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Rote (or Roti) is an island in Nusa Tenggara, Indonesia. It is an off-the-beaten-path destination mainly popular with Australian surfers for its world-class surf breaks. But there's no reason Rote should be restricted to surfers (nor Australians): there is plenty to see and do for the active traveller, and no shortage of secluded beaches and sleepy villages for those seeking peace and tranquillity. You just have to figure out how to get there.
Cities
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- 1 Ba'a (pronounced bah-AH) – the largest town on the island
- 2 Nembrala (also spelled Nemberala) – a village on the west coast, a popular surfing spot, and the primary tourist destination on the island
- 3 Papela – a mostly-Muslim fishing town on the east coast
Other destinations
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- 1 Bo'a – a beach village just south of Nembrala with upmarket resorts
- 2 Oeseli – a village close to Oeseli Beach, a popular boat anchorage, and the gorgeous Lake Nirvana
- 3 Nuse Island (Pulau Nuse) – a small island fringed by white sand beaches and covered in flower fields
Understand
[edit | edit source]History
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Before Europeans arrived, Rote was divided into a patchwork of small kingdoms or domains, each with its own rulers and local identity. The island remains surprisingly diverse for its size: several closely related languages are spoken here, including Bilba, Dengka, Lole, Ringgou, Dela-Oenale, Termanu and Tii. Life was shaped by Rote's dry climate, and especially by the lontar palm, which supplied food, drink, sugar, building materials and a source of income alongside fishing, farming and jewellery-making.
The Portuguese arrived in the 16th century. According to local legend, Rote got its name when a lost Portuguese sailor asked a farmer where he was. Unable to understand the question, the farmer assumed he was being asked his name and replied, "Rote". The Dutch later became the dominant power in the region, and Christianity spread in Rote under their influence. Today, about 80% of the population is Christian.
Australian surfers began making their way to Nembrala in the 1980s, and word spread about long, powerful reef breaks off the island's west coast. Surf camps and small resorts followed, with Nembrala becoming Rote's main tourist centre. Although a few resorts have popped up, tourism is still heavily concentrated around the surf scene. Much of the island still feels rural and lightly visited, with lontar palms, limestone hills, fishing villages and long stretches of beach.
Along with nearby small islands, such as Nuse Island and Ndao Island, Rote forms the Rote Ndao Regency, which in 2022 was estimated to have a population of nearly 150,000.
Climate
[edit | edit source]Rote has a tropical savanna climate with dry months for much of the year due to dry winds that blow from mainland Australia. Between 80% and 95% of all rain falls between November and March, while little rain falls between July and October. During the dry season, many streams and rivers run dry and local inhabitants must rely only on wells for their water supplies.
Get in
[edit | edit source]Rote is not especially easy to reach. This keeps tourism to a minimum. Almost all routes to the island go through Kupang, West Timor, other than the occasional large PELNI ferry from the larger islands (although these do stop at Kupang as well) and flights from the small island of Savu (where you almost certainly will not be).
A common itinerary is to fly to Kupang, stay in a hotel overnight, and then catch the fast ferry from Kupang's Port Tenau early the next morning. Flights between Kupang and Rote are expensive relative to their short distance. During the windy months of July and August, ferry services can experience a lot of disruptions, so it may be worth booking a flight during these months unless you're particularly flexible and happy to spend some time in Kupang.
If you're coming to Rote from overseas, fly to Bali first and then fly to Kupang. If you fly with Batik Air or a Lion Air-affiliated airline, you should be able to do this on a single ticket. Then follow the itinerary above.
By plane
[edit | edit source]The flight from Kupang takes 20-30 minutes.
- 1 David Constantijn Saudale Airport (RTI IATA).
- Wings Air (part of the Lion Air Group) flies from Kupang on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays.
- Susi Air flies from Kupang on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, and from Savu on Mondays.
A taxi from the airport to Nembrala costs around Rp350,000-400,000 as of 2026. It takes about an hour – longer than the flight!
By ferry
[edit | edit source]There are three ports on the island, although only two are regularly used by passenger services.
