Mazar-e Sharif

Mazar-e Sharif (مزار شریف), or Mazar-i-Sharif, or just Mazar, is a city in Afghanistan and the capital of Balkh Province.

With a population of more than 485,000 (2020), Mazar-e Sharif is the 4th largest city in Afghanistan. It was founded in the 12th century after a local mullah dreamt of the secret site where Ali bin Talib, the Prophet's cousin and the fourth caliph of Islam, had been buried (outside of Afghanistan most Muslims believe that Ali is buried in Najaf, Iraq). A shrine, which was rebuilt as the Blue Mosque, was constructed on the site and the city of Mazar grew around it.

Historically this region was known as Bactria, its capital was Balkh and Mazar was a smaller town nearby. However Balkh was abandoned due to disease in the mid-19th century and Mazar assumed the role of capital of the region, a position it has maintained ever since. Being at a crossroads of trade, the Mazar region is more ethnically diverse than other areas of Afghanistan, and after Kabul it is considered the most open and liberal of all Afghan cities.

• 36.726767.18421 Kabul Bus Station (اده کابل). The journey from Kabul takes 8-10 hours (or as long as 12 hours), via the Salang Pass. The road has been improved and is possible with a normal car. Mercedes buses leave Kabul around 04:00 to 05:00, arriving in Mazar around 13:00 to 15:00, and cost 400 Afg. A nightly bus leaves at about 18:00, arrives about 8:00 and costs 750 Afs. A taxi to the center from the bus station is 50-100 Afs.  (updated Jul 2026)
• It is also possible from Sheberghan and Kunduz.
• The back road from Herat via Maimana is a very rough 3-day journey requiring a 4wd vehicle with back country preparation, and is no longer considered safe.

From Termez, Uzbekistan, take a Yandex to the border crossing on the Uzbek side (don't accidentally enter the free-trade zone on the east side of the highway unless you want to waste a lot of time), get stamped out after a thorough search by Uzbek customs, and then take a 5000 som taxi (2026) to the middle of the Friendship Bridge (or you can walk). Welcome to Afghanistan. Walk the rest of the way across the bridge, get stamped in by the Taliban, and then take a shared taxi to Mazar for AFN 150-300 or a private taxi for AFN 800-1000 (2026). Most nationalities can pick up an Afghanistan visa same-day at the Afghan Consulate in Termez.

• 36.70467.2132 Mazar-e Sharif International Airport (MZR  ^IATA) (9 km east of the city, a journey of 15 minutes by taxi).  
  • Kam Air flies from Kabul. They also fly intermittently from Istanbul, Turkey.
  • Ariana flies from Kabul.

• Taxis are plentiful and should cost AFN 50-100 (2026) around town. Negotiate a price before setting off.
• Zaranj (tuk-tuks/auto-rickshaws) are also plentiful and even cheaper.

As of 2026, visiting the Blue Mosque and travelling to any province in Afghanistan requires the purchase of permits. (You will be asked to purchase a permit for Balkh Province despite the fact that you are already there.) You can do this at the shady 36.7056267.102871 Tourism Office located behind the prominent Melli Bank building. To get there, go through the guard station to enter the grounds of the Melli Bank, then circle around the bank building counter-clockwise until you reach a garden at its rear; to your right, at the back of the garden will be the Tourism Office building.

Permits for each province cost AFN 1000 each. As part of the Taliban's effort to prevent officials from requesting bribes, you must leave the office with a slip of paper and pay the fee to one of the Melli Bank cashiers. Be very wary when paying the cashier, as they have a habit of "misplacing" the money you already payed them and demanding it again. After visiting various desks at the bank, you will then take a receipt back to the tourism office where, in a perfect world, they will fill out your permits (usually together on a single sheet of paper) and send you on your way.

Unfortunately, it is not a perfect world, and despite the Taliban's crackdown on corruption, as of July 2026, they are demanding bribes to receive your permits. The ruse is that they say you are "required to have a guide for Mazar-e Sharif" and only Mazar-e Sharif. You do not need a guide for Mazar-e Sharif. The bribe they demand may be as high as US$100. While under no circumstances should you give them US$100, this is a difficult bribe to avoid, as they hold all the power and may refuse to give you your permits. If you have your permits already in hand, you could try leaving the office (they will not be happy). You can also negotiate the bribe down, using your best negotiating skills. It is possible to shrink the bribe amount down to US$20, perhaps less.

You may not be able to avoid the bribe, but you can avoid the guide by saying you will come back to the office later for your "tour". (The guide will be utterly useless and will demand more money as a tip.) You can then leave and go visit the Blue Mosque without a guide.

In the way of sights Mazar has little to offer the visitor other than the Blue Mosque, although some of the modern monuments built atop traffic circles are worth a photo.

