 Terminal-e Paytakht (ترمینل پایتخت), Tajikan Road. Buses for Mazar-e Sharif, Kunduz, Sheberghan, and Maimana. The trip from Mazar-e Sharif takes 10-12 hours in a bus (a shared taxi is significantly faster).  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.524469.05313 Terminal-e Kampani (ترمینل کمپنی), Kabul-Ghazni Hwy. Buses for Kandahar, Herat, Ghazni, Lashkargah, and Farah.  (updated Jul 2026)

Minibuses and shared taxis arrive and depart from six official locations around the city. Shared taxis and most minibuses leave when full rather than on fixed schedules. Shared taxis have no particular appearance of their own – they look the same as city taxis (i.e. turquoise).

You may be asked if you want a "special taxi". This means you pay for the entire taxi instead of sharing it with strangers. If you'd prefer this, try to discern the going per-seat rate for shared taxis to your destination, multiply it by the number of seats, and then negotiate a discount. Drivers are usually happy to give a discount if it means they can depart sooner instead of having to wait for additional passengers. You can usually also buy extra seats (or an entire backseat) to give yourself extra room in a shared taxi.

• 34.567969.39374 Pul-e Charkhi Transport Stand (هدهٔ پلچرخی), Kabul-Nangarhar Hwy. Minibuses and shared taxis for Jalalabad and sometimes Torkham at the Khyber Pass border crossing. Construction of a new terminal building began in April 2025.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.563969.12195 Sarai Shomali Transport Stand (هدهٔ سرای شمالی), Kunduz-Kabul Hwy. Minibuses and shared taxis for Bagram and the Panjshir Valley.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.616669.0796 Mazar–Kunduz Shared Taxi Stand (هدهٔ مزار), Kunduz-Kabul Hwy. Minibuses and shared taxis for Mazar-e Sharif and Kunduz.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.51369.00687 Qala-e Haidar Khan Transport Stand (هدهٔ قلعهٔ حیدرخان), Kabul-Ghazni Hwy. Minibuses and shared taxis for Kandahar and Ghazni.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.493169.02248 Barchi Transport Stand (هدهٔ برچی), Shaheed Mazari Rd. Minibuses and shared taxis for Bamiyan.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.433169.18959 Sang-e Nawishta Transport Stand (هدهٔ سنگ‌نوشته), Kabul-Gardez Hwy. Minibuses and shared taxis for Khost.  (updated Jul 2026)

As of 2026, travel to any province in Afghanistan (including Kabul) requires a permit. In Kabul, these can be obtained at the 34.533669.1981 Afghan Tour Office on Shash Darak Road for AFN 1000 each.

The Millie Bus (Afghanistan's government-run bus service) operates routes in Kabul, but services are unreliable, and many buses are old. Taxis are the far easier option for getting around the city.

As of 2026, taxis cost AFN 100–200 within the city, depending on destination and negotiation. Destinations farther afield, such as the airport or Qargha Lake, will cost AFN 200–400. If you don't negotiate hard, or if you take the first taxi you find, expect to pay about double these prices as a foreigner. Some drivers speak basic English, but they may charge more and may be hard to find other than near major hotels or the airport. After dark, taxis are scarce, so keep trusted taxi contacts as a backup.

In 2023, the Taliban-run traffic authority re-registered all taxi drivers in Afghanistan to reduce kidnappings and crimes involving unlicensed taxis. (As part of this change, all licensed taxis in the country were repainted from yellow to turquoise.) The initiative was deemed a success: Kabul police claimed that kidnappings had fallen "nearly to zero". Nowadays, being overcharged is your biggest threat. See Taxi scams below for tips on how to avoid being overcharged by taxi drivers in Kabul.

Although there are no legal restrictions on foreigners as of 2026, taxi drivers may refuse to pick up women if they are not wearing a veil or a face covering, or if they are travelling without a male companion, as these rules apply to Afghan women. Aside from the veil, however, these rules are regularly ignored. Afghan women must sit in the back seat.

There are no ride-hailing services in Kabul as of 2026.

Car rentals are limited, and driving yourself is discouraged due to heavy traffic and poor road conditions. The frequent checkpoints in the city can be an annoyance. Afghanistan drives on the right side, although right-hand-drive cars are almost as common as left-hand-drive cars.