- 2 Port of Ba'a (Pelabuhan Ba'a). The Bahari Express fast ferry (feri cepat) from Kupang arrives here. The journey takes 2-3 hours total and costs Rp174,000 for economy class. The ferry from Kupang has a confusing schedule but typically leaves each day between 07:00 and 09:00, depending on the weather and the number of bookings. As of September 2026, it seems to be leaving Kupang around 07:00. (If you miss the 07:00 ferry, try to make it to Port Bolok in Kupang to catch the 09:00 slow ferry.) Private taxis from Ba'a to Nembrala cost Rp400,000; it should be possible to arrange a shared taxi with your hotel for Rp150,000-200,000, or you can try to negotiate with a taxi driver for a seat once you arrive. The drive to Nembrala takes about 45 minutes to an hour.
- 3 Pantai Baru Port (Pelabuhan Pantai Baru). The ASDP/Ferizy slow ferry (feri lambat) from Kupang arrives here. The journey takes 4-5 hours and costs Rp70,000 for economy class. There are usually two slow ferry journeys from Kupang a day: the first at 09:00 and the second at 13:00, although the second one may or may not depart. Taxis from Pantai Baru to Nembrala cost Rp600,000-700,000 and take an additional 1.5-2 hours.
- 4 Port of Papela (Pelabuhan Papela). An alternative port on the far east of the island used by the Bahari Express fast ferry when weather conditions are poor (such as in January 2026).
Getting tickets for the ferries to Rote in Kupang is confusing. You may be advised to book online or with an app – assuming you're foreign, don't bother with this. Instead, get to the correct port an hour before the ferry's departure (as of September 2026, that's 06:00 for the fast ferry and 08:00 for the slow ferry). For the fast ferry at Port Tenau, look for the ticket window at the front of the terminal building and buy your ticket there. (They tried to make everyone buy online but relented after a flood of complaints.) For the slow ferry at Port Bolok, ignore the main ticket window in the terminal building, as they will demand you at least register your details online, and if you don't know Indonesian then this will be difficult. Instead, look like a tourist (i.e. confused) and start asking around for help in English. Someone will approach you and offer to buy your ticket on their phone. Once that's done, tip them Rp10,000-20,000 for the service. At Bolok, this process has been confusing enough that they actually set up a small tent with semi-official staff who will buy people's tickets using their phones, but given that they usually don't speak English, you're better off going with the English-speaking unofficial helpers.
By sailboat
[edit | edit source]If arriving from outside of Indonesia, immigration and customs formalities must be completed in Kupang, West Timor, before heading to Rote. Beware of the notoriously strong currents of the Puku Afu Strait (Selat Puku Afu) between Rote and Timor – this is one of the most dangerous stretches of water in the world!
Get around
[edit | edit source]The short answer: rent a scooter. Rote has almost no public transport and taxis and even ojeks (motorcycle taxis) are hard to come by on the street. If you can't ride a scooter, then Rote, with its long quiet highways, is a fantastic place to learn.
By taxi
[edit | edit source]Taxis generally require that you pre-arrange pickup. When you find a taxi driver you trust (such as the one who took you to your accommodation when you first arrived), save their WhatsApp number in your phone in case you need a car to go somewhere. You can also always have your hotel arrange car transport for you.
Taxis on Rote are expensive compared to much of the rest of Indonesia. As of 2026, there are no ride-hailing services available on the island.
By motorbike
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Your hotel will be able to arrange motorcycle or scooter rental. Prices tend to be reasonable on Rote, even more reasonable than the rest of Indonesia in a lot of cases. Be aware that off the main highways, roads on Rote tend to be in horrific condition, their only saving grace being that they lack the steep gradients found on some other Indonesian islands.
Neither locals nor tourists tend to wear helmets within the tourist triangle between Nembrala, Bo'a and Oeseli. If travelling towards Ba'a and beyond, you should don a helmet, if not for your own safety then because the police will be motivated to stop you.
As of September 2026, a bottle of petrol costs Rp20,000-25,000. If you'll be riding around a lot over an extended period of time, it pays to find the cheaper sellers and fill up with them. Sometimes even sellers within sight of one another can sell fuel at different prices!
