French
Deutsch
.jpg)
B. B. D. Bagh (বিবাদী বাগ Bibādī Bāg), short of Benoy-Badal-Dinesh Bagh (বিনয়-বদল-দীনেশ বাগ Binaẏ-Bādal-Dīneś Bāg), is the colonial-era precinct of Kolkata. Formerly known as Dalhousie Square or simply Dalhousie, the precinct takes a visitor back to the British Raj era with nostalgic overtones. Centred around a rectangular pond, Dalhousie was the core of the British rule till 1911, and many of the city's important buildings are here.
Understand
[edit | edit source]
History
[edit | edit source]When the British arrived in Bengal, they decided to settle there, because it was less crowded than other neighbourhoods. They built the old Fort William here (at the place where the General Post Office now stands). After their victory in the Battle of Plassey in 1757, they built the new fort in Gobindapur further south. However, Dalhousie Square remained at the heart of what was then the "White Town" of Kolkata. No Indian, rich or poor, dared to live in the area. They came for work during daytime and went back to "Black Town" (North Kolkata) before sunset.
Dalhousie Square was built surrounding a rectangular pond called Lal Dighi (লালদীঘি Lāldīghi). There are several theories on the name of this pond. According to one theory, the pond turned red or crimson colour due to Holi, and hence it was named "Lal Dighi" (literally "red pond"). Another theory says that the pond appeared red due to the reflection of the red colours of the old Fort William. With the Writers' Building occupying the north side of the pond and numerous commercial offices all around it, Dalhousie Square became the administrative and business centre of Calcutta. Even now, it stands out as a "period piece". After the independence of India, the square was named after three youngsters who dared to challenge British rule and died there in the 1930s.
Get in
[edit | edit source]
Map of BBD Bagh
By metro
[edit | edit source]- 1 Mahakaran 2 , Old Court House St (at the right side of Lal Dighi). The metro station is also served by bus (as B.B.D. Bagh
) and previously by tram.
By train
[edit | edit source]- 2 B.B.D. Bag Circular .
By ferry
[edit | edit source]
See
[edit | edit source]- 1 Lok Bhavan (লোকভবন Lokbhaban). 10AM-6PM (closed Sa, Su). The official residence of the Governor of West Bengal appointed by the President of India, formerly the Raj Bhavan (রাজভবন Rājbhaban). It was built in 1803 as the Government House (লাটভবন Lāṭbhaban), modelled on Lord Curzon’s home, Keddleston Hall in England. There are many rare works of art and other interesting items.
Around Lal Dighi
[edit | edit source].jpg)
- 2 General Post Office (GPO), Fairlie Pl. Notable for its imposing high domed roof (rising over 220 ft (67 m)) and tall Ionic-Corinthian pillars. It was built in 1868, at the site of the old Fort William, and has remained an important landmark of the city ever since.
- 3 Writers' Building (মহাকরণ Mahākaraṇ), 16, B. B. D. Bagh North. The landmark administrative building of Kolkata, designed by Thomas Lyon in 1777. It originally served as the principal administrative office for writers (junior clerks) of the British East India Company (EIC). The building became famous for its involvement with three youngsters–Benoy Basu, Badal Gupta and Dinesh Gupta–who dared to challenge the British rule in 1930. Since India's independence in 1947, it has housed the office of the Chief Minister, cabinet ministers, and other senior officials.
- 4 St Andrews Church, 15, BBD Bagh North.
- 5 Currency Building (National Gallery of Modern Art), 1, Surendra Mohan Ghosh Sarani. A three-storey Italianate structure, consisting of floors covered by marble and Chunar sandstone. During its use as a currency office, the central hall contained the exchange counters for banknotes, gold, silver, and small change. It was converted into a modern art gallery on 11 January 2020.