Central Kabul is compact, making walking viable in spring and fall. Summers are hot and dusty, while winters bring snow and mud. Pavements are scarce, and crossing roads requires caution.

Despite its long history, Kabul is rather short on historical sights. Centuries of warfare and decades of urban sprawl have taken their toll. Most contemporary attractions are disappointingly lackluster, poorly maintained, and surprisingly expensive. The city is more compelling around Shah-Do Shamshira Mosque and the Mandawi Bazaar, offering a glimpse of old Kabul amid a maze of crowded lanes and bustling markets.

• 34.50294569.1594711 Bagh-e Babur (Gardens of Babur). The gardens surround the tomb of the first Mughal Emperor Babur. Though he had wished to be buried here, he was originally buried in Agra, and later moved to this spot. Historically, the gardens have been visited by Afghans for picnics and lazy afternoons. There is a swimming pool, a small mosque for prayers and a small museum among other things. As of 2026, the tomb is padlocked and the gardens aren't really worth the steep entrance price. 10 Afs for locals, 350 Afs for foreigners, and an extra 150 Afs for camera.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.53999469.1299332 Bagh-e Bala. Built in the late 19th century, it served as a summer palace for Amir Abdur Rahman. Today, much of the original interior has been preserved, and the area around the palace has become a large park. Under renovation as of 2026. Free, but this may change when renovations are completed.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.54275369.1738983 British Cemetery. Where foreigners are buried in Kabul. There are also memorial plaques commemorating those ISAF forces killed. Closed and padlocked as of 2026.  (updated Jul 2026)

• 34.46527169.1194254 Darul Aman Palace (at the end of Daral Aman Rd, south of the city, next to the Kabul Museum). Built as King Amanullah's Palace in the 1920s, it has been destroyed and rebuilt a few times over. By 2019, restoration works had been largely completed on the palace, which suffered massive damage during the 1990s civil war. 500 Afs if you believe the guards.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.45466269.1133655 Tajbeg Palace (د تاج بېګ ماڼۍ). Not to be confused with Darul Aman, this palace was also built in the 1920 built to house the Royal family.  (updated Aug 2017)
• 34.50961169.1550886 Kabul Zoo. Daily 06:00–18:00. The zoo is very popular with Afghans, and houses over 100 animals, albeit in relatively poor condition. China was once one of the main donors of animals in the zoo, but after the death of a few animals to disease and malnutrition, China has announced that there will be no donations until living conditions improve. 10 Afs for locals, 100 Afs for foreigners.  
• 34.5529469.034427 Lake Qargha (9 km from the city). Described as Kabul's lake district.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.516469.17548 Mausoleum of Nadir Shah and Zahir Shah (Teppe Maranjan). This is the site where King Nadir Shah and his son, Zahir Shah, are buried. Restored in 2012 after being damaged during the wars. A steep 350 Afs for foreigners.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.50555669.1916679 Bala Hissar. Ancient fortress first constructed in the 5th century AD. As of 2026, it is closed to visitors.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.503769.167210 Old City Wall. Walking along the city wall offers rewarding views over the city. The wall is still in pretty good condition, running west-east from Babur Gardens over to Bala Hissar (about 3 km in distance). Start from Babur Gardens because you may not find the wall if starting from Bala Hissar fort. Ask staff at Babur Gardens for directions and security advice – you may want to walk along the wall and then turn back because, according to locals, the mountains are not safe.  (updated Feb 2026)
• 34.517769.161411 TV Mount. A hill topped with television masts that offers great views of the city.  (updated Jul 2026)