By bicycle
[edit | edit source]Many hotels offer bicycles for rent, which is a great way to get around Nembrala given that it is oriented along one long paved road. You should be able to rent a mountain bike to explore some of the backcountry tracks, presuming you want to brave the heat.
On foot
[edit | edit source]Rote is hot and its towns and villages tend to stretch out along a single main road, making walking undesirable for anything but short distances.
See
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Keep in mind that, due to the state of the roads or the need to organise boats, etc., most of these attractions will take significant time to reach. It will be difficult to visit more than one or two in a day.
- 1 Lake Nirvana (Telaga Nirwana, locally known as Dano Dale) (go to Oeseli beach to rent a kayak or charter a boat). Only accessible at high tide. A stunning turquoise lagoon connected to the ocean by a 300-metre-long channel. It is filled with starfish and lovely to swim in. You can rent a kayak to get there, or you charter a small boat. Kayak rental about costs Rp50,000 per person for 1/2 a day. Boat charters are Rp100,000-300,000 depending on your negotiating skills.
- 2 Thousand Mouths (Mulut Seribu) (arrange a boat tour from Mulut Seribu Beach). Take a boat tour through the forested islets and rock formations of the Thousand Mouths area, drifting over clear turquoise and emerald-green waters. Tours range anywhere from Rp100,000 for a simple charter to Rp750,000.
- 3 Termanu Rock (Batu Termanu). A beautiful rock formation and a great place to watch the sunset. There are two approaches, the beach route and the hill route. The beach route is only accessible at low tide.
- 4 Mangrove Beach. A unique and gorgeous mangrove where lush green trees grow out of brilliant turquoise water.
- 5 Mando'o Hill (Bukit Mando'o or Bukit Tangga 300). Nearly 500 stairs up to the top of a hill with fantastic views over the island. (It used to have only 300 stairs and was called Bukit Tangga 300 meaning "300-stair hill"; the name has stuck.) It is difficult to get to by road and the stairs are in poor condition... be careful! Rp3000 per person entrance fee, Rp1000 parking fee.
- 6 Widow's Field (Padang Janda) (take a boat to Nuse Island from Pantai Tongga). A splendid field of purple globe amaranth flowers (Gomphrena globosa) on Nuse Island. Peak flower season is March through June.
- 7 Papela Harbour. Filled with colourful fishing boats that make for a picturesque scene. Many are still built without motors because the 1974 MOU Box agreement with Australia preserves fishing rights for Indonesian fishers using traditional methods within Australia's Exclusive Economic Zone.
- 8 The southernmost point of Asia (charter a boat to Ndana Island, then walk south). There's little to see here, other than a ruined lighthouse and a concrete marker. But, hey, you'll have been to the southernmost point of Asia!
Do
[edit | edit source]Beaches
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All the beaches on the west coast (including Nembrala and Bo'a) are great sunset-watching spots.
- 1 Nembrala Beach. The famous surf beach, although not the best for swimming, as it is only possible at high tide and tends to have a lot of seaweed.
- 2 Bo'a Beach (7km south of Nembrala; the beach can be accessed by a road leading to its northern edge, as the rest of the access roads are blocked by the NIHI Resort). A beautiful white sand beach and a great surf spot. Swimming possible, even at low tide.
- 3 Loedi Beach. A good beach for swimming and snorkeling although it has a bit of a rubbish problem on shore.
- 4 Pantai Batu Pintu. A visually stunning beach and rock arch formation. It'll likely be just you and the horses set against the crystal clear water. You can climb up around the arch to the west and view Ndana Island and the southernmost point of Asia. Unfortunately quite a bit of plastic rubbish has washed up on shore, particularly on its western end.
- 5 Oeseli Beach. Not much of a sandy beach but a good place to rent kayaks to paddle around the serene turquoise waters or charter a boat to Lake Nirvana.
- 6 Pantai Tongga. A white sand beach on the northwest corner of Rote, most notable as the launching point for boats to Nuse Island.
- 7 Pantai Sai Oebole. A tranquil beach with soft white sand on the north coast of the island.
- 8 Inaoe Beach (Tolanamon Beach, Pantai Perawan). A rocky coastal area with secluded beaches squeezed in between the cliffs.