- 6 The RBI Museum, 8, Council House St, [email protected]. 10AM-5PM. One of the few museums in India that covers the evolution of money in the country, from the earliest barter system and the use of cowries to paper money, coins, stock markets and modern-day electronic transactions. It is hosted in the old building of the Reserve Bank of India. Free.
- 7 Royal Insurance Building (the one beside the GPO).
High Court area
[edit | edit source]
- 8 Calcutta High Court (কলকাতা হাইকোর্ট Kalkātā Hāikorṭ), Esplanade Row W (between the Town Hall and the Strand), ☏ +91 33 2254-8000, fax: +91 33 2248-7835, [email protected]. The oldest high court in India, and a scene of legendary legal battles even today. It was established as the High Court of Judicature at Fort William in 1862. The building was built in the Gothic architectural style, and was exactly copied from the Staadhans (Cloth Hall) in Ypres, Belgium.
- 9 Assembly House (বিধানসভা ভবন Bidhānsabha Bhaban), Esplanade Row W. The building houses the West Bengal Legislative Assembly.
- 10 Babughat (বাবুঘাট Bābughāṭ) (bus: Babughat ; ferry: Chandpal ; suburban: Edengarden Circular ). The second-oldest surviving ghat in Kolkata, originally named "Baboo Raj Chandra Ghat" after the husband of Rashmoni Dasi, better known as Rani Rashmoni. She built it in 1830 in memory of her late husband. The landing berth of the ghat has a tall colonial structure, with a fine Doric style pavilion and tall columns. Sadly, thanks to the day bustle for bathing, rituals and leisure, the pavilion today is completely encroached by vendors and priests. The section of Babughat originally meant for women's bathing has turned into a garbage point. The ghat is also used for immersing idols, as well as Chhath. Furthermore, Babughat is a major transport hub of the city, being served by bus, ferry and local train.
- 11 Kolkata Town Hall, 4, Esplanade Row W. Built in 1813, in the Doric style of architecture, it is now the City Magistrate’s Office. It hosts a museum and a library. The museum depicts the history of Kolkata and adjacent areas. The library contains the collection of rare books and journals on Kolkata, purchased from Keralite P. T. Nair, who once fell in love of the metropolis so much that he spent most of his life there, then he returned to Kerala.
- 12 Samriddhi Bhavan, Strand Rd. Regional headquarters of State Bank of India (SBI), the oldest bank of India. It was founded on 2 June 1806 as the Bank of Calcutta, mainly to fund General Wellesley's wars against Tipu Sultan and the Marathas. The bank was renamed to Bank of Bengal in 1809, then Imperial Bank of India in 1921 and then State Bank of India in 1955. The building contains State Bank Archives and Museum, an initiative to document and preserve the history of banking in India. The museum contains original documents, memorabilia, statues, artefacts, dioramas and murals on public display. It also provides a peek into the personal finances of influential Bengali Renaissance figures such as Rabindranath Tagore, Ishwar Chandra Vidyasagar and Annie Besant.
- 13 AG Bengal.
Museums
[edit | edit source]
- 14 GPO Museum. 10AM-4PM (closed S). A philatelic museum beside the GPO, housed in the ground floor of a red building. It is dedicated to the history of postal services and the contributions of runners, who delivered mail from one place to another. The museum has a collection of various knives that the runners carried for self-defence. It also has a wide collection of stamps and letters, along with a signature of Rabindranath Tagore on his Santiniketan passbook. There are also signatures of CV Raman and portraits of many other individuals who once worked for the Indian postal service. Free.
- 15 Kolkata Port Trust Maritime and Heritage Museum, GF, 6, Fairlie Warehouse, Strand Rd (local: B.B.D Bag Circular ). M–F 10:00AM–4:30PM. A museum showcasing the heritage of the Port of Kolkata, with some wonderful models of ships once used by the port..