• 34.467569.1212 National Museum of Afghanistan (several miles from downtown, across from Darulaman Palace). 10:00-16:00 weekdays, 09:00-noon Fridays. The National Museum of Afghanistan once housed one of the greatest collections of Central Asian artifacts in the world. A large percentage of the previous collection was looted in the 1990s during Taliban rule after the upper floors of the museum were bombed. Many of the early Buddhist treasures were destroyed by the Taliban at the same time as the Bamiyan Buddhas. Looted items still turn up around the world at auctions. The museum is open once again, with far more modest, but still impressive, displays of early Buddhist and Islamic artifacts. Entrance AFN 100, with camera AFN 200.  (updated Mar 2021)
• 34.517569.171113 National Gallery of Afghanistan, Asamayi Watt. 08:00-ish to 16:00-ish, closed Fridays, and you may struggle to be allowed in on Thu afternoons. A beautiful gallery in a charming old-Kabul house that has been carefully restored. The collection used to have 820 paintings and portraits but 50% have been looted or destroyed; the director said the Taliban destroyed 210 portraits. Most of the collection is of European and Afghan landscapes and portraits of famous Afghan writers and kings and a portrait of the French writer Victor Hugo. Well worth making the effort to see. The Sultani Gallery is attached, but the opening hours are a mystery. Entrance 250 Afs.  (updated Mar 2021)
• 34.524769.165514 National Archives of Afghanistan, Salang Wat Rd. The National Archive contains numerous historic documents, with some on display in a small museum.  (updated Mar 2021)

• 34.51566769.17144415 Shah-Do Shamshira Mosque (شاه دوشمشېره جومات). Historic mosque built during the reign of Amanullah Khan in the 1920s. Its Italian decorative stucco makes it quite unique compared to other mosques in the region.  (updated Mar 2021)
• 34.517869.1916 Id Gah Mosque. Second largest mosque in Kabul but considered the cardinal mosque in Afghanistan. Up to a million people gathers here during Eid prayers. The mosque has been the scene of festivals and ceremonies and was the site where Amanullah Khan announced Afghanistan's independence on August 19th, 1919.  (updated Mar 2021)
• 34.5269.146617 Sakhi Shrine (Blue Mosque) (Karte Sakhi). Decorated with glazed tiles in a neo-Safavid Persian style, the building bears many inscriptions, including dedicatory texts, Qurʾanic excerpts, prayers, Hadith, and poetry. It is believed that the shrine marks the spot where the cloak of Muhammad was kept on its way to its present location in the Shrine of the Cloak in Kandahar.  (updated Jul 2026)

The Mandawi Bazaar (see Buy below) has a couple of unique markets tucked away amongst the chaos. You (hopefully) won't be buying anything here, but they might be of interest from a dark tourism perspective.

• 34.515669.179818 Gun market. Guns, guns and more guns. Mostly rifles (and sewing machines, weirdly). Don't be shy – the dealers are happy to let you pose with the guns and take photos.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.514669.1819 Bird market (Ka Faroshi). A centuries-old alleyway lined with cages filled with songbirds, fighting birds, and the occasional sickly bunny. Branching corridors leading to dilapidated courtyards where chickens are slaughtered by hand with a quick twist of the neck. Not for animal lovers nor the fainthearted.  (updated Jul 2026)

• 34.5502369.035171 Kabul Golf Club, Qargha Rd, ☏ +93 79 22 63 27. Closed down in 1978 by the Soviet Union, it reopened in 2004 after a 25-year hiatus. This 9-hole course bills itself as "extreme golf with an attitude". 750 Afs/US$15 greens fee for 9 or 18 holes.  
• 34.519669.18042 Ariana Cinema, Pashtunistan Square. Primarily shows Bollywood or trashy action flicks, and the occasional American blockbuster.  
• 34.528369.18483 Amani High School sports field. Open to the public on Tuesday afternoons and Fridays: football (soccer) with local Afghan guys, frisbee (with a collection of expats) and a 400 m (1,300 ft) running track in comparatively green and pleasant surroundings. Free.  
• 34.51853169.1937114 Ghazi Stadium (National Stadium). Home of the Afghan football team. Just past the stadium is the mine museum as well as a road up the hill where you will find hundreds of Afghan men and boys flying kites on holidays.  
• 34.51569.1983335 Kabul National Cricket Stadium. Home of the Afghan cricket team.  

You can change currency (e.g. USD to AFN) in banks or at local money changers on the street. If you do it at local money changers, there is no fee, but make sure you know the exchange rate before attempting. A popular place to change currency is at the tables on the street in front of Majid Mall – rates there are generally fine.

ATMs and banking services are gradually expanding.

• Afghanistan International Bank (AIB). Has many branches and ATMs around Kabul. ATMs should work with foreign cards, although you might want to say a quick prayer to Allah beforehand. They dispense Afghani only and the fee is a whopping 7% of your withdrawal amount. (updated Jun 2026)
• MoneyGram. Has many branches across the city. 
• Western Union. Has many branches across the city. 