• 36.7090367.110941 Blue Mosque (Shrine of Hazrat Ali). The shrine marks the burial site of Ali bin Talib, the Prophet Mohammad's cousin and the fourth caliph of Islam. While entry to the shrine and mosque is prohibited, you may walk around the grounds and the surrounding park. At night the mosque is lit by coloured lights. Be wary of walking around the park at night due to the may homeless sleeping there. AFN 350 or US$5; entry requires a Balkh Province permit from the dreaded tourism office.  (updated Jul 2026)

• 36.66666766.9833332 Qala-i-Jangi. A fortress 30 minutes from Mazar-e Sharif that became infamous during the American-backed defeat of the Taliban by the Northern Alliance, when video footage of US and UK soldiers appeared on television sets around the world, firing into the rebelling Taliban prisoners and an American Taliban was taken prisoner - one of the few survivors. The uprising started with the death of an American CIA Agent. There is a plaque commemorating his death but nothing about the hundreds of Afghans that were killed in the hours afterwards. After the fall of Mazar-e Sharif to Warlord General Dostum and western advisors, truckloads of Taliban prisoners were herded into the fortress. The fortress is divided into two sections. The walls slope inwards from the outside and vertical from the inside, probably a strong reason why the Taliban were not able to scale the walls and escape after capturing weapons, and why the Afghan and western soldiers were able to trap them in their area by sealing the one exit/entry point and controlling the walls. To get in you will need to find a local to fast talk the guards. There is no entrance fee as the fortress is not a tourist attraction (entrance fees are rare in Afghanistan anyway). Walking the interior (if you get in) and perimeter is easy. There are fields near the main road giving some space between it and the fortress so photography is best from that side if you want to get wide-angle shots. The fortress is used by the new Afghan military and they are not too keen on having ordinary tourists turning up for a look around, although if you arrive with a local they can talk you in and the guards do warm up (and want photos sent back to them). UN and other NGO tourists have less hassle wanting to look around. A few rusting anti-air machine guns are next to the gate that divides the fortress's two areas.  (updated Oct 2020)
• 36.245768.02223 Takht-e Rustam (just off the Balkh road, between Mazar and Pol e Khomri). A 5th-century Buddhist stupa and Buddhist cave complex. Unlike most stupas, Takht-e Rustam is not built atop the ground, but dug out from the bedrock.  (updated Jul 2021)

The main bazaar flows west and northwest from the Blue Mosque. Hand-woven carpets are common in the bazaar, both Turkoman rugs and Afghan rugs that are typically cheaper and coarser.

• 36.707667.1081 Kefayat Market (enter the market at the north entrance and the currency exchange kiosks will be on your right). The best place to exchange money. US dollars preferred but they will also accept other currencies such as Uzbek Som. They're friendly and give great rates.  (updated Jul 2026)

• Afghanistan International Bank (AIB). Foreign bank cards should work at their ATMs. Emphasis on should. The fee is a whopping 7% of your withdrawal amount. (updated Jul 2026)
• Western Union. Has several branches in Mazar-e Sharif. 

Restaurant menus are usually only available in Dari. It is probably easiest to use AI to translate.

• Food stall abound on the streets surrounding the Blue Mosque. Bagels with green vegetables, tomato and french fries are especially good. Fruit shakes, soft drinks and tea are also available. Perhaps obviously, be very careful about what you choose to eat.
• 36.70667.11221 Mansoor Restaurant (رستورانت منصور). Delicious local and Western food with a Trumpian decor. Try the lamb rosh! AFN 300-500 mains.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 36.715767.08442 Kefyat Hotel. Has a large restaurant serving tasty meals  
• 36.706467.11423 Rayhan Restaurant (100 south from southeast corner of Blue Mosque square). 170 Afs for tasty breakfast.  (updated Feb 2026)

Freshly made fruit slushies. Banana shakes with almonds and dates are delicious, and the persimmon version looks equally alluring. Several stands are set up to the south of the park surrounding the Blue Mosque as well as at other spots around it.

All hotel prices are negotiable, and it pays to negotiate. If you can find a working number, the best method is usually to negotiate on WhatsApp as opposed to using booking websites.

As of 2026, there is no good quality budget accommodation. Local hotels offer multi-bed rooms from US$10-20 with a shared bathroom and toilet. Cheaper rooms have the worst toilet facilities.

• 36.710967.11311 Barat Hotel (east of the Blue Mosque), ☏ +93 70 502-235. A modern hotel with nice rooms and shared bathrooms. No English spoken. Singles from US $30.  
• 36.710667.1032 Rahat Hotel, Karte Mamorin, ☏ +93 797111100. Clean and comfy rooms. A/C. Hot shower. Restaurant. Friendly and helpful service. English spoken. Fills up, so best to reserve in advance. AFN2000 singles.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 36.707867.12613 Arsalan Hotel. Comfortable if a bit run down. Friendly staff. English spoken. Air conditioning. A 15-minute walk from the Blue Mosque so prices can be more affordable.  (updated Jul 2026)

Afghan Wireless and Roshan have offices on the same block where you can pick up a SIM card. The process it a bit involved but you'll get there. Bring your passport.

• 36.707867.104761 Afghan Wireless.  (updated Jul 2026)
• 36.7077567.104542 Roshan.  (updated Jul 2026)

Although Mazar is relatively peaceful and safe for travelers, things can change very quickly. Avoid walking at night if possible; always remain friendly and upbeat; and keep aware of your surroundings. Treat police with kindness and smiles even if they aren't showing you the same respect - unfriendly passport checks are not unheard of.

Shared taxis head to the Uzbekistan border (better rates when taking one from the bus terminal, 200-400 Afs (2026) depending on your negotiating skills; otherwise city rates apply) - taking 30 minutes on a good tarred road through the desert. To drive your own vehicle will require completing some paperwork with the Uzbek embassy in Kabul. On Uzbekistan side take a taxi to Termez where you can take a train (sleeper, goes overnight; takes 10 hours) or bus (faster) to Samarkand.

Balkh is nearby and has interesting sights. It was the capital of Bactria from several hundred BCE, and the region's most important city until it was devastated by an epidemic in the 19th century and Mazar became the leading city.