- 9 Pantai Oesosole. A pristine beach with mushroom-like rock formations sticking out of the turquoise waters. Absolutely no food or services.
Surfing
[edit | edit source]Rote offers world-class surfing. The main wave at Nembrala Beach, 10 T-Land, has several sections, which can link up on bigger days.
- Type of wave: coral reef
- Length: usually 200-300m, but can get over 500m on really big days
- Size: 2 to 15 feet+ (~4 to 30 feet+ faces)
- Best tide: low. There is a very large tidal range of about 6m+. The wave breaks on all tides, but is generally better on lower tides.
- Dangers: coral reef bottom, inexperienced surfers, hold-downs in big swells, and very remote location. Sunburn and long paddles. The wave is more than a kilometre offshore, which is a very long paddle at high tide without a boat. Sea urchins on the bottom.
- Quality: it's not a true barrelling, Indonesian-style wave, in comparison to other, more famous waves in Indonesia. Usually a long wall, but can barrel on rarer occasions, especially on lower tides.
The wave tends to be bigger and better when the swell is more west, and suffers from lengthy flat spells. It can hold virtually any size swell, the main problem being the very strong winds in season, which make getting into bigger waves more difficult (over 25 knots at times). The wave is unusual in that it often gets bigger further down the wave, due to focusing from refraction.
There are numerous other waves in the area, of low to excellent quality, although access is sometimes only by boat, and some of these won't work at different times of the very large tidal range of more than 6m. These include Bo'a, Sucky Mamas, Dana, Do'a, the Bommie, and several other offshore island waves, as well as waves further around to the east of the island sometimes without a name, although these need very large swells.
For those learning to surf there is a surfing school:
Scuba diving
[edit | edit source]Although far more famous as a surf island, Rote is surrounded by coral reefs and has numerous dive sites.
- 12 Rote Dive Adventures (Nembrala), ☏ +62 813 53343993.
- 13 Anugerah Surf and Dive Resort (Nembrala), ☏ +62 811 3823441.
Kayaking
[edit | edit source]You can rent kayaks at Oeseli Beach to explore the bay and Lake Nirvana. Most hotels there will have them, or just ask around. A single-person kayak will cost between Rp100,000 and Rp300,000 for a day (2026), depending on who you ask.
Buy
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Money
[edit | edit source]To get cash, look for BNI ATMs. Ignore Bank NTT ATMs – they don't work with foreign cards. The 1 BNI ATM on the main road in Nembrala is where most tourists get their cash, but it often runs out, so if you find that it's working pull as much out as you think you'll need in anticipation of it being out of cash for several days. If you're in desperate need of cash, you'll need to trek to the 2 Melati Mart, pay a 5% commission, and then wait 1-2 days to receive it.
Supermarkets
[edit | edit source]There are no true supermarkets on the island. There is nothing even close to a supermarket in Nembrala. Instead you'll have to trek to Ba'a.
- 3 Smart Minimarket (Ba'a). The largest store on the island with most daily necessities.
Traditional markets
[edit | edit source]- 4 Pasar Delha (just north of Nembrala). Tuesdays only, 06:00-10:00. The market closest to Nembrala. Produce, 2nd-hand clothing, etc.
- 5 Pasar Ba'a (Ba'a). Tuesdays only, 06:00-10:00. The largest market on the island. Not tourist-oriented at all. Excellent prices compared to Nembrala.
- 6 Pasar Metina (Ba'a). Daily. The only market open daily on the island.
Handicrafts and fabrics
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Leaves from the lontar palm are used to craft sasando, a traditional music string instrument native to Rote. A stringed bamboo tube is surrounded by a bag-like fan of dried lontar leaves, which serves as the resonator of the instrument. Miniature sasando instruments are available as souvenirs.
Handwoven ikat fabrics, often with floral patterns, are mainly sold in Nembrala. The traditional garment is the kain, a 2.5-metre-long cloth that is wrapped around the hips and reaches to the knees or ankles.
Eat
[edit | edit source]It can be a struggle to find restaurants open on Sunday, particularly on Sunday morning.