• 34.51669.1781 Mandawi Bazaar. Sprawling and chaotic, Mandawi Bazaar is Kabul's oldest and largest commercial district. A dense network of streets, warehouses and wholesale markets, you can find almost anything here, and cheap. Different sections specialize in different products. Expect crowded alleys, porters moving goods, shopkeepers hawking their wares, sacks of produce, old commercial buildings, and heavy pedestrian traffic. Wear closed-toed shoes or don't look down.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.57969.13962 Lycee Maryam Bazaar. More modern than Mandawi Bazaar. A dense concentration of shops selling clothing, shoes, cosmetics, household goods and consumer products.  (updated Jul 2026)

• 34.523769.17363 Gulbahar Business Center (مرکز تجارتی گلبهار سنتر), Wazkir Akbar Khan Road and Ibni Sina Road (next to Malik Azghar Square). Daily 07:30-20:00. One of the larger indoor shopping malls in Kabul.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.532569.1655564 Kabul City Center (کابل سیتی سینتر) (next to Shahr-e Naw Park). Has some very smart shops.  (updated Mar 2021)
• 34.518769.18095 New Khairkhwa Market (نوی خیرخواه مارکیت), Nadir Pashtun Road (near Pashunistan Square), ☏ +93 74 9102030. Daily 08:00-20:00. Another large indoor shopping mall.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.533869.17276 Majid Mall (in Supreme Tower). Yet another large shopping mall. There are currency exchange kiosks outside the front of the mall.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.529769.17047 Roshan Plaza. Has some quite respectable clothes shops.  (updated Jul 2026)

• 34.542369.16388 ABC Super Market, 3rd Street and Taimani Road (near Qala-e Fathullah), ☏ +93 79 510 0401, +93 79 5100402. Daily 08:00–22:00. Sells many types of foreign food and household products. It has free delivery.  (updated Aug 2025)
• 34.533269.17589 Afghan Spinneys Supermarket, Shirpur Square (where Sher Ali Khan Road meets Butcher Street), ☏ +93 79 388 8836, +93 70 3344662. Daily 07:00–21:00. Sells many types of foreign food and household products.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.506169.142310 Al-Wahed Market (Kart-e Char), ☏ +93 78 666 6640. Daily 07:00–23:00. Sells local and foreign food products, particularly Iranian and Pakistani goods.  (updated Aug 2025)
• 34.537369.165611 Finest Superstore, 3rd Ansari, Sulh Road (Shahr-e Naw, opposite Kabul Business Center), ☏ +93 73 149 4949. Daily 08:00–21:30. Sells many types of foreign food and household products.  (updated Aug 2025)

Food is a definite bright spot of Kabul, as it is cheap, delicious, and safe – except for street food, which is only cheap and delicious. Best not to risk the latter unless you've lived in Afghanistan a while. Restaurants open and close with surprising frequency, so it is a good idea to check whether a place is still operating before heading out. Most restaurant menus are in Dari; take a photo of the menu and ask an AI chatbot to explain it to you.

• 34.538369.16981 Andkhoi Bastan Turkmen Restaurant, Shahid Road (in front of Etisalat Main Office), ☏ +93 78 565 6575. Offers traditional food.  
• 34.532869.1652 Ansari Kunduz Kabab, Ahmad Zahir Road and Kolula Pushta Road, ☏ +93 72 825 8140. Offers traditional food.  
• 34.537369.17223 Biryani House, ☏ +93 78 949 4747. The special chicken biryani is excellent.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.535869.16044 Bolani, Kolula Pushta Road, ☏ +93 76 726 5264. Offers bolanis only (Afghan stuffed flatbread).  
• 34.53469.17265 Chicking, Sulh Road (inside Majid Mall), ☏ +93 78 600 0001. Fast food, English menu.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.532169.16496 Mr. Cook, Ahmad Zahir Road, ☏ +93 76 711 0110.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.533869.17267 Buffalo Kings, Sulh Road (inside Majid Mall), ☏ +93 79 966 2662. Fast food, English menu.  
• 34.533369.17588 NFC Restaurant, Sher Ali Khan Rd. The food is excellent quality.  (updated Jul 2026)