- 16 Metcalfe Hall, 12, Strand Rd. 10AM-6PM (closed M). A neoclassical heritage building, with its ground floor housing the Asiatic Society's rare foreign journals and manuscripts section, while the first floor houses offices, exhibition galleries, and a sales counter of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). It preserves the rich legacy of music, painting, theatre, and cinema of Bengal. There are photos and hand-drawn posters of old Calcutta on the walls along the stairs. The exhibition gallery features old images of docks, College Street, Durga idols, etc. It also has dedicated corners for old Bengali films, theatres, and instruments. Online booking: ₹20.
Places of worship
[edit | edit source]- 17 Beth-El Synagogue (বেথ এল সিনাগগ).
- 18 St John's Church and Compound, 2/1 Council House St, ☏ +91 33 22436098, [email protected]. Built in 1787, St John's Church is the third-oldest church in Kolkata and the oldest Anglican Church in the city. Its compound contains several graves including that of Job Charnock.
Do
[edit | edit source]
- 1 Kolkata Heritage River Cruise, Millennium Park (suburban: B.B.D. Bag Circular ). M-F: 6PM; Sa-Su: 5PM and 6:45PM. A government-run cruise along the Hooghly River, covering the age-old heritage of Kolkata along the river, covering some of the important historic sites of the city for one and a half hours. The ride starts from the Millennium Park Jetty, and then moves northward till Ahiritola, covering the east bank of the river. After that, it takes a u-turn to cover the west bank, including the heritage sites of Howrah before returning to the beginning spot. The upper deck hosts a live music band with old Bengali songs, Rabindra Sangeet and others. The café in the cruise sells light refreshments like tea, coffee, chips, biscuits, cakes and some snacks. ₹169 per head. Pay at ticket counter two hours in advance.
- 2 Millennium Park, Strand Rd (suburban: B.B.D. Bag Circular ). A beautiful park at the riverfront, inaugurated on 26 December 1999 and opened to the general public on the 1 January 2000. Developed by the Kolkata Metropolitan Development Authority (KMDA), the park is known for scenic views of the Hooghly River, with several ferries and boats roaming around the river.
- 3 Netaji Indoor Stadium (suburban: Edengarden Circular ). Inaugurated in 1975, it can accommodate 12,000 people. The Netaji Indoor Stadium hosts a wide range of activities, from sporting events to cultural programmes. It is a venue for both national and international trade fairs.
Eat
[edit | edit source]- Siuli, The Parcel Cafe, GPO, Fairlie Pl. 9AM-9PM (closed Su). The first café inside a post office in India, offering a blend of café and postal service, although it's more about its vintage postal vibe than a big meal. It also has a gift shop and takeaway service. ₹150 (cash-only).
Drink
[edit | edit source]- 1 The Nautilus (at the middle of the Hooghly River, accessible on a feeder boat from Fairlie ). Tu-Th noon-midnight, F-Su noon-1:30AM. A two-tier floating restaurant and nightclub on the Hooghly River. The lower deck hosts a lively nightclub after sunset, and is open to people above 21. Whereas the upper deck offers multi-cuisine dining with craft cocktails and global fare, and is open to all. Overall, the vessel provides a mix of food, music, river views and hangout. ₹2,000.
Sleep
[edit | edit source]Since B. B. D. Bagh is mostly an administrative and business district, it is quite impossible to find accommodations within the district. However, the nearby districts provide several options.
- 1 The LaLiT Great Eastern, ☏ +91 33 4444-7777. Built in 1841, the Great Eastern Hotel is one of the oldest hotels in Kolkata. The hotel has housed many famous personalities including Nikita Khrushchev and Nikolai Bulganin, Elizabeth II, Mark Twain, Dave Brubeck and possibly Ho Chi Minh.
- 2 Polo Floatel, 10, Strand Rd, ☏ +91 33 2213-7779.
Connect
[edit | edit source]Cope
[edit | edit source]Police stations
[edit | edit source]- 1 Kolkata Police Headquarters, Lal Bazar, ☏ +91 33 2214-3024, +91 33 2214-3230, +91 33 2214-1310.