Budget
[edit | edit source]- 1 Warung Mbak Jawa (Nembrala). A nice warung that feels somewhat upmarket with its pleasant seating area, though it retains warung prices. Meals from Rp25,000, drinks from Rp10,000.
- 2 Warung Betas (Nembrala). Small warung selling chicken and meatball noodle soups.
- 3 Cafe 777 (Ba'a). Indonesian and western food. Good place for sunset.
- 4 Rumah Makan Solo (Ba'a). Javanese cuisine.
Mid-range
[edit | edit source]- 5 Fishbones (Nembrala). Indonesian food, burgers and pizza. Mains from Rp50,000.
- 6 The Pasar (Nembrala). Good breakfast spot and bakery. Mains from Rp80,000.
- 7 Luwabafa The Cave (Nembrala). Excellent seafood. Try the grilled fish with mango salsa.
- 8 Indika (Nembrala). Healthy food restaurant. Good coffee. Mains from Rp75,000.
Splurge
[edit | edit source]- 9 81 Palms Restaurant (Nembrala). Restaurant at the 81Palms resort with a Spanish-inspired menu and run by a Michelin-rated chef.
- 10 Seed Restaurant (Nembrala). At the Seed Resort. Great Thai food. Mains from Rp100,000.
- 11 Blu Oceano Restaurant (Nembrala). Italian restaurant with Italian chef. Excellent pizza.
- 12 Narrow Resto (Nembrala). At the Casa Narrow Villa. Indonesian and western food.
Drink
[edit | edit source]As Rote is a majority-Christian island, and due to Nembrala's tourist-orientation, it's quite common to find alcohol on restaurant menus. It is far from party-central, however. Expect a few laid-back beachfront resto-bars and drinks provided by your hotel. The restaurant at the 81 Palms resort probably has the best cocktails on the island.
- 1 Indi Bar (Nembrala). Beachfront. Friendly service.
- 2 Boatman Bar (Nembrala). No frills beach bar. Cold beer and sunsets.
- 3 Shipwrecks (Nembrala). Great view. Cold beer. Questionable service.
You can find good coffee at Indika and The Pasar restaurants.
Sleep
[edit | edit source]Accommodation on Rote is expensive for Indonesia and particularly poor value at the budget end. Most accommodation is in the Nembrala-Bo'a-Oeseli triangle, although there are a few hotels and guesthouses in Ba'a. The high season is the dry season from May to October, and the really high season is June through August. Don't expect long-term-stay discounts from most hotels outside of the low season.
The hotels near the port in Ba'a are not great. If you must stay in Ba'a, Homestay JavaRote (a bit away from the port) is likely your best option.
Budget
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There are cheaper stays than these on the island, but expect very low standards of accommodation.
- 1 Homestay JavaRote (Ba'a), ☏ +62 813 53659449. Probably the best you're going to get in Ba'a. A/C. Hot water. Mini-fridge. Shuttle service. Good breakfast. A bit remote. Rp300,000 singles w/o breakfast, Rp350,000 singles w/ breakfast.
- 2 Talenta Mas Homestay (Nembrala), ☏ +62 812 36139224. Extremely basic. Squat toilet, cold open-pipe shower. Decent breakfast included. Marginal wifi, marginal A/C. Probably the cheapest serviceable accommodation in Nembrala. Rp350,000 A/C rooms, Rp300,000 non-A/C.
- 3 CocoKabanas (Nembrala), ☏ +62 812 81011094. Charming and artsy homestay. No A/C, only fan rooms. No breakfast. Rp350,000 doubles.
- 4 Sunset Bungalows (Nembrala). Newly renovated. Spacious rooms with A/C. No breakfast. Garden. Rp400,000 doubles.
- 5 Balo Surf House (Nembrala), ☏ +62 813 37337649. Rooms have A/C and are cleaned every day. Perhaps the best wifi on the island (although far from perfect). The private bathroom is outdoors. Meagre breakfast included. Rp500,000 doubles.
- 6 Oemau Bungalow (Bo'a), ☏ +62 851 34418577. Rooms have A/C and include a kitchenette. Breakfast included. Rp600,000.