• 34.537869.1689 Cheezious Bites, Haji Yaqub Square, First Street, Shahr-e Naw (opposite Police District 10, Aminzada Tower), ☏ +93 78 812 9703.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.523569.173810 Chief Burger Restaurant, Malik Asghar Square, Wazir Akbar Khan Road (inside Gulbahar Center), ☏ +93 78 946 5159, +93 77 729 0010. 24 hours.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.50669.144611 Galaxy Continental (گلکسی کانتیننتال), Second Street, Kart-e Char, ☏ +93 78 532 3334.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.511169.162412 Marhaba Restaurant (مرحبا رستورانت), Asmayi Road, City Park (near Artal Bridge), ☏ +93 76 656 0006. The food is average, but if you pay 100 Afs you can eat inside a former Kam Air MD-87 airliner, which is perched on the restaurant roof.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.535569.171313 Mezban Restaurant (رستورانت میزبان), Butcher Street, Shahr-e Naw. Fast food, English menu. Phone orders and home delivery available.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.532669.173814 Paaeez Continental (پاییز کانتیننتل), Sulh Road, Shahr-e Naw (opposite from Emergency Hospital), ☏ +93 78 390 6906.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.530669.163615 Paitakht Restaurant (رستورانت پایتخت), Ahmad Zahir Road, Shahr-e Naw (across from Islamic Bank of Afghanistan), ☏ +93 72 946 1120.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.54269.16616 Sufi Mahal Restaurant, Street 1, Taimani Qala-e Fathullah, ☏ +93 74 910 0101. Serves traditional Afghan food.  (updated Aug 2025)

• 34.533969.172617 Al Arab Mandi Restaurant, 3rd Floor of Majid Mall, Shahr-e Naw, ☏ +93 77 958 7000.  (updated Nov 2025)
• 34.534669.170918 Barg Continental Restaurant, Sulh Road and Park-e Shahr-e Naw Street (at northeast corner of Shahr-e Naw Park), ☏ +93 79 217 1000, +93 79 930 8989. 24 hours. Has two branches and provides cuisines of various countries.  (updated Nov 2025)
• 34.50669.144419 Bukhara Restaurant, Ahmad Zahir Road, Shahrara Road (near the Embassy of Netherlands), ☏ +93 78 944 4222. 24 hours. It has several branches, one of which is in Kart-e Char neighborhood.  (updated Nov 2025)
• 34.520569.17820 Café Zarnegar, Froshga Street (In the Kabul Grand Hotel), ☏ +93 79 965 4000. 06:30-22:00 daily, brunch 11:00-16:00. Tasty high-end international food and nice atmosphere, one of the nicest restaurants in the city. Their large buffet is probably the best in the country. Mains US$15-20.  
• 34.542469.148821 Istanbul Family Restaurant, Kolula Pushta Road (short drive northwest of Shahr-e Naw Park on Kolula Pushta Road, 9th & 10th floors inside the Kabul Crown building.), ☏ +93 78 601 2020, +93 77 688 8111. Turkish Restaurant.  (updated Nov 2025)
• 34.533169.166522 Kaboora Restaurant (رستورانت کابورا), Shahr-e Naw Street in Shahr-e Naw, ☏ +93 79 913 5013.  
• 34.537569.165223 Namak Restaurant (رستورانت نمک), 3rd Ansari Road and Sulh Road, Shahr-e Naw, ☏ +93 73 010 1020. 24 hr.  (updated Nov 2025)
• 34.537469.124924 Pamir Restaurant, Bagh-e Bala Road (at the Intercontinental Hotel), ☏ +93 20 220 1321. Offers excellent and cheap buffet.  
• 34.53469.172625 Prime Steakhouse, Majid Mall in Shahr-e Naw, ☏ +93 78 916 1616.  (updated Nov 2025)
• 34.532469.154626 Shaam Kabul Restaurant (شام کابل), Ahmad Zahir Road, ☏ +93 73 122 7722.  
• 34.53769.166227 The Cafeteria, Second Ansari Road and Sulh Road, Shahr-e Naw, ☏ +93 72 858 5856. Has another location in Kart-e Char neighborhood.  
• 34.533869.172528 Turkish Family Restaurant and Cafe, Majid Mall, 4th Floor, Shahr-e Naw, ☏ +93 78 600 0011.  
• 34.533469.17229 Ziyafat Restaurant (رستورانت ضیافت), Sulh Road, Shahr-e Naw (near Shahr-e Naw Park in City Mall), ☏ +93 77 020 0200. 24 hours.  (updated Nov 2025)