Mid-range
[edit | edit source]- 7 Blu Oceano (Nembrala), ☏ +62 822 37711555. Rooms with A/C and terrace. Lush garden. Excellent restaurant but simple breakfast. Rp750,000 doubles.
- 8 Tepi Oeseli (Oeseli Beach). Waterfront bungalows at Oeseli Beach. Good for activities like Kayaking. Breakfast included. Rp900,000.
- 9 Boa Hill Surf House (Bo'a). On a hill above Bo'a Beach. Prime sunset location. Rooms with A/C. Some rooms have kitchen facilities. Includes breakfast. From Rp1,090,000.
- 10 Nemberala Beach Resort (Nembrala). One of the less expensive full service resorts on Rote. Good family resort. Good food (buffet). From Rp1,090,000.
- 11 Loedi Bungalows (Bo'a), ☏ +62 852 53355081. Beachfront rooms with A/C and kitchenette. Swimming pool. Simple breakfast included. Rp1,190,000 doubles.
- 12 Belar Reef Bungalows (Nembrala), ☏ +62 821 46029516. Good for families. Swimming pool. Full-service bar. Breakfast included. Rp1,200,000 doubles.
- 13 Utopia Rote Lodge (Nembrala), ☏ +62 812 37126174. EcoLodge set in the forest east of Nembrala. Excellent views. Infinity pool, restaurant, bar and outdoor fireplace. From Rp1,500,000.
- 14 Anugerah Surf and Dive Resort (Nembrala). Surf resort that does diving expeditions as well. Open hut design. Swimming pool, spa, restaurant, bar. A bit dilapidated. Rp2,000,000 doubles w/ breakfast.
- 15 Casa Narrow Villa (Nembrala), ☏ +62 812 4655204. Beautiful rooms with modern furniture. Excellent restaurant and great breakfast. Good value. From Rp1,150,000 twin, Rp2,090,000 suite.
- 16 T-Land Resort (Nembrala), ☏ +62 812 91551320. Surf resort catering to families. Swimming pool. Restaurant with full-service bar. US$99 per adult for double room only, US$160 for non-surf resort package, US$175 for surfing resort package (child rates are discounted).
- 17 Keong Villas (Nembrala), ☏ +62 813 53177264. Large family lofts and villas. All rooms have A/C and full kitchens. Breakfast included. Decent wifi for Rote. Rp2,500,000 lofts, Rp3,000,000 villas.
Splurge
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- 18 Eliana Resort & Spa (Bo'a), ☏ +62 811 28998899. Large, elegantly decorated family rooms with terraces overlooking the sea or the gardens. Swimming pool, spa facilities, restaurant, bar. Everything quite pricey. From Rp3,190,000.
- 19 Seed Resort (Nembrala), ☏ +62 811 25233456. Thatched-roof bungalows each with an outdoor seating terrace. Swimming pool. Excellent food. From Rp3,500,000.
- 20 81 Palms Resort (Nembrala), ☏ +62 822 37464840. Beachfront resort offering family rooms. Infinity pool. Garden. Superb restaurant and bar. From Rp3,800,000.
- 21 Bo'a Vida (Bo'a), ☏ +62 823 10226267. Secluded clifftop resort above Bo'a Beach. Incredible view. From Rp4,000,000.
- 22 Manduna Resort (Nembrala), ☏ +65 9125 2707. Beachfront resort to the south of Nembrala. Large rooms with beautiful views. From Rp4,800,000.
- 23 NIHI Rote (Bo'a), ☏ +62 361 757149. New five-star resort on Bo'a Beach. Despised by surfers as the resort has attempted to privatise and cordon off the beach. Rp14,000,000 and up.
Stay safe
[edit | edit source]There is virtually no crime on Rote. Your only real risk is from saltwater crocodiles, but even those are quite rare compared to islands such as Timor.
Connect
[edit | edit source]Wifi is available on Rote, but it is about as good as you might expect and very much depends on where you stay. Generally, it's serviceable before 17:00 and then pretty much useless after 17:00.
Telkomsel provides good mobile phone coverage on the island, but the signal isn't particularly strong. For example, you might lose reception upon entering your hotel room.
Rote Guide has a good guide on staying connected while on Rote.