Afghanistan is a tea country, and Afghans drink enormous amounts of it, especially green tea (chay-e sabz) and black tea (chay-e siyah). Traditional chaikhanas are the analogue to cafés in the Arab world. However, much of Kabul’s traditional urban fabric was badly damaged during decades of war, and the city’s subsequent rapid and chaotic expansion contributed to the decline of its traditional tea-house culture. Today, Kabul lacks a conspicuous chaikhana scene, although traditional tea houses can still be found around the Mandawi Bazaar and elsewhere in the old commercial center.

Bear in mind that chaikhanas have traditionally been overwhelmingly male spaces, and this convention has been reinforced by the Taliban’s institutionalized misogyny, so female travellers may be ushered to a separate room, simply raise eyebrows, or occasionally be refused admission altogether.

Coffee proliferated during the Islamic Republic of 2004-2021, catering largely to young urbanites and expats, but the scene has contracted considerably since the Taliban takeover.

• 34.533969.17251 Slice Bakery, Sulh Rd (inside Majid Mall). Has surprisingly good coffee.  (updated Jul 2026)

It ain't happening. Under the Taliban, Kabul is completely dry.

Kabul has a range of hotels and guesthouses. Guesthouses, often large Pakistani-style mansions, are common in Wazir Akbar Khan and Shar-e Naw, and may offer better value than hotels. Most rates are negotiable, particularly at the budget end – try booking through WhatsApp instead of online booking platforms.

As of 2026, city electricity is intermittent and city water may be off or intermittent for days at a time. If these utilities are essential for you, it is worth asking your accommodation if they have contingency systems (generators, water tanks, etc.).

• 34.531769.17591 Afghania Guest House, Shirpur Square, Ankara Road (across from the Embassy of Iran), ☏ +93 73 088 8835. Has a lovely garden and a delicious breakfast. Air conditioning. Hot water questionable. Popular with backpackers. Singles AFN 1300 with shared bathroom, AFN 2000 with private bathroom, all very negotiable.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.530769.16892 Shahr Guest House (previously Salsal Guesthouse) (Shahr e Naw Front side of MTN), ☏ +93 79 322 6464, shahr.guesthouse@gmail.com. Reasonably clean, shared bathrooms, friendly manager (Bashir) speaks English. Most rooms have cable TV and a fan. Singles from US$10, doubles from US$20 per night.  (updated Feb 2026)
• 34.531669.16453 Khyber Hotel, Ahmad Zahir Road, Shahr-e Naw (Around the corner from Shahr-e Naw Park, on the southwest side.), ☏ +93 79 888 8141, khaibarhotel622@gmail.com. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. Nice hotel in the center and safest part of Kabul, helpful English speaking staff. Serves rich breakfast. Double with breakfast 1500 Afs.  (updated Feb 2026)

• 34.53646569.1677884 Golden Star Hotel, Sulh Road, Haji Yaqoob Square, Shahr-e Naw, ☏ +93 79 133 3777, Reception@goldenstar.af. Clean and modern 4-star hotel, with restaurant, conference hall, a small gym, and high speed Internet in each room.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.530669.16565 Park Star Hotel, Yaftali St, Shar-e Naw (on a back street, behind the Kabul City Center), ☏ +93 77 722 0221, +93 20 221 3331, info@parkstarhotel.af.  (updated Jul 2026)

• 34.52055669.1780566 Kabul Grand Hotel, Froshgah St, ☏ +93 79 965 4000. One of the best in the city, clean and modern 5-star hotel with three great restaurants.  (updated Nov 2025)
• 34.53694469.1252787 Kabul Intercontinental Hotel, Bagh-e Bala Road, Bagh-e Bala Hill, ☏ +93 20 220 1321. Another 5-star hotel with nice restaurants and a swimming pool.  (updated Mar 2021)
• 34.530469.17388 Kabul Taj Hotel, Shirpur Square, Goharshad Begum Road (across from the Embassy of Iran), ☏ +93 79 738 8388, info@kabultajhotel.com. Another 5-star hotel with nice restaurants and a swimming pool.  (updated Nov 2025)
• 34.531369.17739 Kabul Star Hotel, Shirpur Square, Ankara Road (across from the Embassy of Turkey), ☏ +93 20 231 3131, +93 20 230 4646, info@kabulstarhotel.af.  (updated Nov 2025)
• 34.53227469.16532710 Safi Landmark Hotel, Ahmad Zaher Road (top six floors of Kabul City Center shopping mall), ☏ +93 20 220 3131. Large conference hall, restaurant, sauna, Jacuzzi and gym area, apartments also available.  (updated Jul 2026)

The mobile telephone system in Kabul is well developed, reliable, and provides a decent signal throughout most of the city. 5G has not arrived as of 2026 but 4G is widely available. Roshan is considered the best mobile provider within Kabul. If you're venturing outside of Kabul, either Roshan or Afghan wireless should work. Many Afghans use both with dual SIM card slots, switching between providers as needed.

You can buy a SIM card upon arrival at the airport. Outside the airport, both Roshan and Afghan wireless have sales offices within the city. Bring your passport and be prepared to sit a while.

• 34.53669.18451 Roshan, St 13, Wazir Akbar Khan (off Wazir Akbar Khan Rd).  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.535269.17932 Afghan Wireless, St 15, Wazir Akbar Khan (off Wazir Akbar Khan Rd).  (updated Jul 2026)

Wired internet and WiFi in Kabul is not good. Expect slow speeds and intermittent outages. If you require connectivity, ensure you can hotspot via your mobile phone and that your mobile plan provides a sufficiently large amount of data, or consider satellite internet.

The days when one couldn't venture out after sunset in Kabul are over, and safety has significantly improved since the Taliban takeover in 2021. Remain cautious, however. Kabul is a poverty-stricken city, and if you are recognizable as a foreigner you will stand out. Don't walk alone outside Shahr-e Naw (the New City) after dark. Avoid flashing large amounts of cash at any time of day.

It’s common to encounter children begging for money, particularly in Shar-e Naw. While their requests may seem harmless, giving money can attract more children, quickly escalating into a crowd that’s difficult to manage. This can pose a safety risk, as it draws attention and may invite pickpocketing or other opportunistic crimes. To stay safe, politely decline and avoid engaging further.

In traditional residential areas near the city wall, conservative locals may view outsiders with suspicion, and children may throw stones or set dogs on strangers. Don't go over the mountains near the city wall – no one lives there and, according to locals, you can be robbed or shot at.

Due to decades of foreign occupation, Kabulis are used to dealing with foreigners and adept at taking their money. While outright robbery is rare since the Taliban takeover, overcharging and short-change scams are common. Always know how much you should pay and always count your change when it is handed back to you. Hide your camera when entering tourist attractions to avoid being hit with a surprise camera fee. If you can, ask for an itemized receipt for anything you pay for.

Many, if not most taxi drivers attempt to overcharge foreigners. Always negotiate a price before you ride. If possible, ask a local the appropriate price to your destination. Don't negotiate numbers verbally; instead, type the prices on your phone (e.g. a calculator app) so you and the driver agree on the same figure. Ensure the driver is aware that the price is for the taxi, not per person, as many will ridiculously claim at the end of your ride. When your ride is over, most will ask for more money for whatever reason (petrol prices being a popular one in 2026); show them the price you pre-negotiated on your phone, pay without flashing excess cash, and quickly be on your way.

Taliban foot soldiers mostly ignore tourists, and, unlike Afghan women, foreign women face no special restrictions or maltreatment. However, if you are not discernibly foreign and not abiding by Taliban dress codes (veil and face covering for women, beard length for men, etc.), then you are more likely to attract attention. They may check your documents – be sure to carry your passport and travel permits on you at all times. Usually, if they acknowledge you at all, they'll just want to chat. That said, do not take photos or video of sensitive locations, such as government buildings, military bases and embassies, nor of government vehicles or military equipment (commandeered American Humvees included). The Taliban will not take kindly to this.

Restaurant food in Kabul is generally safe, and Afghans are excellent cooks. However, you should use the old traveller's trick: find restaurants that are popular with locals (locals tend not to return to restaurants with poor food hygiene). In Kabul, it is possible to use Google Maps to find restaurants – look for those with a reasonably high number of (positive) reviews. Remember, it is more the number of reviews that counts, and less the average rating.

That said, there are foods you should avoid, even in restaurants, namely those that are uncooked, unpasteurized, or may have been prepared with contaminated water. Stay well away from dairy products such as ice cream. Raw salads, unpeeled fruit and fresh juices are a risk. Ask for bottled water if you can, and avoid water served to you in a glass (hot tea is fine). Essentially, stick to food that is hot.

Street food is another matter altogether: don't do it. And don't say we didn't warn you.

Kabul is one of the most polluted cities in the world. Air pollution is a serious problem, particularly in winter. Vehicle exhaust is a major contributor year-round. Winter brings smoke from household heating. In summer, heating smoke is replaced by dust. This is all trapped within Kabul's mountainous geography. It might be worth bringing a particulate mask (e.g. an N95) on your visit, especially if travelling in winter, as they are difficult to find in the city. Travellers with asthma should carry their inhalers.

Ground and water pollution is just as serious. Sewage infrastructure is limited. Garbage accumulates almost everywhere. The pitiable Kabul River is essentially an open sewer and trash receptacle. The open drains that run alongside the roadways are heavily contaminated. Drink bottled water, and bottled water only. Wash your hands frequently, especially before eating. Avoid stagnant water and open drains like the plague. Clean and disinfect cuts promptly, as these can quickly become infected.

The healthcare system in Kabul is limited, especially since the Taliban takeover. For severe illness or trauma, most embassies recommend medical evacuation (e.g. to Islamabad or Dubai).

• 34.520269.13313 French Medical Institute for Mothers and Children (FMIC) (behind Kabul Medical University), ☏ +93 79 1070 000, information@fmic.org.af. Generally regarded as the best hospital in Afghanistan. English-speaking staff. Despite the name, care is not limited to mothers and children.  (updated Jul 2026)

The operations of many embassies were suspended when the Taliban took power in 2021. The embassies listed below are open and provide consular services as of 2026.

• 34.527269.17674 China, Sardar Shah Mahmoud Ghazi Watt, ☏ +93 20 210 2545, fax: +93 20 210 7248, chinaemb_af@mfa.gov.cn. Sun-Thu 08:30-12:30, 14:30-18:30.  (updated Feb 2024)
• 34.530969.17535 Iran, Shir Ali Khan Rd, ☏ +93 77 227 5924. Thu 08:30-13:00, Sat-Wed 08:30 - 17:00.  (updated Sep 2025)
• 34.539769.18346 Kazakhstan, Wazir Akbar Khan.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.537469.13997 Pakistan, Kārte Parwān. Sun-Thu 09:00-13:00.  (updated Sep 2025)
• 34.491869.14038 Russia, Dar-ul-Aman Rd. Sun-Thu 09:00-18:00.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.530269.17729 Turkey, Shah Mahmoud Ghazi 134. Sun-Thu 09:00-12:00, 13:00-16:00.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.538669.181810 Turkmenistan, Wazir Akbar Khan.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 34.502969.143611 Uzbekistan, Khaji Mulla Watt.  (updated Jul 2026)

Travelling within Afghanistan outside of Kabul (and within Kabul, technically), as of 2026, will require a permit. See Travel permits above.

• Istalif, a village in a side valley of the Shamali Plain makes for an excellent overnight or day trip destination.
• Panjshir Valley. This picturesque valley was one of many areas where the mujahideen resisted Soviet forces. Ruined tanks can be seen near the river and at the valley entrance.
• Bamiyan and Band-e Amir National Park. One of the most beautiful regions of Afghanistan. Bamiyan is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List and is particularly known for the two colossal Buddha statues that were destroyed by the Taliban in 2001. Band-e Amir is a gorgeous group of turquoise lakes about 75 km (47 mi) west of Bamiyan.
• Mazar-e Sharif. There are several daily and overnight buses. From Mazar-e Sharif you can visit nearby Balkh and go to Uzbekistan via Termez.
• Pakistan can be reached by taking a shared taxi (US$15, 2025) to the Torkham border crossing (traversing the famous Khyber Pass). From there take another shared taxi to Peshawar (Rs 2000, 2025). Note this route is closed as of 2026 due to the conflict between Afghanistan and Pakistan – instead you can catch a Kam Air flight to Islamabad for around US$200.